Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Les P on December 11, 2015, 02:26:21 PM
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Greetings fellow followers of the Eldorado.
Can someone point out anything I have missed as I couldn't find anything online regarding the finer points of this modification.
Of course my story started with a 73 which had been run until the piston rings had not only worn through the chrome of the cylinder bore at TDC but had then worn into the alloy of the cylinder itself.
http://s30.photobucket.com/user/manurewa/library/1973%20Moto%20Guzzi%20Eldorado/Moto%20Guzzi%20Oil%20Filter%20Pan?sort=9&page=1 (http://s30.photobucket.com/user/manurewa/library/1973%20Moto%20Guzzi%20Eldorado/Moto%20Guzzi%20Oil%20Filter%20Pan?sort=9&page=1)
I had done the case/block mods as outlined in a few internet postings to suit an oil filter pan (pictures in the link above) , would it be correct in thinking that is all that is needed ?
I was going to use a later oil pump and retain the oil filter pan PRV along with a factory sump spacer plate and some form of baffle windage tray ?
Any pointers appreciated.
(http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/1973%20Moto%20Guzzi%20Eldorado/Moto%20Guzzi%20Oil%20Filter%20Pan/17.jpg)
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You do very nice work, I've seen a lot sloppier versions of this upgrade that worked fine. I only have one question, and only because i can't see it in the pictures. The threaded bearing mount hole that you plugged from the front and then drilled through, does it plug the hole inside the case as well?
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You'll need to cut off and plug the original oil pick-up or make a blanking plate to mount in it's original position if you haven't already thought of that.
I'd be wary of adding a sump spacer - Eldos already have relatively little ground clearance, adding a sump spacer will reduce that even more.
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You'll need to cut off and plug the original oil pick-up or make a blanking plate to mount in it's original position if you haven't already thought of that.
:1:
Yea, that too!
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Les P,
Nice job! I, too, followed the instructions that others (Charlie M., Greg's This Old Tractor, etc) had posted relating to adding the filter pan. I had my block drilled out by a local machine shop ($200) and made the plugs myself. I blocked off the inside oil pick-up boss by cutting the old pick-up, drilling, tapping & installing a pipe plug. I got the filter pan off of Ebay for $69 (Ed Milllich), installed a new relief spring & lapped the valve & seat and then pressure tested the relief assembly with a contraption that was similar to what Charlie had posted at TOT. Then there are the (4) pan bolt holes that have to be enlarged and corresponding holes in the pan gasket.
The whole project started as a result of the engine needing cylinders, one thing lead to another. The crank sludge trap was half full of sludge and chrome filings so, I'm glad I dug into the engine. The crank was in good condition, I had it polished and had the oil holes chamfered ($35) per Guzziology. The lower rod bearings were toast but the uppers were fine. The crank main bearings were fine too but opted for a new front bearing versus modifying the old one for the filter pan install.
Anyway, there were several other updates I've done to the engine as a result of suggestions, recommendations & contributions found at TOT and Guzziology. About the best advice I could give a do-it-yourselfer doing this scope of work would be to read & reread the loop frame info from this two sources. I'm pleased with the way it has turned out, would not have been make these improvements without the info from these two sources.
Good luck & Happy Holidays!
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...at this stage I am tempted to use gears over the 73's timing chain but that is early days yet.
Gears use a different oil pump and that would require another hole be drilled into the case and the mounting holes relocated, if I remember correctly. Nothing wrong with the chain if you use a good tensioner.
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So Charlie, what if you wanted to install a chain drive in an Ambo engine, to utilize the more available oil pump? what hoops would have to be jumped to achieve this? DonG
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So Charlie, what if you wanted to install a chain drive in an Ambo engine, to utilize the more available oil pump? what hoops would have to be jumped to achieve this? DonG
Both pumps are readily available at the moment, the timing chain pump is just 1/2 the price.
To do chain drive in an Ambo, the hole in the case that the pump shaft fits into would need to be plugged and (again) if I remember correctly, new pump mounting holes drilled. Guzzi moved the pump slightly when they went to chain from gears.
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Thanks for the info, the front bearing is also different too right? DonG
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Thanks for the info, the front bearing is also different too right? DonG
Front main bearing different no oil filter vs. filter, but not gears vs. chain.
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Front main bearing is different no oil filter vs. filter, but not gears vs. chain.
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The front bearings on the pumps are different, aren't they?
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I rebuilt an 850T engine that was running gears instead of chain. Instead of drilling a hole for the oil pump shaft they just cut it off. The mounting holes for the pump seemed to line up ok as I remember. I should check on that though because maybe the pump was modified, that case was not. In any case it seemed a bit rigged up and I went back to chain. It also had the oil filter front main bearing but one mounting hole was not being used. This was not a later 850T that had the oil filter. Actually quite a few things were cobbled together in that engine.
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The front bearings on the pumps are different, aren't they?
Yes, the gear drive pump has no bearing as such, the shafts just run directly in the oil pump housing. The chain drive pump has a "stack" of two needle bearings on the "input" shaft (the one the sprocket goes on) and the driven gear shaft runs directly in the oil pump housing.
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You can buy this complete kit from Renzo's Speed Shop
http://www.ebay.de/itm/MOTO-GUZZI-Olfilter-Umbau-SET-V7-Modelle-/161640576072?hash=item25a2877448