Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: earemike on June 01, 2015, 10:36:37 PM
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Search is down for now so I'm running by guesswork, hence this post.
I managed to fit the rear swingarm back into the frame but it was a right bastard! It's too late for this time but if you've got any hints/tips for next time they'd be appreciated. I'm hoping to soak the uni joint regularly but if I have to disassemble the bike to do it... At least having the battery tray out I could see everything easily.
I've assembled the side stand and rear end etc but have not torqued anything down yet.
Somewhere I remember being told to use the swingarm pins to centre the swingarm (by measuring the protruding thread), tightening the pins then backing off 1/4 of a turn before locking the pins with the caps. Does this sound about right or am I way off (mixed up ::))?.
After I'm guessing I torque the footrests and then the shocks.
As usual any guidance is appreciated,
Mike
PS the old girl is starting to look like a motorcycle again!
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I managed to fit the rear swingarm back into the frame but it was a right bastard! It's too late for this time but if you've got any hints/tips for next time they'd be appreciated.
the rear of swingarm must be way low so you bring it up into the frame from about an 8 oclock angle.
I'm hoping to soak the uni joint regularly no one else does that so, why?
I've assembled the side stand and rear end etc but have not torqued anything down yet.
Somewhere I remember being told to use the swingarm pins to centre the swingarm (by measuring the protruding thread), tightening the pins then backing off 1/4 of a turn before locking the pins with the caps. Does this sound about right YES
After I'm guessing I torque the footrests and then the shocks. shocks don't take much torq
As usual any guidance is appreciated,
Mike
PS the old girl is starting to look like a motorcycle again!
post pics!
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Thanks foto,
I appreciate you confirming the 1/4 turn rule of thumb ;-T. 8 o'clock, I'll make note of that for next time.
As for soaking the uni joint regularly that depends on your definition of regular! If soaking the uni joint every tyre change or two will massively extend its life and makes me check it's in good condition then I'm interested. Of course for my intended use that's less than once per year.
Crappy iPhone photos included, when she's together I'll try and get some decent shots.
Before insertion
(https://guzzimike2.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/01-beforeswingarminstall.jpg)
New (NOS) Shocks courtesy of Harper's, when I asked about suitability I was told "They'll fit". [I think these will do fine for the intended purpose.]
(https://guzzimike2.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/02-newbitubos.jpg)
View from the left
(https://guzzimike2.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/03-leftshock.jpg)
View from the right
(https://guzzimike2.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/04-rightshock.jpg)
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The ujoint crosses are supposed to be sealed. there's nothing you can soak them in that won't wash out the lube that's supposed to be in there. Don't soak it.
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When installing a swing arm, my preferred method is, with no rear drive or shocks. I install the rear motor/trans bolt but, I don't tighten it. Run the pivot bolts in equal distance, you can count exposed threads. On the Sport, you only have that screw driver slot so, it's hard to get any real leverage on it. Tighten the screws as best you can there usually are between 5 and 7 exposed threads. Now, move the swing arm up and down, it should move smoothly without binding, and should not hold itself up. The next thing I do is tighten the rear motor mount bolt and the recheck your swing arm movement, it will be a little tighter but, should still move smoothly and not bind.
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It's very important to eliminate all play in the swing arm bearings, without making them so tight that you can feel excessive friction. Swing arm play is a contributing factor to tank slappers!
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if you ever want to remove the swingarm,
removing the footrest hangers before fitting the swingarm makes life a lot easier.
the swingarm gets stuck on the nuts securing the footrest hangers.
soaking the UJ is a good idea , a friend has two UJ's for his guzzi , and stores one in a jar of gear oil.
every tire change he swaps the UJ.
V7sports tend to be hard on UJ"s due to the tall gearing and the lack of cush drive in the rear wheel.
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if you ever want to remove the swingarm,
removing the footrest hangers before fitting the swingarm makes life a lot easier.
the swingarm gets stuck on the nuts securing the footrest hangers.
soaking the UJ is a good idea , a friend has two UJ's for his guzzi , and stores one in a jar of gear oil.
every tire change he swaps the UJ.
V7sports tend to be hard on UJ"s due to the tall gearing and the lack of cush drive in the rear wheel.
Thanks huub, I didn't see how I could do it with the footrests fitted but perhaps that's my poor technique!
Great to know someone out there is soaking UJ's (how many km's does he get?). The old sport also has a smaller UJ so that might detract from its useful life.
Of course rodekyll makes a good point regarding the original grease (thanks for pointing this out).
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When installing a swing arm, my preferred method is, with no rear drive or shocks. I install the rear motor/trans bolt but, I don't tighten it. Run the pivot bolts in equal distance, you can count exposed threads. On the Sport, you only have that screw driver slot so, it's hard to get any real leverage on it. Tighten the screws as best you can there usually are between 5 and 7 exposed threads. Now, move the swing arm up and down, it should move smoothly without binding, and should not hold itself up. The next thing I do is tighten the rear motor mount bolt and the recheck your swing arm movement, it will be a little tighter but, should still move smoothly and not bind.
Thanks Joe, I checked the movement of the arm but hadn't been as thorough as you. Great tip about the rear trans bolt, I'll have this down to an exact science in no time! :thumb:
Hopefully I don't end up with tank slappers as Jim mentioned!