Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: lawries on September 06, 2015, 01:36:06 AM
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Following on from normzone,
I also seem to be getting mixed messages about dielectric grease here.
Please educate me, the good the bad and the ugly.
Dielectric grease, when to use, when not to and the why's.
TIA
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Oh now you've done it!!!!!
You're for the high jump now!!!!
Paging Mr Orwig, Paging Mr Orwig, Paging Mr Orwig, :evil:
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If you pull any switch apart you'll find some kind of grease often white or orange, which lubricates the moving parts but allows electrical contacts to make proper contact.
I just bought a tube for the first time in my life though I have fixed and cleaned many automotive switches in my life.
I went to a good Auto-Electrical workshop and asked for some of that grease that goes inside switches and they sold it to me for $14.
That's what it is and what it's for. I don't know of other applications except to imagine it would be good in connectors to keep connection but keep out dust and water. So many automotive problems are caused by poor contacts so to make your bike more reliable perhaps cleaning contacts that clip together under the tank and so on, then apply some of that grease and clip together could be a really clever way to go.
Cheers,
Dan
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The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low.
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The grease again acts as a lubricant and a sealant on the nonconductive mating surfaces of the connector. It is not recommended to be applied to the actual electrical conductive contacts of the connector because it could interfere with the electrical signals passing through the connector in cases where the contact pressure is very low.
Exactly what he said. It's not used for conductivity as it will actually interfere with electricity passing between two metal pieces. Use it where you want to keep moisture from getting in/on where you don't want it.
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:violent1:
http://hogmountain.homenet.org/Dielectric_grease.htm
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:violent1:
http://hogmountain.homenet.org/Dielectric_grease.htm
So Wayne as long as we're at it, just how do you feel about aluminum timing gears?
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So Wayne as long as we're at it, just how do you feel about aluminum timing gears?
Kip , I think that would be a question for Roper :evil: :grin:
Dusty
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Petroleum Jelly aka Vaseline on the other hand is found in the baby section of the drug store.
It's used on baby's bums to prevent nappy rash.
Petroleum jelly is also used on the sliding contacts of electrical switches, it lubricates them to prevent metal to metal wear
It's not a conductor but it stops the sliding parts from scraping away and wearing out.
Its used on battery terminals to stop lead oxide creeping between the lead post and the lugs that causes the connection to be lost/
It's used on the wires of crimp connections to stop them corroding in damp locations.
It probably outgases as well because after a few years it tends to harden and require changing.
I reckon if it;s good enough for a baby's bum, it's good enough for a Guzzi
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If you happen to take say, your old ignition switch apart, and all the contacts are corroded and green, clean it up, file sandpaper or what ever as best you can and before you put it back together smear around some dielectric grease, even between the contacts. In use then 12V will make good contact even through the grease and will not corrode again for say 10 years, at least on my T3. So the real answer is it is up to you and what ever works for you, go for it.
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Dielectric grease is good to use on your spark plug caps(inside the rubber part that contacts the insulator). It keeps the spark headed into the combustion chamber instead of down outside of the plug to ground without firing the plug. I use OX- Guard 100 to improve electrical connections. It is recommended to be wire brushed onto aluminum wire in house connections to keep the aluminum from oxidizing. I find it works well for the brass too. Don't know it it is rated for a switch contact though. Mike
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So Wayne as long as we're at it, just how do you feel about aluminum timing gears?
Just smear them with dielectric grease. That cures everything.
:rolleyes:
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My understanding is that dielectric grease is an insulator, used to keep moisture out of switches and contacts (that is, inside the rubber or plastic boots/sleeves), and not to be used on the contact surfaces themselves. I've never used it, but then I live in dry country.
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Dielectric -- lube without creating an electrical short or contact.
Use something like DeOxIT D100 to clean a pair of contacts and DeOxIT Gold to seal them and aid conductivity.
Rare these day, but there are still cheap crimp on connectors that are aluminum. If that's going onto a copper connection, there are conductive lubes at the Motorcycle Department at Home Depot designed to help older aluminum wiring in some homes.
Conductive lubes - use sparingly and with care lest you end up with more excitement than you intended.
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Aluminum wiring for a house. Let's see.... Isn't that right next to the fire starter section at Home Depot?
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Aluminum wiring for a house. Let's see.... Isn't that right next to the fire starter section at Home Depot?
Properly terminated aluminum building wire is safe...95 percent of all residences have aluminum service conductors. The reputation came from use in branch circuits in the 1970's. If used on a outlet drawing some power the wire expanded differently that the device screws and after years of this the screw termination got loose... resistance caused extreme heat and a possibility of a fire.
Usual repair is to use a copper pigtail off the device and then using a special AL-CU wire nut to make the splice onto the original aluminum wire...
Aluminum wire is terminated with a conductive grease we call "De Ox" to prevent oxidation....Howeve r the aluminum wire terminations need to be checked on occasion especially if they are passing a lot of current.
When was the last time any of you checked the terminations in your house panel including the service conductors? :police:
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Thanks [Wayne Orwig]. The link sums up what I'd figured made sense about the substance. I'd been wondering how it could be the miracle drug it's advertisers make it look to be.
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I've been following Kiwi-Roy's advise re petroleum jelly. Seems to be working for me. While I live in a dry climate, I have been getting caught in a lot of rain recently - especially as I get a few hundred miles from home.
That being said, I've been having some startus-interruptus on the LeMans (but hasn't "failed" yet - it does eventually start). Probably need to clean up and protect a few more connections.
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Might be a good idea to spend some time with the grease of your choice and do all the connection on the bike....I use the conductive DeOx on all 12 volt connections and never had a "shorting" problem. I don't believe there's enough voltage to push through the grease...
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My understanding is that a grease like NyoGel 760G is useful for preventing fretting corrosion, and common issue with electrical connectors subject to vibration. Also helps with regular oxidation.
DeOxit is wonderful stuff for cleaning contacts.
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Thanks [Wayne Orwig]. The link sums up what I'd figured made sense about the substance. I'd been wondering how it could be the miracle drug it's advertisers make it look to be.
Thank you all for your input. I feel informed.
I have used petroleum jelly for years, think I'll stick with it, cheap and plentiful [Guzzi content].
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This is an interesting discussion. Especially since I just finished installing an Endurlast alternator on the bike.
They include dielectric grease in the kit and insist that it be used on all connections. Don't know what brand, if any, since it is in a little one time use tube. Yes, I did use it on the sliding connections, sparingly. They also included those neat crimp on connectors with the heat shrink 'gauntlets'.
FWIW, I don't usually use dielectric grease, but, I do use vaseline on battery terminals after I have tightened everything up.
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Since the main reason for grease is to exclude moisture, maybe the smart way to use the stuff is to smear it on AFTER the electric contacts are plugged together. That is, slide the plastic or rubber protector back, make the connection, coat the metal bits with grease, then slide the sleeve back. WWWS (What would Wayne say?) With the crimper I use, that would be possible on most spade connections.
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Remember, a little dab will do yah!
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag77/Penderic/cfb09866-ba73-43f8-873b-4ece0d03ad8e_zpsx95jzitm.jpg)
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Since the main reason for grease is to exclude moisture, maybe the smart way to use the stuff is to smear it on AFTER the electric contacts are plugged together. That is, slide the plastic or rubber protector back, make the connection, coat the metal bits with grease, then slide the sleeve back. WWWS (What would Wayne say?) With the crimper I use, that would be possible on most spade connections.
Wayne say:
I still use a small amount of silicone grease on my spark plug caps. It helps to waterproof them and makes it easier to pull the cap off. (have you pulled a plug cap on a Stelvio yet?) But I use it in very small amounts and never near a relay or switch.
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This is an interesting discussion. Especially since I just finished installing an Endurlast alternator on the bike.
They include dielectric grease in the kit and insist that it be used on all connections. Don't know what brand, if any, since it is in a little one time use tube. Yes, I did use it on the sliding connections, sparingly. They also included those neat crimp on connectors with the heat shrink 'gauntlets'.
FWIW, I don't usually use dielectric grease, but, I do use vaseline on battery terminals after I have tightened everything up.
Probably the best thing for motorcyclists everywhere would be if the makers of this stuff would quit using techno-terminology like "Dielectric", which nobody outside the field understands anyway, and call it what it is - "Insulating Grease". Maybe people wouldn't be quite so apt to happily smear it around in inappropriate places, thinking "I haven't got just Mono Electric like the masses, I have DI-electric - twice as good!" ....
Lannis