Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: SpoolnDSM on November 04, 2016, 10:22:28 AM
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Hey guys, this is my first post to the discussion forum and I was hoping the Guzzi community could help me out. Tried researching the forums, but I suppose nobody has tried to do what I am so I haven't found much.
Anyways, I picked up an immaculate 2000 Jackal in July and love the thing. The bike is showroom worthy with 6k miles. Most people would probably slap a cover over it and let it sit in its glory, but I'm the type of person, unfortunately, that has to play around with beautiful stock things and modify them.
My first question is in regard to lowering the bike. I've read on here that an inch is the most you can lower the bike otherwise you risk tearing the taillight harness. Since my Jackal is going towards that bobber style, I'm fabricating a custom fender and installing a new taillight/ turn signal assembly in which the harness will be run above the fender or next to it. I'll obviously have to do some fitment calculations etc, but I'm curious if that's the only issue with lowering the bike? I'm looking to drop 2-2.5 and the only other thing I can imagine is muffler clearances being an issue. Has anyone else ever gone this route?
Also, I'm looking into Progressive 412 rear shocks. I've read reviews that these are great upgrades from the stock Sachs shocks. My question is if they're bike-specific, like if I buy a used pair that were mounted on a HD Dyna, will they fit my Guzzi? I know people run HD air shocks, so the busching diameter should be the same for both, right?
As for the front, lowering more than 1.5 inches, I read, puts the alternator cover in danger from the front fender. My front fender is going to be removed (might fab a custom one) and I'll be running a 120/90/18. Will the front tire clear everything when the suspension is fully compressed 2" lower? Also, how do I lower the front suspension, I've tried looking for posts, but only found ones for newer Californias.
**Also, just as a point of confirmation, considering I will be lowering the bike equally, front and rear, the geometry of the bike will be relatively the same, correct? So I shouldn't have any issues with the driveshaft/final drive?**
Another question I have regards the tires. I was determined to put whitewalls on this bike, but they're not available in the OEM dimensions. I saw one user on here has a 160/70/17 on the rear for his EV, which is the size I also purchased. There isn't a difference between EV and Jackal frames right? So my tire should clear the swing arm also? As for the front, the only whitewall I could find CLOSE to the OEM dimensions was a 120/90/18. The front tire already looks a little wide, will I have any issue with mounting??
Sorry for the mouthful fellas, looking forward to your responses! Thanks
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You might be interested in Calijackalbob's posts on this board.
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You might be interested in Calijackalbob's posts on this board.
I'll check him out, Thanks!
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I think there was a modification to the EV swingarm at some point, so not all EVs are the same rear tire-wise. I think the Jackals need the narrower (140) tire.
Bushing IDs on the shocks are different--you'd need to ream the HD ones.
Rich A
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'01 Jackal here . Considering how low these things already are , and how well they handle , I might consider not lowering it very much . Nothing wrong with modding it , the basic platform lends its self to bobbing , just maybe not get carried away and lose too much cornering clearance . As for the rear tire , a 140 is about all that will fit , in fact several of us are running a 130 to make them more nimble.
Dusty
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Ours was lowered more than an inch by a previous owner, Progressive 412s. So far so good, who knows how it will hold up over years and miles.
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You could check with Todd Eagan and Mark Etheridge on their "power cruisers"/bobbers modded bikes.
Are you intending the bike to be more show than go? aka town cruiser or country cruiser?
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The bike is going to be a weekend cruiser, certainly more show than go haha
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You definitely need to be aware of the alternator cover. Seems to me that you'd need to break out the measuring tape for the swingarm width and how deep the alternator is in the cover.
Could I make a suggestion? Ride your Jackal first. Put some mileage on it before tearing into the suspension. You may find that it'll be more fun to change it to the Bobber look without lowering it too much.
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So I've been trying to find some info on this, but haven't had any success...anyways, are the Jackal forks adjustable? If yes, how do I lower them, if no, what do I need to do to lower the front at least 1.25 inches. Thanks
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Not adjustable , but that would not apply here anyway . Loosen the triple trees , raise the forks . However , 1.25 inches is really a lot .
Dusty
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Not adjustable , but that would not apply here anyway . Loosen the triple trees , raise the forks . However , 1.25 inches is really a lot .
Dusty
I'm aware, but I'm lowering the rear the same amount so that the geometry of the bike will stay the same, just wondering how to go about lowering the front
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I'm aware, but I'm lowering the rear the same amount so that the geometry of the bike will stay the same, just wondering how to go about lowering the front
slip the fork tubes up in the clamps
might want to get a bash plate under the sump then..
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Same as the EV. You can raise the tubes by 20mm. I think more and you risk a fender into the alternator cover.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
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Same as the EV. You can raise the tubes by 20mm. I think more and you risk a fender into the alternator cover.
Patrick Hayes
Fremont CA
I will be fabricating a custom fender for the front that will be significantly smaller than the original. That being said, do you think clearance will still be an issue?
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I have my forks slid up 1-1/4 inch and no problems.
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Sorry for making several threads, but these questions keep randomly popping into my head. On my Jackal right now I have the stock headers and H-pipe crossover with the baffles in my muffler punched out. Although exhaust flow certainly increased I feel that it is not optimal flow. So my question is, since the Lafranconi Competiziones are very very similar to the stock muffler, if I cut off the very end of the exhaust (where the 2 inch hole is) and open it up to the full diameter of the pipe, could I then totally remove the baffle and maximize exhaust flow? Thanks fellas
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Not trying to be snarky , but some study of suspension , engine tuning , and a few other things would be worthwhile before making all of these mods . A completely open exhaust will not improve performance on a 2 valve low compression ditch pump . Yeah , we have seen some internet articles claiming open exhausts make more HP , but if you understand how a 4 stroke actually works then those claims will become obviously false . There is a period during valve overlap when intake/exhaust kind of work in reverse and an open exhaust actually harms performance . Now , if your goal is simply to turn the throttle grip into a loud switch , feel free , but the engine will perform worse .
Dusty
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Sorry for making several threads, but these questions keep randomly popping into my head.
Please use this thread. We don't need a dozen different threads for mods to the same bike.
Keeping them all together will help you, and others better in the long run.
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=86886.0
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Not trying to be snarky , but some study of suspension , engine tuning , and a few other things would be worthwhile before making all of these mods . A completely open exhaust will not improve performance on a 2 valve low compression ditch pump . Yeah , we have seen some internet articles claiming open exhausts make more HP , but if you understand how a 4 stroke actually works then those claims will become obviously false . There is a period during valve overlap when intake/exhaust kind of work in reverse and an open exhaust actually harms performance . Now , if your goal is simply to turn the throttle grip into a loud switch , feel free , but the engine will perform worse .
Dusty
I'm not expecting the open exhaust to increase horsepower by itself, I'm expecting my power commander to do that for me. With a modified air box, more airflow coming into the combustion chamber and less resistance leaving it, the a/f ratio will be too lean and grenade my engine and I'm aware of that. I'm asking these questions to see if anyone's done these sort of modifications considering finding information is difficult. This way instead of spending $650 on mufflers, I can modify the one I have, if possible, to achieve the same, if not similar results on the dyno. You're not coming off as snarky in the least, I appreciate your input. What I'm trying to say is that I'm trying to learn more about these things, hence my posts.
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I'm trying to learn more about these things, hence my posts.
:thumb:
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I'm not expecting the open exhaust to increase horsepower by itself, I'm expecting my power commander to do that for me. With a modified air box, more airflow coming into the combustion chamber and less resistance leaving it, the a/f ratio will be too lean and grenade my engine and I'm aware of that. I'm asking these questions to see if anyone's done these sort of modifications considering finding information is difficult. This way instead of spending $650 on mufflers, I can modify the one I have, if possible, to achieve the same, if not similar results on the dyno. You're not coming off as snarky in the least, I appreciate your input. What I'm trying to say is that I'm trying to learn more about these things, hence my posts.
Well , and learning is always a good thing , but W/O serious internal engine mods , what you are proposing is a waste of money . We are talking about an engine with a short duration camshaft , low compression , and relatively small injectors . Leaving the injectors on longer , which is mostly what a power commander does , has it's limits W/O a longer duration or higher lift cam . It would actually make more sense to swap in a higher performance Guzzi engine from a Lemans that already will outperform an externally modded Jackal engine .
Dusty
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Absolutely study upon rake and trail before changing your steering geometry. You can get in catastrophically dangerous territory in terms of steering stability by randomly raising the forks. What I mean is you could give the bike " bad shopping cart wheel" and crash.
The other consideration with lowering the rear is the effects of the negative swingarm angle. Aside from draining the drear drive fluid forward, it can stress the ujoints with the increased angle.f