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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Yard Sale on August 09, 2016, 12:49:14 PM
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I just picked up a clean 2004 Breva 750 with 5500 miles on it. I researched the hell out of it and small blocks in general here and elsewhere, so please don't tell me to search.
I would prefer a wider, dirt bike like handlebar. Does anybody know of a bend that won't cause the controls to impact the tank at full lock? I'm looking at the Renthal street bar ultra low.
What's a good center stand for the baby Breva? I want to be able to work on the bike and still have cornering clearance. Note I will have a Stucchi crossover.
I pulled the evap canister and its related plumbing. I vented the two tank vents to the ground. I vented the airbox vent (right side) to the ground. Can/should that airbox vent be plugged instead?
I removed the elbow vacuum fittings from the manifolds and plugged them with M6 screws. I forgot I will need them to sync the throttle bodies. DOH! Anybody got a source for non-elbow M6 vacuum fittings?
The forks are the same Marzocchi 40mm used in later Stone and Special models, correct? I may be interested in getting springs and cartridge emulators.
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Lots of questions. I don't ride a Breva 750 so can't help with model particulars. Re vacuum ports, I removed hoses from a 1200 Sport and Griso 8vSE and replaced them with 6mm ports from Motion Pro.
http://www.motionpro.com/search?q=vacuum+port
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Hmm, there are also these...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WJDKT2/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TGC5XRRCX4P2
So either keep in the ones with caps and remove the caps for maintenance or keep in the screws and insert the long adapters for maintenance. I don't like the idea of retaining or losing caps.
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Either will work. I opted for the capped ports for my V11. The threads in the aluminum intake manifold are relatively delicate, and I didn't want to risk them by having to swap out ports and plugs for a tuneup.
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I just put the original vacuum ports back on when I need to sync the throttle bodies. Otherwise I have a couple of button head allen screws in there.
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Check with AF1 Racing regarding a center stand. A great addition to your bike.
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I just put the original vacuum ports back on when I need to sync the throttle bodies.
Unpossible. I cut off the elbows because they would only turn a few degrees before hitting the cylinder fins. Yes, I took a hacksaw and a Dremel to my bike before ever riding it.
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:gotpics:
Unpossible. I cut off the elbows because they would only turn a few degrees before hitting the cylinder fins. Yes, I took a hacksaw and a Dremel to my bike before ever riding it.
Why did you do this? I've had my `04 750 Breva for 10 years and have never felt a need to screw with the evaporator canister? :rolleyes: Put a factory centerstand, crashbars, & Rifle Sport fairing on mine + HB saddlebags, top case. Still have it. :boozing:
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A few more Qs...
What's the best way to lift it to take off the rear wheel? I have Pit Bull front and rear stands but the rear is not going to work.
Does the plastic chin on the engine serve any useful purpose?
Is 87 (USA) octane good enough at 4300+ ft elevation?
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A few more Qs...
What's the best way to lift it to take off the rear wheel? I have Pit Bull front and rear stands but the rear is not going to work.
Does the plastic chin on the engine serve any useful purpose?
Is 87 (USA) octane good enough at 4300+ ft elevation?
You can take the plastic chin off and the higher altitude you go the more higher comparable octane rating the EFI will have. This bike has a closed loop EFI system and adjusts automatically. Be sure to remove both front/rear oil drain bolts when you change motor oil. Unless you put softer rear shocks on this bike than stock your dirt ride is going to be super stiff.
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I haven't futzed with mine since I bought it new. motor has never missed a beat. if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
I built a stand which has two positions on it. With a dohicky that fits on my hydraulic jack I lift the bike up. On position 1 on the stand the bike sits level with the wheels touching for doing the engine oil. Position 2 has the bike sitting high enough up on the back that the wheel can be removed. I find I have to deflate the tire to get it out. The sensor on the swing arm has to be removed (at least I find I have to), and the rear brake caliper removed and hung out of the way. Take the opportunity to grease the drive shaft splines while you are at it. Check the pinch bolts on the gear change also.
Enjoy the ride. :thumb:
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A few more Qs...
What's the best way to lift it to take off the rear wheel?
I wrote a tutorial on lubricating the splines, which also shows removing the rear wheel.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625569987011 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/sign216/albums/72157625569987011)
Also, on the Yahoo group are several similar guides to removing the rear wheel. Go to the group's Link page, under Repair + Maintenance.
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MG_750/info (https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MG_750/info)