Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Psychopasta on June 28, 2017, 11:09:07 AM
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Hi,
I'm hoping to be starting up my V50 Monza engine in a few week's time. It will be the first time it's run since 2010, and the top end has been stripped and rebuilt with new rings.
I see things like https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10630-6PK-30WT-Break/dp/B008RWACQA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498665705&sr=8-2&keywords=break+in+oil and wonder if anyone has any experience of these oils and whether they add any value over regular oil. Plus, and advice for first-time starting after a rebuild is gratefully received!
- Pasta
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I would be more inclined to use an oil additive for brake in such as https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-Engine-Break-Additive/dp/B001DKN8ZU. Add it to your oil of choice in the proper viscosity range called for your engine and change it after 500 miles or so. I have rebuilt engines using only assembly lube and regular oil and never had any issues either.
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I use dedicated break in oil on my race bikes and other junk.There's many brands, not too expensive.....Moder n oils have complex additive packages, you have no idea the effect that pouring a bottle of additive into the oil will do to the oil.....
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What does the ring manufacturer say? Are they Deves rings? If they are nothing special.. chrome or some such thing.. I'd just use plain old Valvolene 20-50. For first startup, I put assembly lube on pushrod ends, rocker stuff, etc. and squirt oil liberally on the valve train. Run it a few hours and change it and the filter. No big deal, really.
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If you have flat LIFTERS(not tappets-you dont want tapping on the cam lobes) you want something with some zinc in it. A good break in additive is the best insurance lifters and cam dont gall.
GM dealers handle it or most part stores. New oils are not up to the task due to reduced zinc levels.
An oil thread!
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What does Guzzi put in their new bikes? That should answer the question, I think. If you run low before first service, they recommend topping off with their recommended oil for the life of the bike. I wonder if they just use their normal oil?
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Guzzi recommends a brand of oil because they get paid by the oil company.
Engine builders will use a break in oil that is chock full of zinc or use an additive.
A friend who has race cars and builds his own engines uses Rotella with tbe additive for break in then switches to a high quality real synthetic.
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Guzzi recommends a brand of oil because they get paid by the oil company.
Engine builders will use a break in oil that is chock full of zinc or use an additive.
A friend who has race cars and builds his own engines uses Rotella with tbe additive for break in then switches to a high quality real synthetic.
Perhaps that is true, I have not seen any evidence that Guzzi gets paid by oil companies. Maybe that is why they can sell their bikes so cheaply, LOL.
I do know that they warrant their motorcycles to be free from defect for 2 years and unlimited miles. That fact is well documented. As is their oil recommendation. Just saying.
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Amsoil offers their synthetics with and w/out Zinc, including gear oils. R3~
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Amsoil offers their synthetics with and w/out Zinc, including gear oils. R3~
The problem is the zinc level mandated by the EPA is too low for initial break in for flat lifters.
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The problem is the zinc level mandated by the EPA is too low for initial break in for flat lifters.
That makes sense. It's presumably why oil producers market break-in oils and additives, as they are not allowed for regular use, yes?
- Pasta
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I assemble all moving parts with Bell=Ray engine assembly lube and start it up with Rotella 20/50, run it for 15 minutes then change the oil. Seems to have worked OK for me.
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I put oil in it and start it. Seems to work but perhaps I'm stupid......
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I'm ignorant that way too. After that I wring the puppy snot out of it...
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I have not seen any evidence that Guzzi gets paid by oil companies.
You've seen the AGIP and ENI stickers, no ?
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That makes sense. It's presumably why oil producers market break-in oils and additives, as they are not allowed for regular use, yes?
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Mobil-1 V-Twin oil has a lot of Zinc in it. 1750 ppm.
Most of the automotive oils have about 750-900 ppm.
https://mobiloil.com/~/media/amer/us/pvl/files/pdfs/mobil-1-oil-product-specs-guide.pdf
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Plugs out, spin the motor on battery till the oil light goes out, maybe watch with valve covers off to see the oil feed, then CONTACT! Gentle throttle and head re torque, should be it.
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Plugs out, spin the motor on battery till the oil light goes out, maybe watch with valve covers off to see the oil feed, then CONTACT! Gentle throttle and head re torque, should be it.
Hey Chuck, that is exactly my plan :thumb:
BTW, someone not on this forum suggested a squirt of oil into the top of each cylinder, through the spark plug hole, to help lubricate the top of the rings prior to restart. I don't really like the sound of that...any views?
My first bike was an MZ 125 two stroke, and it took two-stroke oil which was added straight into the gas tank. The resulting 'petroil' mixture was used as fuel and lubricant. The bike was amazingly smoky when cold! The damn fascists at the EPA put an end to all that, of course, but back then people did it with four stroke engines too, especially those recently rebuilt (which all Triumph and Norton engines of the time were).
- Pasta
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I put oil in it and start it. Seems to work but perhaps I'm stupid......
:1: :bow:
Mark
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I put oil in it and start it. Seems to work but perhaps I'm stupid......
You're not stupid, Pete, it's the newbies that really have never done what you have done for decades that are ignorant. They conjure up reasons why if they don't do this a certain way they heard about what they do is going to be a failure. :rolleyes:
Who would be known by the name of Psychopasta if not a rabble rouser? Does anyone here really care what this guy thinks?
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My preference after many vintage and modern bike engine rebuilds, remains Valovline VR1 monograde oil. In the Puget Sound area 40 weight is appropriate for the ambient temps. This oil is readily available at most NAPA stores. After 600 miles, change to Valvoline Motorcycle oil, 20W40, recommended.
Ciao,
Dick Casey
Vashon Island
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You're not stupid, Pete, it's the newbies that really have never done what you have done for decades that are ignorant. They conjure up reasons why if they don't do this a certain way they heard about what they do is going to be a failure. :rolleyes:
Who would be known by the name of Psychopasta if not a rabble rouser? Does anyone here really care what this guy thinks?
I'd like him to have as much FUN on a guzzi as I have...
Sure, I do...just chatting wiyh some older guzzi friends, I never knew a big soapy hot water bath is a good thing for cylinders and Pistons before installation...soap y water? Who knew? I thought you just oil them...I'm just guessing and need all the help I can get from my friends...for a lot of us installing the big stuff is a Big Deal...maybe two or three times in my whole life, so I'm curious to make sure I don't fork it up...
Is this right?...
Does this go there?...
How do you...?
Should I...?
All in the line of maybe getting to do that once in my lifetime, what great fun...no, I'm not trained to be a full time mechanic, but I slept at a Holiday Inn...and can't find the interstate the next morning...
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You've seen the AGIP and ENI stickers, no ?
Triumph has Castrol ones, yeah it's an ad for their product, or a recommendation. Ford recommends Motorcraft, etc etc. Not sure that means Guzzi would advise product that would be to the detriment of their machines.......
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Thanks everyone for your replies. I am indeed a bit of a noob where rebuilding engines is concerned. :bow:
- Pasta