Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Testarossa on June 02, 2015, 07:41:45 PM
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Of course the tach and speedo were submerged along with the rest of the T. After the flood I rinsed and dried them and was delighted to find that they still work. The tach is a little sticky -- the needle is reluctant to drop below 2k unless I tap the glass.
Before I invest in a professional rebuild or replacement, is it kosher to squirt a little graphite or WD40 into the cases in the hope of lubing the clockwork?
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Not WD40 as it is a lousy lubricant. Anything oily is going to attract dust and eventually gum up. Is there anything you can spray which later becomes dry? Like Dry-Slide? Although even the carrier solvents might create a temporary issue. I would ask and consult with a few of the well known instrument restorers listed on Gred Bender's site.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_gauge_repair.html (http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_gauge_repair.html)
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Re lubricant, find a clock maker in your area
When my Grandfather taught me the basics of clock disassembly and repair I'm sure that I was told that clock oil was somehow different and didn't gum up and had to be applied sparingly via the head of a sewing needle :thumb:
Still that was about 40 years ago so I could well be talking Bo$$cks :-)
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These units are not hard to work on and the tachometer uses the same magnetic drag coupling as the speedo. I would guess a unit of that vintage would use white metal as the frame rather than nylon.
I would recommend you stop riding the bike now as the gears are most certainly metal in these units and the fine grit is just destroying them.
Here is the link to the repair I did recently http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=76486.0
The oil is critical as mentioned by Tris. You need a a stable oil that won't out gas and become wax. Just search watchmaker oil for various explanations and types.
I wish I lived closer as I'd love to make a "How to!" for these units, assuming you'd let me get my hands on them.
Regards,
Adam
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Thanks for the help! Adam, the tutorial is great. I'll use your instructions to take it apart.
Onward --