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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: fred garvin on March 28, 2016, 12:54:20 PM
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I am at a loss. This is not my first rodeo bleeding brakes which makes this frustrating. I started out by removing the old fluid from the rear master cylinder. Then filled with new dot 4 and started bleeding from the caliper as usual with all old fluid removed. I refilled to prevent any air in the system and continued bleeding until clean fluid remained. No air bubbles and no lever pressure. I then started from the caliper and reverse bleed still with no lever pressure. I tapped all of the lines, calipers and master cylinder to dislodge any air bubbles and then resorted to leaving the brake lever applied over night with the cylinder cap off but filled with fluid. If a brake bleeding system is in order, any advice on which brand?
Thanks
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I was using a hand held vacuum, now have a Mitey Vac on air comp.
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Fred, I wrote a guide to changing the fluid/bleeding on the V7 Classic. My guide is the "poor man's version" and the racer's brakes are better, but it still might be helpful.
(Double click on the photos to get the text)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625625067451 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625625067451)
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if you don't have a sucker then you could pull the caliper off and hold with the bleeder on top then do it the old fashioned way.
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I've used Speed Bleeder nipples on other bikes. Just bought a set of stainless for the V7.
There's NOTHING easier! Get their reusable hose and bag too.
Speedbleeder.com
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I've never removed the old fluid before putting new in. I would think that just causes potential air locks.
I use a large syringe with a rubber hose and suck the old fluid out of the caliper while somebody else makes sure the reservoir is topped up with new fluid.
Edit: you can do it the other way too and push new fluid in with the syringe, but you have to be careful it doesn't spray out the reservoir.