Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: malik on March 04, 2016, 04:28:56 PM
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I've been accumulating minor problems - gearshift return spring broken, a bend somewhere in the centrestand that was inconvenient, the kickstand falling down under way & operating the engine cutout all by itself, but a slipping clutch couldn't be ridden around, so the bullet was bitten. And as I now have a place to do it in (7 of us got together to rent an industrial unit),and some sterling assistance, there's no excuses.
Rear wheel off, bevel box off
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2467.jpg)
With the swingarm up out of the way, access to the clutch operating arm is possible
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2470.jpg)
Swingarm off - straight-forward - elegant engineering there, I thought
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2476.jpg)
Disconnect whole loads of stuff, cables, sensors, electrics, throttle bodies (a real struggle with the TB to airbox rubber manifolds, eventually conquered), support the engine, loosen mounting bolts
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0547.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0548.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0550.jpg)
Lift the frame up & over, one by one undoing the half dozen connections we'd missed, & wheeling the frame away - no way I could have done this alone.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0553.jpg)
leaving behind one motive unit
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0551.jpg)
the engine was looking a bit grimy after 120,000km & 5 years
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0556.jpg)
but cleaned up marvelously
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0557.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0558.jpg)
the bell housing came off easily - looks a bit red in there, and damp with a film of oil, but comes off black on the hand & rag
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0561.jpg)
the flywheel/chain ring off & clutch disc out - to be taken to someone who knows more for assessment
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0569.jpg)
and the steel faces show an interesting mottling
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0567.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0570.jpg)
We took it slow & steady, with adequate supplies of coffee, tea & beer, constantly referring to the advice of those who had gone before us (thanks, guys), and have managed to get this far in only a couple of days.
Now need to find the circlip pliers (they are around my place, somewhere) and borrow/organise/fabricate the special tools to undo the locknut on the spline, the long allen keys for the gearbox innards & see what replacement parts are needed. So far, so good. Getting close & intimate with your favourite ride is really a lot of fun - but then we haven't tried getting it together yet, so it's still early days.
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Looks like a nice workshop. :boozing:
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Labors of love are the best..... :thumb:
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Been there, done that on the Breva.
Warning, the nut on the mainshaft MAY be done up to about 10million foot/tons. :rolleyes:
My "special" tools were made up from an old socket fitted to a long piece of steel with a crank in it to clear the case, and the spline tool from the centre of an old burnt out clutch, again with a long handle welded on. (and I am talking long)
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no way I could have done this alone.
Sure you could. You could probably do it the next time. :smiley:
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What year is your V7C, and how many miles on it? Inquiring minds want to know!
Bob
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120 K times .61 gives you 73000 miles.
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Well done, and good use of the chair!
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Mal, that sort of discolouration is pretty normal. You can probably get the faces ground but be aware it may shorten the life of the next clutch.
They're in stock in Sydney $105 to you, retail is $120. Probably cheaper overseas but do the sums on postage.
Pete
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120 K times .61 gives you 73000 miles.
Kent, thanks. I didn't see the mileage figure that was in the post. That mileage is about the same as when my R100GS rear main seal failed, soaking the clutch, causing it to slip.
Really nice post on what is required to make the clutch repair on a dry clutch shaft drive bike.
Bob
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Been there, done that on the Breva.
Warning, the nut on the mainshaft MAY be done up to about 10million foot/tons. :rolleyes:
My "special" tools were made up from an old socket fitted to a long piece of steel with a crank in it to clear the case, and the spline tool from the centre of an old burnt out clutch, again with a long handle welded on. (and I am talking long)
I'd been saving that Nick Webb article with the contributions from you and NolaGuzzi for just such an occasion. As I said, inspirational - & the humour didn't hurt at all. What's your favourite tipple? I'll bring something along for you next time I fly to Christchurch (where the Sport lives).
I've sourced a socket at the local bearing place for $20, but it will be an impact socket, so I'll have to take it to someone with a serious drill if I need to have it bored out. The verdict on the clutch plate is that it would be better to replace it, so I have the start of a spline grabber. I'll be checking out a friend's special tools for the big blocks on Tuesday to see how he's made them up & go from there. Just around the corner from the Shed is a scrap metal merchant, a constant attraction. Have already picked up some lengths of gal pipe for use as levers/moment arms, so I'll be looking for some steel bar next week, along with the 8 m of angle iron we will need to fab up a stand for the stainless parts washer (500x500x200mm with drain hole & perforated grate) we found on Friday.
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Good job. I congratulate you. 73,000 miles on the clutch, eh? That's a good data point to have.
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my record is 4hrs ride in , new clutch , ride out....
make sure the rear thrust bearing is in good condition , pref cable tie the clutch arm to the clutch cable mount, if the bearing fails and you start the engine you will end up with a mushroom ended push rod welded to the centre of the flywheel.... i speak from bitter experiance
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Ouch! That sounds nasty. My thrust bearing is worn. Even before I took it out to check, I'd bought a new one - the outer body was recessed. The push rod looks good - the hardening is still there, but I'm uncertain about the cup, and those tiny filings of fresh metal were worrisome, so I'm getting a new one of those too...... while I'm in there.
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from what i found the push rod and cup have not changed much from the mk1 v35 back through to the last 5 speed v7 stone .
I used a v7 stone push rod and cup when i rebuild my monza powered v35, it had a spiral machined into it that forced a little oil or grease round the end of the rod and cup. deff worth upgrading if yours has the older smooth ended push rod.
Have got the welded rod as a souvenir , ill dig it out and post a picture!
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Mine has the spiral groove - 2010. When I get to tear down the 2002 Nevada I'll check it's one too. (The Nevada has a holed crankcase and its frame is needed for a Breva, but that project has to wait until this one is up & running).
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I have to say I am envious of you for having the :shocked: :shocked: to tackle that. I would love to do it too someday when the time comes but I am so afraid of screwing up. I have been institutionalized by dealerships into thinking only they know what they are doing despite the fact that I know better. Anyways, well done, good reference point and I look forward to seeing how you get on putting this all back together.
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120 K on the little beast. Impressive!
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I'd been saving that Nick Webb article with the contributions from you and NolaGuzzi for just such an occasion. As I said, inspirational - & the humour didn't hurt at all. What's your favourite tipple? I'll bring something along for you next time I fly to Christchurch (where the Sport lives).
This could be dangerous! :grin:
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Nah! Baggage limit is 23kg.
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Nah! Baggage limit is 23kg.
23kg of Glenmorangie is a fair bit! :shocked: :grin:
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Thanks for the pictures. OK, you've got 73,000 miles on it--are you planning to check the valves or maybe re-condition the head? Or have you decided the valves are ok as is?
I'm curious how long we can expect the valves on a modern small block to last. Can't seem to get a good answer.
I seem to recall that on the BMW airheads, you would start thinking of a valve job around the 75,000 to 100,000 mile mark. But for all I know, BMW airhead valve service intervals are not comparable to a modern Guzzi, which may use different materials, better lubrication, different design, etc.
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Thanks for the pictures. OK, you've got 73,000 miles on it--are you planning to check the valves or maybe re-condition the head? Or have you decided the valves are ok as is?
I'm curious how long we can expect the valves on a modern small block to last. Can't seem to get a good answer.
I seem to recall that on the BMW airheads, you would start thinking of a valve job around the 75,000 to 100,000 mile mark. But for all I know, BMW airhead valve service intervals are not comparable to a modern Guzzi, which may use different materials, better lubrication, different design, etc.
Swede,
When I put in big bore pistons to my V7 at 5k miles, I freshened up the valves. They weren't worn, but had accumulated a surprising amount of deposits. And that's with using Tier 1 gasoline all the way.
Joe
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Thanks for the pictures. OK, you've got 73,000 miles on it--are you planning to check the valves or maybe re-condition the head? Or have you decided the valves are ok as is?
I'm curious how long we can expect the valves on a modern small block to last. Can't seem to get a good answer.
I seem to recall that on the BMW airheads, you would start thinking of a valve job around the 75,000 to 100,000 mile mark. But for all I know, BMW airhead valve service intervals are not comparable to a modern Guzzi, which may use different materials, better lubrication, different design, etc.
Apart from the clutch & air/fuel issues, the bike has been running well - no change in the tappet gaps, consistent fuel consumption, so at present further plans for more tear-downs, at least until after the upcoming trip (and hopefully not during it). After, say, 200,000 km perhaps. Otherwise, if it ain't broke ..... But I'll check what I can closely.
The air/fuel issues - I had been experiencing some missing/surging on constant throttle around 4,000 rpm. On my bike this was usually fixed by cleaning the air filter, but not recently. Once the throttle bodies were removed I could the filth inside, with a film of oil. So a clean out there, and the airbox, then a re-balance & TPS set, (let's keep the learning curve steep) will hopefully solve that problem too.
While organising & waiting for the special tools to be finished & a few more parts to arrive, I've been cleaning & preparing. More to do, but other commitments have slowed to impetus. Expect to be back on the boil Monday.
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:popcorn: :popcorn: :popcorn: Bump
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Thanks for the pictures. OK, you've got 73,000 miles on it--are you planning to check the valves or maybe re-condition the head? Or have you decided the valves are ok as is?
I'm curious how long we can expect the valves on a modern small block to last. Can't seem to get a good answer.
I seem to recall that on the BMW airheads, you would start thinking of a valve job around the 75,000 to 100,000 mile mark. But for all I know, BMW airhead valve service intervals are not comparable to a modern Guzzi, which may use different materials, better lubrication, different design, etc.
FYI - I ran my R100GS out to 128,000 miles, not kilometers, on the OEM valves, guides, and valve springs. That may be more miles than most Beemer owners push their heads. I replaced the components with Black Diamond valves and guides, BMW springs. I'm now at 147,000 miles. Now, how close were my valves to failing ..? ....... I don't know. I have pics of the intake and exhaust valves, and to me, the valves look beat. But they ran just fine.
(Note) I've owned this bike since new, so I have the complete service history on it.
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Found the circlip pliers (for a wonder they were where I thought they were supposed to be) & removed the clutch cup & the sprung plate.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2504.jpg)
The special tools arrived. The socket had been topped & bottomed by one of the guys in the complex ($50) and the welder took the request the make them long to heat & this is what we got ($50)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/Special%20Tools/IMG_2535.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/Special%20Tools/IMG_2542.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/Special%20Tools/IMG_2536.jpg)
Here's a pic of the tools in situ - we found it easier to have the gearbox on its side, and use the floor to rest the spline tool. After de=peening the nut, it came off easier than expected.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/Special%20Tools/IMG_2533.jpg)
A few taps with the hammer & the bellmouth came off easily
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2545.jpg)
To remove the nut on the main shaft, the clutch shaft was removed from the bellmouth, inserted into its usual place & help with the spline tool. This nut also had to be de-peened.
The bolts on the rear cover were removed, the eccentric screw marked & removed & the neutral indicator removed.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2551.jpg)
Then the fun started - the rest of the day was spent trying to separate the rear cover from the central cover, tapping, hammering, belting, swearing, resting, wondering, rabbitting on, more swearing, then it got to beer o'clock & a plan was hatched - Bring a bigger hammer tomorrow.
Next morning, armed with the big rubber mallet, tapping all around the gasket and around & around it slowly & gently released itself.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2558.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2559.jpg)
Like Nick, Muzz & Nola, we also read the Guzzi manual & avidly watched the Guzzi video again & again, "but there is no way in hell" to remove the selector plate without undoing ALL the bolts securing the gear castle to cover & lifting the selector drum. We tried. There seems to be 2 or 3 more bolts (5mm) than Nick, Muzz & Nola mention in their Breva article, but they are obvious. Fairly warned by these guys, we had tried unsuccessfully to source the necessary long-handled t-bar 4 & 5mm allen keys - until we asked a neighbour -"use my guy", he says, "here's his number". Phone call duly made - "got just the thing - in stock at the warehouse. I'll drop them off tomorrow for you" And up turned the 2 t-bar allen keys, 200mm long with ball joints, made by Bondhaus. $20 each. And the balls were a very tight fit & at 200mm they all went in straight. Easy when you have the right tool.
So with the selector plate out - there was the rest of the offending article.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2566.jpg)
The other half of the spring had been loose inside the gearbox for 35,000km & other than the break, not a mark on it.
The new spring went on easily - we followed the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT6VAm0jJiY), and the reassembly commenced. An inordinate amount of care was taken to ensure that the selector plate, the spring & the eccentric screw were properly aligned. We believe we got it right.
The old gaskets were removed & the case surfaces cleaned (takes longer to do than say), bolt threads cleaned, and the covers bolted on. The nut on the main gearshaft had only a little bit left for peening, but enough. The nut on the clutch shaft had loads 3.5mm - don't know whether it was the new seal, or the special tools with long arms fooled the Nm guage in the wrist, but it looks good.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT6VAm0jJiY)
And so here we are - progress. Next it the clutch & the mating of the two parts.
(https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rT6VAm0jJiY)
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A couple of photos seemed to have been lost. I find them interesting, you may too.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2577.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2579.jpg)
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The inside of that box looks pretty black. Perhaps because mine has been apart a couple of times it has not had time to go black. :undecided: :rolleyes:
That is the first spring I have known to have broken on the smallblock box Mal.
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ALL the boxes are coated black both outside & inside. We figured that Guzzi paints/coats the cases before machining the mating surfaces. In the bell housing the black has turned a little brown, elsewhere in the gearbox all is the same colour as the outside.
Thankfully broken gearshift return springs seems to be uncommon. I have come across it before on the interweb. I think Johnny at Motociclo may have done one, but not sure. There would have to be some, because there's at least one video. There's a lot of work involved to replace a $5 part. I glad I had another reason to go at least as far as the clutch - well the gearbox almost - that pushrod oil seal was looking a bit ratty and that lives in the rear end of the clutch shaft. If the spring hadn't been broken I wouldn't have gone any further. My education would then still be sadly incomplete & I wouldn't have had the excuse to acquire those 2 proper allen keys. When I have to do something with the gears, it will be a lot less daunting. Come to think of it, the 1100 Sport's clutch slips a little & it has that fifth gear whine ......
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Nice photos. Interesting about the black paint. I guess it serves a purpose.
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When I have to do something with the gears, it will be a lot less daunting. Come to think of it, the 1100 Sport's clutch slips a little & it has that fifth gear whine ......
You're a tiger for punishment! :shocked:
Funny that they paint the inside of the box on the later models when they never used to. :rolleyes:
edit; Bondhus stuff is pretty good. It was the only brand I was allowed to stock in the retail side of the engineering place I worked at. The owners reasoning was that the apprentices were not tempted to go cheap and nasty when the bought hex keys. They wear quick and tend to chew out what they were used on.
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......... Interesting about the black paint. I guess it serves a purpose.
I have noticed a lot less aluminium corrosion, or I haven't noticed any corrosion, or significant discolouration, of the motor, unlike some other unpainted engines. Probably a bit of a help in those places that like to salt their roads. Maybe the inside coat is in fear of what chemicals are "they" going to add to oils next week? Whatever, it works.
Productive day - clutch on - new sprung plate (or whatever the italians call it - don't think I've found it called the same thing twice), new clutch disc, cup, rod & thrust bearing. The whole back half is now buttoned up to the engine. Move the frame back on it tomorrow.
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Thanks again for this. I love these threads and study them obsessively, no doubt hoping that one day my future self will have the courage to do similar work on my high-mileage Stone.
Please don't hesitate to post more pictures, pictures of the tools, links to other sources of info, etc. you have an audience here!
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I did a slightly different take on the "clutch" tool I made. I found a short piece of pipe offcut (cheap = Guzzi content) that happened to be just the right size and welded the clutch centre on to that, then welded a bit of flat on to the other end and bolted the handle on to that. Just meant that I did not put a crank in that particular handle and the business end could be easily shipped somewhere if someone else needed it.
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That was thinking ahead. Well done.
A few shots from yesterday:-
the sprung plate before torque
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2584.jpg)
The "slot" (I'd call it a notch) on the "engine flywheel" on the sprung plate/driven plate that the chain ring aligns to. Yes, I had trouble too - it's in the middle of the photo at the edge of one of the plates.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2585.jpg)
the sanded chain ring
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2586.jpg)
the mounted clutch
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2587.jpg)
pushrod & gubbins in, all set to go
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2588.jpg)
And joined. (That's the holed Nevada in the background - its frame is destined for the Breva).
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2590.jpg)
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Lookin' good Mal. The black c/case & gearbox look good. Mine of course is the silver paint.
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Very frustrating day yesterday! Mating the frame to the engine block, all went well until we got to the throttle body manifolds! Haven't been able to get the airbox manifolds on. Pushed, shoved, help & poked, sqeezed & swore. Nothing doing. A little rubber grease on the lip of the airbox manifolds enabled them to be pushed into the airbox past the big concertina. Found the trick in getting the throttle bodies to line up to the inlet manifolds - put on the small rubbers on the metal inlet ports - lower the throotle body assembly to the block, putting the rod under the overhang of the airbox and come up from the bottom (otherwise the throttle bodies appear to overhang the manifolds by a good inch or 2). But try as we might, we can't deform the rubber on those airbox manilds enough to get the big concertina out of the airbox & onto the lip.
So we gave up. Decided to leave it for Ron (Later on) & proceeded to do stuff we could. You CAN get the neutral light sender clip over its contact. You CAN get the blade connector onto the oil pressure sensor, but you do need two sets of hands working from each side of the bike, and long fingers. And patience.
Clutch is connected & adjusted. Gearshift linkage is connected to its spline (Just re-read some stuff and may have missed the thrust washer). The swing arm is now on, but not tightened up - I thought there should have been instructions on this - and found them last night.
So at least we have some progress. But the manifolds await.
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The saga continues.
You may be familiar with the problems had with the rubber manifolds (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=82444.0), that was solved. Well, from there the bike went back together pretty swiftly & was ready to ride Friday. OoPs, difficult to get into third gear. That wasn't right. Tinkered a bit & attended to cosmetics on Saturday. While adjusting the gearshift linkage, I saw the the selector shaft that pokes out of the gearbox had play in it - moved up & down with the gear lever. That didn't look right at all. Sought advice on Sunday, found that adjusting the eccentric cam could tighten it up a little, but still not rigid enough. Something wrong in there. "Did you move up & down through the gears before you bolted it back onto the engine?"" I didn't know you could, or how to do it". Though it now seems obvious.
So later Sunday afternoon, it looked like this
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2646.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2648.jpg)
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2647.jpg)
Today, we get to use the special tools again & find out what we did wrong - "who is this WE, Kemo Sabe?".
At least we are getting a lot quicker at taking down the bike - an afternoon, instead of three days. Augurs well for the future projects.
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"Did you move up & down through the gears before you bolted it back onto the engine?"" I didn't know you could, or how to do it". Though it now seems obvious.
That is actually quite difficult to do. Spring is quite strong. I tried before I threw mine together but could not do it reliably.
Not quite sure how you could get movement on the shaft by doing something wrong. :undecided:
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Thought I'd take a short-cut, there's an unused gearbox in the holed Nevada, isn't there. And all the gears worked at standstill. So yesterday we stripped the Nevada, cleaned the gearbox, then tried shifting the gears - not much resistance & hard to isolate the gear changes, BUT spinning the shaft produced strange noises & notchy feelings. Feels like the bearings are suspect. Will try to get an expect opinion, but not looking good. So much for short-cuts. It seemed a decent idea at the time. The written off Breva may have been a better choice - at least it runs OK.
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I seem to remember that there are three bearings in the box that are not particularly standard, though two of them were not hard to find. the one that 5th gear runs on is a particular Guzzi one; held me up for a year trying to locate it. Everyone was out, and Guzzi refused to even sell Pete R. one! :rolleyes: Work that out! The rest of them are run-of-the-mill.
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Going to take a raincheck on examining the insides of the suspect gearboxes -
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_0726.jpg)
now that the gearbox borrowed from the Breva (2007 model with 23.000km) is installed (but not yet tested).
After a couple of frustrating days putting the V7C back together - this time things did not go as smoothly as last time - we are almost there
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2669.jpg)
Another frustrating annoyance - put the rear wheel back on, and found the rear brake would no longer work! Worked fine a couple of days ago. Flushed the fluid, replacing it with new & still not working if the caliper is mounted. Works while disconnected though, but not while on the rotor. A mystery! The only explanation I can come up with at present is that perhaps the rotor is too worn? More investigation is required.
An observation: the Breva bits were surprisingly clean & shiny. The drive shaft was pristine - unlike those in the V7C, the Nevada or the V7S. O the Breva, the gap in the spring that holds on the rubber boot over the uni joint on the swingarm was positioned at 12 o'clock, rather than at 4 or 8 o'clock. Perhaps that makes a difference. Or maybe the Breva never saw rain or wet roads.
The plan today is to solve the rear brake mystery, change the oils & try out the new gearbox.
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Adjusted the clearance on the brake rod to the master cylinder, cleaned up the caliper, pistons & pin, and voila! She works. Fitted the remaining muffler changed the oils.
The Breva gearbox doesn't look out of place
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2676.jpg)
Took it for a ride around the block - all OK. Rode it home - all OK.
(http://i1138.photobucket.com/albums/n538/hatihati/2016-03%20V7C%20Clutch%20repair/IMG_2673.jpg)
Yesterday took it out for a 240k test ride. Nothing fell off. The neutral light occasionally dims & cuts out, only to return. It did that before - may be a poor connection in the wirining. The accessory power take off at the front doesn't work, but when I tidied up the accessory wiring with a Termin8 from Powerlet, I didn't check out that circuit. The clutch is working well, the gearbox is fine - the linkage less sloppy as I've upgraded the standard studded rod end, to modern plan rod ends. A real pleasure to ride.
Some tweaking to do before setting off on the trip (proposed for a Thursday departure); suspension sag, handlebar & footpeg position, check that the heated glove liners work, that sort of thing. I don't think the metal tank conversion will be sorted in time - in at the painters at present, but a fuel pump has yet to be sourced.
It's been a great experience, couldn't have done it without the assistance of sterling friends (and a relative, cuz). And I'd do it again.
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I love it when a plan comes together.
Fine effort Mal. :thumb: Enjoy your trip.