Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Vagrant on January 25, 2016, 09:33:42 AM
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new 2015 won't get here until 2/12-14 but 3 days later I will need to do the 600 mile service and I will put on heated grips first.
how long are the grips seeing as now it appears there are 3 different lengths available?
7/8 bars I assume.
head torque I understand is 30-31 with a fifth bolt for the breather or oil drain? needing 18?
does the rear end really need 90/140? I have always used Mobil 1 in the lighter weight 85-90 I think in the past 8 or so Guzzi's.
from past posts and my weak memory I think the book was wrong or poorly written with the quantities so fill the transmission and rear end to the level hole?
engine oil to 1/2 way mark with bike level?
thanks. Steve
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Mobil-1 gear oil is available in both 75w90 and 75w140. I'd go with the recommendation of the heavier in the box.
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new 2015 won't get here until 2/12-14 but 3 days later I will need to do the 600 mile service and I will put on heated grips first.
how long are the grips seeing as now it appears there are 3 different lengths available?
7/8 bars I assume.
Congrats on your new V7!
The bars are indeed 7/8. The grips are 4 3/4" long.
As for the heated grips, there have been several threads on aftermarket heated grips, including this one that started with a question of the heated wraps that you put over your regular grips vs. installing heated grips.
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=80472.5 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=80472.5)
There are actually three options (plus heated gloves), the wraps, heaters that you put under regular grips, and replacement grips with built-in heaters.
IMHO, the replacement grips with built-in heaters are a better solution than the under grip heaters. One big problem with the under grip heaters is that the left one will have a lot of it's heat sinked away buy the handlebar, since it is directly on the bar, and not a plastic throttle tube. They typically make the left one draw more power to compensate, but, reviews say it still isn't enough. The full replacement grips have the heating elements close to the out surface than the handlebars and do not suffer from this.
My post from the other thread copied here for convenience:
Revzilla has these Bikemaster heated grips for $53.99 including controller and free shipping:
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-heated-grips?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-ZSzBRDp3ITHm5KO_JYBEiQA1JjHHPyfiwE7QBGkp2J-iBxn_urzGUzbQEKdrkEkOVJBCOkaAuPD8P8HAQ (http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/bike-master-heated-grips?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=Cj0KEQiA-ZSzBRDp3ITHm5KO_JYBEiQA1JjHHPyfiwE7QBGkp2J-iBxn_urzGUzbQEKdrkEkOVJBCOkaAuPD8P8HAQ)
I have Bikemaster heated grips on both my F650GS and V7 Special. They work very well.
These are likely the cheapest way to get heated grips on any bike. (Red suspender content).
I've read good things about the Oxford ones ($83):
http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-premium-sport-heated-grips (http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/oxford-heaterz-premium-sport-heated-grips)
One big plus that I see is the two button controller. One for up, one for down.
There are five heat settings on the controller for the Bikemasters, and only one button.
Each push of the button goes to the next higher level, and then off after the highest. To go down a level, you need to press the button five times.
If I hadn't bought two pair of the Bikemasters (the second of which has been on the shelf for a year), I probably would've spent the extra for the Oxfords for the V7; just for the two button control.
As for the type that install under regular grips, I can't see anything being any easier than just installing heated grips like the two above. I had to cut the right side grip off both bikes that I installed these on, so, there is no money to be saved with the ones that install under regular grips. Also, I would think that some regular grips might be insulating, not transferring as much heat, esp. on the left side, were the heat from the heat demon element would be conducted directly to the metal handlebar and dissipated away. Heated grips like above have the elements embedded into the middle of them, closer to the outside surface, and not directly on the handlebars.
If you ride in temps below 40, I recommend use of hand guards/shields in combination with the heated grips for best results. They are ugly, but effective. I have a pair of Barkbuster Blizzards on my BMW F800GT:
http://www.twistedthrottle.com/blizzard-universal-fit-cold-weather-handguards-from-barkbusters (http://www.twistedthrottle.com/blizzard-universal-fit-cold-weather-handguards-from-barkbusters).
In my experience, this provide much better protection than the plastic Stormbusters I had on my Breva 1100, or the stock ones on the F650GS.
These hand guards + the factory heated grips (on the F800GT), and "Strength & Steel" (one of Cyclegear's brands) thinsulate insulated gloves keep my hands nice and comfortable right down to, and a little below freezing.
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does the rear end really need 90/140?
Only if you want to keep the warranty valid.
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I never rely on level holes on small blocks. Measure the quantity and put it in. Big risk on small block 5 speed gearboxes of under filling. When properly filled my Breva 750 is well above the level plug this is also somewhat true although less so of the rear box on my bike. I tend to always measure quantities, less chance of mistakes.
Brian
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the dealer says the transmission the 5 speed anyway takes 16.8 oz. the owners manual says 33 oz. dilemma #1. there are two lines in the owners manual for the spec on the oil for the transmission. one says 90/140 and the second line says 90 neither specifies which transmission. great fun.
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the dealer says the transmission the 5 speed anyway takes 16.8 oz. the owners manual says 33 oz. dilemma #1. there are two lines in the owners manual for the spec on the oil for the transmission. one says 90/140 and the second line says 90 neither specifies which transmission. great fun.
"Transmission" = final drive
"Gearbox" = transmission.
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The single throttle body V7 takes 3 different oils:-
Engine - 2 liters of 10w60
Gearbox - 1 liter of 80w90
Final Drive - 170ml of 85w140
VascoDG did a set of comprehensive instructions on the head retensioning on the newer V7's not too long ago - torques, spanners & all. I'll get the link for you once I get back home tomorrow, should you still need it.
When removing the rocker covers, use a really good,tight-fitting Allen key/hex socket - those 4 bolts each side tend to round out much too easily. Also note that the drain plug on the final drive especially is easy to strip - the metal of the cover is pretty soft stuff, and cross-threading is all too easy (don't ask me how I know).
You are in for lots of stunning fun. Enjoy.
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great and thank you for the research. if it's not a simple 1234 on the torque I would love Pete's article. does that mean I had better get an extra rocker gasket also.
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"Transmission" = final drive
"Gearbox" = transmission.
This is IMPORTANT!
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I replaced my valve cover bolts with stainless steel ones after 3 out of 8 rounded out while using good tools.
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I replaced my head bolts with stainless steel ones after 3 out of 8 rounded out while using good tools.
Do you mean the valve cover bolts ?
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great and thank you for the research. if it's not a simple 1234 on the torque I would love Pete's article. does that mean I had better get an extra rocker gasket also.
At the top right side of your screen is the search tool. With a simple query you can find out nearly everything you need to know. In the process you'll get an education.
A lot of people went through a lot of trouble to post the information, it is just sitting there waiting for you.
Just saying.
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I couldn't find the original post, but I did copy out Pete's advice - refers to the 1TB heads.
"to re-torque the heads on a smallblock.
What you'll need is a 17mm socket, a 10mm allen key socket, either a long one or a 3/8ths drive one and an extension and a 12mm deep socket, also preferably 3/8ths drive.
The rocker support studs have 17mm nuts, the outer two sleeve nuts are 10mm allens and the top/inner stud has a 12mm nut.
17 &10mm allens are 30-32 ft/lbs. 12mm nut is 20-22 ft/lbs."
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Here's a guide I wrote for re-torquing the V7. The "new" style engine may vary a little.
(double click on the photos for the comments)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548)
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Here's a guide I wrote for re-torquing the V7. The "new" style engine may vary a little.
(double click on the photos for the comments)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157627672086548)
the tools are no problem but where do I find a helper like that?
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You have to go downtown for that Steve
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Where do you get these stainless steel rocker cover bolts?