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General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: elvisboy77 on June 28, 2017, 02:45:31 PM
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Hey, looking for ideas on how to remove the rear wheel on my Eldo 1400. No center stand, so not an option. I tried parking the front wheel in a Baxter LA chock, and jacking the back up (swingarm) with a floor jack but it was too tippy to do. I was afraid to drop the bike.
I gave up for now, and am looking for the gurus here to give suggestions on how-to. I have been spoiled by having center stands in the past.
Thanks!
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When I take off the rear wheel of my H2, I put it on the side stand and jack under the right side of the frame about where the center stand pivot would be if it had a center stand. It's then supported by the front wheel, side stand and jack, in a triangle, and is plenty stable for wheel removal.
Obviously your motorcycle is different from my H2, but I'd think the same principle would apply.
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It's not easy, and I've stuffed it up a couple of times, and scratched the wheel paint. But now I think I have it sorted.
For safety, I always use a front wheel stand which is hard against a wall. Place the motorcycle in the stand, and then run strops from the handlebars to secure mounting points on the wall. Now the bike is not going to topple.
Use a stand under the frame, locate near the rear so that the bike is easy to lift. I use a bike lift similar to this one.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/dbzMTQ/motorcycle_scissor_stand.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dbzMTQ)
It has movable bars that sit under the frame making it more stable.
Raise the rear so the wheel is clear of the ground. Remove the axle, you may have to remove the mufflers first to get access to the nut and axle end.
Then remove the spacer between the rear brake bracket and the wheel, and tie the rear brake bracket above the swinging arm clear of the wheel. You may need to unbolt the LH shock absorber to achieve this to allow the brake bracket to slip through, but replace it before proceeding further.
Replace the axle, and then force the wheel away from the bevel box towards the space that the rear brake occupied. When it is clear, lower the wheel so it just touches the ground, and remove the axle. The last procedure is important, as that wheel is helluva heavy, and there's no way to support it in the confined space.
With the axle removed, raise the rear of the bike again, making sure the wheel stays on the ground and doesn't impede anything. Lift the rear high enough so that the wheel can simply be rolled out.
Refitting is a reversal of the above.
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Thanks so much for the advice!! Both great ideas.
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Tie a rope to the front wheel and hoist it high enough to get the rear wheel off the ground. Undo all the nuts and pull the Axel. fix the wheel and put it back on. lower carefully to get the bike on two wheels and a side stand.
Good to go. A block and tackle can do many things.
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Tie a rope to the front wheel and hoist it high enough to get the rear wheel off the ground. Undo all the nuts and pull the Axel. fix the wheel and put it back on. lower carefully to get the bike on two wheels and a side stand.
Good to go. A block and tackle can do many things.
The bike's going to be vertical for an extended amount of time, especially if he is intending to replace the rear tyre. I would be concerned about losing fluids, perhaps even bending the forks slightly.
Or am I just oversensitive?
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The fork tubes had better not bend in a situation like that, since they experience approximately the same magnitude force in the opposite direction when the front brakes are applied enough to make the tire skid.
But I suspect SJ may have had his tongue in proximity with his cheek.
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I had a condor wheel chock (sturdy aluminum) that I bolted to a 2x4. I put eyelets in the ends of the 2x4, and ran tie downs to the handlebars. With this, no chance of tipping. Then I jacked up the back (put jack under the bike in front of the swingarm) until I could get the wheel out.
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It is easier and quicker to unbolt the lower shock mounts and drop the wheel down than it is to take off the mufflers to get the axle out.
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It's not easy, and I've stuffed it up a couple of times, and scratched the wheel paint. But now I think I have it sorted.
For safety, I always use a front wheel stand which is hard against a wall. Place the motorcycle in the stand, and then run strops from the handlebars to secure mounting points on the wall. Now the bike is not going to topple.
Use a stand under the frame, locate near the rear so that the bike is easy to lift. I use a bike lift similar to this one.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/dbzMTQ/motorcycle_scissor_stand.jpg) (http://ibb.co/dbzMTQ)
It has movable bars that sit under the frame making it more stable.
Raise the rear so the wheel is clear of the ground. Remove the axle, you may have to remove the mufflers first to get access to the nut and axle end.
Then remove the spacer between the rear brake bracket and the wheel, and tie the rear brake bracket above the swinging arm clear of the wheel. You may need to unbolt the LH shock absorber to achieve this to allow the brake bracket to slip through, but replace it before proceeding further.
Replace the axle, and then force the wheel away from the bevel box towards the space that the rear brake occupied. When it is clear, lower the wheel so it just touches the ground, and remove the axle. The last procedure is important, as that wheel is helluva heavy, and there's no way to support it in the confined space.
With the axle removed, raise the rear of the bike again, making sure the wheel stays on the ground and doesn't impede anything. Lift the rear high enough so that the wheel can simply be rolled out.
Refitting is a reversal of the above.
Old thread but I thought I would add to it. I am in the process of getting a new tire installed. I took everything apart but could not get the wheel out, just didn't seem to be enough clearance. Of course it is heavy as hell. I have the bike on a frame lift and struggled with trying to get it out between the calipers mounting lug and the coupling disc. I finally got smart after scratching the rim, I put my hydraulic car jack under the wheel and rolled it out lowering it as I went. Now off to indy for him to mount the tire on his tire machine so the rim wouldn't get scratched. Oh well, and the gouge it's right on the Moto Guzzi logo of course. :angry: Avons are out of stock so I am going to try a Bridgestone. My indy told me he is having trouble getting tires and Yuasa batteries are gone until December, only going to commercial customers. Also petroleum products are getting hard for him to get. So if you are going to need something soon better get it now. I thought I had enough tire for Broken Arrow but on further inspection, not.
kk
kk
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I use a Harbor Freight ATV lift I got for $90. It has 2 spacers or risers that are removable. I remove the front one and place it under the 1400. The raised riser sits near the rear pivot and the front sits flat on the frame near the kickstand. Both the riser and the jack have thick rubber pads. It will lift the bike pretty much level. Its very stable too.
I then remove top shock bolts and use a floor jack on the final drive. You can lower the rear wheel till the axle clears the exhaust. Then remove the axle and drop out the rear tire. On my Touring, I do have to remove my hard bags. Its about a 30 minute job.
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I put my front wheel in a chock, a lift under the motor and a cherry picker (take the seat off and run a substantial rope around the frame both sides) and lifted up the rear wheel. Worked great and very steady.
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I got my wheel back. Put it on the car jack rolled it under the bike, lifted it up and pushed it back on the splined shaft. When I first took it apart the drive plate stayed on the shaft limiting the amount of clearance for the wheel to come out. All good now, just gotta go put the rest of it back together.
kk
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Get a Sears/Harbor Freight type motorcycle lift. Don't mess around. Your Eldo is heavy enough that you want stability when lifted off the ground. That stability will give you peace of mind when working on your bike. Let the hydraulics do the work for you.
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That is what I have, different brand. I use the car jack to lift the wheel. It is heavy, 200x60x 16 with a cast wheel. I have been working on motorcycles for over 50 yearsso I kind of know what I am doing.
kk