Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kiwi_Roy on June 10, 2015, 07:51:03 AM
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After Stan From Hell gave a demo at one of the coffee meets I was determined to go that route
He has used this method for many years on all kinds of bikes from his 46 Indian on up.
Make sure the rim is really clean, I wiped mine down with acetone
One tube of GE silicone (for aluminiun) is probably enough for 4 wheels
To stop the silicone gumming up the nipple threads I cut out little dots of Duct tape with a hollow punch'
Applying the silicone is a really messy process in two steps, first seal each nipple then after that dries apply a top coat
I used a chunk of old cutting board to try and smooth out the layer, It wasn't that successful but at least it knocks down the high spots.
Here's a little slide show
http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/Kiwi_Roy/slideshow/72%20Eldo/Sealing%20Wheels
It sure feels good not having the prospect of repairing a tube beside the road.
Seems to work on my 50 YO Boranies anyway.
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We've hashed this many times. See the LoopList archives for some good detailed discussion. Greg Field was who I think first posted the technique and it has seen several improvements by others over the years. Glad to hear a recent report of it working for someone else! :thumb:
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Thanks for posting this Roy.
I recently picked up a used ('09) KLR-650. The first task was to change to new tires -- I used tubeless Shinko 705s, with the tubes inside. It would be nice to not have to use the tubes, but I don't know if the KLR rims have a good enough bead to give me a dependable, solid seal at that joint. Sounds like a good winter project.
Ride safe.
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:thumb:
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It would be nice to not have to use the tubes, but I don't know if the KLR rims have a good enough bead to give me a dependable, solid seal at that joint.
I was worried about that too. The shop where I buy my tires were a little reluctant but after seeing the way these old Borrani ones went I think they are convinced. They use a lubricant/sealant when they put the tires on that will seal any scratches.
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I was worried about that too.
Well, it is in fact something to worry about, I think. The rim wasn't designed for what you're using it for. The technique's "bona fides" are along the lines of "Well I've done it to mine and I haven't crashed yet because a tire came off the rim!".
That's OK as far as it goes, but the input from those who DID crash under load at speed when the tire came off will tend to be under-represented, for reasons you can imagine.
That's just my take; YOU ride on.
Lannis (I like hash, reheated)
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Lannis,
Why should these come off, certainly not without some other form of trauma like hitting a huge rut.
True, these rims were probably built before tubeless tires, the profile is wrong.
The rims on my V11 Sport were designed for tubeless but for some reason the rear went flat in seconds at well over 100 MPH, I had no valve cap on at the time so I blamed it on centrifugal force lifting the valve but perhaps it was the bead seal breaking. I was carrying an electric pump so I was able to get going again in minutes, It would take the better part of a day to remove a wheel, take it to a tire shop and get it back.
Yes, I will ride ON and not worry :bike-037:
Cheers
Roy
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So Lannis, you think that tube is keeping the old tube tire on that old tube rim once deflated? Does it act like a rim lock, hmmm? Or should everyone with an old tube rim replace their wheels, since they are clearly unsafe (tubed or not)? If anything, tubeless tires greater resistance to deflafion when punctured makes them a safer alternative for old tube rims (nevermind cooler running, longer tire life, less unsprung and rotating weight). How many times have you worn the head off a nail that punctured a tubeless tire because you had no idea until you looked (or had a SLOW leak). Ever happen on a tubed tire? Not to me. Deflation is immediate.
Just because a rim was not made to run tubeless, doesn't mean it is unsafe to do so. On the contrary it is always safer running tubeless regardless of rim profile. Tubes do not keep tires from jumping off old style rims, and actually make it more likely. Your faulty logic could cause someone to forego tubeless and the safety it provides.
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So Lannis, you think that tube is keeping the old tube tire on that old tube rim once deflated? Does it act like a rim lock, hmmm? Or should everyone with an old tube rim replace their wheels, since they are clearly unsafe (tubed or not)? If anything, tubeless tires greater resistance to deflafion when punctured makes them a safer alternative for old tube rims (nevermind cooler running, longer tire life, less unsprung and rotating weight). How many times have you worn the head off a nail that punctured a tubeless tire because you had no idea until you looked (or had a SLOW leak). Ever happen on a tubed tire? Not to me. Deflation is immediate.
Just because a rim was not made to run tubeless, doesn't mean it is unsafe to do so. On the contrary it is always safer running tubeless regardless of rim profile. Tubes do not keep tires from jumping off old style rims, and actually make it more likely. Your faulty logic could cause someone to forego tubeless and the safety it provides.
Well, obviously I don't agree. Even to the degree that, just prior to Fay and I taking a 2000 mile two-up summertime ride on your old red-and-white 1000SP, I converted the wheels on it that you converted to tubeless BACK to tubes. When you say
"Just because a rim was not made to run tubeless, doesn't mean it is unsafe to do so. On the contrary it is always safer running tubeless regardless of rim profile",
I have no idea how you "know" that. I certainly don't know it, and it's my arse on the line. If I were to get a nail in my tubed tire, it would just get stuck in the Slime anyway ... (Yes, Wayne, I know that if a big piece of metal cuts the tire wide open, I'm hosed anyway ....)
So I'll stake my safety on what I think and what I've experienced ... can't do more than that. If I thought my "logic" was faulty and it would cause someone else to be unsafe, I wouldn't do it.
Lannis
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I've converted both my California Stones to tubeless and couldn't be happier. What is important for such conversions is that there is a sufficient depth of the rim's bead area. I looked at the OEM rims of my 74 Norton and they definitely are NOT deep enough for tubeless conversion. The Cali Stone rims certainly are.
Ralph
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I've converted both my California Stones to tubeless and couldn't be happier. What is important for such conversions is that there is a sufficient depth of the rim's bead area. I looked at the OEM rims of my 74 Norton and they definitely are NOT deep enough for tubeless conversion. The Cali Stone rims certainly are.
Ralph
I'm glad if you're happy with your assessment, but how you calibrated your eyeball to get "definitely" and "certainly" out of your observation is above my pay grade ....
Lannis
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I know many people who have made this modification and experienced no problems.
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I know many people who have made this modification and experienced no problems.
So do I.
Lannis