Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Jim C on April 21, 2016, 07:34:48 PM
-
So...
I go for a ride on my recently fixed V7 II. All seems fine for a while. I go to one
of my favorite places for breakfast. So far, so good, although the bike was surging
on starting. Get to my breakfast place, eat, read the paper, get back on the bike.
Start up, the bike stutters, and stalls. Starts right back up, release the clutch,
rotate throttle, bike almost dies on me, have to give it a LOT of gas. Fuel light
comes on (way too early), imho). Get to an intersection, bike dies. Starts back
up, but it seems likes it doesn't start the way it should. It starts kind of slow
(rrRR, rrRRR, rrRRRRRR) then starts, as opposed to rrvroom). Thought I might
be out of gas, since the fuel light came on, so I stopped and got gas. Filled up
with 3.910 gallons, meaning I STILL had 1.6 gallons left. I have no idea why
the light came on so early. (It stalled (dead) twice on me, but I don't remember
where the second time was, but it WAS at an intersection.
I can appreciate a bike with character, but I'd like to actually be able to ride the
thing without having to worry about it crapping out on me.
Anyone got any ideas/thoughts?
Jim :sad:
-
What work was recently done on it?
I hate to send someone to a dealer, but a look with a diagnostic scan tool should find the issue.
Or see a fellow rider who has a private scan tool (Guzzidiag, etc).
-
Sounds like the problem Craig's bike had after the factory update. Nobody at the importer or factory seemed even remotely interested in helping try and sort it. "Wait for the next update." Sez they. No update was forthcoming.
Pete
-
Wow, sorry to hear this, my V7 II runs great and I don't want any "update" to screw with it.
-
As Pete said, the first place to check is to ask the dealer whether the ECU was updated when it was in for service. I'd also check that anything they may have touched as part of the service was correctly reconnected etc.
-
Sorry for the confusion everyone, but the fixing was merely adjusting
the clutch at the gearbox. (Which works great now, btw).
Anyway, haven't done my first service yet, what with selling my house
and getting ready to move from CA to ID. Lucky I had time to ride it
today. I'll have to do my first service myself, since there are absolutely
no dealers anywhere in Idaho.
Hopefully GuzziDiag will have a map soon so I can load it onto my bike
by the time I get up there. This really sucks...
Jim
-
Mark just sorted out a map for Charlie's missus V7 single TB. This is a five speed but I can't remember if it's a wet or dry alternator model which will probably make a difference, (I have no idea why!).
While Craig's V7-II map went well and was essentially straightforward. The earlier bike had a glitch due, as I understand it, to the TPS signal interpretation. Having said that this appears to have been nutted out but MUIG3 maps are in a VERY early stage of development so it's small steps at the moment.
As always. Anything Mark develops promises no stupidly unfeasible 'Power Increases' so if you want your V7 to make 60 RWHP I suggest you go see a charlatan. :grin:
Pete
-
Pete,
Not looking for power increase, just no stuttering, stalling.
All I want is smooth power delivery on and off, no surging
on start-up, no stuttering when I get on the throttle, no
stalling at intersections or stop signs. I would love to see
my bike perform like Craig's 'guinea pig' bike. Looking
forward to reading the results after a reasonably long ride.
I understand about baby steps on the V7 II MAP right now.
Best regards...
Jim
-
Do you have the reader and writer programmes? If 'Yes' PM Mark. I dunno if he's charging for the MUIG3 maps yet. Get in on the ground floor and you can be part of the development process.
Pete
-
What happened after you filled it up? (You didn't note if it happened before and after or only before.)
If only before, did it run ok after fueling it up?
Did you hear an inrush of air when you opened the cap?
Perhaps a tank venting issue???
John Henry
-
I hate to send someone to a dealer, but a look with a diagnostic scan tool should find the issue.
Or see a fellow rider who has a private scan tool (Guzzidiag, etc).
Jim, maybe I misunderstood. Do you have the factory map, or a Guzzidiag map?
If you've factory stuff, then scanning it may show the issue. I don't think you should be changing the map, etc, until the bike is running ok as a stock machine first.
-
Sign216,
It's the factory map. My closest dealer is about 40 miles,
which isn't too bad, but I'll have to put it on a flat-bed
tow truck to get it there. I'd rather not take the chance
of having it stall (aka die) on me on the freeway.
Does anyone have the factory MAP number currently
being used for the US 2016 V7 II?
Thanks for any help... you guys are great!
Jim
-
CM228306 4533V796_V7II is latest
-
Paul,
Thanks for posting the most recent factory MAP number.
Much appreciated!
Jim
-
Wow, sorry to hear this, my V7 II runs great and I don't want any "update" to screw with it.
Ditto.
-
So...
Thought I might be out of gas, since the fuel light came on, so I stopped and got gas. Filled up
with 3.910 gallons, meaning I STILL had 1.6 gallons left. I have no idea why
the light came on so early. (It stalled (dead) twice on me, but I don't remember
where the second time was, but it WAS at an intersection.
Jim, the light on these things comes on early. My 2014 V7 Special is about the same. It comes on at 3.7 - 3.8 gallons consumed every time.
-
Pete,
Do you have the reader and writer programmes?
Not yet, but they're easily downloadable, but I imagine I would have to get
the cables as well.
If 'Yes' PM Mark. I dunno if he's charging for the MUIG3 maps yet.
I don't know what he'll charge for the MAPs, but if it makes the bike run like it should,
(or better), I'll be a happy camper and the price will be worth it.
Get in on the ground floor and you can be part of the development process.
That might be fun —
-
Yup, you'll need cables too. We know that Mark has a map that works but as stated its still a work in progress. PM him, (Beetle.) and see what the go is? All the mapping work is Mark's remit. I'm simply the messenger and trying to explain in simple, easily understood language, what is trying to be achieved.
The aim is not to produce unfeasibly big horsepower figures on a dyno stuffed with pygmy horses. The aim is simply to get the vehicles to run optimally. The other upside to this is that they will also usually be more economical and a lot more enjoyable to ride.
Pete
-
Pardon the minor thread drift...but is it possible to configure the small blocks to run on lower octane fuel through map manipulation? Thinking of possibly riding my '14 v7 through some parts of the developing world.
-
The Heron head actually handles low octane fuels really well but my guess would be that you could pull out a bit of spark and adjust the relevant tables and get it to run just fine on any old lizard piss. Yes, you'd sacrifice some of its already less than stellar performance but it would run just fine.
One thing to be aware of is that the small block chassis will not take kindly to serious abuse of the 'Off Road' kind. Back when the factory was competing in the Dakar with the NTX and the like it soon became apparent that the gearbox mounted swingarm was entirely insufficient. It wasn't the arm itself but the gearbox encase that was the Achilles Heel and as someone else said on another board if it was used in anger, or even mild annoyance, it would snap the encase off the back of the box.
Oh how I wish they'd build a mini Stelvio with the V9 engine and gearbox but a real frame and suspension!
Pete
-
Pete,
So, I understand that I need specific software for the MUIG3-specific to the V7 II.
There's also different cables on the GuzziDiag Tutorial page, but I don't know which
ones I'll need.
I understand that the MAP is not ready yet, so I'll just be patient and wait. Any MAP
that makes my bike run optimally is the one for me, and I look forward to the day
when I can ride my bike worry-free.
Jim
-
The Heron head actually handles low octane fuels really well but my guess would be that you could pull out a bit of spark and adjust the relevant tables and get it to run just fine on any old lizard piss. Yes, you'd sacrifice some of its already less than stellar performance but it would run just fine.
One thing to be aware of is that the small block chassis will not take kindly to serious abuse of the 'Off Road' kind. Back when the factory was competing in the Dakar with the NTX and the like it soon became apparent that the gearbox mounted swingarm was entirely insufficient. It wasn't the arm itself but the gearbox encase that was the Achilles Heel and as someone else said on another board if it was used in anger, or even mild annoyance, it would snap the encase off the back of the box.
Oh how I wish they'd build a mini Stelvio with the V9 engine and gearbox but a real frame and suspension!
Pete
Thanks Pete. Agree, this wouldn't be the right tool for bashing through the rough stuff.
-
Pete,
So, I understand that I need specific software for the MUIG3-specific to the V7 II.
There's also different cables on the GuzziDiag Tutorial page, but I don't know which
ones I'll need.
I understand that the MAP is not ready yet, so I'll just be patient and wait. Any MAP
that makes my bike run optimally is the one for me, and I look forward to the day
when I can ride my bike worry-free.
Jim
Nah. Same cables just different reader and writer.
Buy cables, download Guzzidiag and make a donation to the developers, learn to read your stock map and save it in case you have a problem. Ask Mark nicely for map, he may ask for payment, he may not. Rode your bike and GIVE FEEDBACK! I can't emphasise how important this is! It is VERY hard to help people if they don't give feedback.
I'd also like to add on Mark's behalf because he's far to bloody polite that map development of the sort he undertakes is NOT simple, easy or cheap. More than anything else it is the TIME component that some people either take for granted or seem to consider valueless. It isn't. Really. Hours of work plus fuel and dyno time have gone into the development of the Griso maps and to a lesser extent the other W5AM bikes. To develop stuff for the MUIG 3 will possibly be even more challenging.
No reason to wait though. If you want independent corroboration of what has been done already just PM Clancy!
Pete
-
Jim, it's really not difficult or expensive.
Read the start of this thread just to familiarise yourself with GuzziDiag.
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=69168.0 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=69168.0)
Get the cable interface from here - seriously, FROM HERE! They work, no brainer.
http://lonelec.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_20&product_id=51 (http://lonelec.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&path=57_20&product_id=51)
Download the software from here.
http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ (http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/)
You need
- GuzziDiag V0.47 (This enables you to view diagnostics live)
- IAWMIUG3Reader (This enables you to upload and save the current map in the bike)
- IAWMIUG3Writer (This enables you to download a new map to the bike)
I'm running Windows 7 and it was simple Plug & Play (I know, amazing!)
Start by opening GuzziDaig to confirm you have connection.
Then run the Reader and upload/save the current map. (Make another backup copy if you want) - now nothing can go wrong because you can always re-download the factory map.
Talk sweetly to Mark (Beetle) and offer some kind of recognition for his work!
Run the Writer to download the new map.
Test the bike. Give feedback.
DONATE TO THE GUZZIDIAG GUY(S) - They've put in a lot of effort for YOUR benefit.
Think of it as another way to have fun with your machine.
I've spent my life writing programs on PLC/DDC for factory automated production lines & building management systems.
I wish the interface for every commercial product I've used was this simple!
-
Jim, the light on these things comes on early. My 2014 V7 Special is about the same. It comes on at 3.7 - 3.8 gallons consumed every time.
Thanks, Rocker...I thought the light would come on closer to empty, but I guess not.
Nice to know I've still got some gas when the light DOES come on.
Best regards,
Jim
-
Craig,
Thanks so much for posting all this. I have hope that I will soon
have a sweet-running V7 II that should have had this from the
factory.
All you guys associated with building these MAPs for us, and GuzziDiag
thank you, thank you, thank you. I have to wait now for cables, but I'm
sure it'll be worth it. Compensation forthcoming once it's all sorted.
Hopefully I'll be able to do this before I move...time will tell.
Warmest regards to all,
Jim
-
Get rid of the canister.
Plus, you should have a good 80-100 km in the tank after the light comes on.
-
Jim, when you get your cables, send me a PM and I'll flick you a map. I need a volunteer tester in the US, and I've picked you. :laugh:
All I ask is for feedback and your undying love. :grin:
-
Did the problem clear after about 5 minutes run time or did it persist? If it cleared I'm willing to bet it's a vapour lock in the fuel over flow canister, especially if the bike was sitting in the sun outside your stop point. Recently fueling, even if NOT OVERFILLED can also exasperate the issue. Remove the canister and should resolve the problem.
-
Jim, when you get your cables, send me a PM and I'll flick you a map. I need a volunteer tester in the US, and I've picked you. :laugh:
Beetle, Honored to be your guinea pig in the US. :thumb: Will PM as soon as I get
my cables. They are currently en route.
All I ask is for feedback and your undying love. :grin:
I'll give plenty of feedback when done. As far as undying love?
I'll send cash, but that's the best I can do. :laugh:
Will advise, and thanks...
Jim
-
No payment required. I need a US tester, and that may require your patience and perseverance. Thusly I am indebted to you.
-
Hi,
I was wondering if you have managed to fix the mapping problems?
I have very similar problems with my European V7 II Stone. It stalls when I ride down a hill to my house in a low gear, as soon as I pull the clutch. It will Stutter at startup after I get back on it after a break like a lunch stop. Apart from this the bike always runs nice and smooth. I was hoping that an upgrade to the latest factory mapping would sort the problems that I have had since the bike was new nearly a year ago, but the re-mapping did nothing at all. I had the bike in at the dealer again this week and they confirmed that the problems I have are due to the mapping, but the factory will not support it or trouble shoot it at all because I have added after market pipes to it. I could put the original pipes back on and take it back to the dealer as the problem was exactly the same with the original pipes, but my dealer is 2 hours away and I really doubt that the factory would change the mapping for one bike only.
If there is any way of altering the mapping DIY with the use of Guzzi Diag I would be very interested in doing so. I did hook the bike up to Guzzi Diag last week to confirm that the mapping had actually been updated, but for some reason I was unable to load a copy of the mapping onto my computer with the IAWMIUG3Reader_V0.0 4. I will try this again within the next couple of days.
Any info from you experts would be highly appreciated.
Gunnar
-
Hi to everyone! :bow:
I'm long time reader, but posting first time. We've been having Guzzi's for quite some time in our garage (fathers Nevada and California). I don't know why, but I'm in love with them. Last year I've bought brand new V7 II Special (I am from Europe, Slovenia btw). This is my first EFI bike.
I am having all problems you guys described in previous posts. From the start I thought that I just need to get used to it. Then I thought that this problems will go away when engine break-in will be finished and first, 1000km service will be done. Wrong. They are glued to this bike.
From the factory it came with apparently very bad map 4533V795 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=79115.0 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=79115.0)). Then after a few months I got an email from my Guzzi dealer that a map update is available. It was 4533V796. I can't tell you how happy I was at the time. Went to a 2 hour long jurney to get map updated. And what now? Nothing. Cold stalling is somehow reduced, but it's still there. You have to be very gentle with the clutch and add quite some throttle. BTW, I am always trying to warm it up, but there are situations that I just can't wait. When I am at work for example, I have to drive somehow cold bike uphill from the parking garage... what a project.
I must admit that I have already dropped it because of this (luckilly, I got only a little scratch on the exhaust). What happend? I was trying to park on a hilly road, there was sand, and I had steering all the way to the right. Then it stalled and died (still in gear of course). I just didn't have strenght to hold it. Grrrrrrrr... what an embarrassment. :violent1:
Also, like the Gunnar said. If you drive from very steep hill in first gear and you pull the clutch it dies. Apparently the ECU is to slow to realise that it should add gas.
What to do? I am still in warranty for one year, but I don't expect much from the dealer. Can you guys help me? At this point money is no problem... I just want my bike to run as it should. Can this be solved with custom map from beetle (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=82864.0 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=82864.0))? I'll have OBD cables here in a day or two (already read GuzziDiag tutorial). In case of warranty return... can dealer find out that custom map was there if I write back official one? Can maps be switched as many times I like? Is there anything else that should be done after map change? When you have to do TPS reset and autolearning parameters reset?
Sorry for long post and a lot of (maybe stupid) questions.
I really, and I mean really appreciate any response from you guys,
Thank you, Matej
-
Get Guzzidiag up and running, sort out reader and writer, put dBk killers in pipes, buy Beetlemap and load. Bye bye problem.
Pete
-
Thought I might be out of gas, since the fuel light came on, so I stopped and got gas. Filled up
with 3.910 gallons, meaning I STILL had 1.6 gallons left. I have no idea why
the light came on so early.
Anyone got any ideas/thoughts?
I think the fuel light coming on was a coincidence. I also think that the light is coming on about the same as other Guzzis.
What mileage did you light previously come on?
Every Guzzi I've ridden has the light come on with about 3.8 gallons consumed...
-
Waxi,
So, is the essence of your problem poor running when cold?
I'm trying to get at the real issue, so we can think of solutions.
Joe
-
The issue is that the cold start and air temp correction tables are up the sh*t.
-
Get Guzzidiag up and running, sort out reader and writer, put dBk killers in pipes, buy Beetlemap and load. Bye bye problem.
Pete
Pete, what do you mean with dBk killers? Exhaust is completely stock Lafranconi... Also, is with map from Beetle Lambda sensor automatically disabled? If I upload official one is Lambda re-activated?
Waxi,
So, is the essence of your problem poor running when cold?
I'm trying to get at the real issue, so we can think of solutions.
Joe
Yes Joe, when engine is at operating temperature everything is as it should be. But this excludes steep hill-clutch-dead engine problem. This one remains.
I'm very sorry to be pain in the ass, but can someone explain to me the following questions? -> Can dealer find out that custom map was there if I write back official one (in case of warranty claim)? Can maps be switched as many times I like or something can get broken? :undecided: Is there anything else that should be done after map change? When you have to do TPS reset and autolearning parameters reset?
I buy a beer to all of you guys :thumb:
Thank you, Matej
-
Also, is with map from Beetle Lambda sensor automatically disabled?
Yes.
If I upload official one is Lambda re-activated?
Yes.
Can dealer find out that custom map was there if I write back official one (in case of warranty claim)?
No.
Can maps be switched as many times I like or something can get broken?
You can swap,out maps as often as you like. You will not break anything.
Is there anything else that should be done after map change? When you have to do TPS reset and autolearning parameters reset?
We don't reset the TPS on a V7-II. We reset the autolearning parameters, and if necessary, relearn the throttle position.
-
As Mark says, the system is slightly different on the MUIG3 to the W5AM controller bikes and its this that leads me to describe them as 'Semi' RBW. While the cables still go to the TB I remain unconvinced that the opening of the butterfly is directly cable controlled.
Why? Firstly because, even though there is a stepper motor, the idle seems to 'flutter' far more than any AOI system I've ever dealt with. Secondly there is this 'Throttle Self Learning' feature which is common to all the WM RBW systems and it MAKES THE SAME NOISE as all the other RBW systems when they do the Self Learning. OK, I know that isn't terrifically scientific but all we can do is go on what we learn because, lets face it, we get sweet FA from the factory or WM because we are treated as drongos!
My Feeling is that the Stepper is there only to try and stabilise idle when cold. It does that but all of the 'Oh I have to let it warm up while I put my helmet and gloves on' bollocks is down to the crappy warm up and temp correction tables! Note that people, once they get their bikes started, say it'll idle but its when they try and load it up it all falls in a screaming heap!
Once you reach a certain point of either time or temperature you can see by using PADS, probably GD too, the lambda correction kick in and start the usual stupidness of trimming out the fuel until the motor will barely run, (This really, really, isn't helping the planet I don't believe and I'm 'Greener' than a very green thing!). Once that happens the stepper becomes irrelevant and I think, at least at idle and low RPM, the throttle plate will be controlled by some sort of servo.
Look, I may be quite wrong. But those factors really make me think that it isn't a purely mechanical system but one that, pretty crudely, operates to meet flawed emissions guidelines and does so fairly well if you overlook the crappy warm up and temp correction tables.
At the end of the day there is no reason why any MUIG3 equipped bike need run like a sack of sh*t.
Pete
-
Beetle (I think that is Mark) and Pete for the president :bow:
As far as I understand I have nothing to lose. I don't know why I have waited that long anyway. :violent1:
Mark, this is the one, right? http://griso.fetchapp.com/sell/e28ca3f3 (http://griso.fetchapp.com/sell/e28ca3f3). Can I expect any refinements or this is it (according to http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=82864.0 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=82864.0))?
Will order it when I come home from work...
-
That's the one for stock exhaust. Same map.
It'll run just like Craig says it will.
-
If I understand correctly, the modified map is from Australian bike? Can we expect any differences in running because of (probably) different petrol octane rating? We have 95 and 100 available. Using 95 though...
-
Can we expect any differences in running because of (probably) different petrol octane rating?
No.
-
You may find Mark's and my replies blunt. Sometimes they need to be. :grin:
Pete
-
You may find Mark's and my replies blunt. Sometimes they need to be. :grin:
Pete
Right. I just want to be sure that I won't damage anything. I'm not shi*ting money...
-
You may find Mark's and my replies blunt. Sometimes they need to be.
I'd prefer the term 'succinct'.
Waxi, you won't hurt anything. If you have any concerns, Gunnar is running a custom version of the aftermarket exhaust map in his bike. Please touch base with him to allay any concerns.
-
None of us my friend, if we were we'd be carried everywhere by well oiled Nubian slaves in guilded litters!
There are a lot of benefits to being dull and ordinary.... :grin:
Pete
-
There are a lot of benefits to being dull and ordinary.... :grin:
Well, apparently I am weird since I don't know how this works. Thanks.
Mark, thank you for the map. Will try and give feedback. If I may...
-
I'd prefer the term 'succinct'.
Waxi, you won't hurt anything. If you have any concerns, Gunnar is running a custom version of the aftermarket exhaust map in his bike. Please touch base with him to allay any concerns.
Mark , I notice a new sig line . Are you officially in the business of custom maps now ? If so , well ,
It's about time mate :laugh:
Dusty
-
Mark, thank you for the map. Will try and give feedback. If I may...
Please do. I welcome all feedback, good and bad. I've nothing to hide. BTW, I am working with Gunnar to fix the downhill stalling issue.
-
Are you officially in the business of custom maps now ?
I've been building custom maps for quite a while. I've only just recently 'advertised' the fact. If adding a link in my sig counts. :laugh:
-
I'm back :azn:
Cable from Lonelec arrived and everything went as it should uploading Mark's map on my V7 II. Instructions in his mail were nice and simple ("Throttle" reading was 0.8 so I had to reset autolearning parameters and trigger throttle self-learning).
My findings are similar to Clancy's. Bike runs a lot smoother. Also, as he said, the point of most enjoyable RPM's is a little higher. I have tested starting up to a hill and bike feels quite more "powerful"... no problems here anymore. On the other side (of a hill) it still died when clutch was pulled from first gear, but ok, we are familiar with that. When riding at steady speed of 50km/h engine was very calm. No problems here either. Biggest difference in smoothness I noticed at the point when engine is not pulling but also not breaking. It runs much better and without "jumping". So, nothing but praise. :bow:
I was looking at the GuzziDiag parameters quite a while (btw, is there any "manual" that explains them all?) with engine running. It seems that idle is much richer, because it smelled like frying potatoes :laugh:
Anyway... Mark, could you explain why left Lambda is still reading voltage since it's disabled?
(http://thumb.ibb.co/bMihov/lambda.jpg) (http://ibb.co/bMihov)
Also, there is this fault constantly present: P0611: invalid signal. Anyone familiar with it?
Mark, thank you. If there is anything than I can contribute to new maps just let me know.
-
Forgot to tell that I did relatively short ride. Will write back if anything new comes up...
-
Mark's maps always work :bow:
Dusty
-
Well, this just sucks!! Found the connector behind the air box, but also realized that the cable I received from Loneloc is too narrow to go over the MG connector, so no new MAP for me.
Sent an email to Loneloc as well, so here's hoping that there's some kind of solution to this.
Jim
-
Mark was over in Canberra yesterday fighting with some obtuse and recalcitrant bit of medical equipment and dropped over to Bunged End to pick up The World's Heaviest Rack for the back of his Griso! We discussed this 'Downhill Idle Stall' issue and I have a few ideas but we'll need to confirm and clarify them, hopefully 'Clancy' will be able to assist with that. The MUIG3 is an interesting device........
Pete
-
Waxi, the lambda signal is still there. The hardware still functions, but the ECU ignores it. If you were to disconnect the sensor, you would get a P0135 heater error, but not a P0130, sensor malfunction.
The P0611 is odd. That's an error code usually reserved for Diesel engines. :shocked:
I furrowed my brow last night for several hours in regard to the downhill stalling. I will find a solution, but it might take some time.
-
Jim, are you sure you've found the correct connector? Can you post a pic of the end of the cable you got from Lonelec?
-
Beetle,
Here is a pic of the connector from the bike that I found, and the following couple of pics are from
the end of the Lonelec cable, and no, I'm NOT sure I have the correct connector, but it's the only
one I found. Hope these pics help...
(http://thumb.ibb.co/kQjxov/photo_3.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kQjxov)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gRJOTv/photo_1.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gRJOTv)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/cha3Tv/photo_2.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cha3Tv)
Obviously the middle pic is the bike connector, while the top and bottom are the inside of the Lonelec connector.
Jim
-
Jim, are you sure you're trying the right connector? I can't think of any other ones in that general area but........ Its got a plastic cap on it and should be clipped into a hitch on the back of the airbox. If it looks *about* right but won't clip in, (I've had this issue with one of my Lonelec cables.) take off the yellow plastic diaphragm water seal and the red plastic bit on the end of the plug and try again. No, you shouldn't have to but obviously the tolerances on the cable plugs are sometimes a bit 'How's yer father?'
Ah, just seen your last post. No, that isn't the diagnostic port! The diagnostic port has a small cap over it and should be clipped to the back of the airbox as stated above. I'll nip outside and take a pic of the one on the Griso so you know what to look for.
(https://c6.staticflickr.com/8/7315/27478721261_b4bd7e76bf_c.jpg)
(https://c7.staticflickr.com/8/7561/27516337086_0579f1c52e_c.jpg)
That other one looks like a lambda probe plug!
Pete
-
Jim,
I don't think you've found the correct connector.
The ECU plug on a V7-II is located next to the 'new' fuse box for the ABS.
This new fuse block is mounted next to the top of the airbox.
The plug resides in to a plug holder right next to the ABS fuse and should have a cap/cover on it.
When I get home I'll take a photo for you (miserable shitty rainy winter weather today so I didn't ride to work).
Waxi,
That fault doesn't appear in my bike.
Is it in "New Faults" or "Stored Faults"?
-
Thanks Craig. I don't have a V7-II in to examine so I'm just going from memory.
Pete
-
Jim, as Craig and Pete say, that's he wrong connector. The diagnostic connector only has two wires.
-
You guys are great!! It was right there in front of me! How could I have missed it?
Craig, your description was perfect! I really don't see how I could have not seen
it. Right there, for all the world to see. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
Engine mapping commences either tonight or tomorrow morning. It's been pretty
warm here (Eagle, ID US), as it got up to 100*, and is currently 95* at 6:54 MDT.
Ugh...), so, I'll probably wait until tomorrow. Thanks again...you guys are GREAT!!
Jim
(btw, the other connector had a cap too, with about six or seven horizontal holes, that
exposed the red top of the connector underneath. I just put the cap back on and shoved
it back down into the abyss from whence it came.)
Thanks again, gentlemen...
Jim
(how do I get the connector to 'snap back' into the holder, or does it just 'rest' in it?)
-
Yeah, that rings a bell. Can't remember what that plug is for? Purging the ABS maybe but if that was the case we'd need another cable for PADS :angry:. Never mind, I'll find out.
pete
-
(how do I get the connector to 'snap back' into the holder, or does it just 'rest' in it?)
It just rests in it.
Glad you found it :thumb:
-
Waxi, the lambda signal is still there. The hardware still functions, but the ECU ignores it. If you were to disconnect the sensor, you would get a P0135 heater error, but not a P0130, sensor malfunction.
The P0611 is odd. That's an error code usually reserved for Diesel engines. :shocked:
I furrowed my brow last night for several hours in regard to the downhill stalling. I will find a solution, but it might take some time.
Ok, but this makes me confused. Why right side lambda is reading 0mV?
I have googled the fault code and found description on guzzitech: "0611 - Fuel Injector Control Module Performance -- **This was shown on a '13 V7S - turned out to be an over-charging scenario : 15V at idle**", but I don't think this is the case. Yesterday I've checked the voltage and it is charging as it should. Can this be related with GuzziDiag settings? For the bike I selected V7 Special since there is no V7 II Special option. Maybe any software differences between the bikes?
Waxi,
That fault doesn't appear in my bike.
Is it in "New Faults" or "Stored Faults"?
It's in stored faults. It has been there before remap and remains after. I tried erasing it, but it keeps coming back.
-
Mark was over in Canberra yesterday fighting with some obtuse and recalcitrant bit of medical equipment and dropped over to Bunged End to pick up The World's Heaviest Rack for the back of his Griso! We discussed this 'Downhill Idle Stall' issue and I have a few ideas but we'll need to confirm and clarify them, hopefully 'Clancy' will be able to assist with that. The MUIG3 is an interesting device........
Pete
I'll be also more than happy to help with this problem...
-
Ok, but this makes me confused. Why right side lambda is reading 0mV?
Don't worry about it. It digital gibberish. It means nothing.
I have googled the fault code and found description on guzzitech: "0611 - Fuel Injector Control Module Performance -- **This was shown on a '13 V7S - turned out to be an over-charging scenario : 15V at idle**", but I don't think this is the case. Yesterday I've checked the voltage and it is charging as it should. Can this be related with GuzziDiag settings? For the bike I selected V7 Special since there is no V7 II Special option. Maybe any software differences between the bikes?
It's in stored faults. It has been there before remap and remains after. I tried erasing it, but it keeps coming back.
GuzziDiag can't influence the DTC's (error codes) generated by the ECU. As to why yours is generating a code that has no business being in a Guzzi eludes me. I expect it's caused by some intermittent gremlin, perhaps a bad connection. I'd be checking my grounds.
-
Don't worry about it. It digital gibberish. It means nothing.
GuzziDiag can't influence the DTC's (error codes) generated by the ECU. As to why yours is generating a code that has no business being in a Guzzi eludes me. I expect it's caused by some intermittent gremlin, perhaps a bad connection. I'd be checking my grounds.
Most probably this is false alarm. When I was at the dealer to have map updated to 96 there was no errors on PADS. This was in March I think.
-
Beetle,
Sorry it's taken me so long to post, but between moving,
getting the new house together, and diverse and sundry
move-related things, I just haven't had time. And then I did...
have time, that is. I backed up my lousy MAP (v. 795), and
uploaded your V7 II MAP.
Oh. My. Gosh!!!!!
What a thing of beauty!!! I've ridden my bike three days in a row
(that's the first time I've done that in, well, forever). What
a joy to ride. Holy mackerel. Starts right up, smooth takeoffs,
engine just runs, although I have a little bit of a growl around
3800 RPM for whatever reason, so I'm trying to spend a little
-
Holy mackerel. Starts right up, smooth takeoffs,
engine just runs, although I have a little bit of a growl around
3800 RPM for whatever reason, so I'm trying to spend a little
You seem to have not finished this sentence. Did you have to run and go for a ride, but couldn't wait to finish? :laugh:
Seriously, tell me more about this growl.
-
I was wondering if he'd had to go and spend a penny? :P
-
Seriously, tell me more about this growl.
Well, it's not so much a growl as some 'roughness' at around
3800 rpm. I'm trying to ride more at that RPM, as that seems to
be the only place that it happens. I don't know why...maybe it's
just a quirk in the engine. I'm trying to load and unload the engine
more at that RPM to try and smooth things out a bit in that area. I
doubt if it has anything to do with your awesome MAP.
Other than that, it's absolutely amazing!
Jim
-
Might be a little bit lean in that area. Is it engine speed related or throttle position related? Does it get appreciably better or worse if you accelerate through that area harder or more gently or is it happening at a constant throttle? Roughness is usually a result of a lean condition, (Unless it's source is mechanical.) and that might be either the main map or the delta map or both. Too much spark can also cause a similar roughness but at this time of year for where you are if it was too lean it would almost certainly start detonating at the lean points if it had too much spark.
Pete
-
Jim, did you have to reset the throttle?
-
Out of curiousity, what gear are you in when this happens? Are you in top gear and rolling on the throttle from 3800 rpm or ??
-
Well, it's not so much a growl as some 'roughness' at around
3800 rpm. I'm trying to ride more at that RPM, as that seems to
be the only place that it happens. I don't know why...maybe it's
just a quirk in the engine. I'm trying to load and unload the engine
more at that RPM to try and smooth things out a bit in that area. I
doubt if it has anything to do with your awesome MAP.
Other than that, it's absolutely amazing!
Jim
Jim, could you write some response?
-
Guys, quick non-update:
Pete,
Unsure of throttle position vs. engine speed, although I suspect it's engine speed related.
I need more time on the bike before I can make that determination. I haven't had a chance
to ride for a few days since I've been busy building furniture (particle board stuff in a kit)
and trying to get our new house in order.
Beetle,
When I loaded the new MAP and checked the throttle, the throttle went from 0.9 to 0.8 to 0.9 very quickly, so I figured 0.9 was probably the place to leave it at, so I made no changes.
Waxi,
As I mentioned above, I have been busy with my new house, and haven't had the time to ride,
which is why I haven't posted. Since nothing has changed regarding the bike since the last time
I posted, I saw no reason to post a 'nothing happening with the bike' post. Sorry if that sounds
rude, but I don't know how else to say it. My new house has priority over the bike, but when I
have the opportunity, I will be happy to post the results of my 'roughness' investigation. I should
be able to do some riding this week. That's the plan, anyway. I'll have to wait and see how/if that
pans out. Regards to all...
Jim
-
Waxi,
As I mentioned above, I have been busy with my new house, and haven't had the time to ride,
which is why I haven't posted. Since nothing has changed regarding the bike since the last time
I posted, I saw no reason to post a 'nothing happening with the bike' post. Sorry if that sounds
rude, but I don't know how else to say it. My new house has priority over the bike, but when I
have the opportunity, I will be happy to post the results of my 'roughness' investigation. I should
be able to do some riding this week. That's the plan, anyway. I'll have to wait and see how/if that
pans out. Regards to all...
Jim
Jim, no problem at all. Just thought that you forgot :wink:
Build the new house good and strong, so that Guzzi will be safe in there. :thumb: