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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: boatdetective on March 11, 2016, 10:46:04 AM

Title: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: boatdetective on March 11, 2016, 10:46:04 AM
Hey there- I will be attending a seminar in Big Sky in the middle of June. I was wondering if anyone here can give some advice for what I really must see/do. Of course, renting a mc would be cool (most likely a Harley out of Bozeman). I'm going to be right near Yellowstone- so I figure that will be the real priority. In any case- let me know your thoughts. The advice that I got here for riding in New Mexico was EXCELLENT.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: rocker59 on March 11, 2016, 10:50:07 AM
The obvious recommendation would be Yellowstone, but June is peak tourist season, and it'll be PACKED !

But, I might be tempted to check out Yellowstone anyway, if I didn't think I'd be back again.  You could enter at West Yellowstone and check out some of it.  If you leave out the northeast entrance, you could ride Beartooth Pass.  US-212.  Pretty epic...


I like old west history, so there's Bannack Ghost town.
http://www.bannack.org/
http://stateparks.mt.gov/bannack/

130 miles west of Big Sky (via some gravel).  175 miles on pavement.  It's a place that's on my list, though I've not been there, yet.
Google Map Link (https://www.google.com/maps/dir/Big+Sky,+Mt/Bannack+State+Park,+Beaverhead+County,+MT/@45.3029256,-112.6538643,82057m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m14!4m13!1m5!1m1!1s0x53500e65fd372c35:0x95f8713baa8b2bca!2m2!1d-111.3080244!2d45.2617806!1m5!1m1!1s0x5359fb87190b0d23:0x50dd456903e284de!2m2!1d-112.992021!2d45.1606808!5i1)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Guzzistajohn on March 11, 2016, 10:58:13 AM
Haven't been to Yellowstone but I did get to see glacier. It was absolutely awesome!
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: rocker59 on March 11, 2016, 11:07:09 AM
Haven't been to Yellowstone but I did get to see glacier. It was absolutely awesome!

Yellowstone is really nice.  I stayed a couple nights there at Old Faithful, back in May 2003.  The week before Memorial Day weekend.  We beat the crowds, and though a lot of gates were closed, we got to see some awesome/beautiful scenery.

The problem with any National Park in June is that you're in the middle of peak family vacation time and they're all crowded.  If you can get past that, and maybe pick some more remote parts, I guess it wouldn't be too bad.  Yellowstone NP is huge, and the crowds are kind of concentrated in certain areas, such as Old Faithful, the falls, and the lake.  But if you skip over some of the obvious stops, it might not be to horrible to run from West Yellowstone to Beartooth in June.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: old head on March 11, 2016, 11:11:35 AM
Yellowstone is awesome

dont' forget Jackson Hole, Jenny lake, and the Grand Tetons.

Old Head
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Cool Runnings on March 11, 2016, 11:53:50 AM
Check out Butte. Unless it's been rehabbed, there's some pretty cool historic buildings left.

(http://www.eddysmotelbuttemontana.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/800px-Butte_uptown.jpg)

(https://theroadtriphound.files.wordpress.com/2013/07/dscn2351.jpg?w=700&h=525)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Cool Runnings on March 11, 2016, 11:54:45 AM
Haven't been to Yellowstone but I did get to see glacier. It was absolutely awesome!

Going to the Sun Road!  :thumb:

(https://photos.travelblog.org/Photos/102422/437881/f/4279444-Jammer-on-the-Going-to-the-Sun-Road-0.jpg)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: PeteS on March 11, 2016, 12:39:23 PM
Probably one of the best rides in the country, Hwy 212 Beartooth pass and Chief Joseph Hwy. You can do a loop from Cody to Chief Joseph to Beartooth Pass to Red Lodge and back to Cody. Check out the Buffalo Bill museum in Cody. Huge firearms and western art collection. The east entrance from Cody into Yellowstone is spectacular.

Pete
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Two Checks on March 11, 2016, 12:47:27 PM
Cooke City is fun. There is Hebgen Lake, formed by an earthquake.

The run to Virginia City is fun, with all the towns mentioned along the way.
Ennis is where the movie, "A River Runs Through It" was filmed.
And when in Yellowstone whe you see a sign that reads "do not approach animals" be prepared to stop! That's where everyone stops to approach the animals!
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Wayne Orwig on March 11, 2016, 03:06:45 PM
Beartooth Pass.
Beartooth Pass.
Beartooth Pass.
Beartooth Pass.
And Beartooth Pass.

I would say Glacier National Park, but mid June the going to the Sun road will likely still be closed. And probably too far out of the way.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on March 11, 2016, 03:46:34 PM
Uh.. Beartooth pass.  (Do I hear an echo in here?) :smiley: With any luck at all, I'll get to do it again on the way to the nationals.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: LowRyter on March 11, 2016, 04:06:52 PM
If you have a place to stay, by all means go through Yellowstone.  High traffic but the views, wildlife, and geysers are incredible. 

Now I haven't been there since the early 80s and haven't seen place since the fires but I am sure it's worth seeing until the volcano blows. 

If you have a place to stay, rent a bike and explore.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: boatdetective on March 11, 2016, 04:40:19 PM
Beartooth Pass.
Beartooth Pass.
Beartooth Pass.
Beartooth Pass.
And Beartooth Pass.

I would say Glacier National Park, but mid June the going to the Sun road will likely still be closed. And probably too far out of the way.
You are right about glacier- too far.    Beartooth looks EPIC!!

I've got to figure out doing the seminar in Big Sky- going back to Bozeman to rent a bike, then circling back down through the park. I gotta see that road from two wheels.

Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on March 11, 2016, 05:03:42 PM
You are right about glacier- too far.    Beartooth looks EPIC!!

I've got to figure out doing the seminar in Big Sky- going back to Bozeman to rent a bike, then circling back down through the park. I gotta see that road from two wheels.

Trust me. And Wayne. And PeteS. The ride from Cody to Chief Joseph to Beartooth to Red Lodge is *not* to be missed if you have the opportunity. It's well worth going out of your way to do.. maybe the finest ride in the country.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: boatdetective on March 11, 2016, 05:30:01 PM
Trust me. And Wayne. And PeteS. The ride from Cody to Chief Joseph to Beartooth to Red Lodge is *not* to be missed if you have the opportunity. It's well worth going out of your way to do.. maybe the finest ride in the country.

It's already decided, Chuck. Nice shop in Bozeman is considering adding motorcycles to the rental fleet and may get V strom 650s. Perfect!

Man- am I excited!
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: oldbike54 on March 11, 2016, 05:33:58 PM
It's already decided, Chuck. Nice shop in Bozeman is considering adding motorcycles to the rental fleet and may get V strom 650s. Perfect!

Man- am I excited!

 Hell Jonathon , I'm excited for you  :laugh: Did anyone mention Beartooth Pass ? :rolleyes:

  Dusty
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: PJPR01 on March 11, 2016, 06:27:35 PM
Yeah...Beartooth... definitely Beartooth from Cody via Chief Joseph is a top notch run!!  Heartily recommend that route as well!

The ride in from Livingston to the North Entrance is also a nice ride thru Gardiner...any road there is going to be fun!!

(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p257/PJPR01/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7701_zpskqfcqoqr.jpg) (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/PJPR01/media/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7701_zpskqfcqoqr.jpg.html)

Glacier and Yellowstone - not to be missed if you can get to both...take a few extra days and ride around...it's heaven!!!

(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p257/PJPR01/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7710_zps3l0lsemi.jpg) (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/PJPR01/media/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7710_zps3l0lsemi.jpg.html)

(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p257/PJPR01/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7841_zpscfansunr.jpg) (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/PJPR01/media/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7841_zpscfansunr.jpg.html)

Going to the Sun - not a bad road to ride!!   :grin: :grin::
(http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p257/PJPR01/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7879_zps8oycqdlt.jpg) (http://s130.photobucket.com/user/PJPR01/media/GRIT%20Rally/IMG_7879_zps8oycqdlt.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Wayne Orwig on March 11, 2016, 06:28:10 PM
It's already decided, Chuck. Nice shop in Bozeman is considering adding motorcycles to the rental fleet and may get V strom 650s. Perfect!

Man- am I excited!

I've been over Beartooth pass, three times now. All in early July I believe. In 2014, July 4th, they were still snow skiing on top of the pass. But the road was clear. I can imagine that in June, it could be more questionable. I'm sure that Chief Joseph highway into Cody would be open, and worth a visit, even if the top of the pass is a problem.

I was in Yellowstone once in a car, and the entire trip all I could think about was how nice it would be to be 'exposed' to everything on a motorcycle (or at least in a convertible). I hated that trip. I've been back three times by motorcycle. Forget Old Facefull, it is a tourist trap. There will be a few hundred Asian tourists holding big tablets up in front of you getting pictures. (what is up with that?) Plan to spend more time in Norris Geyser Basin.

Top of Beartooth Pass July 4th, 2014. On the south side of the mountain, they were still snow skiing.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee208/worwig/publicshare/20140704_115424.jpg)

If you are in the Jackson / Cody Wyoming area, and get a chance to get a Packo's IPA, DON'T.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee208/worwig/publicshare/20140702_193138.jpg)

July 5th, 2014. Going to the Sun Rd, Glacier Park. The road had just opened.
(http://i235.photobucket.com/albums/ee208/worwig/publicshare/20140705_151906.jpg)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on March 11, 2016, 06:38:03 PM
Quote
Norris Geyser Basin.

Thanks for that.  :thumb:
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: PeteS on March 11, 2016, 06:57:29 PM
My first trip on Beartooth was in July of 1972 on my Norton. About halfway up from Red Lodge it started to rain. Visibility was maybe a couple of hundred feet. Then near the summit it started to snow. Gear back then was primative with a thin leather jacket and cheap plastic rainsuit. We ended up stopping in Cooke City and got a room with a wood stove to dry our stuff. Three subsequent trips were glorious with warm temps and clear skies. Snow in July is a possibilty for sure.

Pete
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Boulder Ed on March 11, 2016, 07:55:37 PM
Check out Butte. Unless it's been rehabbed, there's some pretty cool historic buildings left.

There are hundreds if not thousands of people in Butte that need rehab.  Not a place to visit anymore... 
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Boulder Ed on March 11, 2016, 08:03:18 PM
I used to live in Missoula.  I would skip Yellowstone due to tourists and slow speeds and not all that scenic amid the traffic.  You will get 50 cars watching a duck cross the road, or a rabbit.    My money is on going up 90 towards Missoula then up towards Glacier.  Or do highway 200.  You can do Glacier through Going to the sun road then out the east side towards St Mary's, then go south and around the bottom of Glacier.  It is beautifully forested as well, unless it has burned since I sold my place in 2008.  You will find lots of nice places to ride up there.  Highway 12 out of Lolo is considered one of the best roads in the western US for bikes.  Take it way down into ID and then wander back on it.  Stop for lunch at the Lochsa lodge about an hour out of Lolo.  If you have time, go visit the Big Sky Brewery in Missoula.  They have the best IPA in the world when it is fresh off the tap.  Still probably the best in a bottle if you can find it :-)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: rboe on March 11, 2016, 08:09:04 PM
Another vote for Glacier (but I'm a wee bit biases, my favorite place). Going to the Sun road is best done west to east. Lunch at Johnson's Cafe in St. Mary.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Spuddy on March 11, 2016, 08:24:45 PM
It depends how much time you have and if you want to put some miles on.  Way east of Yellowstone, Routes 14 and 14a in the Bighorns (north central Wyoming) are fun.

I could go on but there are a lot of back roads west of Yellowstone that will give you the taste of rural Idaho and Montana.

Spud
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on March 12, 2016, 05:19:03 AM
Quote
Highway 12 out of Lolo is considered one of the best roads in the western US for bikes.  Take it way down into ID

 :thumb: 99 miles following the Lewis & Clark expedition. It's hard to go wrong when you're following rivers.. :smiley:
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: rboe on March 12, 2016, 09:25:39 AM
Unless the road is under repair. The road that goes through Big Sky into Livingston (191) a few years back, had some construction bits - what a mess. No detours because; well, you had these damn big mountains on either side so you were on the only road going there!  :evil:

Still in the wrong direction, but Highway 2 that goes across the top of the state is one heck of a ride as it skirts Glacier on the southern border. Once you pass the divide it seems like you are going down hill forever.

I have not spent any time in northern Idaho, but from the front range west, from Canada to the Tetons, one could spend several summers exploring.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: rboe on March 12, 2016, 09:29:34 AM
I have not been on the road since the late 70's but 16 in Wyoming between Buffalo and Worland as it goes through the Bighorn range is very nice. From the map it looks like 14 just north of it from Ranchester to Greybull could be even better but I've never seen it.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Guzzistajohn on March 12, 2016, 09:33:17 AM
Missouri River in Montana
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag65/guzzistajohn/MON02_zps502fb5fc.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/guzzistajohn/media/MON02_zps502fb5fc.jpg.html)
Super moon on the Great Divide in Glacier NP
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag65/guzzistajohn/SUPERMOONBampW_zps25981722.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/guzzistajohn/media/SUPERMOONBampW_zps25981722.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: PeteS on March 12, 2016, 12:31:26 PM
I have not been on the road since the late 70's but 16 in Wyoming between Buffalo and Worland as it goes through the Bighorn range is very nice. From the map it looks like 14 just north of it from Ranchester to Greybull could be even better but I've never seen it.

16 is a fine road and worth checking out if you have the time. Actually if you had a week you could easily visit all the places mentioned so far and even have time to stop and smell the roses. Last August we crossed the country in 8 days on mostly two lane roads (3600 miles). Our ride included 16 in Wyoming, then Cody, Chief Joseph, Beartooth loop, then Yellowstone including the eastside drive north and west to Gardner and then north to Missoula and then US12, Lolo Pass. That was three days. You could do Glacier from Missoula and still have time for many other roads in Wyoming, Montana and Idaho.

Pete
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: blackbuell on March 12, 2016, 12:39:56 PM
This thread has been very helpful for me, as I am headed to CO, WY, Montana, Idaho, & UT in mid-May. Will check out some of the suggested routes.

Thanks,

Jon
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Tom on March 12, 2016, 01:26:15 PM
Since good trip advice has been thrown out there.  I put my comments in.  Buffalo and/or Elk steaks.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: PJPR01 on March 12, 2016, 02:55:01 PM
Since good trip advice has been thrown out there.  I put my comments in.  Buffalo and/or Elk steaks.
:thumb: :thumb:

And...Huckleberry Milkshakes too!!   :grin: :grin:
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Guzzistajohn on March 12, 2016, 03:02:54 PM
:thumb: :thumb:

And...Huckleberry Milkshakes too!!   :grin: :grin:

Oh man, the huckleberry's and cherries are great in Montana!

Be sure and meet up with Spuddy if you get near Helena-nice guy!
(http://i1299.photobucket.com/albums/ag65/guzzistajohn/montana040_zps93374724.jpg) (http://s1299.photobucket.com/user/guzzistajohn/media/montana040_zps93374724.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Spaghetti on March 12, 2016, 06:05:53 PM
Let me tell the tale of my unplanned visit to Big Sky, MT last August. We attended the Sturgis rally last August and since my new girlfriend had never seen Yellowstone and it had been 20 years since I had been there, we had made indefinite plans to visit the park after the rally.

So about a week ahead of our visit, from the laundromat in Sturgis I started to try and find lodging for a night or two around the park, preferably on the west side. The best option I came up with was a room for one night in Big Sky. I had never heard of Big Sky, but it sounded like a nice Western town.

We entered Yellowstone Park from the east gate near Cody, WY heading west around 11 am. We made it to Old Faithful by about 3 or 4 and stayed just long enough to see it erupt once. By this time of day we had been on the bike behind slow tourist for too long. We both were growing a bit grumpy. Firing up the comfortable Trophy 1200 that was our mount, we headed for the west gate to exit the park at the town of West Yellowstone, from there all we had to do was turn right and toddle towards Big Sky.

Stopping in a bar for a couple of sodas and a basket of popcorn to tide us over till dinner, the time now being about 6 pm, I sat down to consult the magic smart phone for a distance check to Big Sky. 48 miles, I believe was the answer. W.T.H.? I am way to tired and grumpy to do another 50 miles this evening, but I had already put $170 toward a nonrefundable room in Big Sky, so we grudgingly climb back on our steed to grind out another hour of passing miles before we can enjoy the evening's repast. 

I distinctly remember droning along at 60 mph and noting how the road kind of reminded me of an Alaskan highway by the way the trees were clear cut way back from each side of the highway. I assume to help with wildlife not getting too close to the pavement unseen. I look in my mirror and I see an 18 wheeler coming on strong. Not only is he passing the car behind me by some distance, it is obvious he means to overtake me also in one fell swoop! What the......? What does he think......? Doesn't he know........?

After this trucker passes me with all his law breaking bravado on display, something stirs me from my befuddled fog as he continues on away at a spirited pace. I suddenly wake up to my surroundings. I am on a slight downhill grade with high speed sweepers and beautiful mountains on both sides! My senses are now fully awake and I rolled the throttle on for a spirited slalom course all the way into Big Sky!  :bike-037:

The hotel was wonderful. Big Sky is a beautiful little town and there were several nice restaurants.

Then, to make this trip even more wonderful, we got up the next morning to continue north and it was about another 40 or 50 miles north to Missoula, MT. Most all of it just as high speed with delicious sweepers as the previous day's miles.

Here is a 5 minute video of route 191 (not mine) ;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3mLb0POaVo

In summary, was this the greatest road ever? Nah, but is a a scenic hoot to ride. I did it at about 70 mph after a long, tiring day. It could be ridden a LOT faster though. This was a pleasant surprise on my trip. If I ever go back to the area, I will be sure to take this road to Big Sky for a visit.

Chief Joesph Scenic Byway is gorgeous, as is Beartooth pass, but those are several hours distant from Big Sky.


Yellowstone is beautiful, but not worth trying to take a bike there. Just rent a Buick for Yellowstone. The speed limits are low and there are lot of slow moving things on the roads there. Bison, tourist, Buicks........

Spag.
   
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: boatdetective on March 12, 2016, 08:06:23 PM
Spag- thanks for the insight. I definitely don't want to be doing 20mph behind a train of gawkers. When I was in New Mexico- the roads were really clear.  Beartooth sounds wonderful- but will it be the same slow crawl in mid June?

Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Wayne Orwig on March 12, 2016, 08:40:05 PM
Beartooth sounds wonderful- but will it be the same slow crawl in mid June?

Whenever I was there, there is traffic, but not a parade. Never a problem. Snow would be more of a concern.
Now Rocky Mountain National Park, out of Estes Colorado, that can be a parade.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Chuck in Indiana on March 13, 2016, 06:04:42 AM
This is the Montana side of the pass.  You will not be riding very fast.

(http://snowbrains.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/beartooth_map.jpg)

You will not make any time in the park either.  The speed limit is 45 mph.

I had the Lario on Beartooth.. not riding fast, but passed everyone on the road.  :smiley: Mostly just cruisers putting along. Traffic wasn't an issue, but that was in July. There was still snow in July, but the road was fine. I would think that Going to the sun would be closed in June, cross that one off your list.
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: PeteS on March 13, 2016, 08:04:54 AM
Hopefully forest fires won't be an issue this year. The smoke and fires closed Going to the Sun last July into August and greatly limited the view from central Wyoming and Montana all the way west. You could barely see across the peaks around Beartooth. I skipped taking pictures during our time there as there was little to see.


Pete
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: Spaghetti on March 13, 2016, 08:35:42 PM
No problem on the insight, Boatdetective. Thanks for reading my ramblings. Having just been out there in August, I was excited to add my $0.02.

Big Sky is a awesome little resort town that reeks of $$$$$, in a good way. I think all of the roads around there should make for nice scenic riding.

You could squeeze in a loop ride through Yellowstone if you want to see the park, but I would check out the mountain roads in Idaho & Montana. It all depends on how much seat time you can commit to the area for your rides. I just know I was shocked when I thought that I could shoot through Yellowstone park's south loop in an hour or two because it looked like 50 miles on a map and it took more like 4 hours from the east gate to the west gate.

If you left Big Sky in the morning, you could probably go in Yellowstone's North gate and out the West gate back to big Sky in one good day.

It is beautiful out there. Much more scenic than my normal Illinois & Iowa rides on the weekends.

 - Spag
Title: Re: Ride/sightseeing advice- Big Sky, MT
Post by: JoeW on March 14, 2016, 10:44:38 AM
In 2012, we rented a house in Glacier Nat. Park. on the north fork of the Flathead river near the town of Polebridge. Didn't do any motorcycling but, had an amazing time. Did hit the Going to The Sun highway, my daughter said it felt like Disney Land compared to where we were staying. I had heard Yellowstone is very crowded during the summer so, we avoided it.