Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Jimbolong on July 25, 2015, 09:54:30 AM
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I have a 2009 V7 classic. Has anyone managed to fit a hydraulic clutch to this generation of bike?
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This got to page three with no replies, so I'm guessing that no one has.
I guess the clutch is light enough that no-one figured there would be a need!
Why, did you want to fit one? How come?
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Yes, I keep reading in different places that the V7 has a light clutch pull. That does not seem to be the case with mine. A couple of other bikes I have tried (Triumph Bonneville and Ducati Scrambler) have much lighter clutches. I have replaced my clutch cable and made sure that it not riding against the cylinder. This might have helped marginally, but not enough to really solve my problem. I should point out that I am 75 years old and have arthritis in my hands. This definitely makes things worse for me but, never the less, I know there are bikes with much softer clutches. I like the V7 and dont really want a different bike so I was hoping I had other options (and I''m not really sure that a hydraulic clutch would solve the problem).
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Here's one thing you might try, don't know if it's applicable to the V7 or not. Measure the center-to-center distance from the pivot bolt to the hole the clutch cable "barrel" fits into on the clutch lever. In the photo below it's 30 mm. If you can find another clutch lever assembly with a distance of 25 mm (for instance), that will effectively lower the clutch effort.
(http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m5/Amboman4/C14%20Ride%20002_zpsbit1svot.jpg)
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Another option to try is a 2:1 reduction by adding a pulley to the gearbox lever, the cable goes around the pulley and fixes back to the gearbox.
I have seen one on a beamer but you could make something similar with a short length of bicycle chain and sprocket so the cable gets a straight pull.
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Another option to try is a 2:1 reduction by adding a pulley to the gearbox lever, the cable goes around the pulley and fixes back to the gearbox.
I have seen one on a beamer but you could make something similar with a short length of bicycle chain and sprocket so the cable gets a straight pull.
I've installed a few of those on BMWs and they work well, but can make the engagement less progressive. Doubt there's space on a small-block for all of the hardware though.
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I have seen those devices advertised but if it is a 2:1 reduction in effort wouldn't it require twice as long movement of the lever? I find that I must have my lever adjusted with minimum free play and then pull it all the way to the hand grip. Otherwise shifting becomes difficult. I don't see how I would be able to use a 2:1 reduction even if I could fit it on.
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I have seen those devices advertised but if it is a 2:1 reduction in effort wouldn't it require twice as long movement of the lever? I find that I must have my lever adjusted with minimum free play and then pull it all the way to the hand grip. Otherwise shifting becomes difficult. I don't see how I would be able to use a 2:1 reduction even if I could fit it on.
No, the handlebar lever moves the same distance but it only requires half the effort, because it's only pulling the lever on the transmission half as far.
If "half as far" doesn't get you full clutch disengagement, though, it's not going to work on your bike.
Lannis
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I have seen those devices advertised but if it is a 2:1 reduction in effort wouldn't it require twice as long movement of the lever? I find that I must have my lever adjusted with minimum free play and then pull it all the way to the hand grip. Otherwise shifting becomes difficult. I don't see how I would be able to use a 2:1 reduction even if I could fit it on.
Shifting can be difficult and many times engagement of the clutch is achieved when the lever is almost to the end of travel. Neither exactly optimal. A clutch lever assembly with a slightly "lower ratio" doesn't seem to have either of these issues. Or, at least, it's much less noticeable.