Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: toaster404 on May 18, 2016, 12:54:52 PM
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Adjusted at 1000 miles. Noticed improvement. Gradual loss of smoothness. Adjusted this morning at 3300 miles. Several out by over 0.001". Got them all to spec with uniform pull on feeler, so probably + or - 0.0002" or thereabouts. Very distinct and pronounced improvement.
Two plugs were also a tad open.
Suppose the lesson is that until well broken in, might need checks more often than called for.
On the other hand, the Amsoil 60 is still completely clear after 2300 miles.
On a different matter, my VStrom DL1000 was running poorly at low rpm and lagging at higher rpm. It's a used bike I'm gradually going through. Lifted the tank and got to the air filter finally. K&N just about level with bugs! Got that sorted and the bike sounds like it's supposed to now. Checked the secondary and primary throttle sync and found it more than close enough.
Shows that even if the repair and maintenance records show the major stuff, the routine may have been owner neglected.
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Seems like all of my Guzzis have needed at least one valve adjusted each time I did them.
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Not too unusual on a new motor. Once they settle in, adjustments will become less frequent. After around 20K on my other new Guzzi's, they got to the point that they would get checked but not need adjusted more often than not.
John Henry
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I'm going to trust my ears on the need - think I was probably in denial. I also haven't been well. Still managed to get three bikes operating nicely of late!
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Not too unusual on a new motor.
Indeed, I've just rebuilt the top end of my LM2 (new cylinders, pistons, exhaust valves, valve guides, etc.). So far I've done around 250 miles and although it's running fine it has certainly got more 'tappety' and the idle is less smooth.
I plan to re-torque the heads, check clearances and change the oil at 500 (ish) miles as I reckon the gaskets will have 'squished' a little, after which I'm hoping the clearances should be good for a while...
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There is a reason why valve lash is adjustable. There are a host of things that affect why the clearances change. To my mind, unless you have solid causer to, checking the valve clearances between service intervals is really fairly pointless.
Spend a week pottering around town, even on a 7SM bike, and check the clearances and set then ride, fast, from Memphis to Santa Fe. Check them again. You might be surprised.
Clearances on stuff like this is usually measured as a tolerance, an exact setting is simply a way of making it easy.
Ride. Stop worrying.
Pete
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If I set the valve clearance and come back later to recheck, I will disagree with what I set them at most of the time. A tech rep whom I greatly respected told me that was his experience and it has been mine also. An engine that is run with a load on it suffers less problems than one that is just idled around,harder to do on a 1400 I imagine
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Seems to have held fairly stable, from the sound of things. Over 300 miles yesterday, mixed highway (not Interstate) and two-lane secondary roads, including climbs and drops. (From near Knoxville along 411S, over to Chicamauga Battlefield, across Lookout Mountain, over to Sequatchie Valley, then back over by the Watts Bar nuke plant). Perhaps one exhaust valve is slightly louder, not sure. Much better running, and first time I've gotten over 40 mpg on a trip with this bike. After the 411 stretch, it was at 44 mpg! Considering I've been at a stead 36.4, that's pretty good.
I'll go another 1000 or 1500 and check again. It's so easy on these bikes.
My OL did well on her new to her Versys 650. Still thinks it is more bike than she realized. Scared herself over Lookout Mountain, so I started leading her on the hairpins carefully and she did just fine. It is a lot of bike for her. Was hoping to get her on a Guzzi, but this popped up and works wonderfully well, for a rider who likes the wind.
I noticed again that there's much more turbulence and heat on my right shin. The only thing I can see is that big brake pedal!! Have to figure out better shin cooling. Might be a scoop or two in my future.
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Legend has it that every 2 valve big block is noisier on the right side , probably just a silly old tale , but we hear it repeated over and over , at least until the left side is going clackety , then the story goes , "well you know , the left side is always noisier" :laugh:
Dusty
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Mines a left sider. As for estimating how close a measurement is by dragging a feeler gauge that discriminates to .001 inch, my training would not encourage me to interpolate to that fourth decimal place.
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Fortunately I don't get to idle around. Every ride starts on gravel and grass (interesting on the bigger bikes), then little winding steep country roads, and proceeds to something else. The way east curves and varies (known as "The Dragon"), the way NE is country roads or Interstate, the way SW is generally a mix of highway and twisties. To the west, even the Interstate climbs Walden Ridge, and the little roads are much more demanding. I hate to think how little work big bikes get in the flatlands.
Feeler gauges are interesting things. There are, of course, infinite steps between any measurements. My grandfather had me when I was very young run valve adjustments ever more open or closed and see how much I could tell. On the opening up end, from not quite being able to get the feeler through up to getting the next thou through involved several stages from very tight but not pushing the valve open up to loose, but not quite able to get the next size all the way through. I used to distinguish too tight won't go, barely goes clean and oiled, a little push (which I suspect is "correct"), goes smoothly without much push at all, slightly loose, looser, and then the next one goes in. So there are various stages, .00X to .00(X+1). About 4 intervals. Each would be 1/4 thou, more or less. His impatience and yelling certainly focused my attention! On the other hand, I got to run a lathe and a boring bar before first grade. Kept my fingers, too.
The key doesn't seem the actual precise measure as much as making each the same, especially with more than 1 intake or exhaust valve in a cylinder.
Then again, he would solder up jets and ream with jeweler's broaches until the mix was right, and hit the needle on a CV carb with a fine file to settle this or that. I still have his SU wrench and the stamp he used to mark his work on Allisons and Merlins. Miss him.
I'll pull the plugs and check the valves again pretty soon. See how stable things are. At least the plugs look right for a not quite too hot lean burn. A tad on the OK side of lean!!
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I noticed again that there's much more turbulence and heat on my right shin. The only thing I can see is that big brake pedal!! Have to figure out better shin cooling. Might be a scoop or two in my future.
Not sure how much they do, but have you considered the heat shield kit? "Made of polished stainless steel with heat resistant plastic inserts, these shields mount to the stock throttle body protectors and deflect heat generated by the cylinders from the the driver’s legs - very useful in stop-and-go traffic or very hot weather." Code:2S000032
John Henry
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Adjusted at 1000 miles. Noticed improvement. Gradual loss of smoothness. Adjusted this morning at 3300 miles. Several out by over 0.001". Got them all to spec with uniform pull on feeler, so probably + or - 0.0002" or thereabouts. Very distinct and pronounced improvement.
You're saying that the valves having 0.001" clearance over spec caused loss of smoothness? I won't argue with what you found to be true on your motorcycle, but if it were me, I'd be looking for another cause of rough running. (not smooth = a little rough, I assume)
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Have you checked the rev limiter ? :evil: :grin:
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Have you checked the rev limiter ? :evil: :grin:
Wouldn't you need to have a sidecar mounted and towing a trailer to get a true redline indication under torque? :gotpics: