Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: justralian on July 17, 2016, 02:27:12 PM
-
Hey Guys,
I have a much loved 2011 V7 Racer back in Sydney, Australia.
I'm in New York for at least a few months and I wanted to get a cheap
Guzzi that I could run around on.
I picked up this 1975 850T, matching numbers, low Miles, no rust and a new clutch.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/haB58v/c3f4dd44_0bb0_49ad_9a2f_b7ec1ef6080b.jpg) (http://ibb.co/haB58v)
So now some questions:
* Is there a trick / technique with the centre stand? It feels like i'm doing an olympic lift everytime I try.
* The bike currently has no side stand.. is the one on MG cycle recommended?
* Even though the bike has a new clutch, it still seems to ' creep ' forward with the clutch lever fully engaged.
Would this have something to do inside the housing or a simple cable adjustment?
* Rear shocks look very tired.. are the Ikons the obvious replacement?
* I want to clean the bike up.. the visor will come off today, the rear of the bike has an ugly luggage rack..
are there any smaller rear fender options or lighting options?
* Any clip on bar recommendations?
* Any other parts that are affordable and worth replacing?
Thanks in advance for the help guys.. obviously on a budget but would like to resurrect this T a little.
Cheers
Justin
-
You would have been better off buying something different. The price of admission will seem cheap to what actually may need to be done to your new money pit.
-
Hi Justin,
you can start the bike rolling backward and then stand on the centre stand to use momentum to help raise the bike. maybe the shocks are too short or add some preload to raise the rear. IKONs are the standard replacement, but there are options. The clutch shouldn't drag, could be the lever on the back of the transmission, it could be corroded, or need adjustment, or it could be the cable adjustment, there should be some free play in the clutch lever, if there is then maybe it is the lever on the gearbox.
good luck, and welcome to the US
-
You might consider a lower handlebar like a "superbike" bar, without going to clip-ons. I'm using them on my Mille GT and they're comfortable, and put me in a position that balances me against the wind at higher speeds.
-
Centre stand. Don't stand on the tang that you use to put the stand down. It will just bend. Transfer your foot to the end of the stand and put your weight there. I find pulling back on the top of the crash-bar and using my body-weight makes it much easier.
Pull off the bits you don't like, Ikons are a good option for shocks, and just ride it. The T's and T3's are awesome riding machines if you don't mind a bit of fettling.
Good luck, it wouldn't surprise me if you want to take it home with you.
-
For stand, reach the toe of your boot on the back of the curved stand as to keep it planted, pull back & up at rear shock upper mount.
Bike looks fine the way it is(no cost), pass it along for someone else to do when you go back.
Hey, same thing yep
-
RE the clutch , yes probably just a matter of cable adjustment .
Dusty
-
If you have the original round master cylinder, understand that it was originally sized to drive two front brakes. You'll get better brake power and feel by changing to a 12mm master cylinder. At the same time consider changing to a braided stainless brake line. And if you have the original two-nipple F08 caliper, consider upgrading to a later single-nipple F08 (greatly simplifying the bleeding job) or even the more powerful F09.
The double-leading shoe rear brake is difficult to adjust, so it feels like it's always on or off, like an electrical switch. Be very careful applying the rear brake to avoid locking the rear wheel. It's possible to get it just right but it takes a lot of fiddling. Be sure the pivots passing through the brake plate are properly lubricated for smooth action.
FGS, don't replace the classy stainless front and rear fenders!
If the clutch was done, maybe the timing chain was done too? If not you may have the original rubber-shoe tensioner, which doesn't work all that well and should be replaced with a Valtek slipper tensioner. I don't know of a way to check on this without actually lifting the frame to open the timing case.
-
My T3 clutch worked well with basically zero play in the adjustment. Use a feeler gage to make sure some clearance is there but absolutely minimal.
If the cable looks ratty replace it. They are quite cheap.
-
I hope for your sake, that it has had the original chrome-plated bore cylinders replaced/replated/sleeved. Otherwise, that would be the first thing I'd spend $$ on.
-
On the clutch cable, the original lever design ate cables. There's a cheap kit to insert a pivoting keeper that will prevent kinking and fraying the cable where it meets the terminal button. Get it at Harper's.
And if you need to upgrade the chrome cylinders to nikasil, I have a set of used Gilardonis, with pistons, you can have cheap.
-
Thanks Guys,
It looks like it got a new clutch cable with the clutch.
Can someone upload a pic of where the rear indicators are supposed to be mounted..
they are currently on that ugly rack.
-
If the clutch is dragging and is seemingly properly adjusted it may be that the intermediate plate is bent due to incorrect assembly.
Pete
-
B all means take off the extras but dont mess with it, leave the fenders and bars.
These old T's are getting rare and commanding good values in the UK. I dont think you get many cheap ones here to run round on.
Kev
-
Don't dismiss the chrome bore issue. Unless you just plan to ride it until it blows up then just leave it and head back down under?
-
Don't dismiss the chrome bore issue. Unless you just plan to ride it until it blows up then just leave it and head back down under?
How do I know if it's got the chrome bore?
-
How do I know if it's got the chrome bore?
Very easy to check: remove a sparkplug, make sure the piston is down from TDC, insert a "pencil magnet" (magnet on the end of a stick) in through the plug hole and touch it against the cylinder wall. No magnetic attraction = chrome, very slight = Nikasil, strong = iron liners.
-
* The bike currently has no side stand.. is the one on MG cycle recommended?
MG Cycle has had two for sale, the original model and a larger one that requires welding on a new bracket.
I just installed the smaller one. It seems to be exactly the same as the original. That is, not so good. It mounts very far forward and is nearly impossible to deploy while seated (it requires curling my toes under the exhausted header while stretching my leg far forward, and wondering if I'll ever lose my balance doing this). It also allows the bike to lean over too much, sometimes risking toppling if the surface is not right. I find I'm still mostly using the center stand, which is easy enough if the advice given in earlier posts is followed.
I also recommend a superbike-style bar. It really transforms the bike in appearance, high-speed comfort, and suitability for twisty backroads.
Moto
-
Genuinely appreciate the help guys.. I'm sure i'll have more questions as I get stuck in.
Cheers :thumb:
-
Good luck, it wouldn't surprise me if you want to take it home with you.
:1:, start by enquiring how much it will cost to ship back, older girls are more fun.
-
Hey Guys,
Turns out I can't qualify for 6 points of identification as a non-US citizen.
I'll reluctantly have to on-sell the bike. Just wanted to thank everyone for their
help :bow: