Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Cool Runnings on February 26, 2016, 03:20:42 PM
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Installed KD lowering pegs today! :thumb:
40 F and sunny........ :boozing:
1st ride of the new year, Carhartts and all. :shocked:
RUSSELL RULES! :popcorn:
Well,,,,,,,,,, with the KD lowering pegs and Custom Russell, it's a different bike. It's simply wonderful. :gotpics:
(http://i67.tinypic.com/2qcjugy.jpg)
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2cgep9w.jpg)
Side stand mod for now.
(http://i64.tinypic.com/20sf981.jpg)
(http://i64.tinypic.com/294rvnl.jpg)
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Okaaaay, now that it has 101 miles on it, are you going to remove the stickers on the tank or are you leaving them there in case the FJR thing crops up again? :evil:
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Compliments on the color choice for the seat. The Russel seats often look like beached whales sitting on top of a motorcycle but your choice of color sure makes it look good. :thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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You are onto something. That seat color is fantastic. It smooths the lines out and really does something for the Norge. Even the stock seat would look good in that color.
Alright, we need a picture of it somewhere other than the parking lot or you didn't ride it. :wink:
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Okaaaay, now that it has 101 miles on it, are you going to remove the stickers on the tank or are you leaving them there in case the FJR thing crops up again? :evil:
Oh shit, forgot about them stickers. :thewife:
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You are onto something. That seat color is fantastic. It smooths the lines out and really does something for the Norge. Even the stock seat would look good in that color.
Alright, we need a picture of it somewhere other than the parking lot or you didn't ride it. :wink:
Don't have a selfie stick, put on about 5 miles. :boozing:
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Very nice looking!
How well do the stock toe pegs work with the lowered foot pegs? Did you swivel them around to their lowest positions?
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Very nice looking!
How well do the stock toe pegs work with the lowered foot pegs? Did you swivel them around to their lowest positions?
Jeff, stock toe pegs seemed to work, they are swiveled to lowest position. Tomorrow is suppose to be 55 F and sunny. Going to put on proper clothing and go for a spin. Will put on some miles tomorrow. Still need to watch out for shaded wet areas (possible ice).
NOTE: The Russell moved me upright way more, won't need a lower windscreen. :boozing:
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watch out for sand and salt on the roads!!
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watch out for sand and salt on the roads!!
Yeah. Going pretty easy, maybe down the parkways with a little high speed run on the freeway.
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As for the stickers, they do come off with a hair drier, a little elbow grease, some paper towels, WD-40.
Use the hair drier to heat the edge of the sticker you are removing. Don't burn anything (or your fingers), but warm the edge of the sticker as you peel it back with your fingers and thumb nail. Once you have removed it, use a paper towel moistened with WD-40 to remove the glue residue.
The stickers are made of fragile, crappy plastic. They will break into 50 pieces as you try to remove them. Keep at it with the hair drier and your fingers. You will succeed, but it will take you and hour to remove the nearly dozen stickers from the tank and the panniers.
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CR,
What's the deal with the side stand?
Jon
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Hey CR....if you get tired of that seat, send it to me, I'll even pay the shipping :grin:
Looks more comfortable than my Sargent!!!!!!!! I put about 150 miles on my white 12 Norge yesterday in 37 degrees, but sunny.
Enjoy......Tim
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Bike shops have really good sticker remover these days. Blot it on, stickers come off.
I used to go with the microwaved damp rag (avoids the potential of scorching the plastic tank with a hair dryer) , slooooowly peeling the stickers off. Last few times, the sticker remover from the bike shop takes care of it. Takes a few minutes.
The DUCK brand remover does the trick. Works very fast. Apply, wait a few seconds and peel up a corner. Apply a little more and the sticker comes off.
Do check for compatibility though, as with anything.
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I waited until a warm day in Phoenix, peeled off just fine. :grin:
Not sure it gets that warm in Mpls.
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Sensational looking bike. Well done!
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CR,
What's the deal with the side stand?
Jon
With the Knight Design lowered foot pegs, the foot of the US-spec side stand hits the underside of the left foot peg. Inserting something into the joint, where the side stand swings on its hinge, will keep its foot away from the foot peg.
Me, I just let my side stand hit. The foot peg vibrates a little, but I wear rubber-soled boots, so it is not bad.
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Another example of a sport/touring bike that doesn't spend much time leaning in curves. Instead it spends most it's time on straight roads. :bike-037:
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Wow
What a seat.
That would be ideal for my Griso when the wife is on the back.
Then put on the original when solo.
Nice looking ride.
Harry
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The Russell seat is the best long-distance comfort seat available for any bike.
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I guess I'll sound a bit like Kev M here: define "best"?
I've owned several Russell seats and almost half of my SplitWeight(tm) seat cover customers own them. There's no question that they are extremely comfortable and one of the top choices for Iron Butt riders. That says a lot.
However, the very thing that makes them so comfortable hinders them as a choice for many All-Rounders (Tiger 1050, etc) and Sport-Touring bikes (Norge and similar). It's a bit challenging to get higher levels of body lean as the wings present an impediment to a degree. While this may not be important to some its a big time concern to others. Here's an example: geography plays a part. Customers in the WV mountains use BMS saddles over Russell, so they tell me, as there is plenty of opportunity to shift to the inside there all day. I experienced this myself on a Tiger 1050 that I owned for 5 years.
So, all that said I'm not sure matters to a huge group of riders. It will matter to some and is something to consider when shopping for a custom saddle. Again, just trying to share what I've learned from over 1000 custom seat owners I call KoF customers.
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I have a Russell on the Griso - makes long rides very tolerable now. Stock seat, for me, was a butt killer.
A buddy has a white Griso and the brown Griso SE seat looks so good on the white bike it makes you wonder why they didn't do it for the white bike too. I have a cafe seat made for riding the Griso to coffee (maybe should have saved my money, I prefer riding the CB1100 to coffee..... :grin: ), looks much better than the Russell and while much better than the stock seat for sitting, not nearly as good as the Russell. If I'm touring on the Griso, hanging off is not considered - well - I don't do it anyway. Public roads in general are not to be trusted, so the wings are not a problem. For me.
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So when you put the seat on did it increase the amount of inseam required? Some of us that are inseam challenged would like to improve oon the stock seat but without raising the sitting position.
Jim
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I totally understand not hanging off on a public road. The wings make it hard to also shift the inside cheek over as needed.
The Russell Sport seat is, for many more active in the seat riders, a good compromise.
Yes, it's possible to improve on a seat without changing the reach for the rider. We do that often.
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So when you put the seat on did it increase the amount of inseam required? Some of us that are inseam challenged would like to improve oon the stock seat but without raising the sitting position.
Jim
You send them pictures setting on the bike on the pegs and another picture with your feet on the ground. They also need, inseam, waist size and weight (driver and pillion if you ride two up). Then you send them your seat to be reworked. Thinking spring and summer you may wait a couple Months. You also have an eight Month warranty for further alterations...
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With the Knight Design lowered foot pegs, the foot of the US-spec side stand hits the underside of the left foot peg. Inserting something into the joint, where the side stand swings on its hinge, will keep its foot away from the foot peg.
Me, I just let my side stand hit. The foot peg vibrates a little, but I wear rubber-soled boots, so it is not bad.
May need toe peg lowering kit, going to wait till the new boots are broken in. They are kind of stiff yet and have missed some shifts.
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Bike shops have really good sticker remover these days. Blot it on, stickers come off.
I used to go with the microwaved damp rag (avoids the potential of scorching the plastic tank with a hair dryer) , slooooowly peeling the stickers off. Last few times, the sticker remover from the bike shop takes care of it. Takes a few minutes.
The DUCK brand remover does the trick. Works very fast. Apply, wait a few seconds and peel up a corner. Apply a little more and the sticker comes off.
Do check for compatibility though, as with anything.
NP, may need your riser bars fix! :boozing:
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I totally understand not hanging off on a public road. The wings make it hard to also shift the inside cheek over as needed.
The Russell Sport seat is, for many more active in the seat riders, a good compromise.
Yes, it's possible to improve on a seat without changing the reach for the rider. We do that often.
The Russell I ordered was for touring and I wanted max comfort. Today I put on about 100 miles, it's not sport seat, at my age I need Goldwing comfort. :evil:
Russell gave me max comfort as I can hardly get my feet on the ground at stop lights. That's ok with me. Hips, knees and feet don't work like they did at age 50.
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I am impressed with the hose clip on the side stand! :thumb:
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Knight Design lowering foot pegs ( 1 1/3")
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2cgep9w.jpg)
Ordered one toe peg lowering kit, will test on shift lever. Missed a few shifts going up through the gears and had lift my entire foot in order to downshift. Rear brake lever didn't seem like much of an issue, still had to lift entire foot in order to apply bakes. KD lowering toe pegs are sold individually. $61 each including shipping. May order one more for rear brake after testing shift side.
Not sure how they attach?
(http://www.knightdesignllc.com/images/Motorcycle/Toe%20Pegs/Lowered/With%20Pin/Silver/Lowered-Toe-Peg-Silver-600h.jpg)
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Knight Design lowering foot pegs ( 1 1/3")
(http://i63.tinypic.com/2cgep9w.jpg)
Ordered one toe peg lowering kit, will test on shift lever. Missed a few shifts going up through the gears and had lift my entire foot in order to downshift. Rear brake lever didn't seem like much of an issue, still had to lift entire foot in order to apply bakes. KD lowering toe pegs are sold individually. $61 each including shipping. May order one more for rear brake after testing shift side.
Not sure how they attach?
(http://www.knightdesignllc.com/images/Motorcycle/Toe%20Pegs/Lowered/With%20Pin/Silver/Lowered-Toe-Peg-Silver-600h.jpg)
First, remove the circlip that holds the toe peg on the shift lever. It is on the back side of the shift lever. You can use a small flathead screwdriver to do this.
Next, use an allen key to remove the hex bolt at the front of the shift lever. This hex bolt keeps the toe peg from rotating.
Then, use a larger flathead screwdriver, at the front of the shift lever (where you just removed the hex bolt), to pry open the jaws of the lever that hold the toe peg. Wiggle and remove the toe peg with your other hand.
Now, reverse the steps with the new toe peg. (You may not need to use the large flathead screw driver to fit the new toe peg into the hole between the jaws of the shift lever; you may be able to wiggle it into place.) Make sure to attach the new circlip to the new toe peg.
Done!
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Jeff, got any pic's on final assembly?
Thx's 4 the install tips.
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Also took my 2011 Norge out for 1st ride of the year here in Eastern Washington after being rollerized last month.
I synced the throttle bodies and reset TPS with Guzzdiag. All went smoothly. I really appreciate the knowledge gleamed from this forum.