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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: tris on July 18, 2016, 06:55:25 AM
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Just to make sure I've got my had around this properly!!!
On my B11 I set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke (inlet having closed on the up stroke) and I adjust the valves on the same side?
Its my age - I'm having a bit of brain fade :embarrassed:
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Treat it like two separate single cylinder engines. Each side has to be set up as you describe. Crank rotates clockwise when viewed from the front.
Pete
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Thanks Pete!
Thinking of it as 2 singles is a great help!
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Finger in sparkplug hole, feel for compression gets you on the correct one - easy enough.
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I never liked the feel for it method because I liked to turn the motor extra slowly (usually with a socket on the crankshaft) and observe the valve motion to be certain I didn't miss it.
So like Pete says, I'll observe and treat each side as its own entity.
I'll add that on my Guzzis I'll make my own timing marks with a Sharpie:
1. One mark on the crankshaft nut.
2. Two marks on the front face of the crankcase assembly - L for the left cylinder and R for the right cylinder.
Now one has to remember that when those marks align, just like any marks on the flywheel, all you know is that the PISTON is a TOP DEAD CENTER of travel, but you don't know if that is TDC of Compression or Exhaust stroke unless you ALSO watch the valves. Which is simple to do since you've got the valve cover off so you can check and adjust them.
Then all you need to remember is the whole POINT of the Compression stroke is to compress the air/fuel mixture introduced into the chamber by the open INTAKE valve, so the Compression stroke starts as the intake valve closes.
Easy-Peasy
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I never liked the feel for it method because I liked to turn the motor extra slowly (usually with a socket on the crankshaft) and observe the valve motion to be certain I didn't miss it.
I like to straw/chopstick/screwdriver down the plug hole even less. That feels like an accident waiting to happen.
I'll get it sorted :thumb:
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I was able to do it visually. It's very hard to get the angle right so that light will reflect off the top of the piston, but when you get it just right it's easy to see when the piston hits TDC.
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Just watch the valves, at TDC on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve is closing while the inlet is opening
Turn it one full rotation from there with something soft down the plug hole.
I put the bike in top gear and sort of knock it back and forth using the back wheel.
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Just watch the valves, at TDC on the exhaust stroke the exhaust valve is closing while the inlet is opening
Turn it one full rotation, I put the bike in top gear and sort of knock it back and forth using the back wheel.
I like the "watch the valves method" as well with both spark plugs removed and turning the engine via socket on crankshaft rather than the rear wheel. I can see what is going on better turning the engine over from the front and it seems more precise. Whatever side I am working on, I just look for the intake opening and then closing on that side, then confirm TDC for that cylinder with TDC tool, straw, peering into cylinder with flashlight, whatever. Confirm that both rockers on that side are loose and adjust away. Repeat operation for other side. I also like Pete's suggestion of thinking about each cylinder independently.
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I like the "watch the valves method" as well with both spark plugs removed and turning the engine via socket on crankshaft rather than the rear wheel. I can see what is going on better turning the engine over from the front and it seems more precise.
Me too.
I just replaced my B1100's left cover gasket yesterday since it was leaking (I bought the MGcycle metal core replacements). I figured I'd check my clearances while I was there (intake was just over 4, exhaust was just under 6 - I left them alone). I found that even in high gear and on the center stand, I had a bitch of a time moving the rear wheel. The socket on the crankshaft was the only way I could get it right. I watched the valves and used a straw.
And yes, I removed the grill so I could lean the tank forward enough for bolt access. That upper corner still a PITA and I could only get at it with a hex key.
Torqued back to 10Nm
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I'v put various parts of my body in the spark plug whole; just experimenting as to what works best. I'm still not sure I have in nailed yet, but I'll get there.
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I like to straw/chopstick/screwdriver down the plug hole even less. That feels like an accident waiting to happen.
I'll get it sorted :thumb:
:1: for the straw. If both the valves are up it is on the compression stroke.
I have used a screwdriver but don't like to. Sometimes the pressure from the springs will suddenly pop the piston up and trap the screwdriver. No problem with a straw.
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I'v put various parts of my body in the spark plug whole; just experimenting as to what works best. I'm still not sure I have in nailed yet, but I'll get there.
I am unable to get any of my parts in there, due to diameter issues - that's probably a good thing. :laugh:
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A TDC tool and a timing disc are useful tools to have if you work on a lot of different bikes and like to time them from first principles or just to check on pre-existing timing marks etc. Timing marks on the cam gears on my Triumph TR6C were incorrect so only way to get it running was to set valve opening timings from scratch. The other nice thing about a TDC tool is that there is no danger of it falling into the cylinder compared to a straw or wheel spoke and they are inexpensive. You can always make your own timing disc by printing one out and gluing to cardboard but I recently bought a nice aluminum one form Motion Pro. Very nice.
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I like to straw/chopstick/screwdriver down the plug hole even less. That feels like an accident waiting to happen.
I'll get it sorted :thumb:
Just turn on the ignition, stick your finger in the appropriate plug cap and turn the engine. When it shocks the s#&@ out of you it's on the money! :evil:
Seriously, it just takes practice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSO0dphXx-w
Hunter
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Nice video, thanks!
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I'll add that on my Guzzis I'll make my own timing marks with a Sharpie:
1. One mark on the crankshaft nut.
2. Two marks on the front face of the crankcase assembly - L for the left cylinder and R for the right cylinder.
Genius !!!
So obvious, I am going to usurp your idea and use it as my own.
:bow:
kjf