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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kiwi Dave on March 06, 2016, 02:06:15 PM
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I'm trying to remove a snap ring retaining the small self-aligning bearing in the eyelet of the CARC on my 1200 Sport. If it was a normal circlip it would be manageable, and it is my intention to replace it with a circlip for easier future removal.
I'm reluctant to attack it with a TIG welder as suggested to me, the bearing is only 26mm diameter, it's rather tight in there. Currently the CARC is still attached to the bike, but I can remove it if necessary.
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I gotta ask. Were you using snap-ring pliers?
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I gotta ask. Were you using snap-ring pliers?
No, I didn't know they existed. What do they grab on the snap ring? If I ever get the existing ones out, my plan is to replace them with circlips that my circlip pliers will fit.
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Dave? I can't work out what you're describing. Any chance of a pic?
Pete
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No, I didn't know they existed. What do they grab on the snap ring? If I ever get the existing ones out, my plan is to replace them with circlips that my circlip pliers will fit.
One type of snap ring pliers set. http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-snap-ring-pliers-set-92374.html
There is also one set that has interchangeable tips with one set of pliers.
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I'm thinking Kiwi Dave is talking about those SOBs that don't have any holes in them. <shrug>
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Here's a photograph I took with my mobile.
(http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w233/Guzzigander/Mobile%20Uploads/Circlip%20in%20CARC%20Housing.jpg) (http://s177.photobucket.com/user/Guzzigander/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Circlip%20in%20CARC%20Housing.jpg.html)
you can see the ends of the snap ring at the bottom at about 7 o'clock. It spins around when I try to pry something under the end to lift it out of the grove. Tough to get two very thin instruments in to hold one end while I work on the other. Diameter is around 26mm.
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It's out! I managed to pry the snap rings out using a bit of brute force. The remainder of the bearing was relatively easy to draw out with a couple of appropriately sized sockets and some threaded rod.
Can anyone tell me why I shouldn't use normal internal circlips in their place? Obviously, they will intrude into the internal space a little more than the snap rings, but I believe as long as I don't intrude any more than 16mm (the diameter of shoulder on the tophats that mount on both sides of the self-aligning bearing), then everything will be sweet.
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Hey There KD, I,m thinkin' your on the right track for future ease of maintenance and if the eyes on an internal ring protrude too much the also make a spiral type ring that's a lot easier to get out. Bearing house will have them. https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-spiral-retain-ring-int-1-716-in-whm-143-s02/i/G1600304/?gdffi=047ada (https://www.zoro.com/value-brand-spiral-retain-ring-int-1-716-in-whm-143-s02/i/G1600304/?gdffi=047ada)
Paul B :boozing:
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My experience with snap ring substitutions (limited to Sanke kegs, granted) is that diameter dimension compatible parts often vary in thickness. Measure and modify if appropriate.
As for the engineer behind that snap ring, design crime charges should be filed.
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Sorry wrong advice. Forgot about those rings. Those are hard to remove.
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Glad it worked out. I wouldn't of been any use anyway as I've never had that bushing out!
Pete
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I use mechanic's picks. One to keep the bugger stationary and another to finagle under the other edge. The little curvy twisty one usually works for me.
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I use mechanic's picks. One to keep the bugger stationary and another to finagle under the other edge. The little curvy twisty one usually works for me.
I used pick tools as well. The trick is to approach as you describe. When you lift the snap ring, you need a third hand to slip another pick tool under it, so it don't go back in. Since I didn't have a third hand, I managed to to transfer both pick tools to one hand, and use the other hand to perform the operation that the third hand was required.
If you get my gist.