Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Yukonica on September 04, 2015, 01:39:30 PM
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Part number from AF1 parts list which appears to be the MG parts catalogue.
Posted about an intermittent connection just the other day.
This morning I took the fairing/dash etc off to find that the cause is; one of the ignition switch leads has failed ~ as in browning (heat) of the nylon at the point of solder.
Haven't called my dealer yet to ask if it is a warranty issue. Not really a concern other than on principle.
The part to be replaced is GU32782510, the main switch, so it appears my riding season has ground to a halt.
If I have to take it apart to replace the key core I need to remove the whole mechanism. An easy job until I found the special screw listed above. It almost appears I have to lift the triple tree to get at the underside of that screw. Not going to happen. I'll drill and tap it if necessary... after all it looks like I'll have an entire winter to get the part installed.
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(http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd10/rodekyll1/littlepliars_zps36a34607.jpg) (http://s226.photobucket.com/user/rodekyll1/media/littlepliars_zps36a34607.jpg.html)
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The factory installs it by screwing it in until the top breaks off which acts as a torque limiter and a way of preventing the owner from doing home repairs. Way to go Guido. When you get it out , measure the threads to be sure they are not of a unique size to prevent you from replacing with a standard screw. If it is, just tap it for the next size larger normal screw. Put it back together using allens.
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I had similar problems with stripped bolt heads. I used a flat file to make a sort of bolt head on 2 sides. I filed it until a wrench I thought I could use finally fit tightly on the newly created flats. Be sure to spray some WD-40 to aid in the extraction. Hope that works for you.
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Thanks all....
You have to ask yourself 'why?' Why would they bother?
It is possible to disassemble every other part of the machine. Trying to prevent someone from removing a single component that can be bypassed with wire snips and electrical tape is ludicrous. If they wanted to prevent home maintenance they should have safety wired the valve adjusters.
Regardless; thank you each for pointing me down the path.
Even if it does lead to a crappy after-dark organ concert in the desert. :thumb:
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Those bolts are soft. We use a torx bit/socket as an easy out. Drill a hole down into the center of the bolt just smaller than the torx teeth and drive the torx bit into the hole then just remove it like it was a regular bolt.
Happy Labor day :boozing:
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Those bolts are soft. We use a torx bit/socket as an easy out. Drill a hole down into the center of the bolt just smaller than the torx teeth and drive the torx bit into the hole then just remove it like it was a regular bolt.
Happy Labor day :boozing:
Cool solution!
Roughly what torque are these things set to?
20 pounds? 140? (to prevent tinkering ~ kidding)
And; thank you.
Do you have access to the switch unit mentioned in the opening of the post?
Not looking for it to be 'in-stock ~ just 'can you get it'.
This is September, this is Yukon, there is snow on the hills and in the air. AKA no rush.
I'd prefer to spend my coins to support the supporters.
Cheers.
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So what's wrong with my solution -- grab with grabby pliars and turn?
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So what's wrong with my solution -- grab with grabby pliars and turn?
Absolutely nothing is wrong with your solution, my friend. :bow:
But I have all these tools and a whole winter to fix one stinking little soldered joint so I may as well learn some new techniques.
If I could solder with any competence the bike would be back on the road today.
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So what's wrong with my solution -- grab with grabby pliars and turn?
The problem is that the conical shape makes it very hard to grab them with anything. They are supposed to be 'Tamper Proof' to deter casual thieves from removing the ignition switch/steering lock but as has been pointed out the ignition side of it is easily defeated. It is very silly, I replace them with standard 8mm allens once I've got the horrid little bastards out.
My usual way is to cut a slot in the conical *Head* of the security bolt and then hammer a flat bladed screwdriver into it. If that doesn't work Mike's solution is reliable and effective.
Pete
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So what's wrong with my solution -- grab with grabby pliars and turn?
I have used your method only with vice grips.
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Cool solution!
Roughly what torque are these things set to?
20 pounds? 140? (to prevent tinkering ~ kidding)
And; thank you.
Do you have access to the switch unit mentioned in the opening of the post?
Not looking for it to be 'in-stock ~ just 'can you get it'.
This is September, this is Yukon, there is snow on the hills and in the air. AKA no rush.
I'd prefer to spend my coins to support the supporters.
Cheers.
Not really sure but I would bet Curtis will have to order it for you. That is a quick process, usually here within a week.
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So what's wrong with my solution -- grab with grabby pliars and turn?
That is known as the BFTI method taught at the HD technical school :violent1:
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The electrical part of the switches is held on with two Phillips screws, just take that off and leave the lock behind.
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So what's wrong with my solution -- grab with grabby pliars and turn?
I believe pliars is spelt pliers, maybe Windows 10 spell check needs an update?
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If I gave a crap about how it were spelt Ida rund the spelchex on it.
The pliars pictured do the deed for me.
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The electrical part of the switches is held on with two Phillips screws, just take that off and leave the lock behind.
... just today... : been there done that.
Because I am an inept mechanically illiterate buffoon I make a practise of disassembling from the periphery and working in until I find the solution.
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If I gave a crap about how it were spelt Ida rund the spelchex on it.
The pliars pictured do the deed for me.
Correct spelling is something intelligent people strive for.
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I'll make two observations, Kent:
First, you're on double-secret public probation. Disrupting topics will get you banned, and you've been warned. So back the hell off.
Second, this MacBook pro won't load windows 10. So again -- back the hell off.
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I'll make two observations, Kent:
First, you're on double-secret public probation. Disrupting topics will get you banned, and you've been warned. So back the hell off.
Second, this MacBook pro won't load windows 10. So again -- back the hell off.
I was just making observations also and trying to help with spelling, be nice.
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Considering how far out of your way you're going to disrupt this thread and pick this fight, I AM being nice. Now stop.
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He's being one of those more erudite than thou types.