Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Dobermann on February 26, 2016, 01:40:04 AM
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Greetings everybody!
Here is a video of the bike running with Sachse ZDG3 electronic ignition. Once we figured out what we think is the best advance curve it came alive.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79oh_Uy6d3U (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79oh_Uy6d3U)
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Nice
Here was mine on an early start up
https://youtu.be/-G5zCu5UkEA (https://youtu.be/-G5zCu5UkEA)
I too had a bit of a problem finding the right curve, but I got it sorted with advice from the folks on here. Mine runs a PuReg combined Reg/Rec and ignition triggers, the actual box lives under the seat.
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Wow, $400 for my little V50, I'll probably just stick with points. Ho braccia corte :laugh:
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Wow, $400 for my little V50, I'll probably just stick with points. Ho braccia corte :laugh:
A Dyna S ignition is much less expensive.
http://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=37_157&products_id=1598
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Nice
Here was mine on an early start up
https://youtu.be/-G5zCu5UkEA (https://youtu.be/-G5zCu5UkEA)
I too had a bit of a problem finding the right curve, but I got it sorted with advice from the folks on here. Mine runs a PuReg combined Reg/Rec and ignition triggers, the actual box lives under the seat.
Old Jock I would like to thank you again. Maybe you remember or not but you helped me alot with your m-unit wiring diagrams and knowledge. Thank you!
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Helped a few people over the years with the M-Unit.
No need to thank me a pleasure to help another Guzzi enthusiast out, especially if it contributed in some small way to the stunning end result.
I'm glad
1) The info was useful
2) That you could decipher it in the first place :wink:
Your machine look absolutely gorgeous, tastefully done and also a first rate build.............. ......all I can say is Wow!!!!! :bow:
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worth every penny, thats what i have on the mighty V7TT
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GREAT looking Guzzi :bow: :bow:
Cheers
Jim
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Be careful with holes in the ignition cap/cover. it needs half a year to figure out why my guz running strange on warm weather... :violent1:.
Solution some bright sunbeam find its way reflected from the chromeexhaust through the extra cooling holes.... and irritated the beam sensor
cheers
and the ZGD is worth every penny
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Thanks for the advice. Nice find. :) I was going to get a drilled cover...
But now I better stick with my current cover. It does not have halls. I've putted two cooling flanges.
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What number curve did you settle for?
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What number curve did you settle for?
On my LM 1000 I'm running curve 4 if it helps
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On my LM 1000 I'm running curve 4 if it helps
my v7tt likes curve 5 for best overall drive and curve 7 or 8 for max top end power
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Also curve 5 for my LM2.
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On my LM 1000 I'm running curve 4 if it helps
So John, from the pictures it appears to have a different optical sensor for each cylinder, since it is operating at crankshaft speed presumably it sparks each rotation. (lost spark)
Or does it still use the distributor?
How does it take care of spark advance?
Is it normally set for the beam to break at the advanced position then delayed with a microprocessor?
Does it fire when the beam is broken or when it's made?
What are the curves you speak of?
Curious minds need to know.
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Stefan, great looking bike. The indicators look familiar. I have them on my old Honda ST 70 DAX.
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Thank you Thorsten. Yes they are Honda indicators with a little polish.
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So John, from the pictures it appears to have a different optical sensor for each cylinder, since it is operating at crankshaft speed presumably it sparks each rotation. (lost spark)
Or does it still use the distributor?
How does it take care of spark advance?
Is it normally set for the beam to break at the advanced position then delayed with a microprocessor?
Does it fire when the beam is broken or when it's made?
What are the curves you speak of?
Curious minds need to know.
Heh Roy, howya?
It has 2 sensors one for each cylinder and yes it fires the spark once every revolution, so wasted spark.
However just to elaborate (or bore) the collective, there is a lot of talk about wasted spark being a VERY bad thing on the Guzzi engine configuration and yes it can be less than desirable. This is when in a wasted spark setup you have one sensor on a 1/2 engine speed rotor, this means the wasted spark fires when the other cylinder requires a spark for ignition. This can be bad as the RH cylinder will be receiving the spark on the induction stroke which can cause ignition and subsequent blowback through the carb (via the open inlet valve). Usually no more than a burp during riding but at idle RPMs can lead to you "cooking your goose"
With the double trigger on an engine speed rotor (as the Sacshe has) the wasted spark occurs close to the top of the exhaust stroke vastly reducing the chance of any form of blowback.
It no longer requires the distributor and mine is removed a cover plate covers the gap where the distributor once sat.
Spark advance is calculated via electronics in a box, the triggers are set to zero advance by moving the rotor to get the correct timing, the advance is then taken care of by the magic box. I think that answers 2 of the questions no?
On the electronics box is a rotary switch for advance curve selection.
The triggers are activated on beam disrupt i.e. when the rotor disrupts the beam, so on advance edge. When setting it up initially you move the rotor and an LED on the board (you can see them on the videos on posts 1 & 2) lights.
Curves are below
(http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad355/Old_Jock/Guzzi/ZDG3%20Advance%20Curves_1_zpsaia48ocy.jpg)
For Twin plugged bikes
(http://i951.photobucket.com/albums/ad355/Old_Jock/Guzzi/ZDG3%20Advance%20Curves_2_zpsrdaly4vq.jpg)
John
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Great explanation, John.
Also recently Sachse started producing a distributor mounted ignition pick-up.