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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: willowstreetguzziguy on December 06, 2015, 11:30:48 PM
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Heat Demon makes several types of heated grip warmers that can be installed underneath your existing grips. I thought they might be a less costly / easier installation option compared to the MG heated grips. Has anyone tried these or know how well they install and keep your hands warm?
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I went to the Heat Demon web site, and they even have a seat heater.
Luckily, I was able to close the [page before my wife saw that or she would be wanting it. :thewife:
I bought some after market brand of foil heater for about $40. Put those on the Stelvio and wired them to the factory wiring. Made sure I insulated the left one. The Stelvio aftermarket foil heaters get too hot to use the high settings without really heavy gloves.
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I am on my 2nd winter season using these Lockitt Heated Glove Liners under a pair of standard leather gloves. $90 I am really happy with them:
http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/product/HCWS92.html (http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/product/HCWS92.html)
Note: Also had to buy their 5 level electric controller for $50:
http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/product/EHPL317.html (http://lockitt.com/Lockitt/product/EHPL317.html)
The good news is that they work fine with the rather weak alternator output of my 2004 Moto Guzzi Breva 750cc.
'Geezer
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I probably will go ahead and get the grip warmers and if they work well, I'll get for the seat warmer also.
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I've heard of a few people who have used them on the Sportster forum. I don't recall any complaints.
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willowstreetguzzigu y
Fitted them to my Suzuki DR650.
Easy fitting,choose what grip you would like and work really good.
No complaints.
Harry
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Installed similar setup (Dual Star) on the 1200 Sport. I used their two way switch and powered from the battery thru a relay triggered via the tail light circuit. These things are way hot on high!
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Revzilla has these Bikemaster heated grips for $53.99 including controller and free shipping:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-heated-grips?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-ZSzBRDp3ITHm5KO_JYBEiQA1JjHHPyfiwE7QBGkp2J-iBxn_urzGUzbQEKdrkEkOVJBCOkaAuPD8P8HAQ (http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-heated-grips?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-ZSzBRDp3ITHm5KO_JYBEiQA1JjHHPyfiwE7QBGkp2J-iBxn_urzGUzbQEKdrkEkOVJBCOkaAuPD8P8HAQ)
These are likely the cheapest way to get heated grips on any bike. (Red suspender content).
I have a pair on the F650GS. They work as well as any factory heated grips that I�ve used. I just finished installing a pair on my V7 Special as well.
I�ve read good things about the Oxford ones ($83):
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-premium-sport-heated-grips (http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-premium-sport-heated-grips)
One big plus that I see is the two button controller. One for up, one for down.
There are five heat settings on the controller for the Bikemasters, and only one button.
Each push of the button goes to the next higher level, and then off after the highest. To go down a level, you need to press the button five times.
If I hadn't bought two pair of the Bikemasters (the second of which has been on the shelf for a year), I probably would've spent the extra for the Oxfords for the V7; just for the two button control.
As for the type that install under regular grips, I can't see anything being any easier than just installing heated grips like the two above. I had to cut the right side grip off both bikes that I installed these on, so, there is no money to be saved with the ones that install under regular grips. Also, I would think that some regular grips might be insulating, not transferring as much heat, esp. on the left side, were the heat from the heat demon element would be conducted directly to the metal handlebar and dissipated away. Heated grips like above have the elements embedded into the middle of them, closer to the outside surface, and not directly on the handlebars.
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Thanks for the input. I'll check out these other heated grips as well.
Two questions:
1.) What temperature is the mid-point where you say, "Below _____ degrees I turn the heated grips on and above that I turn them off?"
2.) I have read that an "accessory wire" is a good place to hook-up these things. On a CARC bike like my 1200 Sport, would a wire like that be near or in the headlight housing and what color wire would it be?
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willowstreetguzziguy
Fitted them to my Suzuki DR650.
Easy fitting,choose what grip you would like and work really good.
No complaints.
Harry
Us too, time and again on various bikes, and will soon put them on the Jackal. The ready-made Oxford's I had worked very well as far as heat, but the grips themselves were terribly uncomfortable, so try to give them a squeeze before you buy. If you go with under grip heaters you'll need to insulate the left bar, the Symtecs include heat shrink for that purpose.
Sarah
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1.) What temperature is the mid-point where you say, "Below _____ degrees I turn the heated grips on and above that I turn them off?"
Well, that really depends on the gloves you use, and what temperature your hands consider cold. Also, keeping your (core) body warm does a lot to keep your hands (and feet) from being cold, as when your core is cold, the blood vessels to your extremities constrict to restrict blood flow to keep as much warmth in the core, thus your extremities get colder. When temps are below 45, I wear heated gloves and a heated jacket liner. When temps approach freezing, I add an additional insulating layer on top of the heated jacket liner so I don't need full heat to keep my core warm. When my feet get cold, I turn the jacket up on high, promoting more blood circulation to the extremities. That helps make the feet feel less cold.
2.) I have read that an "accessory wire" is a good place to hook-up these things. On a CARC bike like my 1200 Sport, would a wire like that be near or in the headlight housing and what color wire would it be?
Heated grips are going to draw around 3 AMPs, which might be too much for the accessory wire. I power mine through a relay connected directly to the battery with an inline fuse, and trigger the relay with the tail light power.
Us too, time and again on various bikes, and will soon put them on the Jackal. The ready-made Oxford's I had worked very well as far as heat, but the grips themselves were terribly uncomfortable, so try to give them a squeeze before you buy. If you go with under grip heaters you'll need to insulate the left bar, the Symtecs include heat shrink for that purpose.
I haven't tried the Oxfords, but read they are uncomfortable for bare hands. No matter to me, I always where gloves when I ride. The Bikemasters aren't uncomfortable, and have a nice grippy surface so it isn't necessary to grip the throttle tightly.
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I always used my hands to warm the grips.
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I have these on two bikes, easy install and they work great...
http://www.aerostich.com/heated-grip-kit.html
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Thanks for the input. I'll check out these other heated grips as well.
Two questions:
1.) What temperature is the mid-point where you say, "Below _____ degrees I turn the heated grips on and above that I turn them off?"
2.) I have read that an "accessory wire" is a good place to hook-up these things. On a CARC bike like my 1200 Sport, would a wire like that be near or in the headlight housing and what color wire would it be?
Re 2) - a fused output directly from the battery is probably a better way to go - or via an accessory fuse block - I don't know enough about the stability & capability of the accessory plug on the Sport, but suspect heated gear may stretch things. Besides, fault finding would be easier.
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I put the BikeMaster heated grips on my Griso (mentioned above), very nice and the grips are better than the stock units.
Then last year I sprung for Cyclegear's Hotwired heated jacket liner and glove liners. I only use the grip heaters when I forget the glove liners. The glove liners heat all around your fingers where the grips only heat the inside. Toasty grip, frozen outside. sigh.
If you can only swing one do the liners, but having both is nice.
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Thanks for all the input on heated grips. I think I will ask for the Oxford Heated Grips for Christmas because they have rave reviews and I like the 2 button controller. (up hotter, down cooler) with 5 heat settings. It also hooks directly to the battery and turns itself off after no movement.
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Maybe on some newer bikes with more wattage output this is not an issue, but when you start adding things like electric grips, gloves, jackets, etc. accessories you better have a volt or amp meter too, because unlike car alternators, most MC alternators don't have comparable watt output especially at low rpms. You can drain your MC battery real quick if you overload it in certain conditions.
For decades I've used HotGrips on my CX100 and they draw 15W or 30W depending on the setting. The CX comes with an amp/meter so I can monitor what's going on at any given time. On that bike I run the heated grips off it's blinker circuit(I think). On my MP3 scooter I've added a waterproof black Kuryakin stick-on voltmeter for when I use elec. gloves.
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Hey guys, I think Willow may have been referring to the accessory HEATED GRIPS wiring that is already in place on CARC bikes.
IIRC there are three wires under the tank, one each to supply current to the right and left grips, and one for the momentary switch that actuates power (at one of 2-3 levels) through the dash.
Personally I always found that heated grips let me use thinner gloves all the time. I might turn them on during a cool summer night or might use them with comfort down to about 40F (lower if a fairing or guards was also cutting the wind).
They are so much more convenient than wired heated gloves it's not funny, but heated gloves are so much warmer, especially below freezing.
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Kev, Explain to me about the wires under the tank, what color and how they work. I was planning on going directly to the battery as the video of the Oxford grips showed. Is it better to go to these wires and why?
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Kev, Explain to me about the wires under the tank, what color and how they work. I was planning on going directly to the battery as the video of the Oxford grips showed. Is it better to go to these wires and why?
If I understand Kev correctly, the wires under the tank use the built in control for the heated grips. All you need is a momentary push button and the heated grips themselves. The bike itself has the controller built in whether it came with the heated grips or not. The heated grip kit is just the grips and the push button switch.
You push and hold the button to turn the grips on, and then press it to cycle between three different heat settings. There is an indicator on the dash LCD that tells you which setting that you are on.
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What is the advantage of hooking into the bike's wiring and using the 3 heat settings as compared to running off the battery and using the new controller with 5 heat settings. I don't understand. Please enlighten me.
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Wire colors - I totally forget, it HAS been like 5 years or more. I probably posted a thread about the OEM grip installation.
What is the advantage of hooking into the bike's wiring and using the 3 heat settings as compared to running off the battery and using the new controller with 5 heat settings. I don't understand. Please enlighten me.
The advantage is that you get convenient ignition switched power and integrated dash control/display.
With the OEM grips everything was plug and play, no cutting and crimping or soldering.
Of course if you go aftermarket you lose some of the convenience.
But at least you don't have to wire a relay to make sure the grips can't be left on with the keyswitch off and kill the battery.
Then again, the OEM momentary switch failed on mine pretty quickly (within a year or so).
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I use overgrips. Wraps that go around your existing grips. Easy to install, easy to remove in the spring, look like crap during the winter (lots of wires and such).
I have 2 sets. Oxford hot hands, about $60, and Bikemaster, about $30. Oxfords are hotter, too hot actually. Bikemaster's are adequate. Oxfords are velcro, Bikemaster are laced.
work for me.
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Then again, the OEM momentary switch failed on mine pretty quickly (within a year or so).
I replaced it with one from Radio Shack, which, was still working when I sold it.
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Poly grip heaters. They fit in the handle bars so no wires hanging out, get real hot, I put a resister inline and cheap. I have had them on the Buell for years.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231763334509?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
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Poly grip heaters. They fit in the handle bars so no wires hanging out, get real hot, I put a resister inline and cheap. I have had them on the Buell for years.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/231763334509?ul_noapp=true&chn=ps&lpid=82
(http://www.oralcareshop.com/images/poligrip-free.jpg)
The name seems appropriate for the age demographic here. :evil:
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I installed Heat Demons on my Griso. They work well enough. I'm using the (fairly expensive) controller that you can get with the Heat Demons. The controller has 4 setting but the top 2 setting only really heat up the grips enough when I need them. I was able to mount it to the back of the front brake mounting bracket with longer screws (that was the highlight of the install). With the aluminum handlebar, I wrapped the bar with shrink wrap first to insulate it. Then after filing off the ridges on the throttle tube, I wrapped that in shrink wrap to match the diameter of the clutch side. Now I have to buy 2 sets of grips and use the throttle grips on both sides. The wires are pretty small gauge, and they give you some telephone "jelly crimp" connectors to wire them. So far though they have held up fine in the past 2 years. Nice to have heated grips for sure, although the back of your hands on a naked bike are out in the cold. I once tried Powerlet glove liners with heated grips and that was great (although the power connection for those is bulky).
An install that gave me the idea...and my notes and pictures of my install are on another forum: http://www.guzzitech.com/forums/threads/griso-heated-grips-install.5661/
I've installed Dual Star grip heaters on another bike with chrome steel handlebars. That application is better as the steel isn't a heat sink like aluminum.