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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: hannibal smith on September 27, 2016, 10:36:00 AM
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2007 V7 Classic
10-60 for the engine-
85-90 for the gearbox (what I would call the transmission)
85-140 for the transmission (what I would call the final drive)
Just to clarify!
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Sounds right. If you get the quantities right, you are golden.
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Thanks- Just confused a bit in the OM about terminology- I assumed the "heavier" fluid would go in the final-
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It's been known to happen, putting 250cc lube in the 'gearbox' and having 5th go bye bye.
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2007 V7 Classic
10-60 for the engine-
85-90 for the gearbox (what I would call the transmission)
85-140 for the transmission (what I would call the final drive)
Just to clarify!
From the V7 Classic factory manual:
Engine Oil - 1780cc / 108.62cu in
Gearbox Oil (i.e. Transmission) - 1L / 0.26US Gal
Transmission (i.e. Rear) - 170cc / 10.37cu in.
& under Recommended Products
AGIP RACING 4T 10W-60 - Engine Oil
AGIP GEAR MG/S 85W-90 - Gearbox Oil (i.e. Transmission)
AGIP GEAR MG 85W-140 - Transmission Oil (i.e. Rear)
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Thanks all!
Kinda figured, but Italians are known to do their own thing!
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And just to further clarify...
Many gear oils will carry both the MG and the MG/S certifications. As I recall, one is specific to straight gears and the other to hypoids, but it is quite possible to make lubricants that meet both requirements. For big blocks, oils such as Mobil1's 75w90 are suitable for both gear types and can be used in both sections of the drive (other brands may also be suitable).
Bikes that use more widely separated grades, like the small blocks of course, need two different weights - but you may find oils, especially synthetics, that carry both MG and MG/S or equivalent specifications.
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Ok- refilled engine oil to 1.8L of Motorex 4T 10/60
Fired her up for a few minutes, shut her off, and started checking for leaks. Oil is running down tube that exits from lower left side of crankcase. Not the fitting, but what looks like a breather going towards airbox.
Un capped both accumulation lines that exit airbox (right side of bike) and they are dry.
Hopefully it's just an overfill?
ETA- While I have been putting on the miles, it has marking it's territory with a tiny quantity of oil, (like a drop a day) from the same location, but oil level checks always came out sound, so I chalked it up to an Italian bike. But this is a larger accumulation).
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Oil leak mystery solved!
Those thermal shielding sleeves are there for a reason!
Shield sleeve had slipped up, thus exposing the lower breather pipe. The exposed section is no longer pliable, glossy with heat damage and has multiple fine cracks. Leaking from the cracks. Simple as that.
Got to get another section (part no. 32159610) and re anchor shielding in the proper location, and it's fixed. Love a simple fix.
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You might want to check the line that enters the sump from the rear. That line enters the sump under the oil level and will drip if the crimped hose end comes loose on the fitting. I suspect that heat from the exhaust causes them to harden and shrink. I replace them with automatic transmission hose and a fuel injection clamp at each end.
Brian
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Part #30 in this illustration.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/spare_parts_catalog_v7_special_stone_2012.pdf
Well that didn't work as I expected. Page 37 is the one with the illustration.
Brian
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Part #30 in this illustration.
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/mg_manuals/spare_parts_catalog_v7_special_stone_2012.pdf
Well that didn't work as I expected. Page 37 is the one with the illustration.
Brian
Yep! Thanks!
Part will take at least a week and a half from Harper's- Im going to make my own fitting/assembly.
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I used a grinder to remove the crimp and a fuel injection hose clamp on each end of the automatic transmission hose, any auto parts store. I also replaced the aluminum washer the is under the fitting. Remember that the fitting hole is under the oil level in the sump, you will lose oil from that hole when you remove hose or fitting.
Brian