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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Edo on August 21, 2016, 06:14:53 PM
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There must be some secret technique for putting the airbox back in the Norge. I cannot get the rubber manifolds onto the throttle bodies correctly so that I can secure them with the hose clamps.
When I removed the airbox, I pulled it out of the frame with the manifolds still attached to it. Was that a mistake? They seemed to be glued to the airbox, but now I am not so sure. It was a royal pain getting it back in.
So what is the proper way to remove and reinstall it?
I have to tell you, working on this Norge is not nearly as much fun as riding it.
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Yeah, it's a bit of a struggle but doable. Practice makes perfect. Be very careful of the airbox drain spigot at the LH rear of the box. It's very easy to snap off.
Pete
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As Pete says, it's among the most difficult things to do well. And be VERY careful (as he said) to not stress that spigot - it's nearly impossible to fix if you break it.
My trick is that I wipe a small(!) amount of vaseline on the forward lip of the manifold tubes - both inside and out. The stuff on the outside allows the tubes to squeeze and slip past the frame members, and the stuff on the inside allows them to slip more easily onto the throttle bodies. You may find it easier to remove the pinch rings and to open and wrap them back into place after the whole thing is back where it belongs.
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As Pete says, it's among the most difficult things to do well. And be VERY careful (as he said) to not stress that spigot - it's nearly impossible to fix if you break it.
We've got quite good at this, not only because others snap the spigot but we've managed it a time or two as well! :violent1:
Went to the local hydraulic hose place and they had some small, stainless, 'Top Hat' spigots. Clean the plastic well with contact cleaner and then file the hole until one of these can be pressed in with a tight fit from inside the airbox and seal with epoxy. Allow to dry overnight and then reinstall carefully next day making sure the hose is in proximity of where it has to be to slip on without too much pushing and straining. Haven't has a leaker yet?
Pete
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We've got quite good at this, not only because others snap the spigot but we've managed it a time or two as well! :violent1:
Went to the local hydraulic hose place and they had some small, stainless, 'Top Hat' spigots. Clean the plastic well with contact cleaner and then file the hole until one of these can be pressed in with a tight fit from inside the airbox and seal with epoxy. Allow to dry overnight and then reinstall carefully next day making sure the hose is in proximity of where it has to be to slip on without too much pushing and straining. Haven't has a leaker yet?
Pete
I'll have to try that. I found a brass barbed fitting that had a threaded back end, and put that in with some JB Weld to seal it. It has worked well enough, but not as well as I'd like. I'd put the thing in a less vulnerable location, but the shape of the box means the oil condensate gathers there when on the side stand. Oh well....
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I just stuck a small Red Bull can under the seat and rerouted the breather hose to it rather than the airbox.
The upside is that oil no longer collects in the airbox.
The downside is that I have to drink a small can or Red Bull about once a year as the can inevitably cracks and leaks oil.
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Another step complete. Got the rubber manifolds on the throttle bodies and it only took two days. Absolutely no fun at all.
Tomorrow will put the tank on and start it, check for leaks, and maybe a test ride. IF everything goes well (when does that ever happen), I will have to figure out how all the bodywork goes back on. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Test ride is what I worry about right now.
Thanks for the help gentlemen.
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Another step complete. Got the rubber manifolds on the throttle bodies and it only took two days. Absolutely no fun at all.
Tomorrow will put the tank on and start it, check for leaks, and maybe a test ride. IF everything goes well (when does that ever happen), I will have to figure out how all the bodywork goes back on.
For the tank, put a bit of vaseline on the round blocks it slides onto, and on the rubber seal strips for the instrument cowl. Leave the screws for this part till last, other than the tank main bolt. BTW, make sure you use the shorter trim screws for the tank and the ones with the slightly extended tips for the lower side sections. For the lowers, start on the right side putting stuff back on, and work through to the chin cowl and then the left side parts. When attaching the machine screw (bolt) points to the block, remember to reinstall any shields. washers or extensions you removed. Go back to the screws that attach the tank to the cowling, and the instrument cowl to the side pieces. Double-check all the screws for tightness, but don't go crazy.
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Another step complete. Got the rubber manifolds on the throttle bodies and it only took two days. Absolutely no fun at all.
Tomorrow will put the tank on and start it, check for leaks, and maybe a test ride. IF everything goes well (when does that ever happen), I will have to figure out how all the bodywork goes back on. But I'm getting ahead of myself. Test ride is what I worry about right now.
Thanks for the help gentlemen.
Hey Edo -- I feel your pain !!
I've had the tank off twice and fairing off 3 times on my '12 Norge in the past year !! One time to "rollerize" it, once to balance the throttle bodies, and once to replace a leaking oil pressure switch.
I can tell you after you do it a time or two it goes alot faster ! Don't get frustrated, its worth it, they are great bikes to ride - (Although if anything else goes wrong with mine I may have to re-evaluate :wink:)
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My wife hates it, but her heavy duty blowdryer really makes those rubber parts softer ;-)
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My wife hates it, but her heavy duty blowdryer really makes those rubber parts softer ;-)
I went to the craft store with my wife, and bought one of those crafter's heat guns. Not only does it work great for softening rubber, but it makes quick work of shrink tubing (which I use the way Red Green uses duct tape!). It also focuses the hot air better than a hair dryer.
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Well, got the tank back on today, almost. Couldn't get it all the way forward, so had to leave out the metal grommets so I could get the tank bolt in the hole. Should make the rest of the body more interesting to fit.
While everything was off, I replaced the oil pressure switch, air filter, and did a cannesterectomy.
Took it out for a test ride, seemed to run OK, no more leaks. Will do another tomorrow before the rest of the bodywork goes on.
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Has the Norge got the plastic trim at the front of the tank that you sort of have to spring out to get around the coils?
If yes, I was fighting to get the tank forward on my B11 and eventually saw that the plastic trim on one side was up against the oil cooler - sorted that and the tank slid straight into place!
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Well, got the tank back on today, almost. Couldn't get it all the way forward, so had to leave out the metal grommets so I could get the tank bolt in the hole. Should make the rest of the body more interesting to fit.
While everything was off, I replaced the oil pressure switch, air filter, and did a cannesterectomy.
Took it out for a test ride, seemed to run OK, no more leaks. Will do another tomorrow before the rest of the bodywork goes on.
Edo, I use an automotive screw jack and a piece of 2x4 between the tank and the rear grab bar mounts to push the tank forward enough to line up the tank bolt. Works great and and it solved a major problem with getting the tank back on. No way could I push the tank forward enough by hand. If you have a jack and a piece of 2x4 you should be able to line things up if you are a little creative.
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I haven't put the bodywork back on yet, I might just have to try that.
Last two days have been for test rides. Seems to be running alright, but have been finding a little oil at the bottom of the alternator belt cover.