Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Kiwi_Roy on September 04, 2017, 04:33:15 PM
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I expect this is a 2 valve motor, anything to be aware of this model?
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I expect this is a 2 valve motor, anything to be aware of this model?
Yes, you'll get old trying to wear it out !
Imagine the oil pump could do with a check.
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Haven't heard of any Grisos with the oil pump problem but I'm not certain at which point the pump design changed, it was certainly late in the 2V 1100 production so it might post date 2007.
Other than that? Just make sure the throttle stop screw hasn't been mollested and replace the rocker cover gaskets with the Valpolini type. By now it could probably do with having its throttle bodies thoroughly cleaned, especially if the previous owner was one of those people who insist on keeping the oil level at he full mark on the dipstick. Unless done earlier the swingarm bearings and shock linkage bearings will probably be shot. That's basically it though.
Yes, they benefit from a map but the later 1100 maps were tollerable. Make sure it doesn't have an aftermarket air filter and go ride.
Pete
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My 1st Guzzi was a 2007 Griso I bought as a new leftover in 2011 for a song. I loved the power delivery of the 2 valve 1100 motor but it has fueling issues. Basically lots of pinging when you roll on the throttle. To correct the fueling issue was very expensive. Its also a gas hog. At 125 miles you better start looking for gas and by 140 miles you better be at a gas station. Fun bike but ultimately to big for a city bike and too limited fuel range to tour on.
Personally I'd not own a 4 valve Guzzi I'd buy another 2V Griso as a 4th or 5th string play bike if it was really priced to sell.
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My 1st Guzzi was a 2007 Griso I bought as a new leftover in 2011 for a song. I loved the power delivery of the 2 valve 1100 motor but it has fueling issues. Basically lots of pinging when you roll on the throttle. To correct the fueling issue was very expensive. Its also a gas hog. At 125 miles you better start looking for gas and by 140 miles you better be at a gas station. Fun bike but ultimately to big for a city bike and too limited fuel range to tour on.
Personally I'd not own a 4 valve Guzzi I'd buy another 2V Griso as a 4th or 5th string play bike if it was really priced to sell.
Sounds to me like someone played about with the throttle stop screw r otherwise buggered about with stuff they didn't understand. Detonation and high fuel consumption were never an issue on my 1100 or any of the others I've dealt with. 22-25km/l in everyday riding. Yours didn't have a silly air filter and open pipes did it? I hope the end sollution dibnt involve a power commander and drowning it in fuel! That's the usual way of solving the problem if you don't know what you're doing!
Pete
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Sounds to me like someone played about with the throttle stop screw r otherwise buggered about with stuff they didn't understand. Detonation and high fuel consumption were never an issue on my 1100 or any of the others I've dealt with. 22-25km/l in everyday riding. Yours didn't have a silly air filter and open pipes did it? I hope the end sollution dibnt involve a power commander and drowning it in fuel! That's the usual way of solving the problem if you don't know what you're doing!
Pete
The bike acted equally the same with a Termignoni or the stock caution cone and stock air filter. IDK who or why someone would have messed with the throttle stop screw as the bike was new albeit setting around for 4-1/2 years on a showroom floor before I bought it.
The solution for me wasn't a Power Commander, it was selling the bike and buying something different. I wasn't investing in a PC5, O2 modulator and custom map from Guzzi Tech for $1,100 to correct the fueling.
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All of the above, plus cracking of the exhaust junctions under the engine. Fuel hose popping off in the fuel tank and water in the dash assembly. A very good solid bike when sorted.
Cheers, voncrump
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The bike acted equally the same with a Termignoni or the stock caution cone and stock air filter. IDK who or why someone would have messed with the throttle stop screw as the bike was new albeit setting around for 4-1/2 years on a showroom floor before I bought it.
The solution for me wasn't a Power Commander, it was selling the bike and buying something different. I wasn't investing in a PC5, O2 modulator and custom map from Guzzi Tech for $1,100 to correct the fueling.
Well yes, it was unfortunate you were gulled.
pete
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You most likely already know this but it has a sport bike riding position. I found the high pegs and low bars put a bit too much weight on my wrist and shoulders. Other than that it was a great running, fun bike. :thumb:
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I had a 2007purchased from MI in Seattle. It always ran perfectly, no fueling issue at all, no popping, and got about 45 mpg. Never had a single issue with it in around 15,000 miles, but the leg position was a bit too cramped for me. A fine bike.
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I have had a 2007 for about 5 years. I bought it with 1900 miles on it. It currently has about 16000 miles. I love it. I put a ballabio fairing, Mana bars, heated grips, Corbin seat, 1" lower pegs and some Onur bar risers on it. I put a startus interuptus update and a Beetle map on it a few years back. It handles and stops great. I have had a couple sets of Michelin Pilot Road tires on it, but just put on a set of the new Dunlop Roadsmart 3 s. They are even better. I have taken it on a few 1000 to 1500 mile round trips and it was great.
I have had problems with it intermittently idling too high and went through the whole tb cleaning, tps reset routine a couple of times. That seems to be heat related. It has been behaving itself this year even when it was over 100 out. The exhaust did crack in the midsection pipe, but a local welder put it back together and gusseted it for $20. The carc clunking can be annoying in urban traffic, but I don't do too much of that living in an unpopulated place.
When I got it, I was hot to get a Tenni green 4 valve model. The insurance on the 4 valve is almost 3 times as much as the 2 valve and it would have had the flat tappet issue. A friend in town has a 4 valve Griso with roller tappets, and it is waaaay faster when you want to accelerate hard. The 2 valve still moves right along, though, and is plenty fast for me. It gets about 45 mpg on the road at 75 to 80 mph. The 4 valve gas mileage is a lot worse.
I also have a v11 Lemans. I love the brutal, old school feeling and the fairing of the v11.The Griso is more comfortable and handles better, even with the long wheelbase. Compared to the v11 it is almost civilized.
All in all, the 2 valve Griso is a great bike and currently there are some real bargains out there. If it has been well maintained, I don't think you can go wrong.
Simon Abeid
Kettle Falls, WA
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My experience mirrors AlanP's, over 26,000 miles.
I like the slightly tucked leg position, but overall this not a pure sport bike configuration -- the bars are higher and wider. Comfortable for 5'11" me, with short inseam.
One owner had the clutch slave cylinder mounting screws back out (somewhat expensive) and concluded that the factory installed screws with the wrong head design.
The kickstand pivot bolt nut can loosen up.
I put a conformal coating on my dash PCB to prevent moisture damage, but this not as big a problem as on the Breva.
It's quite a bike, and quite reliable. Let a test ride guide your decision.
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Yes, you'll get old trying to wear it out !
Imagine the oil pump could do with a check.
He's old already Huzo
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He's old already Huzo
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I hope to die before mine does. Same with my Toyota Hilux.
I haven't seen a 2 VPC Griso in the flesh.
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I recently bought a 2007 1100 Griso and have had no regrets. Lower pegs for me make a noticeable difference. The fueling is pretty good from standard but removing the air filter snorkel and switching off the lamdba sensor makes it even better without effecting the 45mpg fuel consumption.
If I had room in the garage I would buy another as a spare, they are that good.
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I recently bought a 2007 1100 Griso and have had no regrets. Lower pegs for me make a noticeable difference. The fueling is pretty good from standard but removing the air filter snorkel and switching off the lamdba sensor makes it even better without effecting the 45mpg fuel consumption.
If I had room in the garage I would buy another as a spare, they are that good.
RED! Perchance???
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Well yes, it was unfortunate you were gulled.
pete
Having no idea what "gulled" means I have no idea if I was or not. In any event I do not regret buying or selling the Griso. It was my introduction to the Moto Guzzi which lead me to buy 10 others. I still have a V7R and an 850T. I want to sell both as I am stepping away from the brand for a while. I am not dissatisfied with brand they just aren't making or have made anything that suits my current riding needs, wants and desires.
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RED! Perchance???
No black. Why do you ask?
Bit rusty on Ozzie slang but 'gulled' here in Blighty means shat on.
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No black. Why do you ask?
Bit rusty on Ozzie slang but 'gulled' here in Blighty means shat on.
I wanted an image to take to bed...
Red is beautiful, but once you've had black, you never, ummm....(something) :thumb:
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Things to be aware of:
Service Note# 002-2007: fuel pump hose replacement. These should have been taken care of via recall, I think the dealer can look up your VIN.
Technical Note# 011-2006: Noisy gearbox at idle. From frame no. ZGULS00096M112690 to no. ZGULS00096M113440
Mine had this, never bothered me, never fixed it.
I had Knight Design work on a set of 1" lowering foot pegs back in 2010. They sell these and help quite a bit with leg room.
My bike had an early Mistral can with no DB killer. GuzziDiag reader/writer allowed me to remove fuel at zero throttle position from 2k and up RPM to eliminate overrun popping. The other fueling seemed OK and it runs great.
Make sure the suspension is adjusted correctly...factory usually had the compression damping cranked WAY in which would feel much more punishing than it should be. Adjust properly and you can have a great handling bike.
I lowered the bike in the trees to the lowest mark which helped handling to my liking. This is described in the workshop manual as 'racing' or something like that.
Great bike, ride with no worries.
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Having no idea what "gulled" means I have no idea if I was or not.
"Gull" is in your dictionary, assuming you have one.
gull 2 |gəl|
verb [ with obj. ]
fool or deceive (someone): workers had been gulled into inflicting poverty and deprivation upon themselves.
noun
a person who is fooled or deceived.
ORIGIN late 16th cent.: of unknown origin.
(American Heritage Dictionary)
Moto
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Thanks for all the response, one listed on the local CL, a black one
Problem is I would have to thin the herd out a bit to make room for it.
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Thanks for all the response, one listed on the local CL, a black one
Problem is I would have to thin the herd out a bit to make room for it.
Just do it Roy it's been a while since you bought one.
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I had a 2007. Here's my experience in no particular order:
As mentioned by Moto, the Grimeca clutch slave housing is machined for flat head screw. Luigi installed flange heads. They back out, you lose all the fluid, and the clutch rod seizes in the case. Royal pain to tear everything apart. If you are really unlucky, the rod can mess up the trans case. This is not unique to me. MPH has seen the same thing.
Swing arm bearings and drive shaft splines are dry. Rear suspension linkage needle bearings have barely sny grease. You would be wise to disassemble and lube all.
Bolt for kickstand fell out. You heard me. Almost lost the bike.
Snatchy, unpredictable throttle. NOT the cable adjustment (which would not hold position, even with loctite).
Have to replace the fuel filter in the tank. The tank will swell from ethanol and get stuck in the frame. The "quick disconnect" fuel line fitting is a POS and should be replaced.
I forget the rest. Sexy bike with nice suspension and a ridiculous riding position. The QC problems are inexcusable. I kept it a short time and never regretted selling it.
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I had a 2007. Here's my experience in no particular order:
As mentioned by Moto, the Grimeca clutch slave housing is machined for flat head screw. Luigi installed flange heads. They back out, you lose all the fluid, and the clutch rod seizes in the case. Royal pain to tear everything apart. If you are really unlucky, the rod can mess up the trans case. This is not unique to me. MPH has seen the same thing.
Swing arm bearings and drive shaft splines are dry. Rear suspension linkage needle bearings have barely sny grease. You would be wise to disassemble and lube all.
Bolt for kickstand fell out. You heard me. Almost lost the bike.
Snatchy, unpredictable throttle. NOT the cable adjustment (which would not hold position, even with loctite).
Have to replace the fuel filter in the tank. The tank will swell from ethanol and get stuck in the frame. The "quick disconnect" fuel line fitting is a POS and should be replaced.
I forget the rest. Sexy bike with nice suspension and a ridiculous riding position. The QC problems are inexcusable. I kept it a short time and never regretted selling it.
Pete will be along shortly to state his Griso never had any of these problems so they don't exist. IT seems you and I and many other Griso owners have been "gulled" on.
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Nope, all bikes have some issues. I'd forgotten about the slave cylinder bolt issue that affected a few bikes in a comparatively short run.
As for being gulled? If you'd seen and understood the 'Sollution' you were sold for that absurd price I think you'd be pissed off too.
Pete
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Pete will be along shortly to state his Griso never had any of these problems so they don't exist. IT seems you and I and many other Griso owners have been "gulled" on.
The problems don't exist once you've gotten off your ass and done something about them...
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Look, this doesn't need to turn into a pissing contest.
The Griso isn't for everybody, that's fine, but overall the CARC bikes, as long as they are tuned properly and their little idiocyncracies addressed are generally very, very reliable. The biggest issue with any of them if you exclude the 8V flat tappet fiasco is the swingarm bearings and shock linkages being short on grease.
Issues with fueling on the 1100's were comparatively minor as long as they were/are tuned properly and the throttle bodies haven't been buggered about with. Nowadays remapping is an open book but back in the day very expensive solutions that were, quite frankly, very poor were the order of the day. I too was gulled, I'm not proud or happy about it and just wish to save others from going down a fruitless and expensive path that may damage their engines, wastes fuel and increases pollution.
Thing is if you don't try one you'll never know. At the moment the CARC bikes remain the acme of true motorcycle *Development* from Guzzi. Their axing and replacement with a series of 'Cruisers' and the Smallblock line may make financial sense at the moment but it drives a stake into the heart of Guzzi's reputation for inovation and punching above their weight.
I'm always sorry to hear that people have has bad experiences but there is almost always a back-story that isn't known or never gets told. All I can suggest to the OP is try it. If he doesn't bond with it he can flip it. Remember as well that I see a LOT of CARC bikes, they are my main stock and trade. Most people will of only experienced one, their own, so their observations may not have such a catholic base as mine.
Pete
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The problems don't exist once you've gotten off your ass and done something about them...
So you'd have been willing to get off your ass and spend another $1,000+ to correct a factory issue on a new bike? Before you go into a diatribe about how inexpensively the fueling can now be corrected, during the time frame I owned my Griso to the best of my knowledge Todd Egan was the only one who had a fix and that fix was over $1,000.
Pete,
There is no back story with my 2007 Griso. I bought it new as a dealer leftover in 2011. I didn't mind the ergo's, I loved the look, I liked the handling, I like the power. I liked the power delivery. I disliked like the fueling and range. I wasn't willing to spend almost 1/15 of the cost of the bike to correct the fueling and even then the fuel range was still limited. The two dislikes outweighed the likes so I rode the bike around for a while and then sold it for something different.
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So you'd have been willing to get off your ass and spend another $1,000+ to correct a factory issue on a new bike? Before you go into a diatribe about how inexpensively the fueling can now be corrected, during the time frame I owned my Griso to the best of my knowledge Todd Egan was the only one who had a fix and that fix was over $1,000.
Pete,
There is no back story with my 2007 Griso. I bought it new as a dealer leftover in 2011. I didn't mind the ergo's, I loved the look, I liked the handling, I like the power. I liked the power delivery. I disliked like the fueling and range. I wasn't willing to spend almost 1/15 of the cost of the bike to correct the fueling and even then the fuel range was still limited. The two dislikes outweighed the likes so I rode the bike around for a while and then sold it for something different.
What you don't know is that yes, I fell for the power commander thing for that sort of money.
Threw the bastard in the bin (literally). Complete and total waste of money, but I stayed the course and got the perfect solution.
Anything else ?
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I've said it before and will again- one of the best things about owning a Guzzi is the technical support on this forum. It is unbelievable. No matter what happened to my bikes- i was able to get expert help here in sorting it out. Mr. Roper, despite the midget controversy, is a beacon of light.
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Mr. Roper, despite the midget controversy, is a beacon of light.
He ain't the Jolly Green Giant, but he's no midget! :tongue:
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What you don't know is that yes, I fell for the power commander thing for that sort of money.
Threw the bastard in the bin (literally). Complete and total waste of money, but I stayed the course and got the perfect solution.
Anything else ?
I too got "the perfect solution" for factory fueling issues and put it didn't cost me a dime. Actually it put $7,500 in my pocket. Anything else?
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Hey, look! A dancing poo!
(https://i11.servimg.com/u/f11/18/91/78/64/bb920b10.gif)
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I too got "the perfect solution" for factory fueling issues and put it didn't cost me a dime. Actually it put $7,500 in my pocket. Anything else?
Yeah one thing.
What was your solution ?
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He sold it. Look. That's cool. It didn't work for him. If we all wanted the same thing we'd be like Harley riders! ( That should kick something off! :D)
Pete
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Yeah one thing.
What was your solution ?
:shocked:
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He sold it. Look. That's cool. It didn't work for him. If we all wanted the same thing we'd be like Harley riders! ( That should kick something off! :D)
Pete
Paging Kev in 3-2-1...
:smiley:
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Sorry, don't know what you mean..
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What would be considered a good deal or price on a 1100 Grisso? Good to excellent condition and under 15K miles. Just curious. I would like to see one in my future.
I am always interested to read the Grisso threads to see the various issues and resolutions.
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One S in Griso godammit!
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What would be considered a good deal or price on a 1100 Grisso? Good to excellent condition and under 15K miles. Just curious. I would like to see one in my future.
I am always interested to read the Grisso threads to see the various issues and resolutions.
In my recent reviews of Craigslist and CycleTrader, I've seen the 1100s offered at about $5-8,000, and the 1200s running about $7-9,000 (asking prices for both, no telling what the sale actually was made at).
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One S in Griso godammit!
Wot :violent1:
https://vancouver.craigslist.ca/rds/mcy/d/2007-moto-guzzy-griso-1100/6287305180.html
At least I can spell Guzzi
I went and had a look this evening
Hasn't run for months and of course the battery was shagged
Even with a jump from my car all it would do was click
He didn't' know if the joints had been greased, the only thing in it's favour was last serviced by Valley Yamaha.
Outside under a cover since spring, some oxidation on the throttle bodies. What part of "Well Maintained is that?
I made what I thought was a fair offer for a bike not running, let him mull it over for a day
What's with the red hose?
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I went and had a look this evening
Hasn't run for months and of course the battery was shagged
Even with a jump from my car all it would do was click
He didn't' know if the joints had been greased, the only thing in it's favour was last serviced by Valley Yamaha.
Outside under a cover since spring, some oxidation on the throttle bodies. What part of "Well Maintained is that?
I made what I thought was a fair offer for a bike not running, let him mull it over for a day
What's with the red hose?
Maybe he really hates the breather leaving oil directly under the sump?
I like his generosity in noting that "SADDLES INCLUDED" - 'cause riding on that frame is real uncomfortable!
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In picture 3 the loom behind the RH throttle body (aft of the red hose) is almost white like bleached linen, is that normal?
Which port on the bike is the red hose connected to, he said it was added at the dealership.
The headlight never came on the whole time we tried to start it, is that normal?
(I think I read somewhere the light comes on only when the motor is running)
If he accepts my offer the first thing I will have to purchase is a new battery
The Yuasa site calls for YTX20CH-BS That is what's fitted
I thought it was strange that it didn't crank with the jumper cables but I guess it needs a good connection to a good battery, this one is absolutely done.
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In picture 3 the loom behind the RH throttle body (aft of the red hose) is almost white, is that normal?
Which port on the bike is the red hose connected to, he said it was added at the dealership.
Is this the correct battery for the bike, if he accepts my offer that's the first thing I will have to purchase.
Yuasa YTX20CH-05
I have no idea what the red hose is for? Perhaps it's a spare penis gourd in case his falls off! The white stuff is sheathing on part of the loom I believe and yes, all the early ones bleach. Whether it's just the sun or the dye washes out I don't know but it's normal and harmless.
With the battery, even if you don't get a Yuassa, make sure the number in the middle is 20, not 16. Both are externally identical but one is a 20AH and one a 16AH, won't be a problem in warm weather but once it gets cold it will encourage the Startus Interuptus problem and it won't hold a Cherie or last as long as a 20AH.
Make sure you READ and follow to the letter the instructions for puting the new battery into service. You can't just put the acid in, install it and ride. Well, you can, but it'll blow half the acid out all over your bike and warp it's plates for good measure!
Pete
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Make sure you READ and follow to the letter the instructions for puting the new battery into service. You can't just put the acid in, install it and ride. Well, you can, but it'll blow half the acid out all over your bike and warp it's plates for good measure!
Pete
Will you give me the guts on that please ?
It sounds important. I replaced my battery in Moi Rana (Norway), and I'll admit, that's exactly what I did. There's been no sign of the acid reflux thing yet (shitty arse luck I guess), but what's the tutorial on the plate warping thing Peter.
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Isn't one of the gel type batteries the way to go ?
No more messy acid spills with them - seems to work fine in my old cali at least.
Does the Greaso need more amps when it's cranking ?
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God's teeth! There are INSTRUCTIONS IN THE BOX, doesn't anybody read anything any more!
With an inactivated AGM battery you need to stick the acid in and then give it time, the instructions say an hour, I prefer overnight, to allow the acid to be fully absorbed by the plates. Then a swift charge at a fairly high rate and it's ready to be put into service.
If you don't allow the plates and mats to absorb the acid fully the charge from the alternator will cause the plates to warp and short internally creating excessive heat which will boil the acid and blurt it out everywhere.
Pete
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God's teeth! There are INSTRUCTIONS IN THE BOX, doesn't anybody read anything any more!
Real men don't read the instructions , you know that.
If I pick up a battery it will be the day before then a leisurely Train and ride
Thanks Pete
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What would be considered a good deal or price on a 1100 Grisso? Good to excellent condition and under 15K miles. Just curious. I would like to see one in my future.
I am always interested to read the Grisso threads to see the various issues and resolutions.
I just sold a 2007 red Gris(s)o with 12,XXX miles for just under $5k to my ex-girlfriends now husband who lives in the UK... 2V head models seem to go for $4k-$6k with most actual sales going at the mid-low end of that spectrum in the US. It was on CL for a few weeks without any hits, never tried to sell aggressively as he showed interest shortly after I put it up on my Facebook page.
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God's teeth! There are INSTRUCTIONS IN THE BOX, doesn't anybody read anything any more!
With an inactivated AGM battery you need to stick the acid in and then give it time, the instructions say an hour, I prefer overnight, to allow the acid to be fully absorbed by the plates. Then a swift charge at a fairly high rate and it's ready to be put into service.
If you don't allow the plates and mats to absorb the acid fully the charge from the alternator will cause the plates to warp and short internally creating excessive heat which will boil the acid and blurt it out everywhere.
Pete
Ummm. Thank you.
I was not in a position to do exactly that, but as it happens I didn't know though.
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So what's the guts on these new fangled AGM batteries then ?(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170908/06ca2daa1ed2a6864c5eb887e1b5891e.jpg)
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So what's the guts on these new fangled AGM batteries then ?
Like it says - 'no initial charging required'. That says nothing about proper prep and installation. Just like always, an AGM battery needs to have the acid put in it and to be sealed, and then LEFT ALONE FOR AN HOUR for best results. Once done, it will be a notable improvement over earlier types of batteries (particularly in areas such as sulphiting and vibration resistance) but it is still in essence an advanced form of the traditional lead-acid battery.
Use without this initial step may be successful, but will not allow the battery to achieve optimum life and capability.
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Like it says - 'no initial charging required'. That says nothing about proper prep and installation. Just like always, an AGM battery needs to have the acid put in it and to be sealed, and then LEFT ALONE FOR AN HOUR for best results. Once done, it will be a notable improvement over earlier types of batteries (particularly in areas such as sulphiting and vibration resistance) but it is still in essence an advanced form of the traditional lead-acid battery.
Use without this initial step may be successful, but will not allow the battery to achieve optimum life and capability.
Mm, I think mine had been set up already as I don't recall having to mess around with acid.
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Mm, I think mine had been set up already as I don't recall having to mess around with acid.
Normally, the shop that sells it cracks open the box, takes a very nicely prepared segmented plastic container with the acid mix in it and breaks the seals, pours it into the battery and then applies a permanent sealing strip across the top of the cells. They then should allow it to sit and do what Pete described and I referenced, and allow it to sit and both absorb into the glass mats and activate the plate chemistry. While the batter will function as soon as the acid is in place, it will have longer life and higher capacity is the time for this to occur is provided.
Unless you received a box that still had factory tape closing it and a fancy molded plastic segmented container with acid, the shop did this for you.
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Surprisingly little information on filling an AGM
https://www.atbatt.com/motorcycle-batteries/how-to-fill-and-charge-yuasa-ytx14-bs-motorcycle-battery
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Surprisingly little information on filling an AGM
https://www.atbatt.com/motorcycle-batteries/how-to-fill-and-charge-yuasa-ytx14-bs-motorcycle-battery
They don't make a distinction, but that procedure applies to all types of lead-acid batteries. AGM or not, that's how it's done...
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They don't make a distinction, but that procedure applies to all types of lead-acid batteries. AGM or not, that's how it's done...
Have a look at Motobatt.com you can specify the make , year and cc rating .
Mine is an MBTX12U and it specifies 12U on their site - gives all the specs etc. would be interesting to see how it compares to the Yuasa equivalent.
Mine was quite reasonably priced, no dearer than a conventional battery I don't think.
I like the idea of no acid spills with them.
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Kevin,
Your Motobatt is quite small, only 12 AH so it won't have much cranking time, Pete recommended a 20 AH for the Griso. I think the later bikes are more fussy about battery Voltage.
Luckily you have a nice steep driveway to get a bump start if you need it.
I helped an owner with one of those 4 terminal Motobatts, he accidentally put it in backwards it would crank over ok but no spark (Bosch starters don't care about the polarity) but he ECU has a Safety Diode that prevents it powering up if the polarity is wrong.
Your P8 ECU has the diode inside in series with the ECU relay coil,
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1996_Sport_1100i.gif Pin 4 to Negative if I remember, it's quite easy to blow those diodes, don't ask me how I know.
Later ECUs just have the diode outside
http://www.thisoldtractor.com/guzzi007/schematics/1998_EV.gif Item (51)
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I use the Motobatt MBTX16U on my Griso 1100. Its capacity is 19Ah.
Brian
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intermission .........and i love the fricking thing
(http://thumb.ibb.co/ha4b8a/GRISO_07.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ha4b8a)
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He ain't the Jolly Green Giant, but he's no midget! :tongue:
I was not referring to His Most Indefatigable's stature.
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I usxe the Motobatt MBTX16U on my Griso 1100. Its capacity is 19Ah.
Brian
Hi mate. Welcome to the forum.
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I expect this is a 2 valve motor, anything to be aware of this model?
I had a 2006 I bought used in 2013, rode for 4 years & put 9,000 miles on it. Essentially the same bike as the 2007. Had a Mistral pipe and a REXX ECU flash, that was it for the modifications. Only issue I had was the known problem with the speedometer sensor getting wet - easy fix. It was great for country riding. I'd usually get over 40 mpg, unless I absolutely flogged the hell out it. Then it may drop to 38-39 mpg. Was ok around town, but not the best I've owned for in-town riding. From everything I've read these last generation big block two valves are virtually indestructible.
Loved that bike. One of the very few I've owned over the last 40 years that I wish I still had.
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Mjptexas,
I hope mines as good.
The only thing I don't like is the look of that fugly exhaust, I will try to get used to it though.
I have a Mistral off my VII sport hanging up, same size motor, might be able to try it.
The speed sensor fails because the water wicks in where the soft cable contacts the hard epoxy, I see that happening with a lot of industrial probes, I will put a bead of silicone around there for sure,
Still have my 72 Eldorado for around town, it's a sweetheart.
I'm also following this 2007 Norge thread, I figure it's somewhat the same
http://wildguzzi.com/forum/index.php?topic=92290.0
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I had Guzzi Tech O2 optmizer on my B1100 for a while. It did quiet down the off throttle back fire I got after putting on a Mistral can. I was fine with it until I started reading Peppermint Pete's pros, where he would lash the poor little thing with all manner of fury. I took my B1100 into the shop for some updates and tires and such. He asked me how I like the Optimizer, I told him it seemed to do the job, he then told me that that was interesting as the way I had it hooked up, the computer wouldn't be effected by it! :shocked: Anyway a couple months went buy and Pete kept beating his
pud, whoops, I mean drum. I finally came to the conclusion that, he likely has forgotten more about the subject, and most things Guzzi, that I will ever know, so I pulled the little bugger. I was expecting hiccups and farts, I got neither, it ran brilliantly ever since. The moral of this tale, I should have followed Pete's suggestion from the get go.
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Fair point Chad...
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I have an Agostini SS reverse cone on the 1100 db killer in , good quality better performance( somewhat) and i think it looks the part. , 22000 km no problems as of yet ...could use a beetle map this winter i will get on it for sure
(http://thumb.ibb.co/cEeGDa/P1020959.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cEeGDa)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/id1JRv/P1020941.jpg) (http://ibb.co/id1JRv)
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That looks NICE
Was it specifically for the Griso?
Looking under the seat all the space seems to be taken up by the air filter cover
I wonder if anyone has drilled holes up near the front and done away with that rubber spout that takes up all the tool space at the back.
Or done away with the cover altogether like the VII Sport owners do.
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(http://thumb.ibb.co/jUZBUF/Bolt_1_1.jpg) (http://ibb.co/jUZBUF)
One thing I have noticed on my recently acquired Griso 1100 is that it doesn't like the two front engine/frame mounting bolts too tight. They were fairly loose when I bought the bike and when I tightened them up there was more vibration than before. So now they are just nipped up with plenty thread lock to make sure they don't move.
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That looks NICE
Was it specifically for the Griso?
Looking under the seat all the space seems to be taken up by the air filter cover
I wonder if anyone has drilled holes up near the front and done away with that rubber spout that takes up all the tool space at the back.
Or done away with the cover altogether like the VII Sport owners do.
By all means remove the snorkel but I would strongly advise against drilling the airbox lid.
Plenty of pipe options available for Griso.
Pete
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Looking under the seat all the space seems to be taken up by the air filter cover
I wonder if anyone has drilled holes up near the front and done away with that rubber spout that takes up all the tool space at the back.
Or done away with the cover altogether like the VII Sport owners do.
[/quote]
I pulled the snorkel off the air filter cover and it did free up room for a puncture repair kit.
There is a bit more induction noise which can't be heard with ear plugs in. Combined with my own diy map the bike does feel stronger in the mid range. Personally I wouldn't play around with the air box too much, removing the snorkel is more than enough.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/cDveGv/Filer.jpg) (http://ibb.co/cDveGv)
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Removing the snorkel on my Stelvio made a perfect space for a nice Fuze Block installation.[emoji3]
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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More questions
Whats that dirty great hole thru the bike above the footrests, I'm referring to the one with the chrome surround. Could it be used for a maintenance stand?
Is there a centre stand available?
What is the torque setting on the 4 bolts that hold the carc to the swing-arm. I downloaded the workshop manual which has lots of torque settings but I can't figure out which one I'm referring to. And oh, recommended grease to use when I get it apart.
Thanks in advance
Roy
I'm in Love
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Hey Roy, Congrats on the new bike!
I will be following your threads very closely, and look forward to hearing your impressions and opinons of the various aspects of the 2 Valve Griso.
I have been lusting after different big modern road going guzzis, but none of them have hit all the right buttons for me,,,
I'm just putting the finishing touches on a bunch of work on my CX100,,, had it out for a couple of short test rides,,, I love the bike,,, but I'm getting used to the more powerful engine and BRAKES on my CalVin,,, I can tell I will miss them both on the CX100.
I've been reading how highly regarded the Griso is, in the world of big, back road bikes,,, Pete's opinion has always been extremely high of the model,,, sounds like it may be the epitome of 2 valve Guzzi design,,, that interests me greatly, but frankly the dashes have always scared me off.
I am very confident, that if anyone on this earth, can come up with a permanent cure, fix or prevention plan for the Griso dash,,, you are the man. I'm glad to see you take the plunge and get into a Griso,,, they sound like an awesome ride,,, I can see one in my future if the stars align just right.
My ongoing search for a 2 valve Griso with a nice pipe,,, has just intensified greatly,,, armed with the reassuring confidence that you are in the game,,lol.
Ride safe & take care
Kelly
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That looks NICE
Was it specifically for the Griso?
AF1 is the vendor... for the Agostini can.... it shows as a Griso part but i would think it could be universal.
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The muffler is the Ago conical. S'not a bad pipe. As always, it will run better with the dB killer in than out although that isn't as critical with the 2V.
Pete
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Hey Roy, Congrats on the new bike!
Kelly
Thanks a lot, so far I love it.
One thing I did notice it seems to snatch at low speed in first, I expect that's something I will have to get used to.
It's not raining here at the moment so I haven't attacked the dash yet but I intend to.
Actually Huzo is the expert on those, I think I will try to seal it off and let it breathe through somewhere dry like the headlight bucket.
Conformal coating on the circuit board of course.
I know I should love the more modern 4 valve engines but the thought of that little roller whizzing around the cam would be too much let alone the additional 2k to buy one.
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With the snottiness at low speed? First take as much slack as possible out of the throttle cables, you want bar minimum free play so that the engine doesn't race when you turn the bars to full lock. Then tune it properly. A host of issues are simply down to poor tuning. Thirdly check the silent block bushing in the reaction arm. Early ones were too forgiving leading to a lot of 'Clonk' when a gear was engaged or the clutch released at a standstill.
Bleed the brakes and clutch, clutch especially. For some reason the CARC bikes are murder on clutch fluid.
Pete
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For some reason the CARC bikes are murder on clutch fluid.
Pete
I can attest to that. I have never owned a bike where the clutch fluid went bad faster than the brake fluid - till my Norge. I'm gonna change the clutch fluid again in the next week or two, making three changes since new. I'll be changing the brake fluid too - for the first time ever.
Now, let's see if I can remember how to make sure that ABS unit pumps the new fluid through properly!
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Whats that dirty great hole thru the bike above the footrests, I'm referring to the one with the chrome surround. Could it be used for a maintenance stand?
It can be. Check out Street's clever lifting bar.
https://www.grisoghetto.com/t2329-lifting-bar-for-1200-griso
Is there a centre stand available?
There's no factory centre stand like the Stelvio has. There's a factory service stand, which seems to be just adequate. Becker-Technik make a great stand.
http://shop.becker-technik.de/en/37-lifter-for-moto-guzzi
What is the torque setting on the 4 bolts that hold the carc to the swing-arm. I downloaded the workshop manual which has lots of torque settings but I can't figure out which one I'm referring to.
50Nm I believe.
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There's no factory centre stand like the Stelvio has. There's a factory service stand, which seems to be just adequate. Becker-Technik make a great stand.
http://shop.becker-technik.de/en/37-lifter-for-moto-guzzi
Unfortunately, those bowsers won't even ship to the US.
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Unfortunately, those bowsers won't even ship to the US.
Really? Missed opportunity there.
(http://i35.servimg.com/u/f35/18/91/78/64/image17.png)
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Roy could knock one of those up in ten minutes
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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For maintenance I use a cheap and cheerful scissor jack under the sump.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-LIFT-MOTORBIKE-MINI-SCISSOR-JACK-MOTORCYCLE-STAND-500Kg-NEW-UK-/253135704637?hash=item3af010523d:g:CBEAAOSwj9lZrmeU
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For maintenance I use a cheap and cheerful scissor jack under the sump.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCLE-LIFT-MOTORBIKE-MINI-SCISSOR-JACK-MOTORCYCLE-STAND-500Kg-NEW-UK-/253135704637?hash=item3af010523d:g:CBEAAOSwj9lZrmeU
It's only a matter of time and it'll go arse up using that. The sump's not flat enough underneath..
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It's only a matter of time and it'll go arse up using that. The sump's not flat enough underneath..
I always use the belt and braces method and have a ratchet strap over a beam in the garage securing the handlebars.
I can't say the bike is unsafe on the jack without the strap though.
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I always use the belt and braces method and have a ratchet strap over a beam in the garage securing the handlebars.
I can't say the bike is unsafe on the jack without the strap though.
Ok mate. Sounds like you've got it covered..
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Thanks for the info gentlemen I will get onto it, I have a hydraulic motorcycle jack Should be able to bolt something onto that.
Its hard to see how the Becker stand works, a picture of a bike on it would help.
I guess I have to take the side plates off to get the swing arm out I should be able to see better then.
Will check out the throttle linkage and the fluids, sheesh, this bike was supposed to be less maintenance
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Its hard to see how the Becker stand works, a picture of a bike on it would help.
(http://thumb.ibb.co/mYmJEQ/griso_lifter_1.jpg) (http://ibb.co/mYmJEQ)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/ghgUM5/griso_lifter_2.jpg) (http://ibb.co/ghgUM5)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/iOpc8k/griso_lifter_3.jpg) (http://ibb.co/iOpc8k)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gUgPok/griso_lifter_4.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gUgPok)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/efn8EQ/griso_lifter_5.jpg) (http://ibb.co/efn8EQ)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/fdjzM5/griso_lifter_6.jpg) (http://ibb.co/fdjzM5)
(http://thumb.ibb.co/gYY4ok/griso_lifter_7.jpg) (http://ibb.co/gYY4ok)
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I spent most of the day pulling bits off, I must say the CARC swing arms are a breeze after doing a VII, as Pete told me, very little grease but no damage yet.
Sent from my shoe phone!
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Clancy, is that the Becker stand, is it bolted to the bike? For some reason I thought it was just a shop stand.
Thanks for posting.
Sent from my shoe phone!
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Don't forget the linkage bearings, they're even more vulnerable.
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Here's mine.
The two halves can be spread or split apart. They are then nipped by wing nuts at each end.
(https://i11.servimg.com/u/f11/18/91/78/64/img_1419.jpg)
The pivoting ends slip over the two front lower screws on the side plate. I replaced the tapered head screws on the plate with screws that I had machined down to fit all the way into the stand.
(https://i11.servimg.com/u/f11/18/91/78/64/img_1420.jpg)
Of course, I can't currently use it 'cause I don't have side plates. I need to engineer some sort of adapter.
You can actually buy these from Stein-Dinse, who do ship to the US.
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Mgcycle.com carries the Becker stand. The Becker web site has had a good video showing the use of the stand with a Griso.
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Clancy, is that the Becker stand
I got them from the Becker site the link in this thread took me to.
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...The pivoting ends slip over the two front lower screws on the side plate. I replaced the tapered head screws on the plate with screws that I had machined down to fit all the way into the stand.
I just use mine w/ the original side plate screw heads. It's true the stand's sockets don't fully enclose the screw heads, but the stand works very well that way, as designed. Completely satisfied with it.
Moto
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I was peering at the pictures on my phone, now I see its just a shop stand, not that useful if you have to take the swingers out with no side plates.
I ended up lifting it on my motorcycle jack, it was ok but not the safest.
The hole through the centre is almost the size for 1/2" conduit or water pipe, 30 seconds with a rat-tail file, it would be a no brainer if you had some way of hoisting to the rafters.
I will make something with a couple of wood blocks next time.
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I was peering at the pictures on my phone, now I see its just a shop stand, not that useful if you have to take the swingers out with no side plates.
I ended up lifting it on my motorcycle jack, it was ok but not the safest.
The hole through the centre is almost the size for 1/2" conduit or water pipe, 30 seconds with a rat-tail file, it would be a no brainer if you had some way of hoisting to the rafters.
I will make something with a couple of wood blocks next time.
Could you make up a stand to pivot on that half inch pipe rather than existing bolts ?
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Re grease in the rear end bearings
Someone pointed out to me the factory don't put any grease there at all, it's just the stuff the bearings are shipped with.
Sure enough its that thin translucent green stuff.
Bastards
Is there any shock drive in the transmission of a Griso?
Nothing like the rubber wedges VIIs had, is that what the strange looking shaft does?
No nipples to grease the cross's, I guess they will be throw away in 10 years.
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Re grease in the rear end bearings
Someone pointed out to me the factory don't put any grease there at all, it's just the stuff the bearings are shipped with.
Sure enough its that thin translucent green stuff.
Bastards
Is there any shock drive in the transmission of a Griso?
Nothing like the rubber wedges VIIs had, is that what the strange looking shaft does?
No nipples to grease the cross's, I guess they will be throw away in 10 years.
They didn't want to get their hands all dirty and greasy :-)
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Hardy Spicer make greaseable Hookes couplings that are the right size. I had the number hanging around I'll see if I can find it.
On the 2V CARC bikes there is a face cam shock absorber on the input shaft of the gearbox to compliment the bonded two part shaft which acts as a shock absorber. The 8V gearboxes do not, dunno why? Cost I'd expect. The face cam returned with the advent of the 1400's.
Pete