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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bedevil on November 19, 2016, 12:10:11 AM
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I'm about to put my big Breva away for the winter. We have had a number of posts and different opinions about whether to change the engine, trans, and gearbox oils before winter or after. Some suggest a change now to avoid "dirty" oil sitting through the winter and others suggest a fresh change in the spring. It seems to me the best thing would be to drain it now and refill when I bring it out of hibernation. Any reason not to do that? I know seals and gaskets can dry out over time, but I can't imagine three months of no lube in an otherwise sealed engine would cause a problem. Opinions?? I do promise to remember to refill everything before I start up in the spring.
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I don't think it would cause harm, unless someone decided to try and start the bike and forgot it was drained.
But at the same time I can't think of a single manufacturer that recommends storing an engine dry.
I can't think of a single legitimate reason why you would do this.
If the oil is old/dirty/contaminated then change it now.
If it's not, then leave it be and change it later.
You're seriously over thinking this.
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I'm kinda with Kev m. I wouldn't really consider 3 months as winter storage. The only thing I do for this short a period of down time is to hook up the battery tender. My only other storage advice is to keep the rodents away. They seem to be attracted to idle motorcycles and love to nest in them, shred the air filter for nest material, and destroy the wiring just because they can.
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Ride it once a month for at least one hour.
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^^^ Kev m's last sentence 👆👆👆👍👍👍
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For me, drain the engine oil now, due to the nasties of the combustion process, and the gear oils now or later, if scheduled for replacement. (It's gear oil, it's not subject to contamination by combustion byproducts like engine oil. Do it when needed by miles, not the calendar. Unless you ride very little each year.)
Replacing the engine oil going into winter flushes out the junk and putting in the new engine oil and circulating it now for a minute or two puts a film of clean oil on everything. I don't do the monthly engine start routine, no benefit and can create water condensation inside the engine, or so I've always understood it to happen, and I don't want to find out.
Winter storage for me is 4-5 months, first road salt application (which happened last night in my area), to at least after the first good, long spring rainy day to wash it all away.
Steve.
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I just put my Vintage to bed for the winter.
Filled the fuel tank with hi-test. Added some fuel stabilizer.
Pulled the battery - I charge it monthly over the winter and just before I start the bike in the spring.
Parked it on the centre stand and elevated the front wheel.
Covered the bike with old flannelette sheets.
Fluid & filter changes I leave until spring.
G
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i'm with Fossil. But that may well depend on where you live. I've watched "Fargo". It looks cold in Minnesota.
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One more recomendation from my Audace "Use + Maintenance Book":
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hLpQAa/2016_11_19_1650.png) (http://ibb.co/hLpQAa)
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Ride it once a month for at least one hour.
Germany must have a tropical climate these days.
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One more recomendation from my Audace "Use + Maintenance Book":
(http://thumb.ibb.co/hLpQAa/2016_11_19_1650.png) (http://ibb.co/hLpQAa)
Makes sense, I will do that. Condoms would be good too.
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Thanks for the replies. I have been accused of over thinking things, being a perfectionist, etc. I pretty much have been following the routine as outlined by geoff in almonte. Guess I'll continue.
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I do pretty much what Geoff in Almonte does BUT I change the engine oil to get rid of the acids and then get it nice and warm on the fresh oil to flush any remaining goop out of the oil passages, leaving clean oil there. Then I park it.
This routine kept the T fresh for 30 winters -- and that bike has no oil filter.
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What is the thought on fuel in the carburaetors?
Do you empty the float bowls during the winter. or just leave them full with fuel stablizer?
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What is the thought on fuel in the carburaetors?
Do you empty the float bowls during the winter. or just leave them full with fuel stablizer?
It's been years since we've had a carburetor in the garage, but when I did I was so retentive that I would stabilize the system and drain the carbs. Stabilizer or not, why risk evaporation leaving behind deposits in the carbs and the bowls are vented.
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It's been years since we've had a carburetor in the garage, but when I did I was so retentive that I would stabilize the system and drain the carbs. Stabilizer or not, why risk evaporation leaving behind deposits in the carbs and the bowls are vented.
I've got more machines w carbs than not, and I agree w Kev. No reason to keep fuel in the carb. Even with stablizer the ethanol can eat at zinc or die-cast alloys.
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I store mine for about 4 months up here in Toronto - it can get cold. Wash it, fuel stabilizer, run it over to gas station, top up with ethanol free premium. Get home, bring battery inside. Cover her up. I've done engine oil in the fall, but lately do it first thing in spring. No difference really. Lots of guys with OCD, eh?
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I stuff a grease rag in the exhaust pipes to keep rodents and moisture out. Put the bike cover on and let her sit till spring. Then I do the fluids, battery and clean the carbs in the spring.
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http://www.clarity.net/adam/winter-storage.html
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Changing oil before winter storage is a complete waste of time and resources.
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Makes me wonder how many of us that are so in tuned to changing oil so religiously keep a bike over 3 or 4 years. Had the old cx for 26 years and never even considered "winterizing" but sw Missouri weather is a lot like the weather in Central America in the winter.........nice and warm sunny all the time :cool:
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Changing oil before winter storage is a complete waste of time and resources.
:1:
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Changing oil before winter storage is a complete waste of time and resources.
I generally don't, because my usage and timeframes mean that most of my motorcycles see annual oil changes at whatever their particular date requires it and that date rarely corresponds to storage.
That said, your statement is too broad and therefore wrong on its face.
It depends completely on the diverse maintenance conditions/usage, time of storage, method and conditions of storage etc.
For machines that are going to be stored for only a few months of winter, whose time and/or mileage is approaching oil change time there are few reasons why it would not make sense to change before storage.
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I've got more machines w carbs than not, and I agree w Kev. No reason to keep fuel in the carb. Even with stablizer the ethanol can eat at zinc or die-cast alloys.
Thanks, I've drained the carbs...