Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: willowstreetguzziguy on August 23, 2015, 07:11:44 PM
-
Measuring the engine oil on my '08 1200 Sport calls for it to be upright, hot, and dipstick not screwed in. My bike doesn't have a center stand so keeping it upright for measuring requires two people. The engine, dipstick and exhaust pipe are HOT. This requires me to wear a heavy leather work glove to do the task. (I wish for a glass measuring window like on my BMW K75S.)
Yesterday I measured and added oil to the top mark of the dipstick using this "HOT" method.
So this got me to thinking... Today, I measured the oil level on the dipstick while the engine is COLD and leaning on the SIDE STAND. It was slightly higher on the dipstick and I made a notch on the dipstick for the cold engine "full" mark. I now need to figure out the cold engine "Low" mark on the dipstick.
Is there anything wrong with marking and doing a "COLD ENGINE / SIDE STAND" measurement of the oil level this way and marking it on the dipstick? It's just that the dipstick marks are now revised. Am I wrong?
-
You're good.
Other than the fact that you've just invented the wheel again (people have been preaching this method for as long as I've been here) there's nothing to see here... Move along. :wink:
-
Thanks, As long as I allow (overnight) the oil to completely drain to the bottom, the measurement on the dipstick is the NEW mark. I'll measure it BEFORE I ride.
-
So why are some of the Guzzi models screwed in (EV) and some are screwed out (Breva)? Or are they just screwed up?
-
For what it's worth that's sorta what I've done on all 3 Guzzis, though I've always had center stands and I never made an actual mark. I've always eyeballed something that looked close enough. Both my big blocks liked to be around the middle of the dipstick range measured cold and upright, and my V7 is more conventional in that I can keep it near the top of the range (cold, upright) and it never seems to move anyway.
Guess I'm saying don't sweat the details... Oil is good. Too much or too little by a margin is bad.
Dill, I still wonder whether it was a translation problem (screwed upward meaning unthreaded NOT THREADED and tightened) or just a quirky Italian engineer. I should add to my above explanation that on my Jackal I didn't bother rethreading it, but again, I never tried to keep it AT the very top line.
I'll note that the VAST MAJORITY of every other major engine maker for longer than I've been alive have all preferred NOT THREADED (as that method just makes no sense anyway). And it seems like Guzzi agrees as my B11 and V7 are checked NOT THREADED according to the factory.
-
Everything I own gets the dipstick oil level checked with it threaded in. :smiley: I have 9 MCs/scooters. 1 of them has a sight glass for oil level and you wait at least 20 min. after running before checking it's oil level. My dry sump motor you run @ least 5 min. before you check it's dip stick oil level. All my rigs are checked upright.
-
Everything I own gets the dipstick oil level checked with it threaded in. :smiley:
You have a garage of freaks. :kiss:
-
Measuring the engine oil on my '08 1200 Sport calls for it to be upright, hot, and dipstick not screwed in. My bike doesn't have a center stand so keeping it upright for measuring requires two people. The engine, dipstick and exhaust pipe are HOT. This requires me to wear a heavy leather work glove to do the task. (I wish for a glass measuring window like on my BMW K75S.)
Yesterday I measured and added oil to the top mark of the dipstick using this "HOT" method.
So this got me to thinking... Today, I measured the oil level on the dipstick while the engine is COLD and leaning on the SIDE STAND. It was slightly higher on the dipstick and I made a notch on the dipstick for the cold engine "full" mark. I now need to figure out the cold engine "Low" mark on the dipstick.
Is there anything wrong with marking and doing a "COLD ENGINE / SIDE STAND" measurement of the oil level this way and marking it on the dipstick? It's just that the dipstick marks are now revised. Am I wrong?
I measure my 1200 Sport oil cold on the side stand with two pieces of 2X4 under the stand and the dipstick not screwed in. This puts the bike close enough to vertical for a decent measurement but stable enough and allows one person to do it. No helper required. I aim for having the oil level midway between the upper and lower marks which by trial and error measurement coincides with about 3 liters in the sump. Seems like if I put the specified amount of oil in the sump (3.6 liters) the 0.6 liters gets blown out the breather and the bike seems happy with 3 liters. If you want to know for sure, drain your sump and measure. Put exactly 3 (or 3.6) liters back in and calibrate your dipstick however you like!
-
You have a garage of freaks. :kiss:
At least I don't overfill it.
-
At least I don't overfill it.
:grin:
-
The British invented the elegant oil pan.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Penderic/oil%20pan%20big_zpssrrjweeq.jpg)
:grin:
-
I think one thing you need to worry about checking the oil on a cold engine is if you have an oil cooler and it drains back into the sump. This would give you a false reading (too high). I usually fire the bike up and run it for a few seconds, then let it stand for a few min. then check. I prefer to do it with the bike being level because with it on it's side stand, it places the dip stick at a greater angle, at least with my V11 Sport and EV which requires the dip stick to be Screwed in for proper oil height. Now, the Norge has a real dipstick and a center stand :thumb:
I worked as a General Motors tech for 36 years and the factory states after running the engine, to let it stand for 5-6 min. before checking the engine oil level. Just saying :bow:
Mike
-
I just reach down while seated and unscrew it. Long arms, I guess.
Be glad your Guzzi doesn't work like my Husqvarna - no dipstick, no sight-glass, just a weep hole. Take out the screw/plug, if oil seeps out and makes a mess, then you have the right amount.
-
For what it's worth that's sorta what I've done on all 3 Guzzis, though I've always had center stands and I never made an actual mark. I've always eyeballed something that looked close enough. Both my big blocks liked to be around the middle of the dipstick range measured cold and upright, and my V7 is more conventional in that I can keep it near the top of the range (cold, upright) and it never seems to move anyway.
Guess I'm saying don't sweat the details... Oil is good. Too much or too little by a margin is bad.
Dill, I still wonder whether it was a translation problem (screwed upward meaning unthreaded NOT THREADED and tightened) or just a quirky Italian engineer. I should add to my above explanation that on my Jackal I didn't bother rethreading it, but again, I never tried to keep it AT the very top line.
I'll note that the VAST MAJORITY of every other major engine maker for longer than I've been alive have all preferred NOT THREADED (as that method just makes no sense anyway). And it seems like Guzzi agrees as my B11 and V7 are checked NOT THREADED according to the factory.
:1:
-
The British invented the elegant oil pan.
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Penderic/oil%20pan%20big_zpssrrjweeq.jpg)
:grin:
That is awesome!! Having a garage full of British bikes that ALL leak oil to varying degrees, I can relate. The 3 Guzzis currently sharing space with them, not a drop!!
-
That is awesome!! Having a garage full of British bikes that ALL leak oil to varying degrees, I can relate. The 3 Guzzis currently sharing space with them, not a drop!!
Maybe that's 'cause the Brit motors are vertically split vs. the Guzzi motors are horizontally split? But not all my Guzzis are oil drip free. :lipsrsealed: