Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: drdwb on June 24, 2017, 09:24:53 PM
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I would like to poss a question to the collective group about questionable design decisions that were incorporated into our Guzzi's.
I'll start with having the oil filter in the oil pan, I ve heard the arguments that it makes you take a closer look at your engine when you change oil but still it's an extra hassle that didn't have to be. Yes I know there are outsiders to remedy that but on my wife 04 Stone the extension of the pan caused serious problems going over a oversized speed bump. Outsider since removed.
But my lastest question has to do with the little rubber spacers that occupy the rear tire hub of the 750 Breva, this just adds additional stress when trying to reinstall a new tire, if you haven't seen this set up its worth looking at,it's a head scratcher on why they had to do it when it's so much simpler on the California model s.
So those are my 2 starters any other examples?
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When you know what those things are, they look a little less stupid, and . . . ummm. . . . . well, I'll let it rest there. :lipsrsealed:
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OP didn't grow up on old Brit bikes . Spacers everywhere :rolleyes:
Dusty
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I would like to poss a question to the collective group about questionable design decisions that were incorporated into our Guzzi's.
I'll start with having the oil filter in the oil pan, I ve heard the arguments that it makes you take a closer look at your engine when you change oil but still it's an extra hassle that didn't have to be. Yes I know there are outsiders to remedy that but on my wife 04 Stone the extension of the pan caused serious problems going over a oversized speed bump. Outsider since removed.
But my lastest question has to do with the little rubber spacers that occupy the rear tire hub of the 750 Breva, this just adds additional stress when trying to reinstall a new tire, if you haven't seen this set up its worth looking at,it's a head scratcher on why they had to do it when it's so much simpler on the California model s.
So those are my 2 starters any other examples?
How did you like taking the lower left fairing panel half off to check the oil level ? Teo Lamers extension remedy. Stupid up/down switches for the screen ? Install two way switch on the fairing panel directly below left grip. There's another two for you, I could go on but the other mods I did were cosmetic... Oh, and how about the poxy original map that threatened to detonate the guts out of your motor, ( mostly left side). Beetle and Roper fix. The rest of the forum'll thank you if you don't get me started on the other stuff. Bike's trouble free now @ 130,000 and I would not sell it for twice it's current value. PS, did anyone mention startups interruptus ? How about the beaut drive splines and suspension bearings that are delivered as dry as a ***'* **** ! BTW it's an '07 Norge, love the bastard and always have !
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I would like to poss a question to the collective group about questionable design decisions that were incorporated into our Guzzi's.
I'll start with having the oil filter in the oil pan, I ve heard the arguments that it makes you take a closer look at your engine when you change oil but still it's an extra hassle that didn't have to be.
I you look at your owners manual, I think you'll find the recommended change interval for the oil filter is NOT at every oil change.
So, if you only change it every second or third oil change, is the oil filter in the pan really that big a deal ???
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I would like to poss a question to the collective group about questionable design decisions that were incorporated into our Guzzi's.
I'll start with having the oil filter in the oil pan, I ve heard the arguments that it makes you take a closer look at your engine when you change oil but still it's an extra hassle that didn't have to be. Yes I know there are outsiders to remedy that but on my wife 04 Stone the extension of the pan caused serious problems going over a oversized speed bump. Outsider since removed.
But my lastest question has to do with the little rubber spacers that occupy the rear tire hub of the 750 Breva, this just adds additional stress when trying to reinstall a new tire, if you haven't seen this set up its worth looking at,it's a head scratcher on why they had to do it when it's so much simpler on the California model s.
So those are my 2 starters any other examples?
There's no real mystery if you look at the big picture.
Companies have a culture to them, engineering development has a culture as well, a way of proceeding that is subtle but very human and will vary between organizations even when following the same rules. That's why GM cars aren't just like Ford or Dodge.
Guzzi is no different.
Now add in two more factors, money and lawyers. Given the time (which is money) and money an engineer can absolutely perfect a system. OK, not perfect but get it REALLY good. Not gonna happen IRL. And the risk management will bend the design to ensure the company doesn't go broke because of an idiot who mishandled the product. That is why Norge is known to have a starting issue, lawyers want the key switch to break the circuit.
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If you're frustrated by oil/filter changes on a Guzzi, then DON"T buy any KTM bike !!! :shocked: They make your Guzzis look just fine. :wink:
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Oil filters inside the pan were the norm from the invention of oil filters until some bright guy got the idea of hanging one on the outside. Guzzi just thought about it a bit, considered that the early externals were vulnerable to road damage, and decided that the old design was good enough to continue with for the foreseeable future. Note that even the design used on CARC bikes is distinct from that used on most other motorcycles, with the spin-off still recessed into the pan for protection.
As far as the rubber blocks at the rear wheel, they are present on the vast majority of motorcycles (other than single-side swingarm designs). These blocks, often called 'cush blocks' are to cushion the on-off pressures of the drive system to the wheel. Without them, the strain on the belt, chain, or shaft would be sharper and more frequent, and the comfort of the ride reduced. In models where this need is meant elsewhere in the drive train, the cush blocks aren't present - but it just means the shock is being handled somewhere else. My V-Strom had them - and it had chain drive, an engine set the other way, and no Italians involved in its design at all!
BTW, dealing with the cush blocks is fairly simple once you know the trick. Before re-mounting the wheel, use a small amount of vaseline or even a water-soluble gel to 'tack' them in place so you don't have to fight with them while you put the wheel into place.
As far as the filter in the sump being a dinosaur? Well, it rather is - but then, birds are dinosaurs too, and rather charming ones we'd rather not do without. :grin:
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I admit changing a rear rim/tire on a small block vs. a big block Guzzi is harder from the time my `04 750 Breva was made. And expecting both brand bikes to be the same in this area, it's harder to do on a small block than a prior big block, but being a slow learner I attempted it like I had always done it on my big blocks. I got it done but it was more of a PIA. Then I found out those newer Guzzi owners than me approached it a different sequential way and didn't get so frustrated because they hadn't accepted the old way as the only way, I tried their sequential way and found out it's easier overall. Live and learn. Teach an old dog a new method. I use GP grease to keep the rubber cushions in place either way, but it's still easier to do the new way. To counter having to do this methodology more often than really needed I put on a taller rear tire that lasts longer. :thumb:
If you think changing a rear tire on a 750 Guzzi is hard, don't even attempt the same thing on an Italian maxi-scooter or you will REALLY get frustrated. :shocked:
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If you think changing a rear tire on a 750 Guzzi is hard, don't even attempt the same thing on an Italian maxi-scooter or you will REALLY get frustrated. :shocked:
There was a scooter on the lift at my tire shop. It looked like they had half the bike apart to change the tire.
On the oil filter thing. The filter inside the pan is a safe place to put it. Or in a recess in the pan is good as well to keep it from damage. HD stuck the DG filter in a safe place on my HD dyna, but no matter how you remove it, there is oil all over the engine. Yes I have popped a hole in the filter to let the oil drain via a bit of foil and plenty of rags.
Tom
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But my lastest question has to do with the little rubber spacers that occupy the rear tire hub of the 750 Breva, this just adds additional stress when trying to reinstall a new tire, if you haven't seen this set up its worth looking at,it's a head scratcher on why they had to do it when it's so much simpler on the California model s.
What I do:
Fit wheel into the area beside final drive box. Lift wheel up and slide axle through. This supports the wheel weight for the next step. Slide wheel on axle up to the cush drive rubbers. Apply a bit of side force while pushing the rubbers, one at a time, either side of the tang on the drive box. Rotate wheel with side load kept applied to do the next set, the next set and so on. the last set done will see the wheel slide all the way in. takes as long to do as it will to read this out loud.
I think it's a good design, simple, clean, effective.
Ensure any grease you apply is for rubber, as those greases not intended for rubber will cause deterioration over time. I've never applied grease to mine and they're original 150,000 km blocks i think. Can't remember replacing them.
Kev.
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It seems to me that the oil filter on the recent V7's IS internal. The difference is that you don't have to drop the oil pan to get to it, just remove the access cover.
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I you look at your owners manual, I think you'll find the recommended change interval for the oil filter is NOT at every oil change.
So, if you only change it every second or third oil change, is the oil filter in the pan really that big a deal ???
Not for me. 105,000 miles on my 2001 EV and I'm not interested in changing to external.
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Let's compare the ability to check the valves yourself or even a mechanic in about 15 minutes, compared to the hassle of changing the oil filter. I'll take the pan hassle as opposed to a $800? service call on a more sophisticated bike.
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Note that even the design used on CARC bikes is distinct from that used on most other motorcycles, with the spin-off still recessed into the pan for protection.
Maybe they got that idea from the BMW Oilheads.
On the oil filter thing. The filter inside the pan is a safe place to put it. Or in a recess in the pan is good as well to keep it from damage. HD stuck the DG filter in a safe place on my HD dyna, but no matter how you remove it, there is oil all over the engine. Yes I have popped a hole in the filter to let the oil drain via a bit of foil and plenty of rags.
Tom
For years I used cardboard and rags, but I finally bought a plastic oil filter drain funnel made for Harleys and I don't get A DROP on the motor.
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Some riders should not ride Italian bikes, if it's too much, ride something else.
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Some riders should not ride Italian bikes, if it's too much, ride something else.
Some riders should get a bus pass.
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I think that the way to look at the filter issue is that the basic architecture for the original V-Twin is not too far removed from the time when there were no filters whatsoever but rather, filtration was often laid off on sludge traps and the odd "screen" and oil changes were suggested at ridiculously low mileages.
Probably - me not having the opportunity to be contemporary to the events - the filter, regardless of where it was placed, was quite a step up in long term ownership practicality. It just took forever-and-a-day to alter the concept to accessibility without pan removal.
Too, of course, for most of us - the real issue of it being in the pan is not the time or hassle but the possibility of cross threading pan bolts when in a hurry.
Today's oil and filters make a mockery of the original change schedules as well.
Todd.
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On many 4 stroke motors before they had oil filters they had a screen and you changed the dino oil every 1,500 miles instead. How long those motors lasted I don't know. My 650 Yamaha twins were like that.
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You can gain valuable insight into all tools, devices, and the world by working in the manufacturing business and quality assurance. Once you see all the errors and human foibles involved in something so simple as getting a fastener from customer fantasy to billable delivery, your threshold for head scratching will be significantly rearranged.
I've seen drawings for parts that if you met all the dimensions called out then NOTHING would be left in existence. I watched C-beams glitter in the dark near the Tannhäuser Gate. :evil:
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I you look at your owners manual, I think you'll find the recommended change interval for the oil filter is NOT at every oil change.
So, if you only change it every second or third oil change, is the oil filter in the pan really that big a deal ???
The workshop manual for California EV states that oil and filter change every 6000 miles.
That is what I do...(semisynt 10-40)
:thumb:
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The next person complaining about how long it takes to service a Guzzi needs to come round and help me service my other 2 bikes, Ducati, ever tried measuring zero and shim it with the most ludicrously difficult and expensive shims (not to mention the crazy belt drive nonsense) , or maybe the FZ750 20 valve DOHC under bucket shims, thats always good for a laugh.
A guzzi vales and filter takes an hour at most. Not 3 days.
Kev
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Yes, it definitely could be worse. To check the top spark plug on a V-Strom, I believe the tank has to come off, as does the insulating plate underneath. And how the inline fours with everything enshrounded in fairings manage spark plugs, I shudder to think.
Yes the cush rubbers can be a PITA. My current solution is to raise the bike 2" on a couple of 2x4's under the centrestand. This not only provides enough clearance to remove & replace the wheel past the mudguard, but also seems to provide plenty of room to enable the hub with it's cush rubbers to be aligned with the tangs & slip on cleanly. One 2x4 under the RHS also works well - the rubbers tend not to fall out so easily. The last time I did it (just a few days ago) only a couple of rubbers fell out once. It may not be an elegant design, but it is a simple one & seems to work. This time, only one of the cush rubbers was broken. The maximum I've ever had was 3 broken ones.
For the 14 or so bolts on the 1100's sump (& the 10 on the Enfield's primary case) the whine of an electric screwdriver is a most satisfying sound.
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The workshop manual for California EV states that oil and filter change every 6000 miles.
That is what I do...(semisynt 10-40)
:thumb:
That same manual states the oil should be Agip 4t super racing sae 20w50 which is a Full Synthetic oil.
For the hydro motors, the spec was changed to be 5w40 Full Synthetic.
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Some riders should not ride Italian bikes, if it's too much, ride something else.
Exactly. Buy a Harley take it to the shop.
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Exactly. Buy a Harley take it to the shop.
Why, the oil filter is right there in the open and the lifters are hydraulic.... Easy peasy. [emoji48]
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Why, the oil filter is right there in the open and the lifters are hydraulic.... Easy peasy. [emoji48]
Because the "typical" Harley rider couldn't unscrew an oil filter if they could identify it. At least that's been my observation. "I had to wait 3 weeks to get my oil changed..should have trailered it to the dealer last winter." <shrug> "Seriously?"
:whip2:
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Because the "typical" Harley rider couldn't unscrew an oil filter if they could identify it. At least that's been my observation. "I had to wait 3 weeks to get my oil changed..should have trailered it to the dealer last winter." <shrug> "Seriously?"
:whip2:
So what? I mean really.
What you just described is the typical "rider" not just Harleys, but bikes. There are plenty of Guzzi, BMW, Ducati, JAPanInc. etc. riders who don't work on their own bikes, just like most people who own cars don't either.
What does it matter?
Not everyone is a hobbyist who wants to spend hours in their garage.
Hell even I don't want to spend any more time in the garage than necessary anymore. I'd rather spend that time riding or with my family.
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To the OP's point however, I think whoever designed the lego switchgear of the 70s and 80s deserved to be shot. Or at least paraded naked through the streets of Mandello del Lario followed by greasy bikers ringing bells and shouting "Shame! SHAME!"
- Pasta
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Thank you Steam driven and others who posted the tricks to rear tire change, This was my first tire change on the Breva, I should have read the book before I took it apart, but the design on our California's and my Norge was so simple it never occurred to me they would change such a simple set up.
Don't get me wrong I do love ridding and owing Guzzi's other wise We wouldn't have four of them. The 2 California's are like working on my old 1940's 2 N Ford tractor, The Norge and Breva the learning curve is steeper and requires more thinking and less beer until the job is complete.
Only other bikes I work on for comparison are our Yamahas which being late 70' early 80's are also pretty straight forward.
My point in the post was not necessarily to complain but more me asking about simplicity of wrenching, I'm thinking about trying fix a Breva rear tire blow out while on the road far from my shop and bike lift, I know I'd get it done, but I would not be a happy camper.
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That same manual states the oil should be Agip 4t super racing sae 20w50 which is a Full Synthetic oil.
For the hydro motors, the spec was changed to be 5w40 Full Synthetic.
:rolleyes:
Must be a different shop manual.??
I look at chapter D page 4
Edit..the owners manual say new oil every 5000km and new filter every 15000km, or once a year.
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I you look at your owners manual, I think you'll find the recommended change interval for the oil filter is NOT at every oil change.
So, if you only change it every second or third oil change, is the oil filter in the pan really that big a deal ???
Exactly. On my `81 CX100 you change the dino oil every 3K miles and the filter every 9K miles. On my `04 750 Breva I change the dino oil 3K miles and the filter every 6K miles.
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That is why Norge is known to have a starting issue, lawyers want the key switch to break the circuit.
At the risk of sounding as if I am an overly sensitive lawyer ... and I'm not ... I suspect there is truth to that in many U.S. corporations. That said, despite globalization and our own arrogance in exporting overseas via the ABA and government agencies of the perfection of our legal system approach to things :rolleyes: :shocked:, I very much doubt that is the case with our Norges.
Italy has lots of lawyers and a sophisticated criminal and civil legal system. It has, however, been my observation that its corporations, while sensitive to compliance issues, are nowhere near as gangrenously reactive to potential litigation as those here.
Now, backing up a bit to the OP's point, such plaints about the "hidden" oil filter, if voiced 10-20-or more years ago would, I think, have resulted in several responses about the original primary purchaser of Guzzis: the Italian government for military and police use.
In such cases, we were told -- and as a retired U.S. Army guy who also worked with the Italian army for three years back in the day, I have no trouble accepting as believable -- that the goal was to make it hard for Private Piero and Corporal Luigi to mess with it. :wink:
Apocryphal? Mebbe. But, as the task is one in my easy if clumsy reach, I kinda like the whole idea. :laugh:
Bill
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Are there any other engines, bike ,car or truck that had/have a disposable oil filter that's a regular maintenance item, inside the oil pan like Moto Guzzi?
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Are there any other engines, bike ,car or truck that had/have a disposable oil filter that's a regular maintenance item, inside the oil pan like Moto Guzzi?
Meaning not a cartridge insert but a full self-contained spin-on filter? Not that I can recall, though it wouldn't surprise me to find another oddball out there somewhere.
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:rolleyes:
Must be a different shop manual.??
I look at chapter D page 4
Try chapter B page 4
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Meaning not a cartridge insert but a full self-contained spin-on filter? Not that I can recall, though it wouldn't surprise me to find another oddball out there somewhere.
What about a cartridge insert? My 81 Honda XL single 250 needs the side cover removed to clean a flat screen filer...I really can't think of an American car that required oil pan removal for routine oil filter maintenance... Sludge traps in crankshaft are serviced during engine rebuilds...not on regular oil changes..
The oil filter in the Guzzi pan is not really a big deal...but I bet quite a few owners won't mess with it?
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Are there any other engines, bike ,car or truck that had/have a disposable oil filter that's a regular maintenance item, inside the oil pan like Moto Guzzi?
BMW K Bikes, three bolts, remove cover, spin off oil filter. Reverse for new filter. Similar to my V11 sport. No Big Deal Really.
Paul B :boozing:
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What about a cartridge insert? My 81 Honda XL single 250 needs the side cover removed to clean a flat screen filer...I really can't think of an American car that required oil pan removal for routine oil filter maintenance... Sludge traps in crankshaft are serviced during engine rebuilds...not on regular oil changes..
The oil filter in the Guzzi pan is not really a big deal...but I bet quite a few owners won't mess with it?
There are tons of bikes with cartridge inserts (and cars).
And there are a number with sludge traps or pre-filter screens, but they either have easy access (our Monster has one under a plug) or they're not really maintenance items (only cleaned if disassembled for service).
Then again there are a number of off-road/race bikes where the "normal" maintenance includes things like "replace piston every 12 races" or things like that.
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My pet peeve is the Breva 750 gearbox oil drain plug requires disassembly of the exhaust for removal. Its not all that hard but why not put a detent in the crossover for plug removal or design the headers an inch longer to move the crossover back to allow the plug to be removed. Common sense!!!
Cheers, Tim
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button heads.
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My pet peeve is the Breva 750 gearbox oil drain plug requires disassembly of the exhaust for removal. Its not all that hard but why not put a detent in the crossover for plug removal or design the headers an inch longer to move the crossover back to allow the plug to be removed. Common sense!!!
Cheers, Tim
BS, you just need finger/thumb small enough to do it like I do. :tongue: It's tight but doable for me and I weigh over 200#.
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My pet peeve is the Breva 750 gearbox oil drain plug requires disassembly of the exhaust for removal. Its not all that hard but why not put a detent in the crossover for plug removal or design the headers an inch longer to move the crossover back to allow the plug to be removed. Common sense!!!
Cheers, Tim
I'm with Wayne on this - my tool for the job on my 750 Breva was a ratcheting box wrench, preferably with a flex head. Worked like a charm, though I had to remember to wipe things off afterward to prevent that awful burning smell!
Come to think of it, I use the same approach on the Norge even though there's (a bit) more room to work.
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For years I used cardboard and rags, but I finally bought a plastic oil filter drain funnel made for Harleys and I don't get A DROP on the motor.
Kev, For my next HD oil change, my friend has one of those funnels. I will try it. He says it still left a bit of a mess. i will try it anyways.
BMW R75/5 filter was a cartridge inside the engine. Undo 3 bolts in a tight place to remove a cover. Pull out the cartridge and install a new one, gasket, cover and the bolts. On the original filter, you also had to replace a O ring on each end of the filter. To get the inner one, you had to use a hooked tool like a coat hanger to get it out. And if you forgot to install it, you were in for a no oil pressure seizure.
Tom
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My pet peeve is the Breva 750 gearbox oil drain plug requires disassembly of the exhaust for removal. Its not all that hard but why not put a detent in the crossover for plug removal or design the headers an inch longer to move the crossover back to allow the plug to be removed. Common sense!!!
Cheers, Tim
I found that the canister is not central on the pipes, and if I rotated so that the canister is furthest away from the plug there is just enough room to get it out.
As far as the cush drive goes, I (now) use Kev's method. :rolleyes: A previous member on the site was known to have glued his in to the wheel.
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There are tons of bikes with cartridge inserts (and cars).
And there are a number with sludge traps or pre-filter screens, but they either have easy access (our Monster has one under a plug) or they're not really maintenance items (only cleaned if disassembled for service).
Then again there are a number of off-road/race bikes where the "normal" maintenance includes things like "replace piston every 12 races" or things like that.
Ok, I meant cartridge filter that requires the oil pan or side cover removal for servicing....Someth ing besides a three bolt cover removal like the BMW mentioned...
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Ok, I meant cartridge filter that requires the oil pan or side cover removal for servicing....Someth ing besides a three bolt cover removal like the BMW mentioned...
Well like I was saying MOST of them are designed for easy access if they're considered a regular maintenance item.
Many 4-stroke motocross/dirtbikes have a filter screen or sludge trap (in addition to a cartridge oil filter found under a small removable cover), that requires removal of a sidecover or partial engine disassembly, but that is not considered periodic maintenance.
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BS, you just need finger/thumb small enough to do it like I do. :tongue: It's tight but doable for me and I weigh over 200#.
Some are lucky enough to have just enough clearance, I can get a wrench in there, get the plug about 2/3 way out and I'm against the crossover. Too me that's a poor design.
Cheers, Tim
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I'll start with having the oil filter in the oil pan, I ve heard the arguments that it makes you take a closer look at your engine when you change oil but still it's an extra hassle that didn't have to be. Yes I know there are outsiders to remedy that but on my wife 04 Stone the extension of the pan caused serious problems going over a oversized speed bump. Outsider since removed.
Come to my house. I have a Honda that YOU can change the oil and filter in. At the same time, I will change the oil and filter in my EV.
At about 30 minutes into my ride, after I am done, I will be getting a phone call from you telling me you are finally done. But now everything is leaking and you need to tear it back apart.
The oil filter in the pan is a non-issue if you get the proper tools. But you can be sure that is some darn odd setups for oil changes on other machines too.
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Look, it's not the end of the world to have to drop the pan just to swap the oil filter. But by the same token, it's not the end of the world to make it so you don't have to drop the pan to change the filter. So don't do that. The user pays your mortgage, so make it user friendly. Seat, switches, pegs, bars all need to be where you expect to find them. This too. That goes for everything from putting the oil fill on the side opposite the kickstand, to a reachable gearbox oil drain plug to you name it. Get over yourself and make it user friendly. Three principles to consider:
1) Unless you have a damn good reason, don't re-invent the wheel
2) If you do re-invent the wheel, don't make it square, jackass.
3) Just because someone else did it stupid doesn't mean you should, either.
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Three principles to consider:
1) Unless you have a damn good reason, don't re-invent the wheel
2) If you do re-invent the wheel, don't make it square, jackass.
3) Just because someone else did it stupid doesn't mean you should, either.
Unfortunately, as far as #3 is concerned, in some cases 'stupid' has become an industry standard! :evil:
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Well, you can't accuse the designers at Guzzi of not heeding their feedback. Agostini & Mistral did a roaring trade in slim crossovers on the 2TB 750's until the 1TB incorporated it. The 1TB also re-designed the airbox to avoid the awkward air filter replacement and they put those rubber blocks on the clutch cable. The V7 II then re-sited the gearbox fill plug to be in a sensible place & provided clearer access to the clutch operating arm. They might be slow about it, but they do seem to be trying. And those of us with the earlier, unrefined models do manage to muddle along.
On the other hand, those bikes designed with ease of regular maintenance in mind, seem to attract a significant premium - the Vincent, for example, and the Carberry Enfield (a spin off Mazda/Subaru oil filter - cheap & easily available; hydraulic lifters - the rocker covers are hard to get at; indents in the crankcase casting to enable it to be split easily, & so on, then there was this bloke rumoured to have designed & built his own motorcycle with all bolts being the one size head - just think of that - you'd only need one spanner! This last one, though, I can't see happening in mass production anytime soon.
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. The 1TB also re-designed the airbox to avoid the awkward air filter replacement and they put those rubber blocks on the clutch cable. mass
Yeah, that airbox on the 2TB is an absolute bear. :rolleyes:
Don't know about rubber blocks. When I neede to replace the clutch cable I just attached the new one to the old one and pulled it through. <Shrug>
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The rubber blocks are there to keep the clutch cable from going in between the fins, catching & heating. Examined the one from the Breva (no blocks) & it looked just like the first cable on the V7C - the plastic coating bare where it catches the fins & the outer metal body polished. Still worked OK. But there were complaints about it in the early days.
Mal
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Just tp get back to the rear cush drive rubbers. I haven't tried it but it would seem to me to use double side sticky tape (the stuff available at stationers) to keep the final drive rubber blocks in place while re-mounting the rear wheel. the tape would degrade in no time after use of the motorcycle.
Just a thought,
Cheers
Brian :grin:
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Kev, For my next HD oil change, my friend has one of those funnels. I will try it. He says it still left a bit of a mess. i will try it anyways.
Tom
I'm case it helps. Here's the break-in service on the new TC:
The shop rag is just backup.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170703/a495e0051af2c11e4c10c629e8cd5cdd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170703/3d1c88803994844ded660c9d622a14d2.jpg)
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Well that looks alot better than when I did it without the funnel and just stuffed the area with rags. I'll grab the one my friend has for next time.
Thanks Kev,
Tom