Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: NCAmother on July 15, 2016, 08:32:35 PM
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Hey guys, I'm at the electrical part of my build, (1975 850T) and I want to store my M-Unit fuse box and slim battery and a few other things in a shallow box under the seat. Seams like an easy build, but I don't have a welder or sheet metal bender. I'm thinking aluminum would be a good material. Thanks,
Nate
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Ali with a plastic lining, work out what dimensions you want a plug ali box into google you might be able to find an off the shelf product that will do the job for you.
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Try McMaster-Carr (the source of all things useful) under Electrical Enclosures.
Report back success.
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Thanks guys! I typed Ali Box and all I got where mohammed ali links. The McMaster catalog might be the ticket though!
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Ok, that might have been a typo, so I googled 'alu box' and got some reasonable results :boozing:
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It's real easy. Purchase some thin sheet aluminum (2021 grade) in a 12" X 12" sheet. You can cut the pieces with a jigsaw and bend them easily placing in a vice and using your hand. It will bend nicely and have a straight edge that way. Take the pieces you made up and bond them with JB Weld. For a battery box with a light/small battery it works slick. Very easy. You can shoot it with spray if you wish afterward. Aluminum is so easy to work with. Small screws if you want to insure it holds together after JB.
Make it in cardboard first if you doubt your abilities to visualize.
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Key has the right idea. Use CAD (Cardboard Aided Design) to make a pattern, transfer that to aluminum sheet, cut it out yourself and/or have a local sheet metal shop do the cuts and bends for you. Shearing makes a lot nicer job than cutting and a brake does better than bending in a vise. They can most likely TIG the corners as well.
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Thank Kev, thanks Antietem!
I copied a design of a shoe box, but thinner. The problem was I could not get that last 90degree bend without it looking wonky. The first three sides were easy, it was that last side. But then again, the vice I have has a huge gripping face, maybe a much smaller vice would work, but I think if I don't find something inexpensive online, I probably will go with Antietem's idea and take a cutout cardboard sample to the metal shop. Cant believe I didn't even think of that! :bow:
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We all have our vices. :laugh:
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Go down to harbor freight and get some sheet metal pliers. You probably only need the small ones, about 4" wide. I use them all the time for little jobs. For bigger (deeper/longer) bends get three 2x4's and a couple of clamps. Clamp two of them at the bend and use the third to bend over the sheet (cheap mans brake).
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I think I got them at Harbor Freight. They are magnetic vise brake that fit in your vise. The work really well for quick bending of small items.They were cheap.
this is an example.
http://www.grizzly.com/products/4-Vise-Brake/H3243?utm_campaign=zPage
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Very nice, Lesman! I think I might have to pick up a set.
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Nate, a tip from a stainless steel fabricator I met this summer (he makes commercial kitchen equipment), for the do it yourself crowd he recommended scoring the back of the stainless or aluminum with a zip disc in a hand held 4" grinder using a scrap of steel bar clamped to a bench. Just a shallow cut no more than a 1/4 the thickness of the sheet. With the sheet still clamped to the bench and the scrap bar along the score he then folds up the loose flap, a very clean brake is formed. If strength is an issue he places a couple tack welds across the scored inside 90 degree fold.
I saw several of the custom made stainless steel exterior light fixtures he made in his garage and some other stainless steel items, very impressive, invisible welds after grinding and polishing.
Cheers
Jim
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How big is the box?
I'm getting into 3D printing.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/3D%20Printing/image_zpsnku4tmjg.jpeg)
Relay holder
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/3D%20Printing/image_zpsocrhnjv2.jpeg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/3D%20Printing/image_zpsyiitzsaf.jpeg)
Flasher holder
Model them up using TinkerCAD. Dead simple and free.
I'll then run a few prototypes before getting to a final. That's the beauty of rapid prototyping.
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How big is the box?
I'm getting into 3D printing.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/3D%20Printing/image_zpsnku4tmjg.jpeg)
Relay holder
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/3D%20Printing/image_zpsocrhnjv2.jpeg)
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff192/swooshdave/3D%20Printing/image_zpsyiitzsaf.jpeg)
Flasher holder
Model them up using TinkerCAD. Dead simple and free.
I'll then run a few prototypes before getting to a final. That's the beauty of rapid prototyping.
SLICK!
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A neighbor near my warehouse is a welder. He uses stick , tig and gas to make his living. I needed a new battery tray for a riding lawn mower. He takes a piece of sheetmetal. For the first bend. He draws a line and runs a torch(flame not cutting) on the line.He puts a straight edge on "line". He bends the metal. He whips out this tray in a few minutes.
You can make your box using simple tools or just buy an enclosure. Using C Clamps and angle iron or even wood . You can whip out a box pretty quick.
Another source of boxes. You would need to contact a distributor.
http://www.hammondmfg.com/scpg.htm
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(http://i795.photobucket.com/albums/yy237/Sandbergcal/IMAG1235.jpg)
I made this for my bike with some sheet aluminium and then welded the corners. The U shaped pieces was just small strips of alu I bend around piece of wood.
I'm sure it would be possible to make something similar with a little CAD work and then a small trip to the local welder to fix it together.
-Ulrik
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Have a friend here in that is 3D printing. He's done all sorts of things including the latest- his cell phone holder. Find a guy like that and they would probably print one just for fun of it!
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(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk91/kevdog3019/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/BBE67F29-726F-4869-A75C-EA5297F55BBF_zpskqpjokys.jpg)
(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk91/kevdog3019/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01/980F0562-9723-4D52-B75F-283FDAE6B70E_zpsf6sehhx6.jpg)
Here is a simple holder I made. I mounted upside down (from what you see) in the space under my seat along the sb'd frame rails. Its low profile makes it site unseen. I also sprayed it black. You probably don't need a perfect box I'm guessing, just a holder??
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Nate, a tip from a stainless steel fabricator I met this summer (he makes commercial kitchen equipment), for the do it yourself crowd he recommended scoring the back of the stainless or aluminum with a zip disc in a hand held 4" grinder using a scrap of steel bar clamped to a bench. Just a shallow cut no more than a 1/4 the thickness of the sheet. With the sheet still clamped to the bench and the scrap bar along the score he then folds up the loose flap, a very clean brake is formed. If strength is an issue he places a couple tack welds across the scored inside 90 degree fold.
I saw several of the custom made stainless steel exterior light fixtures he made in his garage and some other stainless steel items, very impressive, invisible welds after grinding and polishing.
Cheers
Jim
Sorry Jim.. but I can't let this go. It will work fine for a light fixture, but will break in short order on a vibrating machine. The FAA doesn't even approve a scribed line on aluminum. I causes a stress riser, and *will* break. Trust me on this..
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I agree completely with Chuck, a potential disaster, I will spare you the details but yield to experience of vibration induced/effects that we aviators have learned, sometimes the hard way.
mike
Man I hate it when my Guzzi breaks down at 20,000 feet LOL