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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Eric on May 21, 2017, 08:49:02 AM
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I was going over my 2017 Norge and the cracks that began years ago are getting worse. I imagine it will come apart soon. Does anyone have experience with reinforcing thee plastic panels? I've read about Plastex on this forum. I wonder if that works or if there are other solutions.
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Thank goodness, I was afraid you were going to talk about body cracks.
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Can you determine what plastic they are? Some automotive plastics are embossed with "ABS" or some variation of it.
If it is ABS, they can be repaired with ABS glue (available at most plumbing supply stores) and Legos.
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I was going over my 2017 Norge and the cracks that began years ago are getting worse. I imagine it will come apart soon. Does anyone have experience with reinforcing thee plastic panels? I've read about Plastex on this forum. I wonder if that works or if there are other solutions.
I wouldn't be too concerned Eric. Being a 2017 Norge it's a pretty rare bike and will be collectable regardless. If you need good advice you might be able to scour the forum and find Phil Mc Cracken's details. :wink:
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Being a 2017 Norge it's a pretty rare bike and will be collectable regardless.
Yes, I can see the confusion. And I've had it for close to 10 years which makes it a pretty forward thinking design. 2007 seems to be a more likely explaination, though. :laugh:
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Since you're gonna have to remove the panels to repair them, then take them to a plastic welder for reinforcement.
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Yes, I can see the confusion. And I've had it for close to 10 years which makes it a pretty forward thinking design. 2007 seems to be a more likely explaination, though. :laugh:
Yeah, we all knew what you meant Eric. I've got an '07 Norge as well, owned from new with 130,000 k. One or two attachments have parted company, but I use a zip tie if I need to remove the panel. Not ideal but easy enough. BTW, did you get in contact with a Phil regarding the cracks ? Without putting too blunt a point on it, there might be other sites on the net more dedicated to examination of body cracks as you say. :popcorn:
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I used SMC resin and fiberglass cloth to good effect.
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I used SMC resin and fiberglass cloth to good effect.
I've used regular epoxy and fiberglass cloth to do plastic/pvc type. Is SMC similar to epoxy? Is it easy to sand?
Good timing on this thread. I need to start repairing some plastic crack on a Le Mans 4, various parts so looking to see what may be better than what I was planning to use (epoxy and fiberglass cloth)
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I've used regular epoxy and fiberglass cloth to do plastic/pvc type. Is SMC similar to epoxy? Is it easy to sand?
Good timing on this thread. I need to start repairing some plastic crack on a Le Mans 4, various parts so looking to see what may be better than what I was planning to use (epoxy and fiberglass cloth)
It's what is used on plastic energy absorbers on cars. Why would you want to sand it?
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It's what is used on plastic energy absorbers on cars. Why would you want to sand it?
To sand it smooth then paint over it.
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To sand it smooth then paint over it.
Why in the world would you want to do that? I always make the repair on the back. <scratching head> Then, at worst you'll only have to use some feather fill or equivalent on the front, sand, prime, and paint. At best, you'll have to do nothing more.
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here is the work done on the panels on my Greenie. My body guy Dusty (Central Customs in OKC) uses 3M 04247 two part filler epoxy + adhesion promoter. He filled, bonded and sanded. Since he knew I didn't want to paint it, he was limited to working on the backside only.
I gave him the paint recipe using the candy paints from House of Kolor and may go that route in future.
(https://g4.img-dpreview.com/0C5BA66F1D4D4F608B662C4795049B49.jpg)(https://g1.img-dpreview.com/50F6C6246DC942FBB7F5D5E88D09309D.jpg)
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I have been using thin aluminium sheet stuck to the back side with JB Weld to re-enforce the attachment points.
Sent from my shoe phone!
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I have been using thin aluminium sheet stuck to the back side with JB Weld to re-enforce the attachment points.
Sent from my shoe phone!
Hmmmmm.
That's interesting. Will try ... well, if it happens again, anyway. :wink:
Bill
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I will check out the fibreglass tape. I have a fastening point (a grommet that attaches to a peg) that broke off too. JB Weld? I'm not sure anything is strong enough for that sort of application. I will google "servicing body cracks" and see what comes up. Perhaps there's not much strong enough for that application either.
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try what you want but the 3M stuff works.
Or send it to Dusty at Central Customs in OKC and fix the whole mess for $60.
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try what you want but the 3M stuff works.
Or send it to Dusty at Central Customs in OKC and fix the whole mess for $60.
Hmm. I can send it out to them by mail? That might be the best choice.
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Hmm. I can send it out to them by mail? That might be the best choice.
Sure. But there are probably a 100 body shops in your town that use the 3M stuff. They use it to fix plastic bumpers and the like.
Dusty (the body guy, not OUR Dusty) fixed the side panel off my EV when someone broke it by yanking it off (the guy apparently didn't realize there were screws in it). Dusty fixed it with the 3M stuff 7 or 8 years ago, stronger than new. The Greenie cracked all by itself. We'll see how it holds up.
I didn't want to paint the Greenie like he did for the red EV,
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I wouldn't be too concerned Eric. Being a 2017 Norge it's a pretty rare bike and will be collectable regardless. If you need good advice you might be able to scour the forum and find Phil Mc Cracken's details. :wink:
His mate Ben Dern will know where he is !!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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His mate Ben Dern will know where he is !!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I could try Ronald Dover's brother Ben. Worth a try KK ? Or Dave Hunt's brother Mike !
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I could try Ronald Dover's brother Ben. Worth a try KK ? Or Dave Hunt's brother Mike !
Lol, has Mr Trump got a brother ?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Chuch Mentioned fiberglass cloth. I have used that as well. Available at most hobby shops. I mix the epoxy, paint it onto the area in question on the back side after having prepped the area by sanding a bit, lay the glass into the epoxy, and dab more epoxy into the glass until it is saturated. It leaves a good strong repair. I have done this successfully on several plastic parts over the years.
So, hit the hobby shop. Pick up some fiberglass cloth and two part liquid epoxy. You may find two types of cloth. Depending on the type of repair, (IIRC), they have their merits for certain applications. Don't remember what though. There may be a woven type cloth and another that the fibers are random. Perhaps someone may know which would be better for this repair. Boatdetective would be a good person to inquire about this.
***Disclaimer*** I have not tried this on Guzzi body panels but I don't know why it would not work............... .
John Henry
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Chuch Mentioned fiberglass cloth. I have used that as well. Available at most hobby shops. I mix the epoxy, paint it onto the area in question on the back side after having prepped the area by sanding a bit, lay the glass into the epoxy, and dab more epoxy into the glass until it is saturated. It leaves a good strong repair. I have done this successfully on several plastic parts over the years.
So, hit the hobby shop. Pick up some fiberglass cloth and two part liquid epoxy. You may find two types of cloth. Depending on the type of repair, (IIRC), they have their merits for certain applications. Don't remember what though. There may be a woven type cloth and another that the fibers are random. Perhaps someone may know which would be better for this repair. Boatdetective would be a good person to inquire about this.
***Disclaimer*** I have not tried this on Guzzi body panels but I don't know why it would not work............... .
John Henry
As far as the hobby cloths go, they're different weights; Think burlap sac versus bed sheets as far as the weave/weight goes.
This is the stuff I have used, and also my disclaimer on never having used it on the guzzi plastic material parts.
http://www.hobbico.com/shop/accys/hcar5000.php
Also on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Hobbico-Square-Fiberglass-Cloth-2-Ounce/dp/B000X4MS4Y
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Are we talking about repairing fiberglass or ABS plastic body parts? If the latter, I've found fiberglass repairs to be less than ideal.
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His mate Ben Dern will know where he is !!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
C'mon guys, ya gotta admit, that was funny.. :thumb:
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A quick tutorial, but the pictures didn't come with the copy and paste. You can see the pix in the Aero engine build page 21..
Ok, let's finish this up. Here's the stuff to repair cast plastic and fiberglass. It uses standard Cream hardener (keep that stuff out of your eyes) in a ratio of 3/4 teaspoon to 1/2 cup, according to my engineering conversion program, not available for Mac. ~; ;D
You'll have about 15 minutes from start to finish, so have everything ready before mixing.
Mix much more thoroughly than you think you need to. ;) and using a throw away 1 inch paint brush, apply the resin. Lay the first piece of cloth. Here's the trick. Take a dry brush, and using rapid up and down motion, force the resin up through the weave. This process is called stippling. Most people put on too much resin, resulting in a brittle layup. Continue, using some fresh resin as necessary until you have at least 4 layers.
That'll finish up that little job. While we're waiting for it to cure, lets finish up the wings. This is another mold maker's tool, called an abrasive roll. It just twists on to the mandrel. Using the pencil grinder lets you make delicate cuts, and dress the radius on the fairing without making a mess of it.
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Link to Chuck's Aero Build, Page 21:
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=65696.600
Good stuff there. The SMC does look like a better option than epoxy.