Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Chuck in Indiana on March 13, 2017, 02:03:45 PM
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I treat motorcycles like airplanes. They get an annual inspection. A motorcycle will kill ya faster than an airplane will.. :smiley: Anyone interested? If so, I'll do a tutorial. There still isn't a *lot* of old small block info on WG.
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Chuck,
Always nice to follow along and see what and how others do things.
Brian
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Certainly. I'd welcome the opportunity to see your methodical approach to such things. And with only a single bike, shouldn't be too overwhelming to follow along.
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:1:
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It's always entertaining and educational to follow your procedures and display of skill. I would like to suggest this time perhaps including an assistant
(http://thumb.ibb.co/kTW8mF/16697215280_55e6ca7193_b.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kTW8mF)
to help with parts cleaning, measuring and tool selection. For educational purposes of course. :evil:
Paul B :popcorn: :boozing:
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Yes, please! And if you have any big-block tips, I'd like to see them as well... :bow:
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Yes! Picked up a V50 III last year. Taking some of it apart and putting it back together.
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By all means! I'm working on a V50II cafe resto/modernization. I'm the original owner and would love to see a systematic approach to inspection/faultfinding/correction. Will follow your inspection blog with great interest.
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Alrighty now.. let's get started. The patient is practically a one owner bike. (!) The original owner obviously knew and loved the breed, so this should go pretty smoothly. One other owner was involved, and he didn't have much time to bodge anything. :evil: :smiley: When I got it, the valves were out of adjustment, and a (yuck) new garden tractor battery was installed. Other than that, it's an original survivor. :thumb: Here she is.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2892/32583058484_08e191a93c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RDfG7q)2017-03-13_05-45-14 (https://flic.kr/p/RDfG7q) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
The first thing I do on any inspection is take a look at the plugs. They were black and wet from running it down from the Guzzi Garage (tm) with the choke on, so they didn't tell me anything. Normally, though, plugs will tell you a lot about how the engine is running. Why did I start it up and do that? It's really not a good idea to start an engine unless it's going to be thoroughly warmed up, but I had a chat with the Grim Reaper after pushing the Lario down through the snow one time. :shocked: :rolleyes: He said I was getting a little old to be doing that..
So, we didn't learn anything from the plugs, it'll get new ones anyway. The next thing is to do a leak down compression test.
Take the alternator cover off..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3925/33297249141_dfa7e919a9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SJn77r)2017-03-13_05-45-43 (https://flic.kr/p/SJn77r) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Once you do that, you can turn the engine over manually with an allen wrench in the bolt that holds the rotor on.
Turn it clockwise, looking from the front until you see the intake valve of the S cylinder open, then close. At that point it is coming up on compression ready to fire.
I have a kid, Tylon, that I am training to run the CNC. He's 21, and absolutely totally clueless about engines. He's willing to learn, though, and stayed over after work to help me with this. Unfortunately, I was showing him every little detail, and forgot to take pictures of them. So I'll pretend, dear reader.. :smiley: that you are Tylon. For instance, he wondered if the valve springs were the pistons. (!!) He's heard of pistons.. Got the picture? :smiley:
So. The S cylinder is the left one if you are sitting on the bike. The intake valve is the one closest to the carburetor. You can put a chop stick, or something similar in the spark plug hole.. yes, Tylon the spark plug goes in there.. and eyeball when the piston comes to the top of the stroke. There is a rubber plug on the right side of the bell housing that can be removed with a small screwdriver. Just pry it out.
Well, duh, forgot to take a picture of the rubber plug.
Once the plug is out, you can see the flywheel. There will be a dash on it at TDC. (Top Dead Center) Using the allen wrench, rotate the engine until the dash lines up with the casting line in the case.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/660/33270635282_7a0cf738a8_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SG1GJN)2017-03-13_06-35-54 (https://flic.kr/p/SG1GJN) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Now that the piston is exactly at TDC, we can do the leak down test.. but first.. adjust the valves on the S cylinder. .006" on the intake, and .008" on the exhaust.
Here, I'm holding tension with the screwdriver and snugging down the lock nut while the feeler is between the rocker arm and valve stem.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/710/33385167386_72406b5508_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SS8H9f)2017-03-13_05-46-59 (https://flic.kr/p/SS8H9f) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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I showed Tylon the difference between too heavy and too light a feel with the feeler gauges. If it's your first time, try to put one in that is .001 too large, and .001 too small. Think of putting it in the middle of a large telephone book and drawing it out.
"What's a telephone book?" :grin:
Now the valves are adjusted..they didn't need much.. we can do the leak down. My tester is home made, naturally, but they are relatively inexpensive and tell a *lot* about the condition of an engine. 80 psi is applied to an orifice that goes to another gauge that reads the leak.
An air hose adapter is screwed into the spark plug hole and the tester hooked to it. When the air pressure is turned on, the second gauge will show how much leakage is there. Naturally if there was no leak at all it would read 80. It read 76, and you could hear the air gently hissing. I had Tylon listen and tell me where it was coming from. "The Carburetor." Alright, that means the intake valve is leaking. Maybe it has carbon between the valve and seat from running it down here with the choke on. I took a copper hammer, and rapped the rocker arm a few times, and the gauge now reads 78. (!) That is really very good, especially for a 35 year old engine. Gotta love Guzzis. :smiley:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2845/33425665365_f0960d1f6b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SVHgMg)2017-03-13_05-46-27 (https://flic.kr/p/SVHgMg) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Then, I told him that if you could hear air coming out the muffler, it would be an exhaust valve leak, and you could tell if the rings were leaking by listening to the breather hose.
Ok, S cylinder done. Because of the Guzzi firing order, 180/450, it will be 270 degrees or 3/4 of a turn of the allen wrench clockwise to bring the D cylinder to TDC ready to fire.
Adjust the valves and do the leakdown on it the same way. It wasn't quite as good, at 80/76.. but plenty good enough. You don't normally start to look at a cylinder with a jaundiced eye until it drops under 80/70.
That takes care of the mechanical part of the engine.
Now, we'll start on the electrical.
Among the mods the original owner made to the bike is a Dyna S instead of the mechanical points. This is a very good mod for the small blocks. The dual point setup is needs adjusting pretty regularly. The Dyna is set it and forget it. Notice, this is an improvement from the big block "distributor." It's driven directly off the end of the cam and therefore is more accurate.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3854/33385145826_8c1a190ed0_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SS8AJw)2017-03-13_05-46-04 (https://flic.kr/p/SS8AJw) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
One of the maintenance items on the small block that is often overlooked is the mechanical advance mechanism needs to be lubed once a year. So, mark the "points plate" you can see the magic marker on it.. and remove the Dyna by removing the two slotted screws.
Here, Tylon is removing the rotor. He's pointing to the magnet in it. The rotor *can be installed 180 degrees out.*
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3924/33297279041_22f601a74e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SJnfZX)2017-03-13_05-47-31 (https://flic.kr/p/SJnfZX) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
That would ruin you day. :smiley: Pay attention, and just put it back the same way it came off.
Now we can see the advance mechanism. I've seen them completely frozen up, but this one is fine. No need to pull it out, clean off corrosion, etc. Tylon's giving it a dab of Marvel Mystery oil on the pivot points and making sure it works smoothly.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/671/33297283251_d233dc963a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SJnhfx)2017-03-13_05-47-53 (https://flic.kr/p/SJnhfx) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
If your small block doesn't run well at high rpm, a stuck advance is more than likely the issue.
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Remember the slotted screws that hold the advance plate in? They can be a booger to reinstall. This is a screw starter, another of my antique tools. Why are most of my tools antiques? I bought most of them new.. :rolleyes:
At any rate, it's spring loaded
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3713/32584778374_dee2da8f50_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RDpvnG)2017-03-13_08-03-12 (https://flic.kr/p/RDpvnG) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
and makes starting those screws a piece of cake. As I've said many times, the proper tool is generally about 2/3 of the job.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/692/33271719732_a0857c0eeb_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SG7g7d)2017-03-13_08-02-47 (https://flic.kr/p/SG7g7d) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Let's set the timing, now. Reassemble the Dyna, but leave the two screws loose enough that the plate can be rotated. We're still at TDC ready to fire on the D cylinder, right? The D cylinder timing is done by rotating the points plate, so turn the engine counter clockwise this time about 10 degrees and you will see a center punch mark.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3865/33043302510_6263207eca_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SkVyCf)2017-03-13_06-37-05 (https://flic.kr/p/SkVyCf) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
This is the "static" timing mark. There are three wires coming from the Dyna. White is for the D cylinder, black for the S, and red is power. Stick your electrical tester into the white wire connection, the alligator clip to ground, and turn on the ignition. Rotate the points plate until the light just comes on.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/33425701435_53e189f4a2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SVHsva)2017-03-13_05-48-20 (https://flic.kr/p/SVHsva) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Tighten down the points plate. Back up the engine, and rotate it clockwise until the light comes on. Look in the timing hole. Is the center punch mark centered? Perfect. :thumb:
The S cylinder is timed by moving the S module on the points plate. It's held on by two screws that need to be loosened enough for it to be rotated a little. Bring the engine back up to TDC ready to fire on the S cylinder. Put your probe in the black wire and move the module until the light just comes on. Tighten the two screws.
Bask in that great feeling of another job well done. :smiley:
Looks like it's beer o'clock already.. done for the day.
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Nice Chuck. Keep it coming. Peepuls Need To Lern!
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The best update I've done to my V50-III so far has been new button coils.
(https://www.oldbritts.com/image/51_150111d.jpg)
On the points plate I just changed out the old screws to allens. Maybe next year I change to dyna s.
The carbs I rebuilt and jetted with Colortune.
Dash lights got replace with LED's.
Shifter lever "bent back" to clear the exhaust pipe. Funny how now rearsets don't seem as necessary anymore
Now I have a Condor bar to put on but my youngest son doesn't want me to lower the gauges....
(http://www.mgcycle.com/images/atrex/mg324665.jpg)
That will probably be it for this year as we want to make a number of rallies on the West Coast this year. The boy will choose between the V50 and Griso, I'll probably be on the Lemans
Mark
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That looks familiar - I just checked and adjusted the valves and changed the oil for my Monza. Lucas RITA ignition (came with it) and it *looks* like the advance mechanism is no longer there. Or maybe it's behind the pickups? Anyone know?
Also, not-fishing, what's the source for those coils and how much trouble was it to mount them?
Thanks!
cr
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Thanks Chuck.
:popcorn:
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Tks very much for taking the time, to post and share,,, I always learn something new from these type of posts,,,
I had set my static timing with a voltmeter,,, it was a bit of a pita,,, your test light method will definitely make it easier.
tks
Kelly
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Thanks for this Chuck! Always a treat to watch you work.
Cool tool:
Remember the slotted screws that hold the advance plate in? They can be a booger to reinstall. This is a screw starter, another of my antique tools. Why are most of my tools antiques? I bought most of them new.. :rolleyes:
At any rate, it's spring loaded
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3713/32584778374_dee2da8f50_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RDpvnG)2017-03-13_08-03-12 (https://flic.kr/p/RDpvnG) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
There are three wires coming from the Dyna. White is for the D cylinder, black for the S, and red is power. Stick your electrical tester into the white wire connection, the alligator clip to ground, and turn on the ignition. Rotate the points plate until the light just comes on.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2921/33425701435_53e189f4a2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SVHsva)2017-03-13_05-48-20 (https://flic.kr/p/SVHsva) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Electronic ignition timing can be set without the magnet moving past the pickup?! How does that work? I set my Dyna timing with a strobe light.
I learn something every time. :smiley:
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Also, not-fishing, what's the source for those coils and how much trouble was it to mount them?
Thanks!
cr
The coils are from Power Arc or C5 Ignitions at $70 each which is half the price of stock replacement gut you still have to buy Ignition wires and boots They are single ignition coils and actually pretty big / robust and simple.
Installing them is not hard for a poor mechanic like me. I cut off one of the old big ring coil hanger then just drilled and mounted the new ones. You have to mount them in a row under the spine. They'd probably put out even more spark with the faster rise rate of pointless ignition. I'm still using points.
I had the little coils pictured but burned one out actually the electronic switching circuitry inside so I don't trust them as much as these boat anchors. Still they're not really that much bigger than the old coils.
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I haven't read anything good about the stock coils, although these on the Monza seem to be fine. The stock coils on the Aero Lario have been changed out to Dynas. Simple brackets fabbed to use the original coil mounts.. the ballast resistor has since been given the deep six.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/Lario/3-003_zpscf9qeypb.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/Lario/3-003_zpscf9qeypb.jpg.html)
We'll get back to it today.. colonoscopy yesterday. :shocked: :smiley:
Researching the Power Arc as we speak..
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That looks familiar - I just checked and adjusted the valves and changed the oil for my Monza. Lucas RITA ignition (came with it) and it *looks* like the advance mechanism is no longer there. Or maybe it's behind the pickups? Anyone know?
Also, not-fishing, what's the source for those coils and how much trouble was it to mount them?
Thanks!
cr
I *think* the Lucas Rita uses electronic advance..
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Lucas RITA ignition (came with it) and it *looks* like the advance mechanism is no longer there. Or maybe it's behind the pickups? Anyone know?
My Monza came with a Rita as well. It does away with the advancer weights and has a build in advance. If my memory is correct there is no curve to it. It holds the static timing to a point then advances timing with a fixed slope until max. advance.
ASCII art warning....
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It's a good time to do that transmission breather mod. Dave is ok with someone with better skills and equipment than me scanning and printing those instructions here. Hint hint, it's in those papers I sent to you.
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Thanks for this Chuck! Always a treat to watch you work.
Cool tool:
Electronic ignition timing can be set without the magnet moving past the pickup?! How does that work? I set my Dyna timing with a strobe light.
I learn something every time. :smiley:
I didn't really explain this thoroughly enough. The total advance for the typical small block is 33 degrees. There are three marks on the flywheel, TDC, 10 degrees BTDC, and 33 degrees BTDC. The static advance is where we set the initial timing. There are 23 degrees available via the advance mechanism, so at full advance you will have 33 degrees total advance. When you are timing with the timing light, you should be seeing the 10 degree mark at idle, and 33 at 4000 rpm or so. Make sense? When all goes well, that is what you will see. In the real world :smiley: go with the 33 degrees total with a timing light.
Another thing that I didn't make perfectly clear after reading what I said.. The rotor has to be perfectly free to rotate on the shaft on the end of the cam, along with the flyweights being free. Either or both can be "stuck" from congealed lube *or* tightening the bolt that holds it on too tightly. Make sure that it can. If tightening the bolt binds it up, use blue Loc Tite on it and just snug it up so the advance is free to turn.
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It's a good time to do that transmission breather mod. Dave is ok with someone with better skills and equipment than me scanning and printing those instructions here. Hint hint, it's in those papers I sent to you.
That goes a little beyond an "annual inspection.." and I just serviced the transmission last fall. I'd hate to dump that expensive trans lube.. :grin: (guzzi content) to do it, but I'll consider it if I run out of stuff to do while the weather still sucks..
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On reflection, the advance on a small block is important enough to add some more, so I took it back apart. The pin on the cam nose locates the advance plate.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3844/33328628281_8c541f2045_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SM8W36)2017-03-15_11-04-59 (https://flic.kr/p/SM8W36) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Here's the back of the advance plate.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3667/33328624541_26983aac71_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SM8UVB)2017-03-15_11-04-47 (https://flic.kr/p/SM8UVB) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Unfortunately, Flickr editing is disabled at the moment :rolleyes: so I can't lighten up this picture properly.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2821/33328613481_6ff92c2eb1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SM8RCV)2017-03-15_11-04-13 (https://flic.kr/p/SM8RCV) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
See the arrow at the top of the plate? When installing the Dyna S, it goes to the top, and the magnet that Tylon pointed to yesterday goes to the right. The "feet" of the bob weights go into the slots in the rotor. So.. the bob weights have to be free, and the rotor has to be free to turn on the cam nose. Got it? As centrifugal force overpowers the springs on the bob weights, the rotor turns and advances the ignition.
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You might read the instructions no need to drain the oil, just pull the starter, coat the drill and tap with grease to keep chips to minimum, install fitting, fill with it on side stand
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Very nice thread. Thanks for doing this!
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Uh oh. Tylon is getting more interested in working on this Guzzi than running the CNC. :smiley: I hate to dampen his curiosity by cracking the whip and saying "get back to work.."
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2872/33328608971_a676321303_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SM8Qia)2017-03-15_11-03-53 (https://flic.kr/p/SM8Qia) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
I've found that when people think of "breaking down" on the road, they normally think mechanical. In my experience, that's not true. The most common is a flat tire. After that, it's some stupid little electrical problem. Normally at night. And raining. :smiley: :boozing:
So, let's clean up the electrical system, starting with charging.
These are the three leads off the alternator. Clean them up with a stainless tooth brush
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/607/33300887972_d99a3cb91e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SJFKNU)2017-03-15_11-03-38 (https://flic.kr/p/SJFKNU) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Squirt a little Caig DeOxit on them and in the connector..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3828/33300881322_e3e48d419e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SJFHQf)2017-03-15_11-03-21 (https://flic.kr/p/SJFHQf) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Put them together, wiggle them around.. oh, you know. :grin:
Do the same to the rest of the connectors on the alternator, and while you're there..
eyeball the brush springs and make sure the brushes aren't abnormally worn.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3908/33456397895_4713059cbf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYqMut)2017-03-15_11-03-01 (https://flic.kr/p/SYqMut) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Now, back to the diode board.
The three yellow wires from the alternator terminate here. It obviously hasn't been looked at for a while..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/690/33456392905_4e1b71118f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYqL1r)2017-03-15_11-02-45 (https://flic.kr/p/SYqL1r) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
From my days as a moldmaker, I have literally hundreds of files. This is from my little Swiss file set, but an antique "points file" will work, too.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3775/33456380165_ae7a4b2469_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYqGdM)2017-03-15_11-02-13 (https://flic.kr/p/SYqGdM) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Get in there and get rid of the corrosion on the contacts.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2899/33456387065_b41d7411b9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYqJgK)2017-03-15_11-02-31 (https://flic.kr/p/SYqJgK) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Clean and DeOxit all the connectors on the diode board the same way as the alternator.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3768/33456376505_595cf5024c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SYqF8F)2017-03-15_11-02-00 (https://flic.kr/p/SYqF8F) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Did you notice the rust on the diode board? It's from that effin expletives deleted Garden Tractor Battery. :evil: Here, you can see the rust on the battery hold down bail, and the expletive deleted vent of the Garden Tractor Battery. No doubt, it would eventually have caused a "failure" in the charging system by the battery acid attacking the connectors of the diode board.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2812/33328557811_d6d373fd38_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SM8z66)2017-03-15_11-01-41 (https://flic.kr/p/SM8z66) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
I have a dollar that sez the original owner kept a motorcycle battery in it and there wasn't a spot of rust until the second owner put the new Garden Tractor Battery in it.
I know.. they are cheap. Just Say No. <shuffling off and grumbling>
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You might read the instructions no need to drain the oil, just pull the starter, coat the drill and tap with grease to keep chips to minimum, install fitting, fill with it on side stand
It's that keeping the chips to a minimum I have a problem with. No doubt, the gears will grind them up, but I'd feel better with a transmission drain, flush, and refill.. :smiley:
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Very nice thread. Thanks for doing this!
My pleasure. It's a way of "giving back" for all I've learned about Guzzis on WG. :thumb:
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Here, Tylon's showing the plug for the regulator that you have to wrestle out and give it the DeOxit treatment..You can also see the other vent of the stupid expletive deleted Garden Tractor Battery Vent that spews acid fumes toward the regulator.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3861/33328555491_f82531b7e3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SM8yp6)2017-03-15_11-01-25 (https://flic.kr/p/SM8yp6) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
(dang it, get back to work, kid) :smiley:
The last thing will be the battery ground that hides back behind the battery, and is behind the nut that mounts the rear of the brake master cylinder. There are a couple of other grounds that terminate there on the small blocks, too.. pay attention. :smiley:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/771/33328552141_fda8b10fd4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SM8xpk)2017-03-15_11-00-58 (https://flic.kr/p/SM8xpk) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Tweeeeet! Lunch whistle. Total time so far? About 3 hours.
Back later..
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I think Tylon just gave us all the middle finger..
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Excellent documentation Chuck! I love this kind of thing, I was I was there with Tylon.
Though how he got so far never knowing what a piston was....?!?!?! :grin:
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This is a very inspiring thread for a couple of reasons.
One is that I always wished I had the discipline and energy to treat my motorcycle engines the same as I would treat an aircraft engine, because the price of failure could be the same for both. You'd always THINK it would be worse for an airplane - until you see a video of a head-up pilot whose light aircraft engine has failed, and he finds a place to land the airplane and gets out and calls someone....
....And then compare that to riding on an interstate in the rain or fog, passing a truck with another one RIGHT behind you in the left lane, crossing a bridge with no shoulder, and the engine quits .... Could be EQUALLY serious with an airplane engine stopping, except there's no safe place to land and no one expects you to be suddenly stopping on the interstate ...
Also, when I go to one of the national Air and Space Museums, and look at some of those mechanical works of art from Pratt&Whitney and Curtiss Wright and Continental and Lycoming on stands where you can see every nut and bolt and safety wire, and imagine to yourself "Why couldn't I have an engine of that quality and reliability on my MOTORCYCLE if I were willing to pay the price?"
Your mechanical threads like this one make clear that you CAN. Take a well-designed motorcycle engine (like a Guzzi, but almost any major manufacturer has them), CAREFULLY overhaul and hand-assemble it, and then maintain it like (as you say) your life depended on it .... !
Lannis
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It's that keeping the chips to a minimum I have a problem with. No doubt, the gears will grind them up, but I'd feel better with a transmission drain, flush, and refill.. :smiley:
It's easy to do with zero chips, once you see it you'll agree. If there was an errant chip it would be retained in that cavity, a natural little breather box. I use a q tip for final cleanup. It's brilliant , I told Dave he should have gotten a Nobel prize. He thought the factory would have used it. I fill my transmission to the level hole on the side stand with no leakage
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It's easy to do with zero chips, once you see it you'll agree. If there was an errant chip it would be retained in that cavity, a natural little breather box. I use a q tip for final cleanup. It's brilliant , I told Dave he should have gotten a Nobel prize. He thought the factory would have used it. I fill my transmission to the level hole on the side stand with no leakage
Ok, John.. you've brow beat me into doing it. :smiley:
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Your fifth gear will love you for it :grin:
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Excellent documentation Chuck! I love this kind of thing, I was I was there with Tylon.
Though how he got so far never knowing what a piston was....?!?!?! :grin:
Hi, Joe! Hope things are well with you guys. Tylon had a couple of years of computer/cnc in high school, but no and I mean *no* mechanical training. I would never have hired him to do the CNC work, but Ed the Rocket Scientist did. Ed says he's really good with customers. I told Ed I'd train him, and it was a struggle at first, but he's getting it, finally.
Take care, and hug the Hobbit for me. :smiley:
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Lannis sed
pilot whose light aircraft engine has failed, and he finds a place to land the airplane and gets out and calls someone....
That was my point when I said a motorcycle can kill ya a lot faster than an airplane. :smiley: Having a sudden mechanical or electrical problem with a bike can range anywhere from no big deal, really.. to "Sh!t" :wink: That's the most common last word on recovered flight data recorders..
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Back at it. Pulled the battery tray and hold down stuff for bead blast, chromate, paint. Grumble grumble some more.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/723/33305317232_81bc47e347_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SK5sts)2017-03-15_04-12-41 (https://flic.kr/p/SK5sts) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Strangely enough, there was only one other ground wire behind the battery negative. There were two on the Lario. Shined them up.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2867/33420855576_4901a9dec4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SVhBZS)2017-03-15_04-12-16 (https://flic.kr/p/SVhBZS) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Dug out a couple of star washers just like you use on airplanes, some of Kiwi Roy's favorite spooge, :smiley:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3671/33333284631_c69d443943_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SMxNcZ)2017-03-15_04-11-53 (https://flic.kr/p/SMxNcZ) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
And should never have a main ground problem.
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While we're there, might as well DeOxit the neutral switch wire beside the Vaseline jar, and run a cloth down the clutch cable to find any broken strands in it. There weren't any.
Might as well clean up with some Stoddard solvent in my antique (naturally) Sure shot sprayer, salvaged from the dumpster at work because some clueless engineer threw it away. A 25 cent O ring fixed it, of course. :smiley:
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While we're there, a drop of MMO on the clutch arm pivot will keep it from freezing up some day, and the shift linkage could use a little too.
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Started pulling all electrical connections apart and De Oxiting them. Showed Tylon the occasional green pin/sockets that were just waiting for that dark rainy night to make themselves known. :smiley:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2859/32647023053_672746e1c4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RJUwxP)2017-03-15_04-10-13 (https://flic.kr/p/RJUwxP) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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Unbolted the Weird Harold start relay and gave it the.. oh you know the drill by now..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2836/32647020243_b5b478208b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RJUvHn)2017-03-15_04-10-38 (https://flic.kr/p/RJUvHn) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
along with the other two relays.
Here's another electrical failure waiting to happen. "I'm tellin ya, Fred.. them Guzzis just ain't no good. They break down all the time.."
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/777/32647010133_32fc962167_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RJUsH4)2017-03-15_04-09-48 (https://flic.kr/p/RJUsH4) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
DeOxit to the rescue..
Showed Tylon how you could get rid of rust by using aluminum foil and water. He was amazed. I think he may have some Harley genes, had a hard time getting him to quit polishing and get back to work. :smiley: :boozing:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/618/32647007643_bb7f6ced2c_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RJUrY8)2017-03-15_04-09-34 (https://flic.kr/p/RJUrY8) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Among the worthwhile mods the original owner did was to put dual banjos on the carbs.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/599/33333232471_9d08013d37_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SMxwGF)2017-03-15_04-09-12 (https://flic.kr/p/SMxwGF) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
The fuel lines are getting hard, though, so it'll get new ones when we start on the fuel system.
Here's the bearing mod to get rid of the loose ball bicycle type steering head bearings. I had a MKIII and didn't really have a problem with them, but apparently the original owner did.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3901/33305260152_a1d85c642a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SK5avj)2017-03-15_04-08-48 (https://flic.kr/p/SK5avj) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Just took this picture so I'd remember which fuse went where. I'm old.. :cool: This will be the last thing on the electrical system until I take off the fairing, and do the wiring/ignition switch.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/584/33333218361_db33ea2dbe_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SMxsvp)2017-03-15_04-08-27 (https://flic.kr/p/SMxsvp) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Here's what the back of the fuse block looks like..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/688/32646984393_a7fdaf1db2_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RJUk4g)2017-03-15_04-08-05 (https://flic.kr/p/RJUk4g) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Needless to say, each connector was pulled and cleaned.
Before.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/628/33305237362_db9dfc2bc1_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SK53Jo)2017-03-15_04-07-43 (https://flic.kr/p/SK53Jo) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Wire brushed, and waiting for new fuses.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3923/33333199381_d3d5159d5b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SMxmSa)2017-03-15_04-07-18 (https://flic.kr/p/SMxmSa) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Why didn't I replace all this stuff with modern ATO fuses? I'm basically lazy.. :smiley: and.. this stuff is perfectly adequate if you keep it clean and maintained. <shrug>
Tweeeet! Quitting whistle. It's officially beer o'clock. That makes 6 hours total now..
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Chuck,
you do such a clear & thorough job of documenting the tasks you take on even my wife complimented your posts. She who does not ride nor share my joy of working with mechanical things. :thumb:
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Chuck,
you do such a clear & thorough job of documenting the tasks you take on even my wife complimented your posts. She who does not ride nor share my joy of working with mechanical things. :thumb:
Thanks, Tim. I've found that a picture really *does* equal a thousand words sometimes. I've always been self taught by reading the manual.. but early on when I read, "Naturally, you will discombulate the thrunge washer after replacing the muffler bearing.." I often thought, "Now.. WTF does the thrunge washer *look like* so I can figure out how it is discombulated??" :grin:
Working with a kid that doesn't know a piston from a valve spring is a perfect example.. he's a good boy, and bright, but ignorant. Ignorance can be cured, but stupid is forever.. :smiley: :boozing:
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Good stuff!
I have gone to a progressive system where I brake up the inspection to 3 or 4 sessions. Engine, then frame stuff and then electrical.
My three machines are sorta spread out (locations).
Thanks for posting, picked up a couple of areas I should address.
Thanks, Mike.. Like an airplane, the *first* annual inspection is anal retentively comprehensive.. :smiley: After that, you pretty well know what is there, and can do the routine stuff each year. At least, that's what has been been working for me for the last.. uh..45 (!) years..
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Thanks, Mike.. Like an airplane, the *first* annual inspection is anal retentively comprehensive.. :smiley: After that, you pretty well know what is there, and can do the routine stuff each year. At least, that's what has been been working for me for the last.. uh..45 (!) years..
So you've been deep into aero engines, and deep into Moto Guzzi engines.
What's the difference between the way that an aero-ready Lycoming or Continental or even a Rotax engine for a light plane or experimental, and a Guzzi motorcycle engine is made, assembled, and wired?
Do airplane engines use the same kind of batteries, the same gauge of wire, the same type of connectors and relays etc as our motorcycle engines do? Are they made out of the same sort of material?
In other words, is the difference in quality of assembly and maintenance or is it in the design and materials?
Lannis
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The output this morning..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3737/33475135685_0dbc0f7d9b_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T15PzP)2017-03-16_11-12-24 (https://flic.kr/p/T15PzP) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Bead blasted, masked, primed and painted the acid damage on the battery tray and hold down strap. Anyone want to buy a Garden Tractor Battery cheap? :evil: :grin: (I sure miss my temporary paint booth that I had for 15 years)
Kirby 1923 brought up a point that I hadn't really thought about. The electrical systems of the small block and big block of that era are essentially the same. One thing that *needs* to be addressed is the ignition switch. We'll get to that, yet.
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So you've been deep into aero engines, and deep into Moto Guzzi engines.
What's the difference between the way that an aero-ready Lycoming or Continental or even a Rotax engine for a light plane or experimental, and a Guzzi motorcycle engine is made, assembled, and wired?
Do airplane engines use the same kind of batteries, the same gauge of wire, the same type of connectors and relays etc as our motorcycle engines do? Are they made out of the same sort of material?
In other words, is the difference in quality of assembly and maintenance or is it in the design and materials?
Lannis
Lannis, one of the things that attracted me to Guzzis was when I first saw one apart. I thought, "horry carp.. that's every bit as substantial as an aircraft engine."
Airplanes by design are extremely simple (except for helicopters, which are the work of the devil) :cool: :boozing: machines. About anything that can fail is done without. Of course, I only fool with antiques and homebuilts with the occasional spam can thrown in, but relays, for instance, are failure prone. There will normally be a big hunker switch. Wiring is the same gauge, but much higher quality and abrasion resistance. Connectors are the same type, but better quality. Circuit breakers instead of fuses. Batteries are stupid lead acid.. they are type certificated, and can't be changed from the original design of (probably) the 40s or 50s without a write off from the FAA. (Supplemental Type Certificate) so they suck. Expensive, and last for a couple of years if you're lucky. Some people.. I wouldn't know who.. illegally install an Odyssey for trouble free service, though. <whistling> The Odyssey *is* STCed on some aircraft, but getting an STC is fabulously expensive. There used to be "field approvals" done by FAA agents, but in today's litigious society it, for all practical purposes, doesn't happen.
Design and materials? Actually, they are top notch, if old fashioned by design.
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Great and useful thread Chuck , and good of you to give Tylon an opportunity to learn and us as well. I'm sure my daughters v50 needs much the same treatment so will be following along. Thanks for taking the time :thumb: Oh , and something about rubbing chrome with a ball of tin foil makes my teeth hurt. :popcorn:
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Design and materials? Actually, they are top notch, if old fashioned by design.
Thanks (and to kirby) for that.
That's one reason that 3 of my motorcycles have magnetos, which I have no intention of converting to an "electronic" system requiring a battery. Once they're rebuilt and the brushes cleaned occasionally, they're the most trouble free ignition I've got ....
Lannis
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Lannis, I'm sure that since you are riding those old Beezers cross country, you take as much care as I do. :smiley: And yes, while magnetos may not put out a very hot spark.. aircraft plugs are generally around .018" gap.. they'll do it indefinitely, and when they *really* get tired, they'll talk to you.
Modern electronic ignition will easily jump a .045" gap, and can have all sorts of magical things to do with timing, and seldom fail. What they don't do, however, is talk to you. :smiley: They'll be humming along, just like normal and then..... nothing.
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Ok, let's finish up the electrical system.
Anti seize on the plugs. This is a case of if a little is good, a lot is *not* better. :smiley: Be careful to not let it get beyond the first thread, or you'll have a mysteriously dead plug down the road. No need for a fancy torque wrench to install new plugs. Just bring it down to the crush washer and give it 3/4 of a turn.
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Uh oh. Two angle drives, both of them cracked. They're cheap, only $34.78 from Cheesehead and Gordon, but if I leave them alone, they'll probably be fine for years.
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Occasionally, a guy is better off not to mess with stuff.. :wink:
Lets' get the ignition switch out. It's only held in with a plastic unobtainium nut.
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Need I say more? :smiley:
Here's power to the whole bike. They are just bullet connectors, so take a picture so you know which one goes where. I put a red mark by the red wire.. take your duckbills and pull them out.
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Come up with a way of holding the switch without damaging it. I used a pair of V blocks just like machinists use. You could make something out of wood, or whatever you have laying around if you are short on V blocks. :smiley:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2819/33351977661_1777471712_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SPcAZB)2017-03-16_05-01-03 (https://flic.kr/p/SPcAZB) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
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Carefully pry up the three tabs.
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No need to mark how it goes together, it will only go one way. There is a *little* spring pressure, but not enough to be concerned with.
This one is in pretty good shape, but has dried up grease that will eventually cause an open or intermittent circuit. "I'm tellin you, Jethro.. you just cain't trust one of them Guzzis. Mine quit on me twicet on the way home..there must be something wrong with a carburator."
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2943/33096569890_a9f116b787_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SqCzam)2017-03-16_05-00-07 (https://flic.kr/p/SqCzam) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Clean off the old grease, and brighten up the contacts with your brass or stainless toothbrush.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2897/32666042903_2d17d0d254_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RLA1ug)2017-03-16_04-59-44 (https://flic.kr/p/RLA1ug) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Apply fresh Vaseline, and put it back together. No need to cave man it. Just tap the tabs back over. Spring pressure will want to hold it apart, so gently squeezing each in a vise with square jaws, or carefully peening them down until they quit moving is all that is necessary.
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DeOxit the bullet connectors.. sounds like a broken record, doesn't it? put em back in and slide the boot back up on it.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/579/32636734074_4749037240_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RHZMZC)2017-03-16_04-58-54 (https://flic.kr/p/RHZMZC) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Careful you don't cross thread the unobtainium plastic nut, and "King, this case is closed." :smiley: It took all of 25 minutes including taking pictures. Nothing to it. People b bb bbbuy new ignition switches (Guzzi content) when all they need is cleaning.
Removing the two screws here gives you access to DeOxit the panel light connectors.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2917/32636725554_9bf7f8422e_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RHZKsJ)2017-03-16_04-58-28 (https://flic.kr/p/RHZKsJ) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
That's it for the electrical system. It's about as close to new as a 35 year old machine will be..
Tweeeet! Beer o'clock.
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Nice job! I didn't think to open the switch on mine like that, but definitely a great idea and will do that to mine too.
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Nice job! I didn't think to open the switch on mine like that, but definitely a great idea and will do that to mine too.
Cool. Saving Guzzi Guys (and girls) money and aggravation.. that's what I do. :smiley:
"Jethro, you ever get that Guzzi running?" "Naw, I sold it to some sucker in Indiana for 500 bucks. What a POS." :boozing: :wink:
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Thanks Chuck, gonna bookmark this one :thumb:
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Thanks Chuck, gonna bookmark this one :thumb:
That makes it worthwhile. Thank YOU. :smiley:
Stay tuned. Don't touch that dial! Same bat time! Same bat channel!
Uh oh.. here come my handlers
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You're not going to take apart all those electrical connections again in 12 months, are you?
Careful is good, but .... ?
Lannis
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This one is in pretty good shape, but has dried up grease that will eventually cause an open or intermittent circuit.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2943/33096569890_a9f116b787_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SqCzam)
Thanks Chuck. Great thread. (love the photos) I've got a Monza and LMIII that both need this treatment. Will do.
Got to find DeOxit.
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You're not going to take apart all those electrical connections again in 12 months, are you?
Careful is good, but .... ?
Lannis
No. As I mentioned earlier in the thread.. the *first* inspection is the anal one. There would be no point in doing this again for several years. Once the electrical, mechanical, and fuel systems have been made "like new," next year's annual will be an inspection to make sure nothing is changed. Certainly a leak down test, new plugs, and a visual/hands on of cables, fasteners, brake pads, anything that can wear or come loose with vibration would be on the list.
Naturally, some things won't wait. Wheel bearing check at every tire change, spline lube, etc. but that is only part of maintaining a machine.
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It's much better to do this stuff on the side of the road after a 500 mile day on a poorly maintained two lane hi way 4 miles outside of East Alton, Il . As they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :evil:
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It's much better to do this stuff on the side of the road after a 500 mile day on a poorly maintained two lane hi way 4 miles outside of East Alton, Il . As they say, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. :evil:
True, true. At night. In the rain. :smiley:
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This is an epic thread that will serve the owners of early smallblocks (and vintage BB's) for years to come. A bookmark essential. We are indebted to you, Chuck, many thanks.
Will
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Chuck, couple of things I learned from Matt Forslund. Angle drives for tach and speedo. Get some small hose clamps and put them over the part that cracks. And make sure to put some grease in the engine end of the cables beneath the boots (I knew that but didn't bother to do it one time :( ). Ignition switch nuts. He has them. Chrome or black. Don't know where he gets them. He also has the nuts for the speedo trip odometer reset knob.
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Chuck, couple of things I learned from Matt Forslund. Angle drives for tach and speedo. Get some small hose clamps and put them over the part that cracks. And make sure to put some grease in the engine end of the cables beneath the boots (I knew that but didn't bother to do it one time :( ). Ignition switch nuts. He has them. Chrome or black. Don't know where he gets them. He also has the nuts for the speedo trip odometer reset knob.
Thanks for that, Charlie.. :thumb:
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This is great info Chuck, Thanks! I have the skills, tools
(http://thumb.ibb.co/cWZhWF/100_7202.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cWZhWF)
where can i upload pictures to share for free (http://imgbb.com/)
and now the knowledge to tackle the Sport :thumb: :evil:
Paul B :boozing:
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Thanks for the thread, brings back sweet memories of my Monza.
I remember putting used air shocks from a kawasaki gt550 (costing a fiver) and liking the ride. :)
Any low tech improvements on the horizon?
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Thanks for the thread, brings back sweet memories of my Monza.
I remember putting used air shocks from a kawasaki gt550 (costing a fiver) and liking the ride. :)
Any low tech improvements on the horizon?
Well, John A's transmission breather mod is on the schedule. Most of the stuff that really *needs* to be done to the old small blocks has already been done by the original keeper. :smiley:
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Thanks for that, Charlie.. :thumb:
So, in case I put foot in mouth (which I have done so many times before :) ), are the V50 ign switches the same size as the std switches? If not then I don't know if Matt has them or not. But, since he has collected parts from many of the now defunct dealers he may have them anyway. I know one of the guys here in NM restored a V50 with Matt's help.
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So, in case I put foot in mouth (which I have done so many times before :) ), are the V50 ign switches the same size as the std switches? If not then I don't know if Matt has them or not. But, since he has collected parts from many of the now defunct dealers he may have them anyway. I know one of the guys here in NM restored a V50 with Matt's help.
*I don't know* either, but they look the same from memory, and Guzzi being Guzzi, I'd bet a dollar they are. :smiley:
Ok, looked it up..
850T3, S3, T4, most T5, Convert, G5, 850 LeMans, LeMans II, CX100, LeMans III, LeMans 1000 all years LeMans IV and LeMans V, 1000S, Mille, SP1000, SP II, California II, California III, California 1100, V35, V50, V50 II, V50 III, Monza, V65C, V65SP, V65TT,
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Well, glad I wasn't totally brain dead :)
One other thing. Before I got one from Matt I did make one. I got a black PVC fitting the right size, chucked it in the lathe, bored, threaded. Worked pretty good. Sorry, can't do another since the lathe is gone.
PS at one time a few years ago I seem to remember someone posting in here that they made some every now and then for sale.
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For even a cheap Guzzi guy like me, I wouldn't be making one when they're $18 from Cheese and Gordon.. :smiley: At that price point, though.. I can almost guess where they are from. I'll clean up the old one.
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Thanks very much for all the time and care you took doing this. Threads like this are extremely useful and inspirational. Great public service!
I'm now congratulating myself for having the good common sense last month to go through every electrical connector, relay, fuse and such I could find on my V7 and cleaning them up and doing the Deoxit thing. Bike was new 3 years ago but I still found some cruddy looking connectors.
Quick question. Whenever people talk about protecting ground connectors or battery posts they specify using Vaseline. Not just any old grease--but Vaseline specifically.
Is there some reason Vaseline is better for this kind of electrical application?
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Well, I've put it off long enough. Pete says the reason he prefers fuel injection is that carbs "make your hands smell bad." :smiley: He's right of course, but <sigh> it's gotta be done. Remove the slide and choke plunger, and pull the carbs out.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3940/32670647494_a182620004_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RLZBgL)2017-03-18_02-43-10 (https://flic.kr/p/RLZBgL) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Drain into whatever you have.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2824/32699798653_e8f5b336cf_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RPz1TX)2017-03-18_02-39-15 (https://flic.kr/p/RPz1TX) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Here's the only place I can think of that uses a M14 wrench.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2874/32699808173_9985bd287f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RPz4J6)2017-03-18_02-39-36 (https://flic.kr/p/RPz4J6) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Tap all around the float bowl with your plastic hammer. Hmmm, it doesn't want to come off. See where the choke well is? If you can work a screwdriver in that area, and pry
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2908/33130751200_69a08f483f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/StDL5h)2017-03-18_02-39-56 (https://flic.kr/p/StDL5h) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
it'll come right off.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2923/32699817733_c8519fce05_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RPz7yV)2017-03-18_02-40-12 (https://flic.kr/p/RPz7yV) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
The o ring hangs up in the choke well, so a little leverage right there does the job.
Since it's been running ok, why did we do this? Two main reasons:
(1) and most important is to drain any accumulated water out of the float bowl. It's heavier than fuel, and will sit in the bottom of the bowl. So what, you say? Let me tell you a story. A guy called me one time and said he was at his wit's end. He'd be flying along in his Taylorcraft and that little Continental would be just purring along and then suddenly miss a beat. Back to purring. He said, he'd checked plugs, timing, cleaned the gascolator, checked compression, and nothing helped. It was getting to the point he was nervous about flying it. Did I have any idea what it was? I said, "No.. I know exactly what it is. You didn't drain the carb at the last annual did you?" "Er.. no." There is a reason that by regulation one of the maintenance items at an annual is to drain the carb. Don't ask me *why* it does it, I have a theory, but it does it.
(2) To check that it has the good black float. The white ones will cause you problems sooner or later, just like something with boobs, wheels, or wings. :smiley:
Note what jets, slide, etc. are in it for future reference, and avoid the temptation to clean it by dunking it in a can of nasty carb cleaner. :smiley: There's nothing wrong with it..carbs don't suddenly stop carburating. Just spray carb cleaner through the jets, blow them out, and reassemble.
Root around in your McMaster Carr motorcycle and homebuilt airplane supply and get some silicone fuel hose and new clamps. If there is any question about the rubber fuel lines, get rid of them.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2823/32670561324_a6fd55b647_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RLZaE5)2017-03-18_02-38-31 (https://flic.kr/p/RLZaE5) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Once you've installed the new fuel lines, you can spray carb cleaner on the outside. Safety glasses might be a good idea.. :cool:
One done, and one to go.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2830/32699788553_211a41e086_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RPyXTP)2017-03-18_02-38-51 (https://flic.kr/p/RPyXTP) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Before putting the carb back together, give an eyeball to the rubber gasket on the bottom of the choke plunger.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3695/32670555224_ff755f3f66_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RLZ8QU)2017-03-18_02-38-07 (https://flic.kr/p/RLZ8QU) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
This one looks ok, but if it's not, it can be turned over. You can replace the whole plunger if necessary. Cheap.
Dispose of the two float bowls worth of fuel and carb cleaner in an environmentally correct manner. I hope the little barstid gets cancer. :evil: If he makes it to Dorcia's flower beds, I'll have a full time job on my hands.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2827/33131795900_f40760caa6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/StK7Cm)2017-03-18_03-48-32 (https://flic.kr/p/StK7Cm) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
To be continued..
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Is there some reason Vaseline is better for this kind of electrical application?
Because Kiwi Roy sez to. <shrug> :smiley:
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I can't believe you haven't swapped those PHBH's for some swanky PHF's :evil:
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I can't believe you haven't swapped those PHBH's for some swanky PHF's :evil:
Eh, she makes enough power now. I wouldn't want her to get away from me.. :grin:
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Ok, Tylon.. :smiley: fuel valves are held in by a strange left hand right hand arrangement. Just loosen the nut and unscrew the whole assembly. Remember that I said water will go to the low place in the fuel system? The selector valve well is the low spot in the tank.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2912/33191148190_277e740d51_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SyZiZG)2017-03-21_02-22-50 (https://flic.kr/p/SyZiZG) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Probably wouldn't hurt to take a bottle brush and clean out a little rust out of the well.
The filter just screws on to the selector valve, take it off, and inspect the valve. Many times, some doofus will take the stand pipe off, and when you run out of fuel, you are *out* of fuel. :evil: You can see how it works. Fuel valve "on" fuel will stop flowing at the top of the stand pipe. Putting it on reserve lets fuel go in the hole that you can (barely) see in the top of the valve.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2909/33417548782_e872f5c972_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SUZF1b)2017-03-21_02-20-23 (https://flic.kr/p/SUZF1b) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Turn the valve to "reserve" and blow compressed air through it.
That's about it for the fuel valve. Gotta fix dinner.. back later.
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That pretty much finishes up the fuel system inspection/renovation.
The original owner did his own transmission breather mod, a necessary one on the small blocks.
A little history if you don't know, Tylon. :wink: Originally, Guzzi specified a full liter of fluid in the transmission. When filled to this level, oil puked out of the breather. Owners were upset with oil all over their new 'sickle, so Guzzi specified a fill of 900 cc instead of *fixing* the problem. :rolleyes: That starved the fifth gear of oil. :rolleyes: :rolleyes:. If you have a "whining" fifth gear, now you know why, and no.. adding super oil, putting additives, etc. won't fix it.
So, a preemptive strike is the way to go. Here's the original owner's method..
He removed the little mushroom cap and made a fitting for a hose that runs uphill..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2888/33446313671_4804d61ea3_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SXx6Nx)2017-03-21_03-35-04 (https://flic.kr/p/SXx6Nx) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
He ran the hose up to the steering neck. You can see it here.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3939/33446318571_b7005ce07f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SXx8g2)2017-03-21_03-35-18 (https://flic.kr/p/SXx8g2) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Not a bad idea, for 30some years ago, but transmission vapors eventually made a mess underneath the tank. You can see the accumulated oil/dust on the frame tube where I didn't clean it off.
Opps, Dorcia says she has the quinoa about ready, so I need to get back to fixing dinner.
Back later.
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John A says he has a better method for the trans vent, so off with the starter.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3713/32760257993_bfcf82f957_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RUUTmn)2017-03-21_02-35-52 (https://flic.kr/p/RUUTmn) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
John sent me a letter by Dave Hewitt, tech rep, to Guzzi in 1985, that addressed the small block transmission failures. In a classic case of Guzzi's right hand not knowing what the left hand was doing.. they apparently ignored it. :evil: :boozing:
So, here is what he said to do:
This requires a bit of faith to do this to a perfectly good transmission, :smiley: but John A is *not* the dumbest bear in the woods.. far from it.. and he said this was a good mod, so here goes. There is *supposedly* a cavity that doesn't get oil thrown at it from the gears behind here.
Center punch it so the drill bit will center on it and not wander..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3710/32735748144_9bb9a327a9_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RSKgqL)2017-03-21_07-56-42 (https://flic.kr/p/RSKgqL) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
I thought that the most tenacious grease I'd ever used is this stuff.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2836/32735745584_9a3ba4699f_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RSKfEC)2017-03-21_07-56-27 (https://flic.kr/p/RSKfEC) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
It's the best spline lube I've ever found, and trust me.. you won't fling it off.
Put some in the flutes of the drill bit and have at it. (R drill, the tap drill for a 1/8" pipe tap.)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3804/33449744941_bc704dd380_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SXQFNn)2017-03-21_07-56-11 (https://flic.kr/p/SXQFNn) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
There *really is* a cavity here. <wiping sweat off brow> :smiley:
Putting Wurth spooge in the flutes of the tap and tapping 1/8" pipe.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2911/33575210735_4569651d82_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T9VJpH)2017-03-21_03-17-22 (https://flic.kr/p/T9VJpH) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Yeah, baby! Looks good, and the very few chips can be cleaned up with a Q tip.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3762/33534538326_46e51c1ee4_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T6kgVh)2017-03-21_03-17-09 (https://flic.kr/p/T6kgVh) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Rummaging around in my "good plumbing junk" drawer finds a right angle fitting with ferrule and another with some 1/4" plastic pipe.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3847/33418125532_19e2b204a6_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SV3Cs9)2017-03-21_02-58-33 (https://flic.kr/p/SV3Cs9) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Screw that sucker into our newly made tapped hole, insert the plastic pipe.. sorry, forgot to take a picture.. <shrug> and run the pipe up the frame tubing. A couple of zip ties will keep it there.
Since the cavity is dry, I don't expect it to puke any oil vapors.. but to be belt and suspenders safe, I'll leave the original vent. :smiley:
It really does look to me to be the perfect solution. Why Guzzi didn't do it.. uh.. as usual, I don't know.
That pretty much does it except for putting everything back together.
Just a tip for putting the freshly cleaned and oiled K&Ns back on the carbs. They were stiff enough that I was struggling to put them back on. About 30 seconds from my Heat Gun From Hell (tm) :smiley: softened them up to where they just slid on.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2813/33576406345_df239e1183_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/Ta2RPF)2017-03-21_04-40-02 (https://flic.kr/p/Ta2RPF) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
One other thing. The intake rubbers on the small and big blocks have a tendency to crack right at the hose clamp locations.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3954/32761941313_d9b1d71748_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/RV4vK8)2017-03-21_04-29-11 (https://flic.kr/p/RV4vK8) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Take a *good* look at them, so you don't end up wondering why you get some popping on overrun and hesitation of acceleration from low throttle openings.
I'd already put new tires and brake pads on last fall, and lubed the splines at that time, so as far as I'm concerned, it will just be a matter of "routine maintenance" for the next several years.
I hope you've gotten something from this.. as I mentioned.. there just isn't much info here on the old small blocks. I *know* that Tylon learned a lot. :wink: :smiley:
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While we're here.. :smiley: the other mod needed on the old small blocks is the "rear drive mod." I did a tutorial on it a few years ago, but it's apparently gone missing.
Here's a brief synopsis:
Pull it apart, and you'll see the crown wheel bolts with plates under them.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/rear%20drive/V50stuff007_zpsa19269f6.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/rear%20drive/V50stuff007_zpsa19269f6.jpg.html)
The plates need to be removed, and Shnoor washers installed under the bolts. It'll take a puller to do this.
There is a shim between the two halves with gaskets. You'll need new gaskets.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/rear%20drive/V50stuff008_zps80913d5f.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/rear%20drive/V50stuff008_zps80913d5f.jpg.html)
The issue is not enough oil to the pinion bearings. This was corrected in late '87, but if you have an earlier one, this needs to be done. The idea is to drill a hole at a shallow angle so oil can get to the front bearing.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/rear%20drive/V50stuff010_zps88914f42.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/rear%20drive/V50stuff010_zps88914f42.jpg.html)
After that, the center shim can be rotated to form a pocket so the crown wheel will throw oil into it and make it's way to the front bearing. You'll need to open up a hole as the shim isn't symmetrical.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/rear%20drive/V50stuff015_zpsb4408524.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/rear%20drive/V50stuff015_zpsb4408524.jpg.html)
Here's the finished product.
(http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c294/elwood59/rear%20drive/V50stuff016_zpsad986e21.jpg) (http://s29.photobucket.com/user/elwood59/media/rear%20drive/V50stuff016_zpsad986e21.jpg.html)
That should pretty much cover it for the old small block mods.
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Thank you for taking the time to do this. I don't have a small block, but many of the items checked apply to a big block Cali and even Loop bikes for cleaning up the wiring.
Tom
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Thanks Chuck!
I used your rear drive mod a few years ago to fix mine and it's been fine! Never seen the vent behind the starter trick so thanks for that too.
Great posting.
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Thanks Chuck!
I used your rear drive mod a few years ago to fix mine and it's been fine! Never seen the vent behind the starter trick so thanks for that too.
Great posting.
Thanks to you, too. Between us we have most of the Monza Maintenance and Mods posted now. :smiley:
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Good stuff! :thumb:
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Awesome stuff Chuck! :thumb: Drilling that transmission case... *nail biter*
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Awesome stuff Chuck! :thumb: Drilling that transmission case... *nail biter*
Yeah, if I didn't know and trust John.. I'd probably have passed on that one, but sure enough there was a cavity there. :smiley:
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the first one I did, I used the original transmission breather fitting to keep my philosophy of using genuine parts when I can. The fitting was too big to fit between the webs so I had to modify the fitting to fit and ended up with a non standard part, so I would caution anybody to not use too big of fitting there. The neat part of this mod is that I can fill the transmission to the level hole with it leaned over on the sidestand with no leakage. I don't remember how much oil that is but Im sure 5th gear is adequately covered. Im amazed that a guy as obviously intelligent and talented as Chuck would start drilling holes in the side of his transmission :grin:
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Thanks for that Chuck. Informative and concise. Some really good tips there. :thumb:
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To continue with my "Just in the nick of time manufacturing," when I came up for lunch, the Fedex guy had left a brand new non garden tractor battery on the porch. Had to see if everything was working..
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2934/33435504402_c4d4a40c47_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SWzGzQ)2017-03-22_02-21-27 (https://flic.kr/p/SWzGzQ) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Will it start? Uhhh..yeah.
Practically instantly. I'd swear the headlight is brighter.. or it could
be my magination..
runnin away with me..
:smiley:
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3928/33463155011_a847d1919a_c.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/SZ2q9t)2017-03-22_02-21-11 (https://flic.kr/p/SZ2q9t) by Charles Stottlemyer (https://www.flickr.com/photos/107188298@N06/), on Flickr
Dang! Now I have to find something else to do.
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Im amazed that a guy as obviously intelligent and talented as Chuck would start drilling holes in the side of his transmission :grin:
D'oh! :smiley: :boozing: Suckered.
I could probably have done something a little more elegant, but that would have cost money. (Guzzi content) I just used what I had laying around. There's plenty of room for that right angle fitting.
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Theo Lamers used to carry (perhaps still do) a smallblock transmission vent that would simply screw on in place of the OEM mushroom fitting. Around 2001 I bought and fitted one to my V50 II, pushed a hose onto the barb and ran it up the frame. I have always run a full liter of gearbox oil without ever having a problem with puking. No drilling required. Moto International used to stock this part as well.
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Boy, Chuck, you sure do a lot more maintenance on your bikes than I do. And as long as I can still get rider mower batteries I will be using them if they fit the bike. :grin: Maybe the fact where you live there's a lot more humidity to deal with than where I live forces you to be a lot more anal in maintenance than me. My moto is if it ain't broke, don't fix it. Tho I've heard the older small blocks compared to my `04 750 Breva are a lot more maintenance demanding than my newer version. Or maybe it's just that I never had to maintain air planes that could kill a pilot if they had a hiccup. :undecided: Part of what I like about Guzzis is they don't require a lot of maintenance like some other brand bikes. Tho they do require more maintenance than my `91 Suzuki VX800 V twin.
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Well, Wayne.. this was the *first* inspection since I became the Monza's keeper. There were several little "gotchas" waiting in the wings (so to speak) in the electrical system, and a couple in the fuel system. Any one of those could have developed into a problem on the road.
Certainly, you don't have the rust/corrosion issues in Aridzona. This bike has spent it's entire life in Pennsylvania, now Indiana.
As far as that stupid garden tractor battery whose vents were spewing acid fumes on the diode board on one side and the regulator and fuse block on the other? That's a *really* bad idea, not to mention rusting the hold down bail and battery box floor.
Neil Young was right.. rust never sleeps. :smiley:
The "next" annual inspection will be just that. An inspection.
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Theo Lamers used to carry (perhaps still do) a smallblock transmission vent that would simply screw on in place of the OEM mushroom fitting. Around 2001 I bought and fitted one to my V50 II, pushed a hose onto the barb and ran it up the frame. I have always run a full liter of gearbox oil without ever having a problem with puking. No drilling required. Moto International used to stock this part as well.
That is apparently what the original owner did. There is no oil "dripping" but over the years there's been a fine mix of oil droplets and dirt that covers everything under the tank.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/3/2888/33446313671_4804d61ea3_c.jpg)
I did essentially the same thing on the Lario, but ran a tube into a catch bottle in the battery box. John A's method seems to me to be a good solution.
Guzzi has done *something* on the later models, though. I have an 04 Breva transmission in the Aero Lario now, and it doesn't leak oil when full even though it still uses the same little mushroom breather.
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There was a reason Dave thought the breather he came up with was better than the banjo fitting with the hose but I don't remember. If I had to guess Id say that with his, the oil quantity could be increased to a level that would insure adequate lubrication in all attitudes ie nose up, nose down, lean side to side. The other thing is that a lawn tractor battery is false economy, what I save on a battery is used up repairing corrosion and loss of reliability due to said corrosion on nearby electrical components. You can sure tell a lawn tractor battery has been used when you lift the seat. It takes a different mindset on maintenance if you plan to keep your machines out of the scrapheap. some of these things are getting old and at some point a little more care is justified.
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Well, Wayne.. this was the *first* inspection since I became the Monza's keeper. There were several little "gotchas" waiting in the wings (so to speak) in the electrical system, and a couple in the fuel system. Any one of those could have developed into a problem on the road.
Certainly, you don't have the rust/corrosion issues in Aridzona. This bike has spent it's entire life in Pennsylvania, now Indiana.
As far as that stupid garden tractor battery whose vents were spewing acid fumes on the diode board on one side and the regulator and fuse block on the other? That's a *really* bad idea, not to mention rusting the hold down bail and battery box floor.
Neil Young was right.. rust never sleeps. :smiley:
The "next" annual inspection will be just that. An inspection.
Oh, I didn't know you just acquired the Monza. :embarassed:
As far as using a rider mower battery, I've owned my `81 CX100 for over 30 years and all that time it's had RM batteries and never have I had any rust/corrosion issues anywhere. Maybe the bike having a Corbin fiberglass seat on it most the time helps, I don't know. Or maybe the fact most it's whole life has been spent in norCal or Aridzona helps. Did ride it to Guzzi Louisiana Rally 1 year in May but the humidity was tolerable then. :smiley: Sure liked that soft ground water they have. :thumb: compared to our hard Western water. :sad: I've had numerous Guzzis over the years and they've all had RM batteries except the LM IV & 750 Breva because 1 wouldn't fit on them. :evil: And their undersized batteries wouldn't last as long as a RM battery and cost more! Grrrr
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Ive not had that good of luck with mower batteries. Environment sounds like a big part of that, with the battery having a higher discharge in cold weather starting it probably outgasses more. add to that I would run it up to age related failure where it starts outgassing because of that.
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Who signed off the brake fluid change? You probly did it when you did the other fluids but I'm checking. I have to kick myself to do it, hopefully once a year. I hate to fool with it and risk fluid on the paint and the occasional oops, one pump too many on a fully( finally) bled system. Thanks for the post!
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Who signed off the brake fluid change? You probly did it when you did the other fluids but I'm checking. I have to kick myself to do it, hopefully once a year. I hate to fool with it and risk fluid on the paint and the occasional oops, one pump too many on a fully( finally) bled system. Thanks for the post!
That's something I forgot to mention. After I got back to where I could *do* something last Summer, I installed new tires, greased the splines with Wurth, installed new brake pads, and changed out the fluid. Signed that off in my maintenance log. :smiley: What I *didn't* do was change out the discolored no doubt hard as carborundum hose from the reservoir to the rear master. I had visions of cracking the reservoir nipple getting the hose off. :grin:
Don't ask me how I know this can happen..
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Who signed off the brake fluid change? You probly did it when you did the other fluids but I'm checking. I have to kick myself to do it, hopefully once a year. I hate to fool with it and risk fluid on the paint and the occasional oops, one pump too many on a fully( finally) bled system. Thanks for the post!
You guys are way better than me.
If any you guys buy any of my bikes at the estate sale, be sure to change the fluid in the brakes. I've never done it on any bike I've ever owned .... But never had a problem with the brakes either.
Lannis
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You guys are way better than me.
If any you guys buy any of my bikes at the estate sale, be sure to change the fluid in the brakes. I've never done it on any bike I've ever owned .... But never had a problem with the brakes either.
Lannis
You might want to talk to Muley about what happens (or, more importantly, DOESN'T happen) if you neglect your brake fluid for too long. Or you could just find out for yourself. If you choose the latter, I would recommend you not do it like he did and find out while coming down US276 between the BRP and the Blue Ridge Motorcycle Campground.
Howard, with the fresh brake fluid.
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Lannis's bikes probably have cables.. :boxing: :smiley:
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Lannis's bikes probably have cables.. :boxing: :smiley:
Quite a few do ... but after I read what I wrote and thought about what I'd think of it if someone ELSE wrote it, I went and bought a two-stroke mixing syringe, and some tubing to fit my Mity-vac, and I'll start on the Stelvio, I think. The fluid in that is from the factory 8 years ago .... It still "looks" good and the brakes work great, but the peer pressure is starting to get to me.
So if I screw up this job, I'll know who to blame .... :whip2:
Lannis
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I mostly only change brake fluid if it get's low for some reason or if when changing the brake pads it needs some new fluid. :azn: But again I don't live/ride in high humidity areas.
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Wow! This is a really useful thread. Thanks Chuck!
Anyone know how to bookmark a thread? I had a click around but couldn't see how to do it.
- Pasta
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Bookmark it in your browser, the forum doesn't seem to have a built-in bookmark feature.
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D'oh! Thanks!
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It's always entertaining and educational to follow your procedures and display of skill. I would like to suggest this time perhaps including an assistant
(http://thumb.ibb.co/kTW8mF/16697215280_55e6ca7193_b.jpg) (http://ibb.co/kTW8mF)
to help with parts cleaning, measuring and tool selection. For educational purposes of course. :evil:
Paul B :popcorn: :boozing:
Yes.
Probably take a bit to get roadworthy, hard to get parts and a bugger to work on, but I thought her help with tool selection would be handy at times.