Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: azguzzirep on June 25, 2016, 10:17:59 AM
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I did a little ride today and my bike had trouble cranking when I tried to restart after a short stop. I journeyed on and the bike started twice more, after short pauses, but would not crank over the motor at the last stop, a gas station.
I bumped it and it started and I got home. Put a meter on it and it showed 11 volts. The meter did not change when i started the bike. The battery is brand new and I rode it before .
I checked the fuses and all are good. The relays are new too, and I changed out the first relay with an old.one to see if the new relay is the problem but the bike wouldn't crank so I gotta wait.
The red charging light goes off after the bike starts. How is that possible? Where is my problem?
Thanks 😁
Okay I have the charger on the battery. Shows less than 50%. Later I will check the connection under the alt cover.
Sunday: I charged the battery over night with a battery tenders and it showed 12 volts. It started right up and with a fast idle I got 13 volts. I watched the volts dip below 12 as it crankcranked then climb to 13 v with revs. So now a test ride😀
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I had a charging issue with an EV Touring recently that had me stumped for a while. The battery had died after 12 years faithful service, and I replaced it with another that had the terminals reversed. I bit of shagging around with the cables, and all was good, I thought.
Bike went out on rental and it didn't get very far, flat battery. I took out another bike to the renters, and swapped batteries over to get me home again. Sure enough, it wasn't charging. After checking the alternator and rectifier, I found a join in the cables between the two up under the steering head. This bike was purchased new, so I guess the factory must make this join. Despite it being covered in heatshrink, there was no continuity along one of the wires. Cleaned up the corrosion, and all good again.
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http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
This troubleshooting chart has helped me over the years.
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http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
This troubleshooting chart has helped me over the years.
Nice troubleshooting tool!
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I rode the EV to the next town up the road because they are having an old timer tractor and motorcycles show today.
Weather is cool with a few clouds, perfect for riding. Spent some quality time looking around then went back to the bike. With fingers crossed I thumbed the switch and.....Verroom!😀
Rode home happy. Restarted it two times as I got home. Works fine. In a little while I'll check the voltage. Perhaps the negative cable bolt wasn't tight. I added an extra ground wire while I had it apart, too.
Tom
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Use the chart.
When engine is above 2k rpm it should be at 14V or so.
My alternator died a slow death like that. But, I also have had neg lead issues, mostly loose bolt to the frame.
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Use the chart.
When engine is above 2k rpm it should be at 14V or so.
My alternator died a slow death like that. But, I also have had neg lead issues, mostly loose bolt to the frame.
Okidoki.😁
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Use the chart.
When engine is above 2k rpm it should be at 14V or so.
My alternator died a slow death like that. But, I also have had neg lead issues, mostly loose bolt to the frame.
Yep and 14.8 volts in the t/shooting diagram is a bit too high if you're using an AGM battery. Should be more like 14.2, or it will tend to cook it in the long term.
Ciao
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The first thing to look at, is the headlight On, it won't charge if it's not.
The regulator needs Voltage on the headlight circuit to tell it to turn On.
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Yep and 14.8 volts in the t/shooting diagram is a bit too high if you're using an AGM battery. Should be more like 14.2, or it will tend to cook it in the long term.
Ciao
How sure are you about that threshold?
My recent research into the subject with regards to the OEM Yuasa AGM batteries on the modern smallblocks suggested some manufacturers allow for higher charging voltages on AGM's, and in fact that it was beneficial.