Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: motogman on September 02, 2016, 08:55:31 PM
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My projects often take a very long time so I have learned to take lot of pictures (the digital camera has been a enabler) to remember what went where.
I am reassembling a V7 Sport motor and am just putting the cam and crank in etc. As I am assembling the cam flange, it seems to have a lip that if place toward the cam side, limits the end play movement of the cam. In this position, the cam is free to rotate but has small end play.
When I go and review the pictures of how it was when I disassembledit, this lip on the flange is outward so the cam has more end play.
So the question is... which way is is supposed to go.
Here are the pistures.
This is the flange - flat on one site with a raise portion on the other - more detailed pics below.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/ittE3v/DSCN8028s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ittE3v)
The cam in the block. There is a relieve from the surface that is suspiciously the same as the 'pilot' on the flange.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/mr8giv/DSCN8029s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mr8giv)
Images of the two sides of the flange...
(http://thumb.ibb.co/kUk5Aa/DSCN8025s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kUk5Aa)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/j5enOv/DSCN8027s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/j5enOv)
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The flat side goes toward the cam. End play is controlled by the cam sprocket-to-flange clearance once the nut if torqued down.
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My projects often take a very long time so I have learned to take lot of pictures (the digital camera has been a enabler) to remember what went where.
I am reassembling a V7 Sport motor and am just putting the cam and crank in etc. As I am assembling the cam flange, it seems to have a lip that if place toward the cam side, limits the end play movement of the cam. In this position, the cam is free to rotate but has small end play.
When I go and review the pictures of how it was when I disassembledit, this lip on the flange is outward so the cam has more end play.
So the question is... which way is is supposed to go.
Here are the pistures.
This is the flange - flat on one site with a raise portion on the other - more detailed pics below.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/ittE3v/DSCN8028s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ittE3v)
The cam in the block. There is a relieve from the surface that is suspiciously the same as the 'pilot' on the flange.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/mr8giv/DSCN8029s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mr8giv)
Images of the two sides of the flange...
(http://thumb.ibb.co/kUk5Aa/DSCN8025s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kUk5Aa)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/j5enOv/DSCN8027s.jpg) (http://ibb.co/j5enOv)
Dont refit that cam retainer,its toast. Note the thin lip, thats wear caused by drive sprocket and typical of the earlier versions of the retainer. The later ones are identical except for 3 small reliefs cut in the face to allow oil to enter and provide better lubrication.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/kUqiwF/12054000a.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kUqiwF)
This is what the old style look like when new,note the lack of lip. The later type have as I said 3 small reliefs cut into the thrust face to stop the wear you have. MG cycle have them for about $44, if you cant get the new type you can just add the reliefs yourself with a rat tail file.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/jUebGF/s_l1600.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jUebGF)
Here you go the new style, one currently on ebay at a good price. http://www.ebay.com/itm/2003-Moto-Guzzi-California-1100-Cam-retainer-thrust-flange-01054000-EV-cam-shaft-/401181464113?hash=item5d68475631:g:-~gAAOSwdIFXwyEg&vxp=mtr
Ciao
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I have to love the knowledge and support here. Many thanks.
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Just recieved the new CAM flange and starting to rework the reliefs for better oil flow and then to get it mounted.
I find that the original was full thickness at the mounting point and held in place with regular hex hed bolts. The new one has counter bored mounting holes so the regular hex head bols don't work. I will source some hex head fasteners.
Any body know why this cahnge was made?
Any comment or issues with this approach?
(http://thumb.ibb.co/jAvGGF/DSCN8285.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jAvGGF)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/cUSVbF/DSCN8286.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cUSVbF)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/ddxkAa/DSCN8287_Copy.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ddxkAa)
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Phil covered that design change pretty well.
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Just recieved the new CAM flange and starting to rework the reliefs for better oil flow and then to get it mounted.
I find that the original was full thickness at the mounting point and held in place with regular hex hed bolts. The new one has counter bored mounting holes so the regular hex head bols don't work. I will source some hex head fasteners.
Any body know why this cahnge was made?
Any comment or issues with this approach?
A assume you meant to write that you'll source some socket head bolts/cap screws instead of hex head. Perhaps the change was made so that the bolts would clear the phonic wheel on later models? <shrug>