Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: not-fishing on February 25, 2016, 11:58:32 AM
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I'm working my way through "polishing out" a V50 I picked up a few weeks ago.
My carb troubles fix are on hold until I get new (K & N) cone air cleaners. I was having dogging, stalling, coughing and problem. When I tried the manometer I wasn't getting any real reading so I punted and went "shade tree". The idle was just a screw adjustment to bring it up to around 1100 rpm from 900 rpm. Then the throttle problem became a 1/4 to full "dogging". A couple of days ago I took the V50 out for a series of test rides (air cleaner on then air cleaner off to verify rich or lean). The air cleaner on went poorly so I pulled the side covers, then the battery, then the right side air cleaner and when I got to the left side I couldn't find the air cleaner. The attaching ring was clamped to the carb but the cone was gone. well not really gone just rolling around on the top of the tranny When I checked the "good" air cleaner much of the wire mesh had torn away from the metal attachment ring. I'm hopeful that putting on a decent set of not-cheap filters will correct my jetting problem.
Next up for correction was the (lack of) instrument lights. I found this shop and they are great. https://www.superbrightleds.com/ You do have to educate yourself on what type of lights to buy but my results have been very good. I picked up a set of 7 ea 74whp cool white mini-wedge bulbs and installed them with a little sandpaper work on the contacts. The results are amazing. My indicator lights really "pop" now even in full sunlight.
(https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/timthumb.php?h=210&q=76&src=https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/74-whp0.jpg&w=210&zc=2)
For the gauge lights I purchased a pair of WLED-WHP: Cool White. The total bill was $25.
Now I just have to order a special halogen for the headlamp because it's got a goofy positioning base at less than $20 and save my pennies for these turn-signal/brakelights which run $15 each. I need 6
(https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/timthumb.php?h=210&q=76&src=https://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/1157-led-bulb-dual-function-45-smd-led-tower-bay15d-retrofitjpg.jpg&w=210&zc=2)
For those needing indicator lights I recommend looking at these.
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I use LEDs the same color as the lens they'll be shining through, not white. <shrug>
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Yes, that is a characteristic of LED to get the best color; and that's to use the same color as the lenses it will be shining through. I used the same site to grab a few LED bulbs for my G5, and they are great and very helpful if you ask a question (they are the ones whom recommended the LED color to match the lenses for best results).
I ended up just doing the Turn signals for my dash. I wanted to keep all the others "toned down" so they wouldn't be beaming at my eyes at night. For the turn signals, I do think it is a must for sure as they are pretty much useless during the daytime with the factory bulbs.
Also, be sure not to use an LED for the charge bulb otherwise the charging system won't work. This is true for the G5, SP, etc., and I think it may be true for your model as well. Hopefully someone else can pitch-in on that.
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Also, be sure not to use an LED for the charge bulb otherwise the charging system won't work. This is true for the G5, SP, etc., and I think it may be true for your model as well. Hopefully someone else can pitch-in on that.
Rat's! You mean now I have to go in and change that bulb out again? Well I'll just have to figure out if it charges with the led first. Luckily I have a decent multi-meter. I wonder what Guzziology says...
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I think there is a "crack" out there where you can put a resistor on that circuit to equate the load of the 3W factory bulb, but I think you are not charging at this point....
Edit: 1.2W - not 3W
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I use LEDs the same color as the lens they'll be shining through, not white. <shrug>
Correct, if you use a white LED with a colored lens, you will lose a lot of brightness.
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On my 84 V65SP I had to use a regular bulb for the charge bulb. Tried the LED, but did not work.
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Hey Fishing,
Did you get my message about the throttles? Lots o pictures.
(http://i305.photobucket.com/albums/nn233/shawnsci/IMG_1629_zpstqcvqssd.jpg)
If not, let me know.
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Hey Fishing,
Did you get my message about the throttles? Lots o pictures. If not, let me know.
Thanks -- I did, I might spend a little more on the Biltwells for a metal throttles tube but that's a couple of steps away.
Today the K& N's came in. I've been using them for decades so I knew more or less what to do. One thing I noticed is that the clamp placement has to be right near the edge of the filter throat to catch the carbs correctly and the clamp orientation has to be right for ease of use.
Again I did a "shade-tree" ear-tune and the bike ran a lot better one my short shakedown in the dark. This weekend I'll try the manometer and see if I can balance the carbs correctly. Geez -- the V50 feels really small after my Griso commute today
I checked the charging during idle and was showing 14.6-14.9 volts so the led's must not effect the charging in small blocks. I'm going to keep an eye on the charging. I really don't want to solder in a couple of resistors.......
Further research in led's and loads concerning blinker relays convinced me not to change the blinkers to led's. I don't want to have to mess with the resistors.
I figure my next purchase is going to be the $200 optical trigger for the points. I used an optical 3 decades ago and found they made the engine run a lot better. Then I'll go to the metal throttles.
(http://www.motorcycle-ignition.com/images/newtronic/newtronicbox.JPG)
More Guzzi"adventures in motorcycling" which is really good for my Zen. :thumb:
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I checked the charging during idle and was showing 14.6-14.9 volts so the led's must not effect the charging in small blocks. I'm going to keep an eye on the charging. I really don't want to solder in a couple of resistors.......
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I wonder what makes this one different. Either way, if it works it works!
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I wonder what makes this one different. Either way, if it works it works!
All the "Positive Waves" I've been sending out to the little Goose??
There may be an advantage to a 35 year old wiring loom with questionable connections. Then again it might just be the regulator never turns the charging off in the small block.
:bike-037:
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Hmmmm. Strange. As far as I know, the charging system on the small block is same same as the big block. <scratching head> I would have thought it wouldn't charge, either.
Oh, well. Some things aren't meant to be understood.. :smiley:
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Lights aside why don't you change the jetting with jets :huh:.
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I'm still working on the jets. After putting a real filter on the V50 the running of the engine has improved immensely. I believe the owner that "restored" the V50 had the jets pretty close to right. Now my chore is to balance the carbs, ride the V50 and see how the fueling feels.
Doing the lights was just a concurrent repair.
Tomorrow I should have a better "Idea" on the fueling. It could be as simple as raising the needle.
Yet, without a spark I can really trust I'll probably only get the fueling roughly correct.
If you have a problem with fueling look at the ignition........... .
Mark
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A 20 mile test ride and still major problems with carbs.
Pulled out the manometer, ran a test and right side runs plenty of vacuum yes I swapped the manometer tubes -- to make sure it wasn't the gauge
Now I've placed an order with Harper's for a pair of intake manifold gaskets, no use buying just one at less than a buck.
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Check your Carb rubbers aren't split too.
I run K&Ns on my V50 Monza (PHBH Carbs) and as you have point i am guessing you have a v50iii also with PHBHs.
If so, i went to 55 pilot jets, raised the needle one clip (the lowest slot onthe needle) and 125 mains. Runs sweet as a nut.
I also did the Dyna S iginiton to dump the crappy points.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/chris900ssie/sets/72157664838650636
Chris
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Wow thanks for the information! :thumb:
Yes the V50 III is running PHBH. The carb rubbers look new. I pulled the intake manifold on the bad side and found 1 1/2 gaskets. Don't ask me why I cleaned all the old gasket material off intake manifold and took the dremel with a light polish to the casting ring on the inside nearest the carb. I didn't take the ring off only the sharp edge. I tend to be a coward when it comes to using a dremel aggressively on intakes or guns. Just a little to smooth it out.
Now that the left carb is free I'll check the sizes of the jets to see if they are stock and needle clip position. Then I can order more parts -- if need be.
I'm leaning toward the C5 ignition now because it's 'Merican and works on tractors.
Thanks for the pics that's one gorgeous Monza. and you're controls gave me some ideas for next year
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Pretty sure the DYNA S is american too, tho' i could be wrong on that. Was a breeze to fit and good value for money.
The Tomaselli/Domino quick throttle i only fitted last weekend. I got fed up with needing to grab a second handfull to get the throttle fully open. It is now HALF what it was so i am looking forward to the weather pearking up enough to let head out.
The switch i had in my box of left over Ducati bits (they are on Ebay all the time for pennies), half an hour of soldering some new wires and it was done. I also replaced the crappy 80s connector for a modern waterproof AMP one.
I have had the old girl apart over winter, broken shift return spring. Never have i had to do so much work to replace such a cheap part. Easy work but dropping the engine and gearbox, then stripping the box completely to replace a 5 euro spring ... well, i hope this one lasts another 70,000km.
Chris