Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: antmanbee on August 26, 2016, 07:25:13 PM
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On my 07 Cal Vin I have been playing with Guzzidiag and Tunerpro to see if I can get the Cal Vin to run as smooth as my old T3 or Convert did at lower RPMs.
The Cal Vin pulls really strong above 3500 but bucks and coughs occasionally in the 1500 to 3000 range. When riding in town I want to keep the RPMs a bit lower especially since it is geared so tall compared to the T3.
I have stripped most of the excess weight off the bike, like the windscreen, bags, mounting hardware, rear crash bars, driving lights and all the cover plates that cover the lovely Tonti frame. I haven't weighed all the stuff I took off but I bet it's 50lbs.
So far I have backed up the ECU map and and shut off the O2 sensor and re flashed the ECU. I don't know if I have to reinvent the wheel and tweak my map and experiment or if someone has maps to share that are already dialed in for the Cal Vin dual plug head engine.
Besides the weight removal I have removed the airbox. I know there is some controversy regarding this, but I hate that airbox. It blocks everything and makes it difficult to service and looks terrible.
I have left the velocity stacks that went into the airbox intact. I also removed the canister and redid the plumbing.
I bought the bike not running due to a poor repair at a Harley shop that didn't know Guzzis. They had replaced a submersible fuel hose inside the tank with a hose that was not made to be a submersible hose and it was all swelled and leaking. I fixed that and relocated the filter outside the tank.
I have balanced the throttle bodies and set the TPS, and replaced the plugs and plug caps with NGKs and adjusted the valves.
All in all it runs OK but I am not happy with the low RPM performance.
So if anyone has any advice or maps to share or recommend, I would very much appreciate it.
I have included a few pictures of some of the mods I have done and the bad hose.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hcT0rF/1_Bad_Hose.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hcT0rF) (http://thumb.ibb.co/ctkfrF/6_Fuel_Filter_Relocated.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ctkfrF) (http://thumb.ibb.co/nvSh5a/IMG_0506.jpg) (http://ibb.co/nvSh5a) (http://thumb.ibb.co/iCS4Jv/IMG_0507.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iCS4Jv) (http://thumb.ibb.co/ftbLrF/IMG_0514.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ftbLrF) (http://thumb.ibb.co/fdxh5a/IMG_0516.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fdxh5a) (http://thumb.ibb.co/cpypka/IMG_0520.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cpypka) (http://thumb.ibb.co/hEoYBF/IMG_0525.jpg) (http://ibb.co/hEoYBF)
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other than noise I think your air filter is fine.. good to save the venturi tubes. what's the red filter?
did you cap off the manifold ports after removing the evap canister? or run a link hose between them? or is the red filter connected to that? if so you have a vacuum leak..
the lower rev's can be smoothed out, my Bassa ran perfect in slow mode.. (and High)..
what is the trim set at? not sure what it's called in Guzzidiag but there was a fuel trim setting on VDST that helped me dial in the Bassa.. (15M)
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Um, you do know not to lug a Guzzi motor? It's not like a Harley having all the torq below 3500 rpm..
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I still use the in-frame breather. The filter is just there so that any air that may get sucked into the frame and crankcase is filtered. It is attached to the line that went to the canister. I blocked the 2 vacuum fittings on the manifolds.
Is the trim you are referring to the mixture screw on the ECU? the 15rc does not have that as far as I know.
I think Guzzidiag has a function for adjusting mixture. I think it's called CO trim.
I'm not sure but I think if I adjust the CO trim it affects the whole RPM range, when I may only need to modify the fuel map at certain RPMs.
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look into that cause yes the CO trim is what I was meaning to say..
you need Paul or others to answer this thread..
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I had one other question too.
I still have 1 or 2 H-crossover pipes from a Convert or T3 buried somewhere in my garage. Are these a direct replacement to the Cal Vin crossover? I don't need the O2 sensor.
Thanks
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the headers might be larger OD? on the Cal Vin.. not sure but if it fits it would be an excellent replacement for the middle muffler..
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I guess I could measure the diameter of the pipes (if I can find it), but I was also concerned about the length front to back and the width if they were marginally different. I'd hate to pull it apart to find a minor difference that would prevent it from fitting.
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^antmanbee
got the measurements of your t3 crossover?
I can check it against the stock cali vintage crossover thats spare in my garage
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Thanks, Lazlo
I will dig out the H pipe this afternoon. It is buried in my garage in a box.
Lazlo, I think I remember reading in a couple of threads that you have some experience with modified ECU maps. Do you have any recommendations?
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I had really good results by just having my wrench upload the latest FI map. The low speed performance (like taking off from a stop) was terrible as stock, making clutch modulation difficult. I still get a bit of pinging if I am not careful with my clutch, but the updated map made a huge difference.
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I am among the least mechanically minded folks here. You've taken off the airbox and opened up the exhaust, aren't these the kind of mods that increase top end power by sacrificing bottom end torque?
No doubt a tune might might help but even in stock form these engines run better over 3500 rpm. You might consider changing the rear end with a performance gearing. I don't see how you can gain more low end with a tune other than fine tuning the available throttle response (how much available is the question).
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Sheepdog,
I would like to try the latest map (.bin). Do you know where I can download it? That may be all I need. The bike runs pretty decent with good response above 3-3500. I just live in an area where the speed limit around town in many places is 25mph and I would like to have better low rpm response. I am not interested in lugging the engine on the open road, I just need smooth throttle response at lower rpm in town for low speed low power maneuvering.
Lowryter,
I am running the stock exhaust. I was considering changing the crossover pipe but have not done so yet. For me the purpose of that change would be ease of access to under the bike for maintenance. I don't need to gain more low end power, I just want smooth throttle response without any occasional bucking or backfire. The bike has already been tuned as outlined in my original post.
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I am among the least mechanically minded folks here. You've taken off the airbox and opened up the exhaust, aren't these the kind of mods that increase top end power by sacrificing bottom end torque?
No doubt a tune might might help but even in stock form these engines run better over 3500 rpm. You might consider changing the rear end with a performance gearing. I don't see how you can gain more low end with a tune other than fine tuning the available throttle response (how much available is the question).
my EVert had no problem after opening exhaust and pod filters.. could chug along very slow with smooth rev's all the way through..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gow4iwqwLJc
wish I had kept it..
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Does anyone know if there is a hosted library with Guzzi ECU maps (.bin files) that can be shared, uploaded and downloaded? If there is not one it should be created. It could be categorized by ECU type, model, year, with a comment section where people who have tried it can give feedback on the maps, what was changed in the map from the factory map, and also list mods they have done to their bikes.
I have searched quite extensively and have not found anything.
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^antmanbee
yes I have an opinion regarding the cali vintage maps based a lot on real world experience of 2 cali vintages. I fear it will not be popular.
In a nutshell,
1-I get 50mpg and my bike pulls like a train and practically never pinks if I run it with carbs instead of FI.
On the downside you get a stiffer throttle.
2-The Calvin airbox is a piece of junk.
according to some on this forum opening it up gets you no appreciable gains.
according to others running it with no lid is the way to go.
I had to change my main jet by 7 sizes to compensate for the difference between running the airbox and pods. I think that means its just a wee bit restrictive.
Running the airbox with no lid nets a horrific intake sound, loud enough to permanently damage your hearing, even with earplugs (mine are top of the range plugs moulded to fit my ears)
Decent pods (K&N V11 sport) are absolutely great, albeit a tight fit and give you a nice classic guzzi intake sound.
Of course, you have to change your fuel tank, (good opportunity to retrograde to a 24 litre tank) but apart from that there's really nothing to the conversion. The ECU will happily run your ignition and nothing else.
After 4 years of attempting to tune the marelli FI system on 2 different Calvins, including trying the expensive californian map option, I have to say that my bike never ran nearly as good as it does now on carbs. (to be fair you could tune it to run well, but I got about 31mpg in achieving that...)
FI SHOULD be better, but personally I ran out of patience. And as yet, there's no evidence of a Calvin returning decent mpg and performing well....
Oh, and on the calvin, your intake manifolds are stupidly narrow. spend a few happy hours with a dremel.
I'll run for cover now.
YMMV
Lazlo
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Lazlo,
I appreciate your candid response. I doubt I have 4 years of patience. When I first got the bike I gave some thought to carbing it, but after getting it running it is not too bad with the FI, but not good enough. Logically it seems that FI should be able to be better. At this point I am going to give the FI some more effort, but I do miss the throttle response of my T3 with 30mm square slides.
I am not going back to the airbox ever. I like my setup with the UNI foam looped between the 2 stock velocity stacks. Easy and cheap. When it comes time to clean and re oil it, I can just toss it if I want because it was only $12-13 and replace it.
At this point I have no idea of my MPG as I only have about a hundred miles on it since getting it running. The power is really good above 3500, way stronger than my old T3. I think the Cal vin makes about 15 more HP and 20 ft lbs more torque.
What carbs do you run on yours?
Do you have the maps that you tried and were not quite right?
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Following this with interest. My 03 EV is similar.
Very unusable between 2500-3000ish rpm. Give the local speed limit in town is about 2700 in 2nd it makes it very annoying to ride in town.
It also does the occasional splutter when running from idle to that rpm range. Like a miss.
Runs fine above 3000 but I can't ride around at 50kmh in first all the time.
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my EV sputters and surges at low throttle cruising at 3k area. Especially when cold. I think it's an ignition ghost. It started with a bad TPS 3 years ago and despite lots of work, tune ups and improvement, it has never gone away.
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I think the EVs use the 15m ecu. But it is likely that they have the same problem at lower RPMs from a similar map that is not quite right. If we can get a map that corrects the problem for either the 15rc or the 15m, it is likely that the maps can be compared and modified and fixed for both.
I recall reading in a guzzi thread somewhere that the ecu from an 1100 sport installed in an EV greatly improved the response.
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I recall reading in a guzzi thread somewhere that the ecu from an 1100 sport installed in an EV greatly improved the response.
I recall that too but can't remember much about it.. maybe a call to Moto International worth it?
something set wrong with your bikes guys, my 1999 Bassa (15M) could purr nicely at any revs..
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I slightly modified my map in TunerPro only adjusting the ignition advance curve by retarding the timing about a degree across the rpm range between 1350 and 3000rpm. Raining here today so I have not had a chance to try it.
Sheepdog, do you have what you need to back up your latest map and share so I could compare to what I have?
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I'm certainly no expert, but my 08' Cali runs fine at the rpm's everyone is concerned about here. I've always relied on these instructions:
http://www.bikeboy.org/tpssetting.html each time I do the tune routine.
Given the concerns, I wonder if point#9 in these instructions are relevant to your problem. It sounds as if some variation in MV adjustment might make a difference in lower rpm operation (assuming you are not using proper diagnostic software), perhaps because the engineering of the machine isn't completely accurate.
At any rate, I guess I'd be fiddling with this before making all the changes being discussed here. I know it worked for me after enduring the sputtering and farting at low rpm's when I first got the bike.
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Step #9,
9/ Once you have 150mV with the throttle fully closed, wind the throttle stop screw (9) in again until you get the desired voltage for idle. The manuals give the reading in degrees of throttle opening, which you read via the diagnostic software. The spec is 3.2 to 3.6 degrees. Nominally, this corresponds to 486 to 528mV. The relationship is mV = (degrees x 105) + 150. Although, the ecu doesn’t always read this the same. No idea why. You might set the throttle stop screw to, say, 486mV, but via the diagnostics you’ll get 2.9 degrees instead of 3.2. Or 3.5. Just the way it is. I usually go by degrees, not mV.
Mine is adjusted to .515 by my DVOM and shows .470 in Guzzidiag. I don't recall the degrees in Guzzidiag. I'll recheck, but I think I would have noticed if it was off.
dlapierre,
Do you have the map (.bin file) from yours that you could send to me? Mine is an 07 and yours an 08, maybe the map was changed. I have no other maps to compare to.
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I have literlly hundreds of itinerations of maps....
When I get a moment I'll dig through the notes and see if I can dig anything out for you.
Meinholf wrote an absolutely brilliant map for his cali, but it was running the older xdf format so not directly tranferable alas.
My carbs were pretty much spot on with the first common sense jetting I tried with a combination of whatever needles and jets I happened to have lying around. Useful still having the wideband sensor on there for carb tuning.
Another positive, I can now use 95 fuel, or the cheapest stuff they have,. wih the FI anything other than 98 would give the bike the screaming pinking heebie jeebies. And quite often bad old 98 is worse than good fresh 95.
Also, the v11 map is way too advanced for the dual plugged cali motor
good luck with it all... (or buy a griso and get beetles map on there if you want a FI guzzi, reputed to be excellent)
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I have seen several threads with posts by Meinholf and he seem to have a very good understanding of all the parameters. Was his Cali a dual plug?
The tunerpro opens both xdf and bin. Is there not a way to transfer data from one to another or save as to a different format type?
I really appreciate you looking through your maps and notes to see what you can find.
What type/size carbs are you running?
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I don't have any map. It's completely stock...the way it came.
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I'm on dellorto PHM40s....
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Does anyone know the rpm and/or throttle percentage where the map changes from closed loop to open loop? It seems to me, possibly, that the factory tune in closed loop on the O2 models is not as polished as it should be.
under 3000 rpm poor running seems to be a very common complaint. I just fitted an H pipe to mine, removing the cat. I've had limited chance to test it, but that seems to make the under 3000 rpm running WORSE. Now is that due to altering exhaust tuning? I doubt it. But what about the flow around the O2 sensor? Maybe...
Once I've done the TPS settings and balanced the TB's (PO was pretty on to that stuff though) I'm thinking I need to look at the O2 sensor operation.
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What bike and ECU do you have? Most of the posts in other threads and forums by others that have O2 sensors and are modifying their maps, turn off the sensor with Tunerpro.
Definitely do your TPS and TB sync before anything else.
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Antman:
Sorry for the slow response. I've been pretty busy...
I am not sure what map got loaded; only that it was updated by a Guzzi technician at a Guzzi dealer. I think it got done in May of 2010. My Vintage is also a '07. It improved cold starts and low-speed throttle response, but dropped the mileage from 47mpg to 42. Pete Roper has all the info re updated maps...perhaps he'll join in.
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Antman, what is the map you have now? Look leftbottom in guzzidiag screen, I have all, but need an emailaddress to send you something.
You can have:
61601.048.01 3D09CB23
61601.398.00 3D09C28P
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I don't have the bike connected to Guzzidiag right now but my original map loaded in Tunerpro says in the ECU Model field: 6160139800 and in the Map Name field: 3D09C28P
Thanks very much pauldaytona.
I'll PM you the email address.
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I don't have the bike connected to Guzzidiag right now but my original map loaded in Tunerpro says in the ECU Model field: 6160139800 and in the Map Name field: 3D09C28P
Thanks very much pauldaytona.
I'll PM you the email address.
Then there is no newer map, but I send you a few different maps, nice to try what happens, and see differences between maps in tunerpro.
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Are all those maps for the 15rc?
I assume that a map for a 15m can not be loaded on a 15rc. A 15m map is useful for comparison and then manually modifying the 15rc map to something similar, Correct?
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Are all those maps for the 15rc?
I assume that a map for a 15m can not be loaded on a 15rc. A 15m map is useful for comparison and then manually modifying the 15rc map to something similar, Correct?
15m does not fit on 15rc ecu, but if you can open them in the 15rc xdf it is 15rc. I think they all are 15rc.
What do you see in the area where it isn't ok, as lambda value from lc1?
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15m does not fit on 15rc ecu, but if you can open them in the 15rc xdf it is 15rc
That makes sense.
I'll have to open them tonight, got to go to work.
Thanks
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Does anyone know the rpm and/or throttle percentage where the map changes from closed loop to open loop? It seems to me, possibly, that the factory tune in closed loop on the O2 models is not as polished as it should be.
under 3000 rpm poor running seems to be a very common complaint. I just fitted an H pipe to mine, removing the cat. I've had limited chance to test it, but that seems to make the under 3000 rpm running WORSE. Now is that due to altering exhaust tuning? I doubt it. But what about the flow around the O2 sensor? Maybe...
Once I've done the TPS settings and balanced the TB's (PO was pretty on to that stuff though) I'm thinking I need to look at the O2 sensor operation.
The factory crossover is not a catalytic converter. According to Mssr. Roper, the cat is in the mufflers. Apparently, the fuel injection mapping on the Vintage is a hybrid. It operates on a closed loop up to 3,000 rpms, but after that it changes to an open loop system. Lots of Vintage owners spring for the GuzziTech re-flash of their CPU. The re-flash eliminates the closed-loop portion of the map and allows open-loop mapping similar to the type used on V1100 Sport from 1995-2000.
http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-rx-ecu-re-flash-services/
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Just follow the link at the bottom of pauldaytona's post and there is everything you need to back up, turn off the O2 sensor (make open loop), modify your fuel and ignition maps + more, and then reflash the map to the ECU. It is all available for free (or an optional donation) and it is easy to do.
I will make available maps that I modify if someone requests it. I am at the beginning stages of this process and will post my progress here.
The more people working on this, the more and better options for ECU maps.
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The factory crossover is not a catalytic converter. According to Mssr. Roper, the cat is in the mufflers. Apparently, the fuel injection mapping on the Vintage is a hybrid. It operates on a closed loop up to 3,000 rpms, but after that it changes to an open loop system. Lots of Vintage owners spring for the GuzziTech re-flash of their CPU. The re-flash eliminates the closed-loop portion of the map and allows open-loop mapping similar to the type used on V1100 Sport from 1995-2000.
http://www.guzzitech.com/store/product/gt-rx-ecu-re-flash-services/
Hmm really? That's interesting, it sure looks like a cat! and does less for engine noise than the mufflers. Replacing it didn't really get the noise gain I was after!
I've heard a lot of the Guzzitech tunes, I'm just not keen to try a custom tune done for a different markets fuels.
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Change the cross over to get rid of the 02, put in a V11 sport ECU and be done with it.
You'll be glad you did
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Hmm really? That's interesting, it sure looks like a cat! and does less for engine noise than the mufflers. Replacing it didn't really get the noise gain I was after!
I thought the same, but Pete set me straight. Like you, I like to have just a little rumble...nothing obnoxious, but a bit "throat-ier". Along with a Mistral H-pipe, I cut three 1" holes in my airbox lid and popped in three airbox vents (I did a bit of dirt biking before I got all old). This gave my Vintage the sound I wanted to hear while riding, without abusing my community. It also made my bike a little freer breathing without completely removing the airbox lid. I also tried Mistral SS mufflers, but they were too free-flowing for my FI map and produced way too much popping when decelerating. They looked great, but I went back to the stockers.
http://www.motosport.com/UNI-Air-Box-Vents
(http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c229/JamesBagley/6d07cc5b1d9eaafdbd9114325a35df65.jpg)
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Just follow the link at the bottom of pauldaytona's post and there is everything you need to back up, turn off the O2 sensor (make open loop), modify your fuel and ignition maps + more, and then reflash the map to the ECU. It is all available for free (or an optional donation) and it is easy to do.
I will make available maps that I modify if someone requests it. I am at the beginning stages of this process and will post my progress here.
The more people working on this, the more and better options for ECU maps.
Thank you, Antman and Paul. I will follow your progress with great interest.
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Sheepdog, your bike looks nice.
I like the sound of the intake with a more open setup. My pipes are stock and I don't like them loud, but just a bit more would be ok with me.
I tend to like my bikes with less chrome and un-fared, in other words, just the basics. I still need to change the handle bars to a more euro or superbike style.
I just need a set of 7/8 inch clamps, as mine are for the Guzzi fat bars.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/mvrEJv/IMG_0534_001.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mvrEJv)
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like that the rear fender looks way to much back, need to move 4 inches forward to fit the wheel better
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like that the rear fender looks way to much back, need to move 4 inches forward to fit the wheel better
I think it looks that way because it is on the center stand. It looks more normal with weight on the rear. I don't think there is any adjustment for the fender anyway.
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My bike wears the Stone touring bars (from an '82 Cal Stone). They are also 30mm in diameter, but are lower and narrower than the beach bars.
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Sheep Dog do you still have the Mistral Mufflers?
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No...I sold them to a member of this forum some years ago.
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I have been busy comparing maps and trying them and testing them the last few days with quite good success. The best map for my Cal Vin 15rc is a V11_LEMANS_CAT_MY03 from pauldaytona. It smoothed out the powerband at all RPMs. The bike runs great at low RPMs, very smooth at slow speeds with never a cough, hiccup or backfire. After a lot of riding this weekend, the only thing that could use some improvement is some pinging under hard acceleration from 2500-3000 in 4th or 5th. I am modifying the ignition map slightly to see if I can improve that.
Also the engine seems to run about 8-9 degrees cooler with the new map.
I am so much more happy with the bike now.
I also uploaded a new map to a friends 2001 Jackal 15m today and he is experiencing a similar much improved drive-ability.
The map we used on that was from Meinolf.
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under hard acceleration from 2500-3000 in 4th or 5th.
UMmm, that would be lugging your motor..you need to rev more before shifting..
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Okay. I need to get busy and start looking at GuzziDiag...
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Where are people getting these maps from? Link?
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Where are people getting these maps from? Link?
They are not in the internet, but they can be passed around as much as anyone likes.
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UMmm, that would be lugging your motor..you need to rev more before shifting..
I agree that ideally one would want to down shift a gear or two for passing or brisk acceleration. But the engine is very comfortable at around 3000 RPM for just cruising at a steady speed.
This motor makes almost it's peak torque from 2k up to 7k, and producing close to half it's max HP at 3000 RPM. The bike should be able to roll on the throttle at this RPM to accelerate also, if so desired.
See this thread for dyno info.http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=28424.0 (http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=28424.0)
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No offence intended but the intake setup looks to be fighting itself. One cylinder tied to the other without a plenum goes against everything I have experienced with engines since wheels were wood. Separate them with pods. My Mille runs them with excellent response everywhere. (Carbs) My V11 trundles along nicely at 2K, second gear in the hood. Gentle roll on with nary a hiccup. Above second gear, I keep it at 3k or above. The Sport 1100 does not like to accept throttle below 3K-40mm carbs.
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The best map for my Cal Vin 15rc is a V11_LEMANS_CAT_MY03 from pauldaytona.
snip.....
After a lot of riding this weekend, the only thing that could use some improvement is some pinging under hard acceleration from 2500-3000 in 4th or 5th. I am modifying the ignition map slightly to see if I can improve that.
So you are running a single spark plug map, in a twin plugged motor?
Wouldn't the Lemans timing need to be retarded a good bit to be safe?
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redrider,
Why would I take offence? I think you may not understand my intake setup. They are no more tied together than pods or the factory airbox. I am using the factory velocity stacks that went into the airbox, and then I am putting a foam sock that allows air from any direction over the tubes. It is open from all directions and is really no different than those tubes going into a box with the air coming from a filter above. One throttlebody is not sucking the air out of the other throttlebody.
I have used this setup rather than pods on all my previous Guzzis with carbs. It is easier, cheaper and as good as pods and I like the look of it too.
The throttle response on my bike is excellent with the new map, as good or possibly better than my older Guzzis with carbs. A gentle roll on is not a problem. Low speed and lower RPM response is great now. If I wack open the throttle in 4th or 5th between 2500 and 3000 it pings too much. It does not hiccup, it pulls fine, just too much pinging. I will load a slightly modified map with approx 2 degree retarded ignition map in the lower RPM range and see if that helps.
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So you are running a single spark plug map, in a twin plugged motor?
Wouldn't the Lemans timing need to be retarded a good bit to be safe?
That's what I thought too.
I tried other maps first and it was not as good. I remember reading in other threads that before guzzidiag some had changed the stock ecu with ones from the 1100 sport and they reported a remarkable difference.
My heads seem to run cooler than with the stock map, which is a good sign. My plugs look good so far, though I have only put a hundred miles or so on the bike since the reflash. I have compared the ignition map of the stock Cal Vin to the 1100 sport and the max advance is not much different but the midrange on the sport was a bit more advanced, but it also supplies more fuel.
I don't have anyway to test it except by the seat of my pants and my ears. So far the 1100 sport map is excellent with the exception of the above mentioned pinging.
Under most driving conditions I do not detect any pinging.
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Hi, You can try my version ignition map, it is made for V11 MY02 15M with rebuilt twin plugged heads, also you can add 2-3 degree more, I have higher compression. Interpolate it to your RPM and TPS breakpoints.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/cPXz3v/IGN4.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cPXz3v)
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I loaded a modification of my current V11 sport map in which I retarded the timing 2 degrees in the lower RPM range and at mid to almost wide open throttle and it seems to have quieted down the pinging with no loss of drive ability.
It is difficult to hear with a full face helmet and wind noise. I need to come up with a better way to listen to the engine while at speed to see if I need anymore fine tuning.
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Sounds like the answer and this agrees with what others have used successfully. I'm laid up following a knee replacement surgery, but this sounds like something I'd like to undertake...
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Sounds like the answer and this agrees with what others have used successfully, Antman. I'm laid up following a knee replacement surgery, but this sounds like something I'd like to undertake...