Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Trevor G on July 03, 2015, 06:33:59 AM
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When they brought out the new rocker cover series engines I thought they claimed 52hp.
Now I see that the latest models with 6 speed gearboxes (and maybe earlier ones as well) only claim 50hp.
What gives? Has someone forced them to be honest, or are this forum's more sedate riders who prefer 48hp more important to the factory? ;-)
Seriously, does anyone know?
Cheers ;-)
Trevor G
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I'm looking at the 2013 V7 Model Guide PDF from Guzzi.
It claims:
Max power at crankshaft 37 kW (50HP) at 6,200 rpm
Maximum torque at crankshaft 42.7 ft lbs. / 58Nm at 5,000 rpm
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The extra power was eaten by faeries.
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The extra power was eaten by faeries.
Pete, I'm surprised that a man of Guzzi knowledge such as yourself would post such nonsense.
Sure, my V7 only has 50 stock horses, but I squeeze an extra 2 out of it by topping off the tank with a 1/4 cup of unicorn piss.
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How many times are we going to split hairs on the power of the new V7's? Getting very old.
It is what it is.
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How many times are we going to split hairs on the power of the new V7's? Getting very old.
It is what it is.
and it IS fantastic.
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and it IS fantastic.
Yup!
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Maybe it's because it's initially stated as kW and then translated to HP, with different rounding errors.
One brochure states "37 kW (50 HP)" whereas 37 kW actually equals 49.617817..... HP. Want to quibble?
Also, the EU as well as some other countries have driver's license categories based on maximum allowed power output, expressed in kW. A motorcycle with 52 HP would be at 38.78 kW, whereas one with 50 HP would be at 37.28 kW, and perhaps some power class limit somewhere is 38 kW (just hypothesizing here).
Regardless, I doubt that any device can measure engine power output to less than 5% or so accuracy or reproducibility.
In my experience, unicorn piss does help.
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Guzzi has realized that with claims of owner satisfaction and possible unreliability that it is best to drop a few horses from their promo pages.
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and it IS fantastic.
Agreed!
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... when Guzzi brings those 4 horses back into their promo pages sales will double. Brilliant marketing! :thumb: :boozing:
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I could not give a rat's ass what the power numbers are for the bike. It doesn't matter, I live the bike. the only thing I would like to do is improve the cold starting, and tractability from 1.5k-3k rpm. It sure seems like a wonderful motor, and a minor tweak of the map would do it wonders.
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I could not give a rat's ass what the power numbers are for the bike. It doesn't matter, I live the bike. the only thing I would like to do is improve the cold starting, and tractability from 1.5k-3k rpm. It sure seems like a wonderful motor, and a minor tweak of the map would do it wonders.
I don't know when you bought your bike, but I had my '13 V7 Stone's ECU software updated by the dealer in October 2014 to Vers. 352BV738, and since then there have been no cold-starting issues, no flat spots, just runs well. My new V7-II Stone also has no engine issues. So, I think MG finally got the mapping sorted out.
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I don't know when you bought your bike, but I had my '13 V7 Stone's ECU software updated by the dealer in October 2014 to Vers. 352BV738, and since then there have been no cold-starting issues, no flat spots, just runs well. My new V7-II Stone also has no engine issues. So, I think MG finally got the mapping sorted out.
I REALLY gotta make it up to Coopersburg Eurosports and get that done.
My 13 Stone still has: 352BV149 and the cold stalling issues.
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Probably bad gas. Different Ethanol percentage? ECU map left in normal mode instead of the super secret super power mode during testing?
Transcription error?
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Penderic/EyeChartBlurry_zpsb484h5bc.jpg)
:rolleyes:
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As I've stated before. compliments of the EPA different parts of the USA has to use diff. blends of fuel diff. times of the year. Look it up for yourself. This may be what's happening to you.
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As I've stated before. compliments of the EPA different parts of the USA has to use diff. blends of fuel diff. times of the year. Look it up for yourself. This may be what's happening to you.
Which "you" you talking to?
If you mean me, I'm well aware. As a matter of fact when we switch from winter formula/oxygenated fuel I can instantly see a gain of a couple of mpg across the board in all our vehicles.
The irony is that IF this is fuel related and not ancient temperature related then it's the crappy winter formula has the does it less or not at all.
But it seems more directly related to ambient conditions, it's at it's worst at high heat and humidity.
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Has anyone tried both the old, small rocker cover Racer, and the new, large rocker cover Racer?
Or made the comparison with any of the other variants? I know there's more to it than the size of the rocker covers, I'm just using that as a reference.
I've only ridden a Breva around town and that was definitely smoother and possibly as quick or quicker, around town, as my Lario.
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Jay and I compared his V7C to my Stone back to back one day almost two years ago and posted a review thread.
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But it seems more directly related to ambient conditions, it's at it's worst at high heat and humidity.
MY '13 V7R wants to be warmed up for a minute or two no matter the conditions. If I tried to go too soon, it dies.
I can coax it to go a little sooner by revving more engaging the clutch slowly, which is what I do to save it from dying if I try to leave to soon. It is what it is, I've gotten used to it, so, it isn't a problem.
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Same with the 2007 Breva 750 that I used to own as well as my 2010 V7 Classic. Whatever the reason, if I let it idle for approximately 2-3 minutes before attempting to ride off, no stumbles at all; But........if I don't I have to keep the revs up in the 1500+ rpm range for the first one to two minutes before it will smooth out.
My procedure is to start the bike on the center stand and let it idle while I put in my earplugs, helmet & gloves and do a quick check of the headlight, tail & brake lights. By then, the bike is ready to ride.
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KWs , well hell , there's the problem , mixed with ancient temperatures and Italian air , who really knows what is going on here :grin:
Do Italian dynamometers measure in prancing horses ?
Dusty
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Same with the 2007 Breva 750 that I used to own as well as my 2010 V7 Classic. Whatever the reason, if I let it idle for approximately 2-3 minutes before attempting to ride off, no stumbles at all; But........if I don't I have to keep the revs up in the 1500+ rpm range for the first one to two minutes before it will smooth out.
My procedure is to start the bike on the center stand and let it idle while I put in my earplugs, helmet & gloves and do a quick check of the headlight, tail & brake lights. By then, the bike is ready to ride.
This is very different from what we're talking about.
With the 2TB Smallblock (just like my old Jackal) you have direct physical control over the throttle plates through both the throttle itself and the fast idle cable.
On my Jackal or even I think on Jay's old V7C one could set the fast idle lever and ride away within seconds of starting.
But on the 1TB we've got no direct control of the idle speed or the throttle plates (other than what Pete describes as limited off idle movement for limp home). He tells us it's a modified ride by wrote system and suspects that idle speed is largely managed by idle spark timing.
What the bike literally does on cold starts is to actively hunt you and down the rec range, sometimes for minutes. While it is hunting putting it in gear and trying to give it any small amount of fuel and/or ANY slight slip of the clutch and the motor will just die.
You MIGHT be able to pork away if you scream the motor to maybe 3k or more while slipping the clutch, which isn't good for the clutch and can't be particularly good for a motor that is just warning up either.
It's mostly just annoying, but has caught me off guard (early on in ownership) and actually caused a safety issue (when I rolled into traffic after it stalled trying to shoot a gap).
Thing is I've owned like seven other EFI bikes and none of them ever did anything like this. If this is the only fault I can live with it, but there seems to be an updated map I'd at least like to try.
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Kev m, you really should get that ECU flash update done on your '13 V7.
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Kev m, you really should get that ECU flash update done on your '13 V7.
Planning on it, when Jenn's maintenance light turns on we'll find a day to ride the 150 mile round trip to the dealer to reset it and reflash the V7.
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Planning on it, when Jenn's maintenance light turns on we'll find a day to ride the 150 mile round trip to the dealer to reset it and reflash the V7.
If your '13 is like mine, the MAINT indicator will come on early, at about 4660 mi (7500 km) instead of when it should, at 6214 mi (10,000 km), because MG forgot to update the instrument panel to match the new recommended change interval. They finally got around to it on my '16 Stone.
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If your '13 is like mine, the MAINT indicator will come on early, at about 4660 mi (7500 km) instead of when it should, at 6214 mi (10,000 km), because MG forgot to update the instrument panel to match the new recommended change interval. They finally got around to it on my '16 Stone.
Yes, I'm aware of that thanks.
I'm actually talking about Jenn's Duc 696 maintenance light. It will come on in a few hundred miles at exactly 7500. We had the valve adjustment done recently at 6800 because of timing and convenience.