Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Gusable on August 29, 2017, 10:24:25 PM
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I'm sorry to beat the dead horse I'm sure.. at least it's not a oil question!! lol. Stock EV lights really don't look that good for night riding. I really like the twin lights hepco n Becker aux light kit but it's awefully strong! $$$.$$. Keep the halogen h4? Silverstar? Is there a led h4 ending up fitting? I'm all in on fabricating a light bar for some chrome eBay 35w aux jobbers! Thank you
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This is what I did to install a set of lights. http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=89088.0
The lights I used are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5-CHROME-METAL-HOUSING-55-WATT-HALOGEN-DRIVING-SPOT-LIGHTS-TRUCK-CAR-SUV-HN/331471389890?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
I can look up the mounts if needed.
They work well. There are probably better choices as far as LED or the like.
Hope this helps,
Tom
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I've tried a number of "upgrades" to the big EV headlight. It doesn't accept standard 7" modules like a Trucklite or those Daymakers, And I've been generally unable to control scatter from the 8" EV like I can with the 7" H4 types. I think the best alternative is to keep a mediocre main light and get some good aux lights. I think the LED is harshly blue for my night vision, so I'm using 2.5" HID @ about 3500k. I have a 55w pair on the trike (described by some as "unnaturally" bright), and a 35w pair on the Convert (bleaches out the main beam's 7" Truklite LED). All of my aux HID are in proper projectors and have hi/lo function, so while they have their own on/off switches, they are wired through the headlight dimmer. That allows me to politely use them in traffic and still own the night.
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One of the best things you can do for your stock lighting is to use the low beam wire to trigger a relay that will activate a new feed direct from the battery. I recall someone chasing an over charging gremlin here a while back and also discovered the circuit is where the voltage regulator reads from. Getting a clean feed up there made the headlight brighter and brought the charging under control.
If I were going to do that, I would just run a couple wires back to a location on the frame from the headlight bucket for a relay location. (Probably under a side cover to protect from weather somewhat.) Power and ground from the battery, solder some spade ends on and plug it all together. Nothing you cannot completely restore to original as no wiring would be cut to do this.
If you decide to add aux lighting, you will want to keep the bulbs at 30 watts if you use incandescent, AND I would suggest adding a volt meter to keep track of things. A lot of the aux lights were closer to 55 watts. With those going up front, you will gradually deplete the battery of juice. Also note worthy is the use of a pair of 30 watt bulbs and heated gear if you are so inclined. This makes the volt meter a must! You can run both as long as you manage the power, but running everything at full blast will still drain the battery.
OK, well probably more than you asked for, but food for thought. The direct feed and relay will brighten up the headlight considerably.
John Henry
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Excellent info thank you!!!
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I have a lightly used H-B Twinlight set for Californias that I can part with. PM me if you are interested...I only used them once and decided to go back to the stock setup for my Vintage. They do include 55w bulbs; which put the electrical system in charge-debt if run at lowish rpms. I use the PIAA 35w H3 bulbs, instead. Just as bright, but a lighter load...
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I like to add a main fuse to the red wire from battery to ignition switch then you can use it to power the 30 terminal of a pair of relays mounted in the headlight bucket. Make a little clamp to mount a pair of relays and connect the light socket one to each relay 87 with a spade lug.
Use the original dimmer switch wires to 85 of the relay coils with a ground to 86 terminals.
Don't forget the high beam light.
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I fitted a Wipac Crystal on my 95 Cali and it transformed the head light.
You can get right or left dip plus with side lights or not
Often used as an upgrade on LR Defenders and the like
Similar to this:- https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_itemId=282487746434&_nkw=Land+Rover+Wipac+LHD+Wipac+Crystal+Halogen+7+Sealed+Beam+Conversion+Headlights&_trksid=p2047675.m4099.l9146
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I'm running a 100/90 H4 headlight with relays wired and placed in bucket. I also have a pair of aux-lights but very seldom do I use them. I wish my 1100 Breva had such good light as my EV!
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gzJ5NQ/1017490_624322507579954_1440872560_n.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gzJ5NQ)
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I'm running a 100/90 H4 headlight with relays wired and placed in bucket. I also have a pair of aux-lights but very seldom do I use them. I wish my 1100 Breva had such good light as my EV!
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gzJ5NQ/1017490_624322507579954_1440872560_n.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gzJ5NQ)
Just a heads-up: If you go to a high output headlight bulb, be sure to check on the the bulb socket. Most of them are just plastic and don't hold up well to the extreme heat those bulbs throw off. NAPA has a nice replacement (bakelite, I believe) that will provide a pre-emptive repair or replace a melted OEM piece.
You can probably guess how I know this :wink:
Best,
Carlo
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I am the person Zoom Zoom referenced in his reply. My headlight is twice as bright as before with the added benefit of proper voltage regulation. I just stuffed the added relay into the headlight bucket. Didn't even fasten it to anything. Best thing is it only cost six bucks.
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Sheepdog pm heading your way. Tris thank you for the wipac. Very interesting. The high output h4 bulb in stock housing with relay is very interesting! Options options!!
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zoomzoom has the answer.
If you lack the skills you can buy a kit from Eastern Beaver about $60. I can hear the red suspenders snapping all ready. If you don't have the skills or time, you have to buy.
http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Wiring_Kits/H4_Kits/h4_kits.html
Another choice is/was Digi Sync. It is a small 1-2 man operation. The site shows it out of stock. The products are top shelf. The relays are small and the new headlight sockets are ceramic.
http://thedigisync.com/
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Yes..I forgot to mention I also replaced the headlight socket as well. I also did the same mod to my '86 Lemans
Just a heads-up: If you go to a high output headlight bulb, be sure to check on the the bulb socket. Most of them are just plastic and don't hold up well to the extreme heat those bulbs throw off. NAPA has a nice replacement (bakelite, I believe) that will provide a pre-emptive repair or replace a melted OEM piece.
You can probably guess how I know this :wink:
Best,
Carlo
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Are there any plug n play LED H4 replacements that fit in a Guzzi headlight bucket?
I could use one/ea for: EV and V11 Sport.
BTW- I replaced 100/90 wt H4 on Bandit with and an LED. It's just as bright and doesn't put so much heat. After 60k+ miles running high watts, the lens was getting a little brown.
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Would this work on my '02 EV?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elite-LED-Headlight-Conversion-Kit-6000K-Bulbs-8000LM-H4-H7-H11-H13-9007-9006/162016496792?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=461130883702&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
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I installed this one https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/motorcycle-led-bulbs/motorcycle-led-headlight-conversion-kit-h4-led-headlight-bulb-conversion-kit-with-compact-heat-sink/3930/8566/ on my '03
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Nick tell us about that bulb. Good clearance in the bucket? How's the light cut off?
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Nick tell us about that bulb. Good clearance in the bucket? How's the light cut off?
It fits...barely! It's bright, but I also installed relays for it. As far as cut off, I feel it's acceptable.
It's on the lift now waiting for the trans. to come back so I could not try it even of I wanted to.
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Would this work on my '02 EV?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Elite-LED-Headlight-Conversion-Kit-6000K-Bulbs-8000LM-H4-H7-H11-H13-9007-9006/162016496792?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=461130883702&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649
Probably not without keyholing the back of the headlight bucket for the heat sink. Remember those bulbs get HOT They'll cook themselves without ventilation, so you'd need some type of airflow through the headlight bucket if you can't get the heat sink outside.