Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Antietam Classic Cycle on April 05, 2016, 10:08:28 PM
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The collection of accumulated parts in my shed and shop reached "critical mass" just after New Years. Bits of Ambassador here, bits of Convert there, a smathering of Cal 2 mixed in. Time to build a bike! But, what to build? Another mostly standard Ambassador like "Barney" or "Sophia"? Naw, something a bit different, more of a challenge: an Ambovert, following in the footsteps of guys like Dale Peterson, Paul Linn and Mike Tiberio.
January 14th: I fetch the rough carcass of the '72 Ambassador from my off-site storage. I bought it for $200 at the VA Guzzi Rally in 2014.
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/944031_826020790853387_938781066248556383_n.jpg?oh=79b431a3b564150968e7ca61e7f9d201&oe=5774826C)
Started rounding up parts to use. Patrick Hayes helped me buy this nice original paint SFPD tank. One less piece to paint, although it does have a dent on the left side.
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12400640_826020780853388_3602631646499575936_n.jpg?oh=f93b86707e2401562d569c0e0e4efc96&oe=57BD487E)
I bought this low-mileage Cal 2 engine from a Harley guy that got in a trade and had no use for it. I bought some rocker cover adapters so I could use Loop rocker covers if I wanted to. Stuck a Loop distributor into it to see if anything needed to be clearanced.
(https://scontent-lga3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12512522_826031994185600_6928612664194183135_n.jpg?oh=4a7e0cbcad6e644a568904637f34aa09&oe=577246D6)
Next: work starts.
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Really looking forward to the development of this thread. Thanks for making it!
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OOOOOH! I LUV me some Appalachian Engineering!
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Tell me about the loop distributor in the modern big block -- does it work?
I used the Loop distributor on the Convert engine in "Sophia" and it worked well. Since a Cal 2 engine is virtually identical except for the squared fins, it should work just as well. If needed, I have access to a Sun distributor machine and can recurve the advance.
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I used the Loop distributor on the Convert engine in "Sophia" and it worked well. Since a Cal 2 engine is virtually identical except for the squared fins, it should work just as well. If needed, I have access to a Sun distributor machine and can recurve the advance.
WOW! A Sun distributor machine, I can only imagine that test equipment like that will only go up in value given the trend to authentically restore 70's muscle cars (and loops of course).
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WOW! A Sun distributor machine, I can only imagine that test equipment like that will only go up in value given the trend to authentically restore 70's muscle cars (and loops of course).
The shop that has that does mostly drag racing and circle track racing V8s, so they have lots of useful old equipment perfect for Loop work. :grin:
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That tank has the nicest curves of any Guzzi
Running your hands over that is guaranteed to make you horney
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Going to be fun following this, I have a similar project in the future,. Ambassador frame, 04 hydraulic engine, Convert drive train, 04EV front end, 98 EV wheels. I hope to use an electric fuel pump like Dale Peterson did. Know where his old California II resides.
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Since the Convert drive provides little if any engine braking and this bike could end up with a sidecar attached eventually, I decided to build a dual disc front end for it. The Convert I parted out supplied most of it, with Loop parts mixed in and some self-made bits here and there.
Started at the top: drum-brake fork top plugs were drilled and tapped to accept a stud.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12552781_826905910764875_5089644740408339808_n.jpg?oh=a6f270842fdfd6573428892a37f9615c&oe=5780E2FB)
The damper attaches to it like this (Loctite will be used during final assembly):
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12400586_826905907431542_1254712605907752527_n.jpg?oh=2c8de609973f1eec1db7a3a799b6a7da&oe=57BF6C1D)
Convert lowers, damper and spring assemblies ready for test fitting:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12507350_826905914098208_4330671724447626425_n.jpg?oh=4acc2295071a679545bd7ff76f90d6cb&oe=57BE0B4E)
But first I need to remove the nut securing the lower bushing from the drum-brake fork tubes. Made this "quick and dirty" tool out of an old socket:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12540990_827777730677693_437771400754071499_n.jpg?oh=263fa287c2d82af9eb2e07e35d1d3f8c&oe=5784A2F4)
Worked great on a few bent tubes I tested it on, but the nuts on the mock-up tubes were a lot tighter and the slots just rounded out:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12541028_827777787344354_2839662939631275908_n.jpg?oh=7f287498e99da2976c345a03332b3c0d&oe=5777CB24)
After a bit of thought, I decided to just drill the nut out along with the threads in the bottom of the drum brake tube in order for it to clear the "cup" at the bottom of the Convert damper/spring assy. Chucked the tubes up in the "big" lathe, found a 1.125" drill bit and set to work.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/941017_827777760677690_2677897879538473647_n.jpg?oh=73f579685517ec9ff5a3caf8d49a829e&oe=57B7A1A3)
In no time at all the nut was gone along with the threads:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12509736_827777804011019_1921234824076020973_n.jpg?oh=fee154ddb51215a6f8dfa142d695c670&oe=5789E246)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12552942_827777707344362_1731767010777361918_n.jpg?oh=f98e2f4699b211f92c123b43ec5cdac0&oe=57B72580)
Assembled the left fork leg and slipped it into the triple clamps:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12565466_827777814011018_3982988211372518310_n.jpg?oh=3eb81615eac0b5e0b90c44fa725bab1a&oe=5773008D)
The top of the lower is even with the bottom of the drum brake fork shroud, so with the Convert damper/spring assembly, the longer disc brake shrouds aren't really necessary. The might be useful with longer damper/spring assemblies such as the SP.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12552873_827777877344345_1643795473948787094_n.jpg?oh=ae924f7170e63e8a9fd33ce01f5e6c62&oe=57BD360B)
Both forks aseembled and fitted, new-old-stock axle from Teo Lamers, new bearings, Convert center spacer and left-side spacer I made from stainless steel tube from McMaster-Carr. You'll notice I have the forks on "backwards" - I did this so I don't have to use the hard to find disc Eldo fender braces. I'll be using shortened drum brake braces instead. I also like the looks of the calipers behind the forks better and the hose runs will be simplified.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12509755_828182587303874_335107604218219120_n.jpg?oh=b8c06eadf8fda858f930b350f2d9e951&oe=578911C3)
Next step was to machine a pair of 10 mm thick spacers for between the front wheel bearing carriers and discs. These are necessary because the Loop forks are 20 mm wide than Convert forks. Bought two chunks of 5" diameter x 1" thick 6061-T6 from McMaster-Carr and after four hours of deliberately slow work on the small lathe, I had one finished.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12509301_826021847519948_7516068909428283349_n.jpg?oh=6ea2ad3ea2b10c1e6b395cf383a7475c&oe=57C0725D)
Another three hours and I had a pair:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12523082_827791884009611_2103709728958311590_n.jpg?oh=87e2c4cbccb918deb4381356ef577bf1&oe=5786900E)
The crusty looking Convert wheel cleaned up nicely using EZ-Brite Aluminum Trailer Cleaner:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12410522_826905947431538_2368562784020772822_n.jpg?oh=d480ed136c03e279c98cdaf34c7e0ca8&oe=57758721)
The rusty discs were soaked in Evapo-Rust:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t1.0-9/1517551_826905964098203_1952337601377160996_n.jpg?oh=49d5be19a5fc5f2c04f6503dee57a6a4&oe=57806A72)
And came out pretty good too:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12494684_827777737344359_4414558476078566552_n.jpg?oh=9a20207912a2cfe4700cb22f5b20b0aa&oe=5785E70E)
Assembled wheel test fitted:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12508693_829160793872720_6762777146712575001_n.jpg?oh=8dbe21642103bfd513bfb6989a210942&oe=57747F04)
Tire mounted up so that I can get the fender position correct:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12495168_829616937160439_4533997263748827138_n.jpg?oh=aa91dd27c9f117a031b25a8d884f0bc6&oe=57832829)
Fender position is just about perfect after shortening the rear brace 1" and the front brace 1.375". Still need to made the center brace where the fender attaches to the fork lowers.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12509139_830070547115078_2330171615779455927_n.jpg?oh=84c396253ea60aa5cee5910421f9a9eb&oe=57BE5B66)
That's all for now.
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Next on the agenda was mocking up the drivetrain. The Cal 2 engine was disassembled completely, the case and covers cleaned and machine work done on the heads. Instead of lifting a completely assembled engine in and out of the frame, I left the "guts" out and loosely assembled the rest.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/12417673_829616930493773_8672852926993223029_n.jpg?oh=d54d9f2285346647ced39ba3e2981db6&oe=577946E9)
Out with the old - original 750 engine and four-speed:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/12651050_834123366709796_1848866304232490182_n.jpg?oh=bc6c7ccb48dc959ae02f4ca891c588ca&oe=5776E418)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/12654692_834123373376462_2496234013824529307_n.jpg?oh=cf4b98890e9a5a8b51bd03e433fbfa5e&oe=578C6F16)
and in with the new - Cal 2 engine and Convert transmission:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12592287_834123370043129_4555978656113243302_n.jpg?oh=663c56652042dd9fda27c75a5b4764a7&oe=5789C515)
Loop battery tray needs to be modified:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12524305_834123493376450_8166489854860642287_n.jpg?oh=3e09aeb6a9ff7ffe832f939589a85207&oe=5775A16D)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12662036_835253083263491_4320615070750472302_n.jpg?oh=25c199895533a166fd62ff427f07957a&oe=5780B9B9)
Speedo cable will interfere with the right airbox mounting tab. I'll be using pod filters, so I'll probably just bend it up and mount a rubber bumper to it to keep the battery located.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12647023_834123516709781_4559835892771210351_n.jpg?oh=5c5d14b390e4a1a49bbd8f90e2cef684&oe=5788C7E8)
Thinking about oil cooler location. Fits pretty well just mounted to the horn bolt hole.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12642839_835253066596826_7991348813907076324_n.jpg?oh=07f81e2286115e954b4fa2705027ed12&oe=57B6E2E5)
I will need to fabricate a (bolt-on) bracket to secure the bottom mount.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12670250_835253053263494_1648153294705751569_n.jpg?oh=5645080c7db2d54d83a894975e7b1fa7&oe=57769BE3)
Stuck my straightest, but rustiest rear fender on:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12651385_836737016448431_4744257500197192674_n.jpg?oh=df21cc7d42081773bda7cf559b8e7461&oe=577A4D00)
And started thinking about fluid pump mounting. Original plan was to use a pair of original voltage regulator brackets bridged with a plate.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12647546_836737029781763_8803223915281385109_n.jpg?oh=8e64e4fca0537d18f1a5756ab279c1ec&oe=5778538B)
I even started laying out the plate on some .120" thick steel I had. Ultimately, wasn't happy with the idea, mostly concerns that the reg. brackets weren't strong enough, so discarded the idea.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/7696_859743747481091_6986587572778247181_n.jpg?oh=6f3885458e39b59ddfb7b1f34df60557&oe=5780CC6E)
More thought needed on that, I moved on to other things.
Here I'm trying to decide: shift pedal or no shift pedal?
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12631531_836737019781764_5596866913090747097_n.jpg?oh=23cfc86096ea3c5ce6d2b133f1fb3836&oe=57BB30E0)
Stuck a few more parts on:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12651112_837230003065799_8029482789245048185_n.jpg?oh=37a870baf86ba1495eb0b94c0fd1fb51&oe=577FD235)
Decided to use the Convert speedometer so I'd have a tripmeter. This creates the problem of where to put warning lights. I'll need at least three - charging, oil pressure and high beam.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12650974_839855592803240_2994207484060592123_n.jpg?oh=96963c1d29a1da20b0ddcde21c654c42&oe=578A07C6)
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Charlie, with a light flywheel a two-wheel convert has plenty of engine brake. It's not the absolute braking of a 5-speed, but it sure lets you know you rolled off the throttle.
I have both the light, stamped steel "bowl" and the heavy machined flywheel. I'll be using the latter. I've ridden Converts with each type back-to-back and really couldn't tell much difference. <shrug>
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Looking great! Lots of decisions to make, great fun. How would you shift between HI and LO without the shift pedal?
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Looking great! Lots of decisions to make, great fun. How would you shift between HI and LO without the shift pedal?
The shift arm the pedal would link to is easy to reach, just under the battery tray on the left side. If you take the little "heel peg" off of the Convert footboard brake lever and mount it to the arm, you can reach it to shift up or down no problem. I don't anticipate shifting between ranges that often in any case. Credit for this idea goes to Mike Tiberio.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtl1/t31.0-8/12977026_876969262425206_3598313742035367736_o.jpg)
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Also -- I tried mounting a cooler once directly to the frame. The vibration kilt it and it died a very messy death. It needs to be mounted in rubber bushings.
It won't be mounted directly to the frame, I'm retaining the factory rubber mounting bushings.
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OK, I understand now. Cleaner (less pedal) is my vote too in this case then.
I'm really appreciating the Convert more and more by the minute. I thought the "shifting" on the Convert was still something that needed to be done from say a full stop to a higher speed or faster road.
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OK, I understand now. Cleaner (less pedal) is my vote too in this case then.
I'm really appreciating the Convert more and more by the minute. I thought the "shifting" on the Convert was still something that needed to be done from say a full stop to a higher speed or faster road.
Nope. You can leave in high range all of the time if you like. Low range gives faster acceleration and a bit more engine braking.
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Later I locked the gearbox in high range and threw away the shifter altogether.
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Did you do away with the shifter fork (and lever), and somehow force the sliding dog rearward into the high gear through the use of a sleeve or something? I tried this once, whined like hell. I want to revisit it.
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:popcorn: This will be a learning experience for me.. :thumb:
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:popcorn: This will be a learning experience for me.. :thumb:
How not to do things? :laugh: :wink:
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How not to do things? :laugh: :wink:
Charlie, I just imagine you'll do another fine job on this project. I've never fooled with a convert. :smiley:
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Use a suicide shifter?
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Moving on...
I'm using the Convert swingarm but with the Ambassador drum rear brake, so had this tab fabricated and welded on.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12495010_826023514186448_3250706714239647353_n.jpg?oh=7d9b4040f75f7b2137c2fdbc2a509dab&oe=57B65AB3)
Actually I did two - one for me and one for Dave Washburn's Eldo. Had both powdercoated in Jet Black.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/l/t1.0-9/12642760_835257643263035_3698288620774507978_n.jpg?oh=364297e12a8346a4fcbe69c89fe3ad14&oe=57720887)
Went through my stash and chose the best rear wheel, cleaned it the same as the front, had it trued and mounted the tire.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12745871_842940212494778_7095292440868476896_n.jpg?oh=92a58eaae328fef372646bd39905c571&oe=57720149)
Installed new bearings and seals in the swingarm and mounted it into the frame. Found some nice rear shocks, cleaned up the Convert rear drive and bolted it on. Installed the rear wheel with a new-old-stock axle.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/12733461_842940222494777_459330582909454773_n.jpg?oh=8ea9f1e4cece67b5f4386f63cb55bf9b&oe=57891F18)
Added a few more parts. Starting to look like a motorcycle!
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12717684_843022872486512_7697915888562327178_n.jpg?oh=619a7bd4c873be9b8c7a3ccbe598ccbe&oe=578201E7)
Time to figure out an atf tank. I had initially planned to have one custom-made like a thicker toolbox and mount it the same place as a standard toolbox. But, to my surprise, the Convert tank fit behind the left battery cover fairly well and still left room for a (smaller) battery and fluid pump. No sense spending money have another made.
At this point I had a piece of angle iron attached to the bottom tab of the tank and clamped to the battery tray. Hmm, could be an issue with carburetor clearance, better mock one up and see. Uh oh.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12688267_839855626136570_4117456469102805847_n.jpg?oh=7a43185b799e383af90acb2511a933bd&oe=578DF222)
That isn't going to work - the carb points right at the tank, leaving no room for air filters. Okay, Cal II manifold won't work, what will? I could use the Convert VHB30s and manifolds, but I really want to use the pair of PHF30s I picked up cheap. I think back to Groover's G5 restoration and the posts regarding the manifolds. The G5 of that period (CX100 and SP too) had a different manifold flange with rubber elbow that tucked the PHFs in tighter so they'd connect to the early "Tonti's revenge" airbox. Now where did I put those flanges? PM'ed Groover and it turns out I had sent them to him along with a set of usable rubber elbows. Groover sent them back (Thanks again!) and I mocked the left carb up again, this time with a battery cover in place.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/12717652_844010012387798_221370599890661045_n.jpg?oh=826f09b3ccdd37b834dfcdbe8def4c1d&oe=57B7FDF4)
Yeah, buddy! That'll work great. That figured out, on to mounting the tank. Used CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) for the top bracket.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12705655_839855656136567_1429296523153273370_n.jpg?oh=72ca5e4106a9027b131789bc0177bfb6&oe=57BE5788)
A little fine tuning:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/12670244_839855652803234_7333539690651846382_n.jpg?oh=3616dfe65ada5b3ebb06052e11fb2fc3&oe=577E7CF3)
Transferred to metal and cut out:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12745412_846596305462502_3699922337821115713_n.jpg?oh=cd9a6394fcef3f87d6338a412d6555db&oe=577AFF81)
Rubber mounts added to isolate the tank from harmful vibes:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12715554_846596308795835_2516017444523039618_n.jpg?oh=07b2341bf9d18f29f74cf8efbc143951&oe=5779215D)
Mocking up oil tank, battery and electric fluid pump positions. The area from the blue masking tape down on the propane cylinder is the diameter and length of the heat sink on the pump I plan to use, the pump head with regulator is much smaller of course. The cardboard box is cut and folded to exactly the size of the Motobatt MBTX16U battery that I plan to use. There's still room for a K&N MG-2640 air filter between the carbs. I may drill and tap some holes into the oil tank mount plate for mounting relays and/or an auxiliary fuse block.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12745466_847588328696633_7221094549903998256_n.jpg?oh=0cff6997522c125cfdbb1a7469d638c0&oe=577EA822)
To make sure I'll have enough "juice" to run the fluid pump along with everything else, I bought a Scrambler Cycle alternator kit. Mounted it up to see if the oil lines to the head would clear the bracket okay.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12794395_849615498493916_5105824300145738525_n.jpg?oh=a5c9bf0c851d04df7cc91aa7ab7c7d3f&oe=5771C035)
Yup.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtl1/v/t1.0-9/11665426_849615531827246_5464020184769308443_n.jpg?oh=50ea9fc50582a9fee898805b05cd9cd7&oe=577DA8D7)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/12798905_849615541827245_413191653136672463_n.jpg?oh=3d40954e6e310c833b077d8428545403&oe=5776D81C)
Another decision to make: which ignition system. I can go with the dual-point timer original to the engine and (gasp!) add a C5 Ignitions electronic ignition system...
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfl1/v/t1.0-9/12806247_849615755160557_4196489627098890506_n.jpg?oh=e92087cb2504cd3e63f2fddfdd3df01e&oe=577AA2D6)
...or use an Eldorado single-point distributor (and stick with points).
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/10370452_849615875160545_3132904343025822692_n.jpg?oh=b0bd67ed6459d7e5768ca46fd616725e&oe=57B6D6B0)
Which only fits because I thought ahead for once and clearanced two fins of the head enough that it would. I'll probably go with this setup first, then if I experience issues (ping, power delivery) will alter the advance. If that doesn't remedy the problem, then the dual-point with e.i. will be fitted.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12804668_849616055160527_971802544642743776_n.jpg?oh=466e51049ed6320cf6a9559f106bcb96&oe=57BAE13B)
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Use a suicide shifter?
Oh yea, a high/low tank shifter would be wicked cool!
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This is gonna be epic! :popcorn:
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This is gonna be epic! :popcorn:
Right up there with the Aero Lario!
:popcorn:
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Fun stuff, Charlie. :thumb: I realize that you are still very much in the prototype stage, but for your avid follower's edification, the sharp corners on the mount bracket are stress risers, and need to be radiused.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12745412_846596305462502_3699922337821115713_n.jpg?oh=cd9a6394fcef3f87d6338a412d6555db&oe=577AFF81)
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Looking great! I love it when work gets done while I sleep :grin:
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Fun stuff, Charlie. :thumb: I realize that you are still very much in the prototype stage, but for your avid follower's edification, the sharp corners on the mount bracket are stress risers, and need to be radiused.
All of them have been radiused to some extent now, but I'm still not finished.
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Getting close to being caught up.
Working on deciding where to mount relays for the starter, fluid pump and headlight high/low. Could position them on the tank mount, but that makes accessing them a bit tight.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10653335_850727651716034_5293484754510229227_n.jpg?oh=617769fb80aba91fb6a4b56652378e36&oe=57897E14)
(Thanks to Greg Bender for lending me a gang of four relay sockets and a relay).
I'll think about that and try some other locations later. The fluid pump has arrived and I can finally get one with figuring out how to mount it.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12802770_855002944621838_8945161202844215570_n.jpg?oh=f37fbf287b40590f57854741f12d45cf&oe=5781402B)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12472807_855002967955169_7739943525073586304_n.jpg?oh=4126c40c6fb26c581f5692ea4c38e66d&oe=57BE18C1)
So far this project had been financed by the sale of parts from the Convert I bought and parted out. Purchase of the pump was the first "red ink" on ledger, but certainly won't be the last.
Blocked the pump sort of into place along with the cardboard "battery".
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/12821617_855002941288505_5662396627755967147_n.jpg?oh=ae9e0f4744300c8dab586f1c471969f5&oe=57750161)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlf1/v/t1.0-9/12814013_855002927955173_3576781093661921963_n.jpg?oh=c1228feeb29cd8a1d5f423bf54f0ccba&oe=57B81531)
Version 1.0 of my CAD mounting plate:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/12523877_861975720591227_3198999274416301491_n.jpg?oh=ebb251da40c70f5ae1e99fe1f4853b8d&oe=5785A754)
Doesn't quite fit right:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1186166_861975723924560_4184282837836704574_n.jpg?oh=fa6757335fffb683c7abc4560b04124b&oe=577B5A7F)
Version 3.0 is getting close:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlt1/v/t1.0-9/12472342_864591953662937_1639327611970110927_n.jpg?oh=7bc246ecd87224cf1a371244519684d5&oe=5773821E)
Room for the relays down here, will mount the flasher unit somewhere there too.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlp1/v/t1.0-9/5462_864591936996272_5656862246517140026_n.jpg?oh=f60dd14b2fe44dab9227e9d12cba37b8&oe=5771CAA7)
Version 3.1: ready for transfer to metal. I chose .075" thick steel sheet.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12800228_865509783571154_4434039251280842151_n.jpg?oh=cae1850c83222a163254454d4b9bbfd1&oe=57BC25B5)
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Diversions:
Two weeks ago, I decided it was finally time to "resurrect" the 60 year old Montgomery-Wards bandsaw that my late father used to cut out pieces of countless projects. It originally had a 2-speed planetary transmission that mounted to the shaft of the lower wheel. That "blew up" while my brother Karl was using it, nearly 20 years ago. The gearbox had been repaired before - the housing showed the scars of numerous attempts to extend it's life, but it was finally just scrap. Since Karl broke it, I stubbornly refused to fix it. Of course, that meant that everything I've made since then has been literally "hacked out" and then filed or ground to shape. That includes the tank mounting bracket - a lot of effort into just one piece. I wasn't prepared to beat myself to death again cutting out the pump mount.
So, I cleaned a bunch of mess from around the old machine and dragged it out away from the wall so I could work on it.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1933877_1585657798422519_2721135408490590725_n.jpg?oh=542205ddea9efe595285f1174576cfbb&oe=577A1F9A)
Karl had at least started thinking about how to repower it and salvaged a nice gear-reduction motor from somewhere. As I discovered the first time I powered it up, there was just one problem: it ran "backwards"! :sad: Looking it over, it appeared that I could disassemble the gearbox and move the shaft to the opposite site, reversing direction. That worked and also gave me a chance to see just how overbuilt the gearbox was. Set the motor into place:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfl1/v/t1.0-9/1239613_1585657735089192_7032147985681622713_n.jpg?oh=fc9efdccc743e12ad04046dd1cebaecf&oe=577F767B)
Next problem was that it looked like the motor was going to hit the frame before the pulleys would line up:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtp1/v/t1.0-9/12096625_1585657731755859_3230851005901542379_n.jpg?oh=ba2ff9b20ca045ac26876db74d0acf6d&oe=578C39A1)
But, since only one bolt hole of the motor was going to line up with the original mounting plate slots, I decided to make another mounting plate.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t1.0-9/1455040_1589864618001837_8413384158299451390_n.jpg?oh=5989fd482ae7a8b37dc0255d4cf843fb&oe=57888877)
That would allow me to move the motor closer to the pivot of the plate and maybe gain enough clearance that the motor could move side-to-side. "Quick and dirty" was the name of the game here - whatever I could scrounge up in the scrap pile and attic. Came up with a (very rusty) piece of 1/4" steel plate 6" x 18" and some "base mount bearings" in the attic. Perfect - the plate is large and thick enough, the bearings will fit onto the original pivot shaft. I didn't even measure and lay out the holes, just clamped the bearings into place so the shaft was square with the plate and drilled the holes. Set the motor up on the plate and tried to mark the hole position.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t1.0-9/12670878_1589864718001827_2921958779748055908_n.jpg?oh=526f485ba400b5b0406b7584eb24cb1d&oe=57B5D9EE)
Couldn't make a good mark, so ended up laying out these holes, as close to the pivot as I could get them.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/v/t1.0-9/1937052_1589864741335158_3655429591926219663_n.jpg?oh=c2d994bf836d05f68868662e224de0e7&oe=578553BD)
Plate mounted to the pivot rod:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10356688_1589864754668490_183607855611423466_n.jpg?oh=39f98598b7e273564683a60fc042c073&oe=5774ABFA)
And motor bolted into place:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlt1/v/t1.0-9/10398929_1589864768001822_4853457982274435271_n.jpg?oh=00ad1d2cb6ebf438b969875e73387080&oe=57BF4789)
On to the rest. Both bearings on the lower wheel shaft were seized nearly solid and of course, they were an "odd" size (3.4" i.d. x 1.850" o.d.). After a bit of searching on the 'net, I found that Applied Industrial had a workable substitute, but they had to be ordered and would take a few days.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlt1/v/t1.0-9/12871451_1585657825089183_9057316434411386348_n.jpg?oh=34c9daeaf78dd22dad8fe94de187e7a0&oe=57889EBD)
Meanwhile, I started working on figuring out the pulley sizes I'd need to achieve the correct feet-per-minute blade speed (according to what I read online). Karl had already bought a 2.5" pulley for the motor shaft and I found a 10" pulley up top would give me a blade speed of 104 fpm. Ordered a nice cast-iron pulley on Amazon and moved on to other projects.
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Bearings finally arrived and I bought more stuff from McMaster-Carr. Back to work.
Cleaned away as much of the wood dust and metal shavings as I could.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11665396_1585657855089180_4317368736558083802_n.jpg?oh=3d5707c0a1a176217bb689dcb3d8f767&oe=57B757A8)
Shaft has seen better days - divots where the set screw of the old transmission wallowed it out. I'll replace it I need to.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/1957971_1585657838422515_7890600565867906552_n.jpg?oh=005157a20dbd18b835c50cc097f7d532&oe=5786DAD3)
New bearings and collar installed:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/12439178_1589864611335171_7839432982867104267_n.jpg?oh=5aac7fde02eb87d575384717cf70b89d&oe=57777529)
Needed to add a washer at the front:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/1469747_1589864581335174_7432435534525895579_n.jpg?oh=8fda36c08eddd01825fa6f3286a99ddf&oe=5776A800)
Even before I made the new mounting plate, I realized the motor still wouldn't be able to move far enough back for the pulleys to align. So I had ordered a keyed coupler and 3" length of keyed 1" shaft to make an extension. The shaft only turns 175 rpm and won't have much load on it, so I think it'll work just fine.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10387579_1588889681432664_7856052093890839454_n.jpg?oh=4d6e95d32a8a8d6748c096d2271d1d79&oe=5779C38A)
Still waiting for the upper pulley to arrive, so I rewired the entire thing and replaced the broken work light fixture.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12928328_1594259050895727_2707719408806976395_n.jpg?oh=33312143b3583e1e8bef7f09e47119bd&oe=577A1ED4)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xal1/v/t1.0-9/12376669_1594259090895723_3585835874012910489_n.jpg?oh=ddc0c29f741772295997d26a69580244&oe=5772057C)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12923327_1596922117296087_5605855573759294221_n.jpg?oh=923db7eb98573a8275f239babd616c95&oe=577F7203)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xlp1/v/t1.0-9/12923311_1596922107296088_9009613360953009917_n.jpg?oh=1b3287bf11ee19a2261e6cd1e5508231&oe=578D61CF)
Pulley finally arrived:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14043_1595262080795424_4106243784496668400_n.jpg?oh=3820333504ea44805960f98000a6935d&oe=5781B6EA)
Used the belt length calculator on McMaster-Carr's website and came up with a 64" belt needed, measured around the pulleys and got 65". Bought a 64" belt at Tractor Supply. Perfect!
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xaf1/v/t1.0-9/12512421_1596922150629417_5483568002083707710_n.jpg?oh=b6b06574b3775576e3ecf823afde2b69&oe=57769371)
Now, let's just weld up a blade and we'll be ready to rumble. Uh, plug is falling off of the cord to the Do-All Bandsaw Blade Welder. No wonder, cord is crumbling and the plug is busted too.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/1934645_1596922170629415_8370913401313546659_n.jpg?oh=3463a1015bce6a92867eada2bf53f092&oe=577968DA)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xft1/v/t1.0-9/12592278_1596922183962747_6262338417530418454_n.jpg?oh=7d11635ff2ca4b600778c50b3366c240&oe=57B5F3C8)
Project for another day. Sigh. I'll just order a 111" blade from McMaster-Carr for $17.
Blade arrived on Monday (April 4th), I installed it and reset all of the guides. First cut in a long time.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12931247_1599354330386199_1994098338774448124_n.jpg?oh=d1b7932b5cd1729bca0b15157b7162ad&oe=578996EF)
A few more test cuts revealed that it drifts a bit to the left, so I need to compensate for that.
Mixed in with the bandsaw project was rebuilding my "garage-in-a-box" that collapsed under a heavy snow load and fixing the leaky Harbor Freight lift table.
Being a "packrat", I had saved all of the framework and main cover from a previous "garage". I replaced it because I knew that the cover wouldn't make it through another Winter. It'll do fine for this Spring and Summer until I can build something more permanent or just clean all of the crap out of the sheds where my equipment should be stored! Reassembled the frame one afternoon and reused the ends:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/11180950_1592541664400799_6090395125082839333_n.jpg?oh=e033fb27ad9c3a55d39d66aba35c7e34&oe=577E077E)
Battled a 20 mph wind, gusting to 30 mph putting the cover on by myself.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1509850_1595264207461878_6144505647162601147_n.jpg?oh=d4febab3fa5983ac391734c4cfb5b987&oe=57B9D88C)
Good enough for the short-term.
Now, that leaky lift...
The pump assembly is very simple, but crudely machined.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/v/t1.0-9/12801586_1595430390778593_7732533041010889880_n.jpg?oh=83c040828b3826e132f0b5bf40f970d0&oe=5777CAE6)
The bore of the pump cylinder was poorly finished causing the o-ring on the pump shaft to tear.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xla1/v/t1.0-9/12512220_1595427040778928_8973129136360086732_n.jpg?oh=cdb630c7b5cb773c7393f249edb6c615&oe=577B7988)
So I made up a "hone" consisting of two dime sized discs of Scotchbrite screwed to the end of an aluminum dowel. That polished the pump bore pretty well, but there were still imperfections that could cause a leak. Reassembled with an aluminum crush washer in place of the original soft steel one, applied some sealer where the pump threads into the base of the hydraulic jack and reinstalled the unit. No more leak, even with a load and not locked into position. How long it'll stay that way? Who knows. If I have to do it again, I'll just machine a better pump assembly.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpt1/v/t1.0-9/12923177_1595424827445816_5045092637524887539_n.jpg?oh=5e779b96860fb164151f2d97846737cd&oe=5788C09B)
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If you don't have any, a transfer punch set
(http://ak-i21.geccdn.net/site/images/n-picgroup/TRS_1865000.jpg)
makes short work of transferring holes. Faster, and more accurate than laying out.
wallowed
The correct technical term is wallared. :smiley: :boozing:
Attaboy, Charlie. You'll be kicking yourself for not fixing that band saw years ago..
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If you don't have any, a transfer punch set
(http://ak-i21.geccdn.net/site/images/n-picgroup/TRS_1865000.jpg)
makes short work of transferring holes. Faster, and more accurate than laying out.
The correct technical term is wallared. :smiley: :boozing:
Attaboy, Charlie. You'll be kicking yourself for not fixing that band saw years ago..
I have a cheap set, but there wasn't a straight shot to use them. Would have needed an "S" shaped one. :wink: Couldn't even get in there with a scribe or Sharpie.
I'd been kicking myself for a long time about the bandsaw, but it was a matter of principal - you break it, you fix it. Karl moved to Oregon last year, so it was down to me.
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:smiley:
As far as I'm concerned the two indispensable tools in a shop are a drill press and band saw.
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Many thanks for documenting this build, including the 'bonus' projects. I'm stuck indoors after work as torrential rain washes the salt from the roads. This thread, a craft beer, and a ballgame on in the background make for not such a bad wet spring evening. :boozing:
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:smiley:
As far as I'm concerned the two indispensable tools in a shop are a drill press and band saw.
Agreed. The old Craftsman drill press here needs a bit of work, but still gets the job done.
Let's see, where did I leave off? Oh yeah, pump mounting.
Cut the bracket out last night, rounded the corners, smoothed some edges and drilled some holes today. I need one more hole in the bottom right corner for the wiring to the starter, brake switch and rear lights to go through. Other than that, it's ready to be bent into shape.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/12985428_877614685693997_8246255631947144412_n.jpg?oh=71d5edb1cfd943bdf78ac47b1d2c9886&oe=577D876E)
Last week I thinking forward to luggage. I plan to do some longer trips this year if this thing turns out as well as I hope. Wixoms are nice looking but a bit small for any more than a long weekend. A few years ago I bought a pair of DB saddlebags that had been "smoothed" from Cam3512. Tried to sell them a few times, but never did, probably a good thing since I now plan to use them. Do these 'bags make my butt look big? :azn:
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12938077_873228182799314_205471805788290836_n.jpg?oh=cf73fa9402a1d18c2d20d5a4e1fac3d7&oe=578760A7)
Of course I'll have them painted to match the (Guzzi) polizia/"buffalo" fairing (and repro DB lowers for cold weather) that will migrate from "Barney".
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/12494717_873228192799313_4747509485387707607_n.jpg?oh=1d8ee28b841dce481e6e21f5cb750530&oe=57B5A6ED)
I also have a DB rear fender guard that I might have rechromed and install.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpl1/v/t1.0-9/12524392_873228186132647_997401377273537022_n.jpg?oh=345bc19560119dce1d163371bb177a57&oe=5774B0E2)
The only other thing I've done this week was make a decision to not have a (foot pedal) shift lever. Instead I'll use a "nub" salvaged from the Convert rear brake lever to move the high/low arm if desired.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/12963794_876969262425206_3598313742035367736_n.jpg?oh=f201172d35f9aaba5735329bff20d930&oe=57879CB2)
I'll install another right-side footpeg without the shifter bushing loop on the left.
That decision brought forth another to make: which side do I want the rear brake foot pedal on? I have both set-ups and my '69 is a left-footer which I like better. The left foot pedal is (new-old-stock) aluminum and kind of gets in the way of the starter, the right foot pedal is steel and will need to be rechromed. Gotta' think of some sort of a parking brake mechanism as well.
The first batch of new parts arrived last week (repro battery covers, fork tubes, crashbars, handlebars, Brembo F08 calipers) so in total I've spent around $1000 so far.
That's it - all caught up. Updates will be slow in coming now.
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Slow down Charlie , I can't keep up :thumb:
Dusty
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Do these 'bags make my butt look big?
Absolutely, but nothing else will hold the amount of stuff that DBs will. I had them on the Jack-All rig. If you can't get it in a pair of DBs, you don't need it. :smiley:
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:popcorn:
Lovin' this thread, Charlie! Can't wait to see how the electric pump works out.
Cheers,
Shaun
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Wonderful machinist skills here... too bad this kind of practical work isn't taught in high schools anymore.
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It is probably posted (answer) but why could the OEM oil pump / front cover not be used.
The front mounted alternator interferes with the fender and the belt driven generator interferes with the ATF pump.
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Do you need an apprentice? :bow:
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It is probably posted (answer) but why could the OEM oil pump / front cover not be used.
It can be used, this is the way Mike Tiberio built his Eldovert. But you need adapter brackets at the front engine bolt to mount the engine to the frame.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/moto_guzzi_loopframe_brackets_to_mount_a_tonti_timing_cover_in_a_loop_frame.html
I'm not really keen on that solution, I feel it compromises the overall rigidity of the chassis since the engine is a stressed member to a certain extent.
Another reason I didn't go that way is then you're stuck with the crank mounted alternator. IMO, the stock Bosch alternator is somewhat lacking in output and expensive to upgrade (to 400 watts is around $300, the jump to 450 is another $200). With the Scrambler Cycle alternator kit I'm using, I get 600 watts for $260.
Also, the cover of the crank mounted alternator will interfere with the front fender (using Loop triple trees, fender and braces) unless modifications are made. The rear brace of the fender needs to be moved down and new holes drilled. The fender may also need to be flattened in one spot as well. V700 triples may help since they have 20 mm more offset.
But the number one reason I'm retaining the Loop timing cover is looks. I wanted to retain the stock Loopframe front view aesthetic imparted by the belt cover and generator/alternator in the V. The only clues that my bike isn't just an ordinary Ambassador will be the oil cooler, battery cover decals, the lack of a shift lever and some strange fittings and hoses poking out on the right side of the transmission. :azn: Of course, the square-fin engine will be a huge warning sign that something funky is going on. :wink:
Part of the fun of doing a project like this is trying new things, doing it a bit different (for better or worse) than those who have gone before you.
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Part of the fun of doing a project like this is trying new things, doing it a bit different (for better or worse) than those who have gone before you.
:bow:
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Wonderful machinist skills here... too bad this kind of practical work isn't taught in high schools anymore.
Most of what I know, I learned from my father. He was a welder/fabricator by trade, but could do almost anything. He'd work a 10 hour day at his regular job, then come home and work several more fixing everything the local farmers had broken that day. He built hay wagons for all the local farmers, go-karts for local racers, cut down drive shafts for the hot-rod crowd, built a bunch of garden tractors and related equipment for himself, picnic tables and much more. Not to mention, built the house I live in and the shop I work in. All while raising seven kids.
Almost from the time we were big enough to walk, my brother and I were out in the shop "helping" my father. Earliest memories involve "hold this and look away" while he welded something. Later it was "I need a piece of this X" long" and off we'd go to the power hacksaw to cut it. We spent thousands of hours watching and helping him build things so it just came naturally to us.
Unfortunately, he died way too soon, just shy of his 61st birthday. Dropped dead of a heart-attack, right next to the shop, in one of mom's many flower beds. Wish he had stuck around longer, there was so much more I wanted to learn from him.
A small sampling of the stuff he built.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xtl1/v/t1.0-9/12688187_1562754904046142_5502011088583883103_n.jpg?oh=84e23c870f4034bc669e25196892d977&oe=577EA589)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12651269_1562754870712812_6038290726858995413_n.jpg?oh=c9365daeeaf54606b2c0504eec0aee03&oe=57B7B67D)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/12647164_1562754784046154_5730785145237955204_n.jpg?oh=0bdb3c9b4eae9c3dd82a2d79d290689b&oe=57B92BEE)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/12647075_1562754734046159_4403540212082278146_n.jpg?oh=f1c1dae80b4337d5a5e382dd962ad6d0&oe=57BCB19C)
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Entertaining thread Charlie thanks for taking the time to post it
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I hope you managed to save that sign Charlie. Love the project and can't wait for each installment. Off topic, the stainless oil supply lines from MG Cycle showed up. Thank you for saving me a ton of extra work. No oil leaky now! :grin:
Tom
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Entertaining thread Charlie thanks for taking the time to post it
Yes, sir! Many times it takes longer to document doing something than doing it. This is entertaining *and* educational.
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Dropped the pump mount off at a local sheet metal shop for bending today. They have the same type of huge press brakes that I used at my first job out of high school. Really no way of doing a good job of it myself and the bending brake my friend has couldn't make a sharp bend in 14 ga.
I would have preferred to do it myself and I'm sure this won't be the last time. Thinking about something small and inexpensive to do bending with and thought of this. Anyone ever tried one of these or similar?:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-Vise-Brake/H3245?utm_campaign=zPage
(http://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/h/h3245-ec501858cfaa46573b4e285b5bc8dea4.jpg)
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Yes, thanks for posting Charlie. Especially like hearing about your dad.
Be well.
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Dropped the pump mount off at a local sheet metal shop for bending today. They have the same type of huge press brakes that I used at my first job out of high school. Really no way of doing a good job of it myself and the bending brake my friend has couldn't make a sharp bend in 14 ga.
I would have preferred to do it myself and I'm sure this won't be the last time. Thinking about something small and inexpensive to do bending with and thought of this. Anyone ever tried one of these or similar?:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/6-Vise-Brake/H3245?utm_campaign=zPage
(http://cdn0.grizzly.com/pics/jpeg500/h/h3245-ec501858cfaa46573b4e285b5bc8dea4.jpg)
Yeah. Years ago, I made something similar about 15" long. BIL Harley Bob has a HF 20ton I think bottle press, and it'll bend fairly heavy stuff. I'll take a picture if you want.
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Thanks for the stories and information- it's very interesting following along.
If you are hard up for space and don't mind spending a few bucks, the PDM60 will take the place of fuses and relays. I have one on my Eldo. Power throughput is a little limited, but they work well if you don't have extravagant needs. Or maybe just use it for core electrical draws.
http://pdm60.com
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Thanks for the stories and information- it's very interesting following along.
If you are hard up for space and don't mind spending a few bucks, the PDM60 will take the place of fuses and relays. I have one on my Eldo. Power throughput is a little limited, but they work well if you don't have extravagant needs. Or maybe just use it for core electrical draws.
http://pdm60.com
There's actually plenty of room for Greg's gang of four relays w/sockets and a flasher. I have a Hella 4 fuse block that will be mounted to the tank bracket to feed power to them and other things.
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There's actually plenty of room for Greg's gang of four relays w/sockets and a flasher. I have a Hella 4 fuse block that will be mounted to the tank bracket to feed power to them and other things.
"Plenty of room" he says. Uh, no. More about that later.
Picked up the bracket from the sheet metal shop I had bend it for me. Thankfully, they understood my directions and did it correctly. :thumb: Mounted it up, marked the location of the pump and then held the gang of four relays up to the plate. Room for only two after all. No problem, I'll put the headlight relays inside the headlight bucket the same as I've done on my '69 and '71. Wasn't happy with mounting the fuse block on the tank mount, so moved that to on top of the pump bracket along with the flasher relay. The seat will cover them, so they'll be out of sight. Drilled the holes and attached it all for a test fit.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/t31.0-8/12957535_879949012127231_1851069268880929326_o.jpg)
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/t31.0-8/12967458_879949008793898_1422877394459031261_o.jpg)
The circle marks where I need to drill a hole so that I can adjust the pressure.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/t31.0-8/12957694_879949022127230_3057131413343440178_o.jpg)
It all fits.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/t31.0-8/12973165_879949048793894_3028454498588007275_o.jpg)
Top view. All of it will be hidden by the battery covers and seat.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xta1/t31.0-8/12976807_879949062127226_5379740578405427392_o.jpg)
Almost time to tear it back apart and send parts off for powdercoating, zinc-plating, chrome and paint.
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Pretty darn nice, Charlie.. attaboy. :thumb:
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Lookin' good!
Shaun
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These are the topics on the forum I enjoy most. Nice work Charlie and thanks for sharing your progress. :thumb:
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Charlie, between yourself, Chuck, Rodekyll and Canuck there is a complete "how to" on motorcycle maintenance, restoration and modification.
Thanks to all you guys for taking the time to post; I personally have learnt heaps from your projects. Your skills amaze me.
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^^^^^
fully agree.
keep em coming guys,
very much appreciated
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Motivational bump :evil:
Hope all is well!
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Motivational bump :evil:
Hope all is well!
Spring has fully sprung and with it lots of yard work, clean-up and repairs. Several customer projects taking much longer than they should. Oldest sister Holly passed May 15th after a battle with cancer, she was under Hospice care here for about a month. Been riding quite a bit as well. Not real motivated to do much of anything except ride of late...
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Very sorry to hear about your sister's passing, Charlie. Riding can be good for the soul, so I'm glad you are finding some time to fit it in.
Shaun
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Very sorry to hear Charlie. Hang in there.
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Update: the front fender situation was holding me up a bit, so I did something about it. All of the fenders I had were going to need modification and a good bit of metalwork to bring them up to the level I wanted. So, just on a whim, I posted a message looking for disc Eldo fender braces on the Facebook "Moto Guzzi Bikes & Parts" page and it was suggested that the California II braces and fender would work. Joel Cooper responded that he had the whole works, so after a bit of checking to make sure it could work, I bought the Cal II fender and braces from him for a very reasonable cost. It arrived Saturday, very well packaged and in nice condition. Thanks Joel! After supper I went back out and installed it to see how it fit.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14666107_1008369905951807_3162377973950495751_n.jpg?oh=db3753d663a7b7c973f71de04dd0d3c2&oe=589884BE)
First, I had to swap my lowers left-to-right - I had planned to use modified drum-brake braces and mount the calipers behind the forks, the Cal II fender requires that they be in front. After that the fender slipped right on and I loosely mounted it just at the center. The fit of the wheel into the forks is so close that the bolts securing the braces to the lowers couldn't be inserted until after the wheel is in place. Wheel in place, it looks pretty good, but slightly low at the center mount.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14731111_1008740812581383_3684990773533383626_n.jpg?oh=64361a1c58c24775581495002809909e&oe=58987696)
Sure enough, measuring the center of the axle-to-lower edge of the fender distance on my Ambassador and comparing it to the Cal II fender distance, I found that it's about 3/4" too low. I could cut and weld to extend the center mounts, but that would destroy the (quite nice) chrome plating on them. Instead I will most likely make a simple bolt-on adapter plate to raise it.
The decision I have to make now is: chrome or no chrome? The chrome on the Cal II fender is very nice and it would be a shame to paint over it. However, the chrome totally changes the looks of the front end. I'm leaning towards leaving the chrome at this point.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/14713809_1008740815914716_5814554413867438267_n.jpg?oh=0dcc21c535f0cdd81e99b64d96869cda&oe=58A8621B)
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Guess I should probably rename this thread. After a lot of deliberation, I decided that this project will take a different path than originally intended. I was building this for myself, but now I've decided it will be sold when finished to fund other things. In order to maximize the number of prospective buyers, I think the 'Vert part had to go. Let's face it - there's only a small sub-section of the already small Guzzi population that would want a Convert, much less a Convert drive in a Loop frame. I'll probably keep all of the Loop-vert stuff I made around and might eventually build one.
Anywho, out with the 'Vert transmission and in with a T3 five speed I bought from Dave W.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/15585120_1072605522861578_4972120874012801614_o.jpg?oh=bb867bd58ef97ba8d3a9bb196f6f2210&oe=58DD58F2)
Some modifications do need to be made of course. The T3 rear cover has the casting to support the inner end of the shift shaft, but it's not machined. Plus, the speedometer drive is at a more vertical angle than the Eldo five speed, so a hole will need to be drilled in the battery tray to accommodate it and a smaller battery or different orientation will be necessary.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/15591408_1072605519528245_6985153341727207423_o.jpg?oh=7a0bc9b64d129551ec8dacb65551e090&oe=58E213BA)
From the start I planned to use a Valeo-type starter, which is nice because it will draw less current, making it easier on a smaller battery, plus it clears the battery tray without any cutting.
(https://scontent-iad3-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/15625890_1074208166034647_3429727932109373501_o.jpg?oh=4d201324a9b9f7026959203b43d8881c&oe=58EF47B3)
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Looks nice, Charlie.. I've forgotten. Is that a soda blast finish?
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Looks nice, Charlie.. I've forgotten. Is that a soda blast finish?
Yep.
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Sounds like a great plan for the new intent. As far as the name goes, you can call it "Ambovert-ical T3 angled speedometer drive hole", keeps the "Vert" in there :-)
Happy holidays!