Wildguzzi.com
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: jknight611 on October 15, 2017, 10:03:07 AM
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Hi all, I haven’t had good luck with the Dels for carburetors and have been offered a set of new 40mm Keihin CV carbs. Anyone ever do this conversation? They are from a HD and have accerator pumps. They are flange mount so I could fab up an adapter, throttle cables would be relatively easy and the air filter... well I don’t have the original airbox anyway.
Thoughts or suggestions please
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what is your issue with the dellortos?
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what is your issue with the dellortos?
I'll take a wild stab in the dark here, they be crap!
I did the FCR thing, they are defiantly CV Keihin's? I thought HD's had Mukuni's although CV's with an accelerator pump? this seems a bit odd to me. Personally the Guzzi two valver is such a pedestrian lump CV's wouldn't really work IMO. I've heard mixed reviews on people who have gone the Mukuni route can be a little tricky to get right although the same could be said about the delortos.
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On the carbs I have I have had problems getting the pumps to squirt reliably. I took the bike to Chuck House Motorsports in New Orleans for their assistance and they �cleaned� the carbs in something that caused major discoloration and corrosion. Ran worst after they fixed it. Not recommended......
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Agreed, in my reasonably humble opinion the Dels are crummy carbs when new, 20 years, 65,000 miles and the cleaning in a undisclosed stuff at a shop haven’t been kind to them.
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hmm, mine seem to be working fine
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Probably need to pop for a new set, mine worked ok for the first 60,000 miles. Bike was down for a year or so while I did paint and powdercoat, not been working tooooo good since... and the “professional” cleaning was the final straw.
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Probably need to pop for a new set, mine worked ok for the first 60,000 miles. Bike was down for a year or so while I did paint and powdercoat, not been working tooooo good since... and the �professional� cleaning was the final straw.
If you are going to spend money I really suggest you upgrade to something better. FCR's were fitted to a lot of dirt bikes before they all went injected so its likely with a little research you'll be able to pick up a couple from a breakers.
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Round slide Dellortos were the best carbs available when introduced and run well on the liter bikes of that era, tuned to make let's say 60 HP. When you tune the same engine to make about 80 HP, as with the 1100 Sport and its Crower designed cam, you start running into various kinds of trouble.
Re CV carbs on an 1100 Sport, one guy in the SF Bay area installed 40-mm Bings from a BMW and they apparently carbureted well, but reduced power output slightly.
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Hi all, I haven�t had good luck with the Dels for carburetors and have been offered a set of new 40mm Keihin CV carbs. Anyone ever do this conversation? They are from a HD and have accerator pumps. They are flange mount so I could fab up an adapter, throttle cables would be relatively easy and the air filter... well I don�t have the original airbox anyway.
Thoughts or suggestions please
Talk to rocker59, I believe he swapped out the carbs on his Sport.
Dean
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Yep, following Rocker’s lead. Started pricing Keihin FCR 41s. This has been a area that I want to improve upon, looks like a $1200 expenditure will fix ‘er up.
Thanks guys
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Power barn is where I bought my FCR kit. My bike fired right up. Sudco is about $200.00 more expensive.
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looking to help the lean off idle and flat midrange? jetting suggestions in guzziology, and a digiplex from a strada worked on my 95
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I post this jetting recipe about once a year. You can fix the terrible stock PHM 40 jetting for $50 in jets. Atomizer and needle combo is most important for 1/16to 1/2 open throttle. adjust mains and needle position to suit.
You dont need to spend $500+ for a carb adaptation. And CV carbs would be a step backwards anyway.
you want:
K4 needle, bottom clip
128 mains
68 idle
50/3 slide
265 atomizers
http://www.guzzipower.com/lemansjetting-ed.html
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I post this jetting recipe about once a year. You can fix the terrible stock PHM 40 jetting for $50 in jets. Atomizer and needle combo is most important for 1/16to 1/2 open throttle. adjust mains and needle position to suit.
You dont need to spend $500+ for a carb adaptation. And CV carbs would be a step backwards anyway.
you want:
K4 needle, bottom clip
128 mains
68 idle
50/3 slide
265 atomizers
http://www.guzzipower.com/lemansjetting-ed.html
:1: THIS.
As others before me observed, the Euro Jetting was subject to emissions restrictions to some degree, evidenced by the appearance of 2 digit needle numbers.
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I post this jetting recipe about once a year. You can fix the terrible stock PHM 40 jetting for $50 in jets. Atomizer and needle combo is most important for 1/16to 1/2 open throttle. adjust mains and needle position to suit.
You dont need to spend $500+ for a carb adaptation. And CV carbs would be a step backwards anyway.
you want:
K4 needle, bottom clip
128 mains
68 idle
50/3 slide
265 atomizers
http://www.guzzipower.com/lemansjetting-ed.html
That quite a bit different than my set up, but I am running aftermarket mufflers and crossover
k-19 needle
#60 slides
268? atomizer
from memory, mains are bigger, idles smaller. wrote them down someplace, can't remember where though :undecided:
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Thanks for the jetting recipes, I have never seen my accelerator pumps pump. How much should they squirt? I can remove the slide and move the pump ramp with my finger with a bare drip of fuel comes out of the nozzle.
Many thanks
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Thanks for the jetting recipes, I have never seen my accelerator pumps pump. How much should they squirt? I can remove the slide and move the pump ramp with my finger with a bare drip of fuel comes out of the nozzle.
Many thanks
sounds like you need to give them a good cleaning. make sure the pump diaphragm looks ok too
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Sounds like shoddy workmanship to me. Hope you didn't pay them for the carb 'help'!
Carbs are actually pretty easy - they're just plumbing. Make sure the passages are clear, jets are clear, good o-ring seals - and of course, get the jetting right. If you spring for new carbs you'll have to do that anyway.
The corrosion/blackness can be cleaned up. Get some Eagle One mag wheel cleaner (not the one for clear coated wheels - but the real heavy duty stuff), spray it on, brush for a little bit, rinse off. Wear gloves and don't breathe the stuff! Or dip them in a can of carb cleaner - about $25 these days.
I took Ed's jetting advice, but raised the needles a notch - now it runs great and gets 45 to 48 mpg regularly. Not an 1100, it's an 87 LM1000, but the same carbs.
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:thumb:
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Miscellaneous-bike-photos/i-883NJ5B/0/b679ce61/M/20141129_102746%20%281%29-M.jpg)
(https://photos.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Miscellaneous-bike-photos/i-TZfdDdc/0/2a6c9872/M/20141110_194740-M.jpg)
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You could also have the accel pumps mismatched on output. See is they squirt the same amount. I had my LeMans IV SE pumping about 12' on the right carb and 3' on the left. This was the setting from the factory. :shocked: I found it totally by accident.
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Squirt yourself in the eye,Tom? :smiley:
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Not this bike. The 1000S this past weekend. :grin: