Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: redrider on November 02, 2015, 05:56:14 PM
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I have read the postings about the QD fuel lines but until I actually did it, I did not appreciate how utterly diabolical they were. Feel the release point? Yeah, right. Changing the air box out and chasing the startus interuptus gremlin. Those intake rubber snorkels look restrictive and the new box has moulded in drains so off with the snorkels! The Ti map might appreciate it.
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You should search the threads at v11lemans.com before discarding the air horns on the airbox.
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You should search the threads at v11lemans.com before discarding the air horns on the airbox.
Agreed. Counterintuitively, there are some dyno data that suggest it is very difficult to improve on the stock airbox WITH snorkels.
If you don't care about that and just want a little more intake noise for fun, pull the rubber snorkels (but save them).
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I'm assuming V11 Sport or some kind of variant? They don't really have status interuptus, from what I remember, but there is a bullet connector on the left side of the frame (under the tank) that needs to get cleaned. The symptoms are if you turn the handlebars all of the way to the left, it will start. Centered or to the right, it will not start.
Remove all of the pressure in the fuel tank before doing the disconnect. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4SYAS5xsUlo
I also recommend NOT removing the airbox or snorkels. I've tried it all, and the bike runs best with the stock airbag and snorkels.
Ken
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I'm assuming V11 Sport or some kind of variant? They don't really have status interuptus, from what I remember, but there is a bullet connector on the left side of the frame (under the tank)
That's right, the start relay is wired the way all Guzzis should be, direct from the battery via fuse 5, not through the ignition switch.
(http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s526/Kiwi_Roy/Start%20Problem/SimpleWiring_zpsb4c54183.jpg)
Note though the headlight relay is fed from the start relay (2 contacts in series) so you get more Voltage drop effecting the regulator.
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Thanks for the help folks. I assume the connectors are the ones coming from the clutch switch, no? Thanks for the diagram Roy. It is strange in one reply where turning the bars works. Mine makes the connection when full lock right <shrug> :wink:
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Thanks for the help folks. I assume the connectors are the ones coming from the clutch switch, no? Thanks for the diagram Roy. It is strange in one reply where turning the bars works. Mine makes the connection when full lock right <shrug> :wink:
I believe the wires come from the clutch switch, and they're close to the front of the tank. I thought I cleaned my connectors good enough this last spring, but it's acting up again. This morning, I had to turn the bars to the right to start the bike...Today is a rare 70f in Milwaukee, so I'll be riding instead of cleaning. 50f coming this weekend. :angry:
A post on it here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16711&hl=%2Bstart+%2Bbullet
Wouldn't hurt to join V11 Lemans, either.
Ken
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Already joined. I did ride in some rain sessions in the past year since first doing the connector clean so the permanent fix may be to join/splice the two together and be done with it.
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It is strange in one reply where turning the bars works. Mine makes the connection when full lock right
Mine did the same for a while but it fixed itself, it's an electricians bike after all.
I never did look at the connectors.
If you want to test it out with the tank off be sure to unplug the two ECU relays otherwise it sprays fuel everywhere, don't ask me how I know.
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Update-the bullets cleaned and all is well. Airbox replaced and snorkels deleted. The intake sounds the same to my ears but perhaps a smidgen more urge at 7500 rpm. (I had the rear break traction under hard acceleration in third.)