Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Chaussbeck on December 02, 2016, 07:36:46 AM
-
2009 V7 classic 7500miles total electrical failure. Battery fully charged before and during incident. No previous problem. - riding in heavy moderate traffic , Miami Beach 70°f. Bike cuts out while having shift change from 1-2 hit start switch while still rolling and keep going.. About 800 feet later cut out again.. Hit start switch and engune starts fine another 300 feet later see the gauges do the startup thing and bike dies dead. Zero power when ignition switch is turned on. battety fully charged. Tightly connected.. I jiggled all tje conections i could get to and checked fuses. Tapped the relays and slapped the instrument gauge for luck but she is dead. Anyone hear of something like this before? Thank you in advance. I LOVE MY GUZZI
(http://thumb.ibb.co/mSoS6F/20161201_173609.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mSoS6F)
-
My 2009 v7c at 12,000 did something similar. I had a tough time locating the bugger but it was a bad solder connection in the ignition switch. At first was difficult to locate as the power failure seemed related to taking off from a standing idle,..so I was thinking side stand? clutch safety crap,..well it WAS movement related as a certain position in handlebar twist moved the wire just enough to kill the system but when trying to restart, the connection would re-establish and sit and run , rev, normally. Eventually the solder connection failed completely and I pulled the switch and a local electronics shop re-soldered it for free.
-
I had the same problem on my 2010V7C. The orange wire on the ignition switch broke its solder connection. You can make a temporary repair by opening the sheathing that the wires going to the switch are in and twisting them together
-
pic of what was inside
(http://thumb.ibb.co/isvw0a/switch.jpg) (http://ibb.co/isvw0a)
-
On big blocks, older ones anyway, the ignition switch base where the contacts are is a "wear" part and can be bought and replaced . It comes with the connector and just plugs in. I have to believe small blocks are the same, looks like it from the picture.
-
On big blocks, older ones anyway, the ignition switch base where the contacts are is a "wear" part and can be bought and replaced . It comes with the connector and just plugs in. I have to believe small blocks are the same, looks like it from the picture.
It looks to be the same switch except the big blocks have 4 wires with a Park position. When you put it back together anchor the wires where they come out of the back cover with some silicone sealant or a ty-wrap so they don't twist at the solder joint.
Try to arrange the loom so the twisting takes place over several inches not at one spot.
The white plate unclips and tilts out so you can clean the contacts, the grease becomes hard after a few years and holds the contacts apart, the best replacement is plain old Vaseline.
Update,
I see Chaussbeck found the same problem, this is a very common Guzzi fault, something you V7 owners can correct over the winter.
-
We Have A Winner!!!!!
Broken solder joint at the orange wire!!##
Thank you so much everybody :)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/dOdzLa/20161202_110901.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dOdzLa)
image upload (http://imgbb.com/)
-
Was. Able to successfully re solder the wire and then I used epoxy putty to hold the wires. Firmly in place. I going to order a new switch the next trip to dealer.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/b6gKLa/20161202_113456.jpg) (http://ibb.co/b6gKLa)
free image hosting (http://imgbb.com/)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/nQTMYv/20161202_113154.jpg) (http://ibb.co/nQTMYv)
image hosting for forums (http://imgbb.com/)
-
:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
Well done team
-
Looking at the pictures of the two different switches it's something I haven't seen before, it appears the solder melted letting go the wire rather than it snapped.
The current through the switch at starting can be very high, 40 Amps or more, if the resistance is too high the contact may overheat
Did you notice any hesitation in cranking with the start button?
I note these are both early V7s, as they get older the grease goes hard and tends to hold the contacts apart causing low Voltage to the starter solenoid and heat in the switch.
-
Good work Chaussbeck,
Digging out that problem wasn't for the light hearted.
Joe
-
Was. Able to successfully re solder the wire and then I used epoxy putty to hold the wires. Firmly in place. I going to order a new switch the next trip to dealer.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/b6gKLa/20161202_113456.jpg) (http://ibb.co/b6gKLa)
free image hosting (http://imgbb.com/)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/nQTMYv/20161202_113154.jpg) (http://ibb.co/nQTMYv)
image hosting for forums (http://imgbb.com/)
You don't need a complete switch, just the contact plate on the bottom of the switch. It comes as a plug in assembly, with the lead and connector. That way you retain the key part of it and you will have a spare switch plate. After I told Joe Eish (RIP) about it, he started stocking them. He wanted to have everything that will stop you on hand. I assume his kid does the same.