Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: grisoguzzi on June 20, 2015, 02:33:08 PM
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Here's a poser for the knowledgeable;-
I have a '98 Cali EV with junk in the frame tubes. Unfortunately, the oil return is to the heads via the frame cross-tube. I'd like an alternative route for oil return so that I can by-pass the junk in the frame.
Is there any reason why an oil line to either;-
a) the cam sensor hole or,
b) the distributor blanking plate (where the Distributor sat on earlier models) would not work as an alternative oil return route?
And, would I need a 1 way valve fitted so that crankcase pressure doesn't prevent oil return flow?
N.B. the EV 1100 motor has been retro-fittted with carbs and CDI so the cam sensor hole is free and available.
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When I dual plugged my heads, I lost the return path to the heads. I put a fitting in the distributor blank off plate that is a pcv . Works well
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you still need a breather space before dumping back to the case don't you? and there is a valve in the exit tube from the engine.
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Yeah, that's right, Brad. I still use my frame and the rest of the breather system, I drain it thru the dist hole. if your going to not use the frame, maybe an early LeMans type breather box would work
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When I dual plugged my heads, I lost the return path to the heads. I put a fitting in the distributor blank off plate that is a pcv . Works well
Good to know, I machined an EV block for a distributor and old school cam. I plan on using the old crank position hole for an oil return as the EV motor lacks the round fin bits.
Bolting an 1100 EV motor into a T-3 utilizing T-3 technology makes me feel...curmudgeoney :wink:
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I thought about putting a tube ending near the gear to draw some oil out,I have a cam in there with a gear. I didn't do more than think about it because I don't need it, have a genuine Roper plate installed.the cam sensor hole would be a perfect place for something like that though.
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When I dual plugged my heads, I lost the return path to the heads. I put a fitting in the distributor blank off plate that is a pcv . Works well
Thanks for that - so, can you share any info on the pcv fitting please?
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I think it's from a Ford, just a pcv with threaded end on block side and hose barb on the other
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(http://pokeyman.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Motorcycles/i-HFqNdbQ/0/L/block-L.jpg)
Here's where I've been for a while. I lack the artistry to make the slug unslugly.
My plan is to make the plate thick enough to thread a nipple through, I *think* one of the nipples I took out of the heads will do fine.
My question for the learned: The oil return on the early bikes seemed to be below oil level, which would dampen/eliminate air pressure variations. The return through points higher would have to deal with negative and positive pressure while attempting to dump oil back into the crankcase.
Am I over-thinking this?
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My oil return line was cut short a couple years ago. I also removed the pcv.
I use the frame for a catch can now, but, in the past I have made my own. Piece of copper (or Al or any other gas, oil and heat resistant material you want) tubing (2-3"dia) cut about 4" long. Put some steel wool in there. Two small dia pipes (or hose barb fittings) on top, one on bottom (I assembled mine with JB Weld). Engine vent line goes to top. Also from top is the vent line that I route to near the center stand. Bottom is return line to crankcase.
Or, old school hot rod...just take the vent line and route it to a catch can. Empty when needed.
Remember in the old days cars had a crankcase vent on a rocker cover that also served as the oil fill cap. It had some steel wool stuffed in the cap to prevent dirt from being sucked into system. Very dirty since oil would drip from cap onto engine valve cover.
Yes, these methods are in violation of emissions rules. :)
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Well you do want to encourage flow in one direction. So that would be the outlet with check ball to an air/oil separator with an oil drain with pcv and an air bleed off with a check valve if necessary. I didn't put a pcv in the air bleed. Some run that air bleed to a fitting in the exhaust designed to pull a vacuum but I didn't need that either,just dumped that overboard. You'll have to design your own system and then get that to work by trial and error.