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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Groover on June 04, 2015, 09:00:53 AM
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I'm reassembling my ‘81 G5 after a complete teardown and I have a few torque setting questions. I'm using the shop manual and owner’s manual, though seem like some info is missing or I'm just not seeing then, either way, I’m hoping someone here can confirm a few settings:
From Shop Manual:
Front and Wheel Axle Nuts: 14-15 kgm (100-108 ft/lbs)
Front Wheel and Rear Wheel Axle Securing/Pinch Bolts: ?? (Can't find anything)
Fork Tube pinch bolts: ?? (Can't find anything)
Top Plug, Front Fork (Assuming these are the big aluminum screws): 12-15 kgm (87-108 ft/lbs)
Cap Nuts, Swing Arm: 8 kgm (57 ft/lbs)
I think that's it for now. I have mostly tighten things based on best judgment, and some I may have gone tighter. For example the big bolts that hold the engine to the frame; If I understand the shop manual (Bolts, Cradle to Frame) says: 8 kgm (57 ft/lbs) which seems pretty low to me and I'm pretty sure I went much tighter on those - any problems with that? (Going tighter) - They are already done, and nothing stripped or anything - just don't want to bolts to "explode" with engine vibrations.
Also... the manual for the G5 says to use 2 oz. fork oil per leg, and the SP1000 (1st gen) says to use 3 oz per leg. My forks I'm pretty sure look just like the SP forks. I went with approximately 2.5 oz. on each fork. Would that cause any issues (on being either .5 oz. over or .5 oz. under depending on which manual you use)?
Finally... front brake caliper shimming: What am I looking for when doing that? Just smooth rotation when brakes are not applied, or is there something else I need to verify when shimming those?
Thanks for the assistance.
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fork oil is for lube, not damping (although it can contribute if too thick). amount not critical, too much however and you have a very high rising rate air spring above it which cause harshness and pop seals.
if you look at the rotor from the front of the bike (look at the ~5mm wide edge), and then look up at the caliper, the caliper parting surface (it is split down the middle) should bisect the rotor. Not rocket science, if the center of the caliper (by the location of the parting surface) is not in the center of the ~5mm wide rotor, shim the caliper to make it so. Now on those old bikes, adding shims makes the caliper move outboard relative to the rotor. If you need to move the caliper inward, you are in a bit of a jam. You can do some things even them. You can try turning the wheel around, you can add shims to the axle spacer or get a new axle spacer machined. or you can live with a bit of mis-alignment since these are double (opposed piston) action calipers. The pistons will find their own sweet spot.
If you are running more modern 4 piston calipers on intermediate hanger brackets, then you have the option of shiming outward or inward...
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Sounds like I should be safe with that .5 (+ or -) fork oil, and thanks for clarifying the shimming. That makes sense completely, and sounds easy enough.
Thanks again.
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Guzzi restoration guide has 32 flbs. For front and rear fork bolts for heavyweight twins.
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Guzzi restoration guide has 32 flbs. For front and rear fork bolts for heavyweight twins.
Thanks Matteo, is this for the triple tree for fork tube pinch bolts? (2 on lower section, and 3 on top)
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Sounds like I should be safe with that .5 (+ or -) fork oil, and thanks for clarifying the shimming. That makes sense completely, and sounds easy enough.
Thanks again.
I recall using anywhere from 60cc to 110cc, which is 2 ounces to about 3.5
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Thanks Matteo, is this for the triple tree for fork tube pinch bolts? (2 on lower section, and 3 on top)
I use those for the axle pinch bolts (fork bolts). For the fork yokes (triple trees)it is also 32ftlbs.
Matt
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Matteo (or anyone else) is there a recommended torque spec for the police side stand mount (the 4 bolts to the lower rail) and also a spec for the two rear-most frame bolts that hold the grab rail & rear fender to the frame? (No saddlebag mount being used at this point).
Thanks again!
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Use the standard torque tables for those fasteners. They are 8mm, nothing special. So 18 - 22# Loctite can be your friend, but I don't use it for these.
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Perfect. Thanks!