Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: cwiseman on August 27, 2016, 09:00:42 AM
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I installed new clutch springs while putting in a new 4mm hub, new clutch plates & intermediate plate in my 72 Eldo. The problem is it is stupidly hard to pull the clutch handle now. I've adjusted the cable properly starting from the back & coming forward. The thing that throws me is I SHOULD have those same red painted springs in my Calvin. I assume it's just not going to work out with them in there so I'll whip the engine/trans out to install the original springs back into the clutch.
Also, any way to hold those darned springs into place to install the pressure plate while the engine is still in the frame, I might not have anyone to help me pull & reinstall the lump.
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Did you line the dot on the pressure plate up with the line on the flywheel so that the springs drop into the pockets of the flywheel correctly? If it's misaligned, a hard pull will result.
There are two different strengths of springs available now - the "old" red painted and some "new" supposedly lighter ones.
Two ways of holding the springs in place: a dab of silicone to stick them to the pressure plate or slightly crimp/bent the first coil end so that it stays in place on the pressure plate.
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Well the little arrow on the side of the flywheel was machined off, not my doing on that slick move so..... I used a bore scope to ensure the springs were in the pockets of the pressure plate. They all appear to be sitting in their place without issue. I think the best course of action at this time is stick the originals back in there since they were working just fine before being replaced.
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Charlie sez..
Two ways of holding the springs in place: a dab of silicone to stick them to the pressure plate or slightly crimp/bent the first coil end so that it stays in place on the pressure plate.
I use vise grips adjusted to "just" bend that first coil shut a little. It'll stick right on the post in the c'bore.
FWIW, when the Kid and I put his Spot clutch together with new springs and discs, the clutch pull was horrendous. We both thought something's gotta be wrong. Took it apart and checked. Nope, fine. Now that it's broken in a little, the clutch pull is only awful. :smiley:
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I usually use just a little 3M weather strip adhesive to glue the springs in place. I have crimped them as well but it seems like more effort these days.
Brian
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If the pushrod did not enter the hole in the cup that would be a cause, it will usually find its way in by itself. Ways you can tell if that is the case is an 1/4 inch or so difference in the free play from before the clutch replacement or if the free play suddenly increases by about that amount in use. It doesn't happen often but is something to be aware of. I use a ten spring clutch with the stiffest springs I can find but I milked cows by hand when I was a kid so I like a manly clutch pull. The arthritis in my hands is getting intolerable so I see a hydraulic clutch conversion on the horizon.
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For what it's worth - I just put new springs in with the clutch on my V11 LeMans (which is hydraulic). They were standard replacements that I got from MG Cycle. The clutch now requires noticeably more effort.
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Well I pulled things apart, swapped the springs around and got things back to where I was this time yesterday. The old springs has it feeling like it did last year when I was riding her, a bit stiff but acceptable.
Thank you all for your help, the silicone trick was the berries since the engine stayed in the frame no help was needed.
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Quantum mechanics in action! I buy a saddle from yah a while back. Then we both tackle a clutch job in the same weekend. That is some Guzzi magic. Clutching for the Maine rally. Stupid me tried to go up too steep a wet grassy incline at the Mass rally. Death to spoked Newfren plates for shure. Got to the clutch pack last night. Putting together today. PS: After I adjusted the backrest properly, as daily commutes did not stress my back and legs like rally riding did, the saddle is now an all day rider.