Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: zari on September 17, 2015, 01:50:09 AM
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Hello
After replacing the parts still after several trips I feel that the. Clutch not separating smootley and I have to adjust again what could be the cause this time
Maybe the problem still there ?
Please. Help :copcar:
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If I ,adj to have a good separation then I check and see that I had no freeplay of recommended If I keep my freeplay so I do not have good separation.
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Where are you adjusting? And what bike again? Five speed V7 is it not?
Pete
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Where are you adjusting? And what bike again? Five speed V7 is it not?
Pete
[/quote
I adj the. Bottom rear adj screw. I have. Navada 750 1994
Recent post http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=70092.0
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Try re-routing the cable to eliminate tight bends.
Pete
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Try re-routing the cable to eliminate tight bends.
Pete
Please tell me by diagram or. Pic the right path (route) for clutch cable
Any way. Thanks
Zari :clock: :bike-037:
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Hmm, if you're having problems routing a clutch cable correctly on a Guzzi, I'd step away from the bike and go find a mechanic.
Seriously.
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Please tell me by diagram or. Pic the right path (route) for clutch cable
Any way. Thanks
Zari :clock: :bike-037:
Zari, I'm sorry but I don't have a Nevada handy to show you. Simple explanation? Route it as directly as you can without tight bends or kinks. The outer cable is wound in a spiral. If you put tight bends in it the coils of the spiral spread apart in the bends. When you pull the lever the force and travel of the inner cable is used compressing the spread coils back together rather than giving travel to pull the arm and engage the clutch. Gentle bends = less spreading of the coils and greater travel of the inner cable.
Pete
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Another problem I noticed is leaking transmission fluid from the area of the connection between the foot lever to the motor I saw that they have some freeplay in axis what could be the reason? And do I have to open the area of the. Gear? :bike-037:
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Zari, I'm sorry but I don't have a Nevada handy to show you. Simple explanation? Route it as directly as you can without tight bends or kinks. The outer cable is wound in a spiral. If you put tight bends in it the coils of the spiral spread apart in the bends. When you pull the lever the force and travel of the inner cable is used compressing the spread coils back together rather than giving travel to pull the arm and engage the clutch. Gentle bends = less spreading of the coils and greater travel of the inner cable.
Pete
I was check the crank bearing free play by push and. Pull. The alternator poly and got. Less then 1mm. This is normal. Are. This test show me the status of bearing condition ?
Pic at:https://picasaweb.google.com/117012899164096054821/September262015#6198698816769454610
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Your crankshaft end play is just fine then. What new parts did you put in?
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Different bike, 2003 1100, but when this happened on my bike, the clutch friction pads were separating from the spline plate and getting jammed between the plates. I could adjust the clutch, but this allowed a bigger piece to get jammed. Finally locked up and I rode 120 miles with out a dis engaging clutch.
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Your crankshaft end play is just fine then. What new parts did you put in?
Thanks john I was put all pushrode system see in this link:https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B4B-yQPVgkcZLXA2U3lkOE12dVk/view?usp=sharing :gotpics: :bike-037:
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Seems there are several issues here.
1) Mechanical ability of the OP.
2) Motorcycle mechanical ability.
3) Language barrier.
4) Pix posting ability.
Some of the barriers will be hard to overcome. In short, might be better to take it to a motorcycle mechanic or have a friend that is a mechanic do the work. Bite the bullet and pay for the work.