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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Testarossa on June 19, 2017, 11:33:48 AM
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Over the years I've acquired a number of rotary brushes in steel and brass and composite materials, used for cleaning rust and old paint from steel. I've never dared use them on aluminum, but I ran across this: http://www.sitbrush.com/Industrial-Technical-Brushes/Light-Alloys-Aluminium-Brushes.php (http://www.sitbrush.com/Industrial-Technical-Brushes/Light-Alloys-Aluminium-Brushes.php)
Seems some brushes are designed specifically for cleaning/polishing high-precision aluminum surfaces. So I'm thinking the proper set of power-tool brushes would greatly simplify cleaning wheels, cooling fins, cases etc.
Any recommendations for brush materials/polishing compounds?
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Over the years I've acquired a number of rotary brushes in steel and brass and composite materials, used for cleaning rust and old paint from steel. I've never dared use them on aluminum, but I ran across this: http://www.sitbrush.com/Industrial-Technical-Brushes/Light-Alloys-Aluminium-Brushes.php (http://www.sitbrush.com/Industrial-Technical-Brushes/Light-Alloys-Aluminium-Brushes.php)
Seems some brushes are designed specifically for cleaning/polishing high-precision aluminum surfaces. So I'm thinking the proper set of power-tool brushes would greatly simplify cleaning wheels, cooling fins, cases etc.
Any recommendations for brush materials/polishing compounds?
I'm betting you are in uncharted waters.. :smiley:
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I use a wheel made of denim and white buffing rouge. Don't think I would use wire if you plan to polish it after wards.
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Like Dan says, most aluminum (aluminium for you Commonwealth types) rotary tools are some sort of durable cloth, usually used with a polishing or cutting compound. I note in the page you linked, the descriptions include the phrase 'abrasive nylon' as one media offered. The do mention metallic wire and stainless steel, but some of the brushes they're talking about are pretty heavy industrial...
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I've been scolded by metalworkers for using steel and brass media (brushes, steel wool, etc) on aluminum. shards get embedded in the aluminum, contaminating it. Same for silica blasting. For polishing small parts they like rouge and padded applicators. For large areas the boat fabricators use a flapper wheel or polishing wheel and rubbing compounds/grits.
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Any brush will leave scratch marks regardless on the material in is made of.
A cloth buffing wheel will be OK for a polished finish.
If you really want to get serious about it these guys know their stuff: http://www.buffpolishgrind.com/
One of my favorites for small jobs, such as bicycle parts, is SimiChrome Polish. You can get it a Napa and online.
The manufacturer also make BlueAway, which is for removing the blue on exhaust pipes. I haven't tried it, but will be soon.
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:popcorn:
Battery powered toothbrushes with simple green, semi.chrome, and Zaino .....keeps me busy for days, weeks, months....years even. My ex says it was the best thing for our relationship....I did say ex, didn't I? They've taken away all the fun stuff that explodes and left me with...polish.
If it needs polish, there I must go...
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The caution on aluminum will be if there is cladding it will ruin that. Blue away on exhaust works but it also changes what ever is used on the surface so that as it ages, it is more prone to corrosion.
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:for cleaning cast I use scotchbrite rotory wheels at low speed, not the type used on a small angle grinder. Otherwise I blast with walnut shells.
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They do list an abrasive nylon brush in various grits that might be useful. Never used one but have used rubberized abrasive wheels both bench mounted and on small Dremel tool points. If the nylon brushes work like these then it would be a good first pass on removing corrosion. I expect they are pricey though.
Pete
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for rusty chrome I use wax and fine steel wool . cleans off the corrosion and protects it from further corrosion.
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Yes, the abrasive nylon is pricey and on top of that they don't last long.... But it does work and not imbed any foreign matl.