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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: liquidtoni on August 27, 2015, 01:47:19 PM
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so,i ride the highway for half an hour ,1 cylinder fell out,barley made it home. its a 1979 g5 . happened again.the sparkplug is shiny,
seems like gas,the other is black powdry,makes sense, i keep riding low rpm.now it stopped alltogether,out of nothing,no juice.
i wait a minute,then it starts again.drive 10 miles,then it stops again.
tested the coils,primary resistance,is 2.5 and secondary 4600.i have a dyna 3 installed.the black box,needs 3ohm resistance from the coil..
is that the problem? are the numbers good,anyway?i get a spark when i connect a condenser,to the negative of the coils,that seems fine.
so are the numbers bad,the coil still good ,or is it probably the dyna? i will start the testing of the dyna tomorrow.
thanks for any help
toni
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so,i ride the highway for half an hour ,1 cylinder fell out,barley made it home. its a 1979 g5 . happened again.the sparkplug is shiny,
seems like gas,the other is black powdry,makes sense, i keep riding low rpm.now it stopped alltogether,out of nothing,no juice.
i wait a minute,then it starts again.drive 10 miles,then it stops again.
tested the coils,primary resistance,is 2.5 and secondary 4600.i have a dyna 3 installed.the black box,needs 3ohm resistance from the coil..
is that the problem? are the numbers good,anyway?i get a spark when i connect a condenser,to the negative of the coils,that seems fine.
so are the numbers bad,the coil still good ,or is it probably the dyna? i will start the testing of the dyna tomorrow.
thanks for any help
toni
Check the battery first. That's exactly what would happen if your battery was dying.
1) Load test it (at home or at a local chain auto parts place). Needs 12.65 volts fully charged up.
2) Check your charging system. Are you getting 13+ volts at the battery when running 3000 RPM or so?
3) Check your connections at the battery and at the ground straps. All good and tight?
Actually, rule 1 of troubleshooting says check Compression first, make sure a valve isn't hanging open or something .... but since it happened like it did, it's probably the battery ....
Lannis
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I agree with Lannis, it sounds like a low Voltage issue.
If the bike still cranks ok try a hot wire to the coils in case the loss is just in wiring.
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Good suggestions - just watching this thread at this point.
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Swap the coils around and see if the problem follows them or stays with the affected side. It could be as easy as a bad wire/plug cap/plug.
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I do not know if you are using Dyna 3 ohm/green coil which is what I have. But I went through 2 Dyan coils that acted exactly like that. Run, die, cool off, run again and die again. Over and over. Gotta have a spark plug in your pocket and when it dies put the plug on it, ground to to the head and check for spark right there on the spot.
Common problem for their coils. Send them in and sometimes it takes it 10 minutes for the coil to fail on the bench.
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thanks for the replys ,guys.
so,charging system has 13,5 -battery has 12,65.
now,it rides fine,again! but i am just waiting till it happens, again and again.i have only 4 tows by year at aaa.
i have the standard coils. is 2.5 ohm resistance on the coils primary good? and 4600 on the secondary?
another thing,i get the impression the bike runs too hot.the former owner had a ngk bp8es,one number colder than recommended.
the g5 should have a bp7es,which is hotter.what makes a bike run too hot?
-and the charging light is a tiny bit on,when i turn on the lights just a dim,don't know if that means something
thanks
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A hotter plug will not tend make it run hotter, just a chance of burning a hole in the piston if pushed to an race-extreme. Too cold a plug makes it foul with gas and eventually quit running. A warmer yet BP6ES is the correct plug for the point operated T and T3. May be some of your problem.
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You might want to check the Molex connector that go to the lamp bucket. There should be three I believe, unplug them, spray them with contact cleaner then lube them with contact lube before plugging them back in. The reason I say that is because the charging light/circuit runs through those as does the kill switch. The faint light may be something to keep an eye on, but that's a separate issue not related to this issue and you're obviously at the moment not having any charging issues. Could be just a poor connection cause the faint light.
The coils' Ohms.... not sure what the Dyna ones are rated, but I thought the "hotter" (green?) ones were 3 Ohms and the less hot (black?) 5.0 ohms, but again, not familiar with the Dyna coils. The factory and factory repros coils (oil or wax filled) range from 3.0+, to 5.0 Ohms. Most I've tested have been between 3.3 to 4.0 - I've tested about 6 total, and none were lower than 3.3 and none higher than 4.0 in my tests. Not sure what the secondary is supposed to be.
Hope that helps some.
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You might want to check the Molex connector that go to the lamp bucket. There should be three I believe, unplug them, spray them with contact cleaner then lube them with contact lube before plugging them back in. The reason I say that is because the charging light/circuit runs through those as does the kill switch. The faint light may be something to keep an eye on, but that's a separate issue not related to this issue and you're obviously at the moment not having any charging issues. Could be just a poor connection cause the faint light.
The coils' Ohms.... not sure what the Dyna ones are rated, but I thought the "hotter" (green?) ones were 3 Ohms and the less hot (black?) 5.0 ohms, but again, not familiar with the Dyna coils. The factory and factory repros coils (oil or wax filled) range from 3.0+, to 5.0 Ohms. Most I've tested have been between 3.3 to 4.0 - I've tested about 6 total, and none were lower than 3.3 and none higher than 4.0 in my tests. Not sure what the secondary is supposed to be.
Hope that helps some.
Dyna Green= 3 ohms and black= 5 ohms. You are correct.