Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: motogman on November 29, 2015, 06:51:51 PM
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In one of the heads on my 750 motor, the exhaust valve has seen better days. I haven't pulled the valve yet to see what condition the seat is in but I thought I would see what the more experienced member here think I am looking at.
I have picked up a new valve a while back but am now getting back to the project. From experience - what do you think - will I be able to lap a new valve in or will this need a new valve seat? What else should I be looking at in doing these heads for a rebuild? How about guides - are they problematic on these motors?
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/IMG_4335a_zps71a9d731.jpg)
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/IMG_4339a_zpsee8e4237.jpg)
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It's only a guess without being able to see the seat..
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Looks like you had a feather edge with a glowing valve and detonation. Even looks like you may have a crack in the head between the sparkplug hole and the valve. Seen that before, but not on a Guzzi. Just take it apart and clean it up a bit and use a magnifying glass- Hopefully I am wrong.
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No way will a new valve lap in. Just do the right thing and get the heads serviced. New valves, K-lines and a proper three angle cut on a SERDI bench and you'll be right for another thirty years.
Pete
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I suspected that might be where I was headed.
I just tried to remove the valve but my compressor is not up to this task - it is a cheap pos.
What are K-lines? And a SERDI?
Is a three angle cut typical? Will a typical machine shop know what this is? And how to do a guzzi head? Is there anything in particular to ask for?
Is there someone on this forum to recommend sending them to?
What is a good spring compressor for doing these?
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K-lines are an interrupted scroll liner or the valve guides. As long as the guides are still firm in the head they are actually superior than the parent material as they absorb oil better and last longer. They also keep the valve concentric with the seat so that you need to remove less seat material.
SERDI is just a manufacturer and the name has become sort of generic. It's a head servicing bench that takes the hard work out of cutting seats accurately.
Most valves use the same three angles to get the seats cut correctly, any head shop will know what to do unless the are Cro-magnons in which case they won't be around very long......... :grin:
Pete
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Pete has it pretty much spot on. As far as the possible crack from the plug hole to the seat, have the seat cut out, v out and weld crack,have new seat installed and recut. We do this all the time and it is a simple operation on a Serdi>
Jack
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I checked with a couple of buddies today and the only shop they knew that did K-Lines has apparently gone out of business. I will be checking around as it sounds like a good approach.
Anybody here know of a good shop in SE Michigan (suburban Detroit area toward the west side - i.e. Livonia, Plymouth, Ann Arbor, Ypsilanti, Belleville etc.) that does bike heads and has experience with doing K-Line guide inserts?
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heads are light and shipping is cheap. Why not wrap them in bubble wrap and ship them to one of the vendors that advertises here on this forum? (no suggestions as I would not want to insult any of the good vendors by accidentally omitting them.)
You are doing both heads, right?
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heads are light and shipping is cheap. Why not wrap them in bubble wrap and ship them to one of the vendors that advertises here on this forum? (no suggestions as I would not want to insult any of the good vendors by accidentally omitting them.)
You are doing both heads, right?
Maybe Flapjack can help .
Dusty
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Picked up my heads, motor and other bits from Flap Jack at Automotive Machine in Franklin Mi today. Thanks for the introduction Dusty. Jack and his son did nice work on my Guzzi parts and I enjoyed seeing some of the bikes he has around his shop. Here are some of the results...
:evil: :evil: :evil:
My computer is hosed up... I will try to post some pics tomorrow.
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Picked up my heads, motor and other bits from Flap Jack at Automotive Machine in Franklin Mi today. Thanks for the introduction Dusty. Jack and his son did nice work on my Guzzi parts and I enjoyed seeing some of the bikes he has around his shop. Here are some of the results...
:evil: :evil: :evil:
My computer is hosed up... I will try to post some pics tomorrow.
Wasn't me , is there another Dusty ? Glad it worked out though :thumb:
Dusty
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Maybe Flapjack can help .
Dusty
Yer losing it, Dusty.. :cool: :boozing:
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Yer losing it, Dusty.. :cool: :boozing:
Well damn , anyway , no credit due , just glad it worked out .
Dusty
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Who is that masked moderator guy? Only the shadow knows....
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Who is that masked moderator guy? Only the shadow knows....
Now I'm tickled .
Dusty
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glad it worked out. Did they magna flux both heads? (Easy way to show cracks)
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glad it worked out. Did they magna flux both heads? (Easy way to show cracks)
Magna = magnetic I think.. :smiley: Dye penetrant for aluminum.
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Magna = magnetic I think.. :smiley: Dye penetrant for aluminum.
Lots of folks use "magnaflux" interchangeable with "Zyglo testing". Since Zyglo® is a Magnaflux product, it makes sense.
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what year/model, how many miles?
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Some before and after pics... nothing like 'new' clean parts...
Once again - good work by Flap Jack and his guys at Automotive Machine.
I ended up having the engine bead blasted. Question to the group - is any treatment of the aluminum warranted or just let it age in the natural state?
Before:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/DSCN6406s_zpsa5xzagtf.jpg)
After:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/DSCN6519s_zpscnszt1ju.jpg)
More after:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/DSCN6545s_zpsj0rmr3nz.jpg)
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/DSCN6556s_zpsbuwgbnhm.jpg)
The mains were not bad but on the low end of spec so decided to clean it up and get new bearing throughout...
Before:
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/IMG_5761a_zps3c8cb5ce.jpg)
After:
An after a fine grind...
(http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af200/motogman/V7Sport/DSCN6532s_zps4kzc46e0.jpg)
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Looking good gman :bow:
Dusty
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Nice work Gman. Just curious as to how you plan to preserve that shiny clean alum.
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I use some stuff called Alumaguard to protect aluminum. Some guys who fabricated leaning posts and tuna towers for boats recommended it, and I've found it to be quite good.
Rich A
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Nice work Gman. Just curious as to how you plan to preserve that shiny clean alum.
That is what I am looking for help with. It looks great now and it would seem some sort of treatment is in order but I am looking for recommendations.
I use some stuff called Alumaguard to protect aluminum. Some guys who fabricated leaning posts and tuna towers for boats recommended it, and I've found it to be quite good.
Rich A
I am going to check this out. What do others recommend.
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That is what I am looking for help with. It looks great now and it would seem some sort of treatment is in order but I am looking for recommendations.
I am going to check this out. What do others recommend.
All I do is clean with S100. Seems to do the trick.
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All I do is clean with S100. Seems to do the trick.
Me, too.. seems to do the trick. Make *absolutely sure* you rinse it all off. It's corrosive, and will do what corrosive stuff does if left on. Don't ask me how I know.
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Magna = magnetic I think.. :smiley: Dye penetrant for aluminum.
Fluorescent penetrant is so much more effective than the old dye pen, but if its all you got.... And the Flour pen kits are cheap
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I use some stuff called Alumaguard to protect aluminum. Some guys who fabricated leaning posts and tuna towers for boats recommended it, and I've found it to be quite good.
Rich A
Has anybody else tried this Aluma Guard on shot cleaned aluminum cases, wheels etc? What kind of experience with this or other aluminum protection?
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Your engine looks great :1:
I use ACF50 on bare aluminum, it is very popular in the UK, been tested and reviewed in lots of bike magazines over the years. I found it here in Canada at an aircraft maintenance supply store. Spray or brush it on and it will resist corrosion in a salt atmosphere for a year. Here in the dry west the stuff has kept the engine and wheels of my bikes looking as good as they day I cleaned them.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ACF-50-ANTI-CORROSION-MOTORCYCLE-SPRAY-PROTECTION-ACF50-/301814998278?hash=item4645936506:g:6~MAAOSw4SlV71bz