Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: hwhitaker on July 02, 2015, 08:38:27 AM
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The first time I went to start the Norge this year it didn't !! Turned out that the fuse (15 amp) for the lights and starter had blown. I replaced the fuse and put a couple hundred miles on the bike and then the fuse blow again. I might of started it about 12-15 times between the time the second one blew. I have replaced the fuse again and I'm in the process of finding the short. However with a new fuse installed the bike will start and I have the tail light, what I don't have is the front lights. No low beam or high beam but the high beam flash does work. Before I start removing more body panals, has anyone had this problem? Also, I can get to the high beam bulbs but didn't see a boot covering the low beam bulbs. Do you have to remove the panel that holds the high beam bulds to get to the low beam bulbs? Any info would be a great help....thanks...
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OP.
I recently replaced the low-beam bulbs on my '09 Norge; I had to remove the dash (black plastic panel along with instrument cluster) in order to get to the bulbs. It's not a huge deal, but does require removal of windscreen and black plastic cover of the WS adjustment mechanism behind the WS.
Jon
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Not sure if yours is related to this: http://motorcycleviews.com/recalls/rec08v305000.htm
And, if, as Jon notes, you get into undressing your Norge, you might as well lube that screw mechanism that raises and lowers the w/s.
Bill
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The 15 amp fuse blowing is easily related to the 'startus interruptus'. A sticking solenoid will pop that fuse when you try to start it. Modify the wiring, get the kit from MPH, or even try a 20 amp fuse.
On the lights, keep in mind that they only light AFTER the motor is running.
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I have read about the startus interruptus. What I don't understand is why I had lights the last time I changed the fuse but lost low & high beams this time around. I know the high beam bulbs are good because they work on the high beam flash. I will check the low beam bulbs but I'm guessing they aren't bad. Like I said, I lose high and low lights after the last fuse blew. Tail light works, park lights work, turns work. I don't think I will put in a larger fuse because all that does is dance around the real problem. I do thank you for your comments....
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So the motor starts and runs, and no lights with the motor running?
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My 09 Norge had part of the wiring to the headlights replaced before delivery because of the recall mentioned above. May very well be your problem also. I also had startusinteruptus which I fixed myself. Don't remember it effecting the headlights.
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Doesn't the regulator tie into the headlight circuit?
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I suggest that it is two different issues. The fuse blowing can probably be fixed with the status interrupts solution.
However, this should not be affecting the headlights. I'm suggesting a fault with the lighting relay or something else related to it.
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I'm not sure as to what all is going on with my bike but I now have lights when it's running. I need to look into the starter kit. Can someone tell me what's in the kit ?
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So, when the lights did not work before, was the motor running?
(this is the third time I have mentioned this and you did not acknowledge)
What kit are you asking about? The startus interruptus kit from MPH?
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I'm not sure as to what all is going on with my bike but I now have lights when it's running. I need to look into the starter kit. Can someone tell me what's in the kit ?
The MPH kit is an easy-to-install version of something that has been standard practice among the electrically savvy for a while. It consists of a pair of quick-connects and a fused wire; as a unit, they ensure that the starter is supplied with adequate power that is NOT run through the circuit up to the switch on the handlebars. In the case of the CARC bikes, the wiring is such that it gets its relay signal after the ABS and ECU linkage (i.e, it stays computer controlled). In other words, no matter how poor the voltage to the relay from the switch, as long as the relay is tripped, the starter will get a good voltage (unless of course the battery is low, in which case the starter gets whatever the battery has to give).
You can do it yourself, or if you're not handy (or want the ability to remove the change easily) the MPH unit is an excellent choice.